I'm overwhelmed. Questions about Reservoir-/Nutrient-Management and how Plants take up Nutrients.

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
you can't
unless you have a laboratory nearby to analyse your nute solution

change your res out once a week or 10 days
That's not exactly true. You can get ion specific ppm meters. Here's a few examples:
 

Somatek

Well-Known Member
most of the guys I know that grow commercial do it in soil or Promix. Just my experience but I'm sure plenty do hydro.
Using promix and water soluble ferts is still hydro, just a low tech/cheap/forgiving system to run which is why it's popular with commercial growers.

Soilless peat/coco based mediums act as buffers to keep the root zone stable in an ideal range, pure water cultures like DWC/NFT/flood and drain offer more control/higher growth rates but also require more balancing as things can go sideways quickly with the buffer provided by a soilless medium.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
That's not exactly true. You can get ion specific ppm meters. Here's a few examples:
That's pretty sweet. It would cost a small fortune to run a complete analysis, but it wouldn't be a bad investment if you had a commercial operation.
 
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pegboy

Well-Known Member
Yep your over thinking it for sure. Its a weed it will grow. One thing I tell everyone new to hydro is always start nutes on the low side. Its much easier to detect deficiencies then to figure out toxicities or nute lockout all together. Second rule is you must change res water regularly. Thats how you know theres always available nutrients to the plant no matter which one/ones. If you start playing the "add specific nutes one at a time" you're going to fail its way too much to try and figure out. Just my opinion but this is what works for me very well.
 

RookieMuffin

Well-Known Member
That's not exactly true. You can get ion specific ppm meters. Here's a few examples:
Cool didn't know that... One day we'll have 70 meters sticking daily into our reservoirs and calibrating them daily LOL

Yep your over thinking it for sure. Its a weed it will grow. One thing I tell everyone new to hydro is always start nutes on the low side. Its much easier to detect deficiencies then to figure out toxicities or nute lockout all together. Second rule is you must change res water regularly. Thats how you know theres always available nutrients to the plant no matter which one/ones. If you start playing the "add specific nutes one at a time" you're going to fail its way too much to try and figure out. Just my opinion but this is what works for me very well.
Thanks that's a good advice! I've started on the higher side and things went bad really fast... The EC climbed very high very fast to about 2.2 EC for a 10 days old plant... Damn since then she isn't growing at all... But the last days she makes a comeback and is growing again. Slow but it's growing... She stopped at 10 days so grow is always slower the smaller the plant so I'll give her time and check her size daily and she is growing in the last 2-3 days.
 

RookieMuffin

Well-Known Member
The last days my EC stayed pretty stable. Then I've increased the light intensity... Now my EC has raised so I lowered it.

Looks like EC should be lowered when light is increased. Theres some websites on the net who say that too...

Do you guys observe this behavior too? When increasing light intensity the EC has to be lower and when light intensity is lower the EC can be higher?

And what do you think of increasing light intensity bit by bit at all? Years ago when people had no dimmer on their light they used full 400W HPS on their vegging seedlings from day 1... So why increasing at all? Could just start high right away with a low EC feeding so it stays stable... What do you think about that?
 
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