India Grower's Thread

braddaheee

Active Member
If it didn't rain too heavily and the buds aren't too drenched, then I'd think it'd be alrite with a good drying. If the forecast is showing good sun the next couple days, then I'd proly pull em down after that. I've honestly only had 2 harvests of my own, and they were back in 07-08. I can't even remember exactly what I did lol so I won't be of big help in this area.. I have to read up again on drying, curing.. I used a well ventilated dark room, brown paper bags, jars, but cant remember the exact process.. Good luck with that!

Here's a few shots of my Ladies. Only 2 out of 5 are looking good..

The good: Big girl and the young one in styrofoam cup..
View attachment 2538075 View attachment 2538076 View attachment 2538077 View attachment 2538078

The Meh: Small, weaker ones in flower that couldn't handle the tea. Fan leaves got fucked, so I cut em off..
View attachment 2538085 View attachment 2538086
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
If it didn't rain too heavily and the buds aren't too drenched, then I'd think it'd be alrite with a good drying. If the forecast is showing good sun the next couple days, then I'd proly pull em down after that. I've honestly only had only 2 harvests of my own, and they were back in 07-08. I can't even remember exactly what I did lol so I won't be of big help in this area.. I have to do read up again on drying, curing.. I used a well ventilated dark room, brown paper bags, jars, but cant remember the exact process.. Good luck with that!

Here's a few shots of my Ladies. Only 2 are looking good, out of 5..

Big girl and the young one in styrofoam cup..
View attachment 2538075 View attachment 2538076 View attachment 2538077 View attachment 2538078

The small, weaker ones in flower that couldn't handle the tea. Fan leaves got fucked, so I cut em off..
View attachment 2538085 View attachment 2538086
Pics ain't working.
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
El chupa, well said man, its organics all the way! You've been dearly missed on this page.
Now guys (and Blackhawk ;)), I'm in a bit of a pickle here and need some help. My plant is just about ready for harvest, infact I was going to harvest it today but out of nowhere, it freaking rained last night and my plant got wet. I'm scared shitless for bud rot. Any suggestions as to how I might be able to get the buds dry safely and quickly and harvest them thereafter??
Also, what techniques do you people use for dying and curing?


The final stage of cannabis growing - from cutting and trimming your branches to drying and curing your buds - determines the quality of the pot you produce. These easy to follow harvesting instructions will help lock in flavor and potency for the best smoke you've ever grown.


CUTTING


Properly processing cannabis at harvest is a craft that must be mastered in order to enhance and preserve the psychoactive properties, taste and appearance of the finished product. Many talented growers neglect to implement some of the following techniques, resulting in buds that fail to reach their maximum potential.


There are two basic methods used by growers to harvest their cannabis: cola harvesting (cutting the buds from the branches individually) and harvesting entire plant (cutting it off at the main stalk near the bottom). The majority of growers find individual cola harvesting to be superior, for several reasons.


Some cannabis strains exhibit varying finishing times on the same plant. For example, the top colas may ripen while lower branches are still developing. Tops can be removed to expose the lower branches to light, thus allowing the lower buds to ripen further.


Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you've made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time.


TRIMMING


For the highest-quality results, it's best to trim all excess leaves from the colas/buds upon harvest, while the foliage is still rigid and fully hydrated. It's very important to remove as many leaves protruding from the bud as possible. These leaves still contain chlorophyll, which will adversely affect the taste of your finished product.


Trimming is a tedious job and requires a great deal of patience, self discipline and the proper supplies. It's important to have a good pair of scissors. It's also nice to have a bowl or basket nearby for the shade leaves and a separate container for the sugar leaves (I like to separate them because I later use the sugar leaves for hash and butter making). A table, comfortable chairs and good lighting are also important for the trimming process. Try to sit up straight, set goals and take breaks; trimming a full crop can mean several days' worth of work, even for the experienced trimmer.


DRYING


The drying process precedes the final harvesting stage of curing. Drying is simply the act of removing the excess water from the cannabis. Leave the buds on the stems and hang each individual branch on a string or hanger of some sort. It's best to dry the buds in a place that has indirect lighting and adequate air circulation.


A fan is good to have in the room, but don't point it directly at the hanging buds. Allow the buds to dry until they're crisp on the outside and the stems are still pliable. Because the stems contains so much residual moisture, it's best at this time to remove the buds and place them in a large bowl or on a screen tray. Hanging and drying time will vary due to climate and humidity.


When buds dry slowly, it makes for a smoother cure. If buds are dried too quickly, a harsher smoke could result. With slowly dried buds, the humidity remains closer to the humidity inside the stomata. If cannabis is dried to rapidly, the "green" taste will remain in the final product.


Drying times are usually from five to ten days; it varies according to the temperature and type of heat in your home, as well as the ambient humidity, airflow and the density of your buds.


CURING


Cannabis continues to cure after it's harvested, while it's drying and even after it's put in a jar. Just like a fine wine or gourmet coffee beans, marijuana needs to be cured to achieve the rich, smooth, robust taste that lingers on your palate and in your brain. During the curing period, the cannabinoid, and the terpenes will isomerize to create new polyterpenes.


Just as with any other fruit, when cannabis is harvested, the fruit or bud isn't dead; it continues to metabolize. Pick a tomato from your garden while it's still partially green and set it on a windowsill; it'll continue to ripen for days. The same is true of a fresh banana. As the banana ages, the peel will turn a darker yellow, and the fruit inside will become softer and have a sweeter flavor. The more robust flavors and tantalizing fragrances of cannabis begin to appear as the chlorophyll and other pigments break down.


When the small stems that remain under the buds are dry enough to snap, and the buds themselves are dry enough to smoke, it's time to begin the final curing process. Make sure your cannabis is completely dry before putting it in a sealed jar or container. Sealing wet cannabis in a jar or container will result in mold, rendering the weed unsafe to smoke.


Use glass canning jars (i.e., Mason, Ball or Kerr) to cure and store your finished product. Freezer bags can also be used for storing cannabis, but glass is always preferred. Don't store your cannabis in sandwich bags or anything made of a similar plastic; the buds will become too dry and lose potency.


It's important to open the jars occasionally to let in oxygen needed for the curing process, as well as to allow gases built up from the curing process to escape. During the first three days of curing, I open the jars once a day. After that, open your jars twice a week for two weeks, then once more after the first month. At this point, the curing process is basically complete, but the buds will continue to mature and acquire more delicate flavors with time if stored properly.


Store your jarred, cured cannabis in a cool, dark place to help slow the breakdown of the cannabinoids. Although cannabis needs oxygen through the metabolizing/curing stage, at this point oxygen will have an adverse effect on the already-cured cannabis, since it causes the breakdown of THC into CBN.


The implementation of the simple steps listed above will make your dank a legend among your friends. Imagine their surprise when you break out some buds from a three-year-old harvest and they smoke and taste better than ever. There's no limit to the superb qualities of aged cannabis when it's properly dried, well cured and suitably stored.




Source: http://hightimes.com/grow/mzjill/6318
After the Harvest
by MzJill
Fri, Mar 26, 2010 3:52 pm


It's also been stated that this was in the November 2006 issue of High Times.









"Originally Posted by nugglord_420
Yup, I didn't write it. Got it from High Times but it's crucial information that all growers should know. "
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
your soil looks very solid? did you add anything to make it airy?

anyways, check out my pics i just uploaded on my thread, my girls are on day 16 today :)
 

braddaheee

Active Member
Yeah ur plants look good! My soil is a bit damp at the moment, but you rite.. they are a lil more on the solid side compared to what I've used abroad. I could have used more perlite and drilled more n bigger holes in the pots. This batch is pretty much trial n error since the stuff I'm using is quite new to me. I now have a better idea of what to do for my next run. In the States it was pretty much FFOF + Perlite + FF ferts, boosters, Superthrive n BOOM! You got danks lol simple as that. Here I've had to hunt more for stuff and get more down n dirty figuring out the proportions of various mediums, etc in hopes for the right consistency and even getting nutrition from stuff at home n all that.. Hope I can get some beasts next grow!
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
i dunno i kind of enjoy the hunting, but i can understand a lot of people who'd prefer to have the
game served in a bottle, just easier and a good solution if you don't have the time or patience.
your plants look like they're suffering from the same thing a lot of mine used to suffer from
early on - smallness. lol you might want to check if the soil is too compact, also if there's too
much organic matter it'll cake when it's dry...too much nutrients will prevent the plant from
growing large roots and thereby inhibit mycorrhizal growth as the mycorrhizae aren't required
to pull nutrients out of the soil and convert them to a useable form. roots may grow long, and
the visible root mass might be decent, but there's a lot of root that's really hard to see...thin
strands that exponentially increase root surface area...when the roots stay small and nutrients
are readily available and the plant is receiving enough light at its current distance from the
light source, the plant really has no reason to grow big, it goes against the entire evolutionary
concept of size being an advantage. basically, if you're getting everything you need, in abundance,
why change the way things are going? the plant will put more energy into non thc/bud production
plant activities. believe it or not, balancing the nutrient availability in the soil such that it's not
scarce but not readily available is what triggers maximum plant growth. roots expand to find nutrients,
mycorrhizae become active and form a symbiotic relationship with the roots, etc. roots get bigger
and you get a bigger plant. now the plant is getting enough light and the roots are large, mycorrhizae
are densely spread all over the roots, why should the plant grow bigger? because the large plant is
utilizing more nutrients than a small one would and as a result, the roots grow. and then as a result,
the plant grows. rambling shortened, don't overdo the organics. give the plant a long enough break
between watering. the roots stretch out to find more water when the medium is less dry than ideal.
if you're growing organic, and you're making the soil, you have to play nature's role, unless you play
it close enough to the real deal the plant's not gonna be close enough to the real deal

ElChupacabra


ps : mate in the first post your plant looks overwatered...
i'm not good at distinguishing between over and under watered in pictures alone...need to feel the
leaves...
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
also if it's an indian landrace rain isn't an issue unless it's more than a couple days...if it's not indian, or equatorial, careful, the bud will be comparitively soft and squishy like a deflated ball compared to a normal one at the point of infection. if you see it and can confirm, cut the plant. if you can't confirm wait a day, if it's significantly worse after just one day then cut it for sure.
 

Badman2009

Member
Thanks for the help guys. Specially the part which said that is possible to harvest one cola at a time coz the top colas weren't fully ripe but the middle ones were and I was really confused. It got really sunny and warm later and that dried the plant up nicely.
Also, anyone ever used bajaj organic shakti fertilizer? I've grown plants from start to finish with that shit and some bone meal during flowering. That could help improve the texture of your soil braddaheee. Just thought I'd share.
 

kingfisher021

Well-Known Member
Bajaj organic fertilizer is the bajaj wormicompost with essential micronutrients? If thats what you are talking about, then I am also using it mixed with cocopeat and soil in my current grow - its worked well for me but i am also using advance nutes, the plants started showing problems before i was using the nutes, but the results are good with the two things combined.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
lucky you. If I plant outdoors in April. When can I harvest?
has a lot to do with the strain man...indian plant means ideally december but that's unlikely, probably in end of feb or middle of march. i harvested that one early,in the middle of jan, as i was rapidly losing patience. probably should have left it but she turned out amazing. lovely fucking smoke with a really nice flavour to it. compared to high quality indian scores, i say she rapes them all, hard. taste is 20x better (go organic) and i yielded a shitload dry...to be honest i don't have a scale to weigh it as my current one isn't big enough to weigh and read the thing for such a large yield at the same time...with all the branches cut and manicured it is probably between 500 and 550 grams. maybe even 450-550, that's the maximum and minimum ball park, unrespectively. with buds as light and airy as those, you'd be surprised how much space it took up...this was a guerilla grow, i did not take pictures of the plant as i simply got too stoned before going and left it at home every fucking time to be honest. you'd be surprised how i forget things when i get stoned...
 

Badman2009

Member
Bajaj organic fertilizer is the bajaj wormicompost with essential micronutrients? If thats what you are talking about, then I am also using it mixed with cocopeat and soil in my current grow - its worked well for me but i am also using advance nutes, the plants started showing problems before i was using the nutes, but the results are good with the two things combined.
Micro and macro both. Good npk profile. I see you are growing imported stains. I've only grown landraces till now so maybe thats why I could manage with just the organic shakti! Even I plan on using organic shakti mixed with cocopeat next time. And maybe I'll get GG nutes if I get imported seeds.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
Micro and macro both. Good npk profile. I see you are growing imported stains. I've only grown landraces till now so maybe thats why I could manage with just the organic shakti! Even I plan on using organic shakti mixed with cocopeat next time. And maybe I'll get GG nutes if I get imported seeds.
surprisingly enough, the indian landraces i've grown are so much more resistant to a lower than ideal or higher than ideal concentration of nutrients than the imported seeds. Could be just because every other aspect of the plant is completely normal and the plant is just in general growing in it's normal environment, while with imported seeds, the weather, humidity, (new?) pests, and on top of that, soil that's got too much or too little nutes? as a combination i'm guessing that's too hard to handle...

best vibes

ElChupa
 

Badman2009

Member
True that. You've grown mandala seeds and they've got their genetics from Indian landraces so technically they should be a little more tolerant to the Indian ways of growing. Is it so? Coz I was planning on getting mandala seeds thinking they would be more forgiving to my mistakes as a grower.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
i feel it has more to do with mandala's methods of choosing plants out of a large cultivation more than the origin. most strains have some percentage of indian origin, varying from hardly anything (something like NL#5) to being very prominent (original white widow/MNS black widow). while most cultivators choose their females to carry forward purely based on things like yield and resin content, mandala chooses things like pest resistance, hardiness, etc. in addition to yield and resin content, and specifically, heat resistance. i'm sure mandala chooses the males that have an effect whereby the flowering time is shortened and yield is increased, unlike someone like subcool who chooses his males based on the last to flower and floral structure/density. they're just two different motivations for reaching a similar end product. a friend tells me that subcool's strains respond poorly to the indian climate and advises me to not make the headlong investment in them.

if you're interested in an indica, i would suggest Jackberry from sannie's...germ rate is spectactular and it's really hardy...but yet to see how she handles the indian outdoors...
if you want a mandala strain i advise you to go to the mandala website and purchase their mango zamal, it's a strain that's just MEANT for growing in an indian climate...
i'm fucking DYING to try it but i have more than enough seeds on my hands, fortunately or unfortunately. : )
 

Badman2009

Member
i feel it has more to do with mandala's methods of choosing plants out of a large cultivation more than the origin. most strains have some percentage of indian origin, varying from hardly anything (something like NL#5) to being very prominent (original white widow/MNS black widow). while most cultivators choose their females to carry forward purely based on things like yield and resin content, mandala chooses things like pest resistance, hardiness, etc. in addition to yield and resin content, and specifically, heat resistance. i'm sure mandala chooses the males that have an effect whereby the flowering time is shortened and yield is increased, unlike someone like subcool who chooses his males based on the last to flower and floral structure/density. they're just two different motivations for reaching a similar end product. a friend tells me that subcool's strains respond poorly to the indian climate and advises me to not make the headlong investment in them.

if you're interested in an indica, i would suggest Jackberry from sannie's...germ rate is spectactular and it's really hardy...but yet to see how she handles the indian outdoors...
if you want a mandala strain i advise you to go to the mandala website and purchase their mango zamal, it's a strain that's just MEANT for growing in an indian climate...
i'm fucking DYING to try it but i have more than enough seeds on my hands, fortunately or unfortunately. : )
I think im more of a sativa person. But then again, as Franco says, just like there are times for whisky and there are times for wine, there's a time for a sativa and there's a time for an indica!
I've never dealt with imported seeds before so i was thinking of getting the safari mix coz they are economical and you get a variety of hybrids too. Since you've grown it, how's the smoke report?
And the mandala site wont let me place an order for the safari mix alone so i'm going to have to order from some place else. I was thinking herbie's. Any suggestions?
Also, i plan on preparing an organic potting mix. I read your recepie but all I got is coco, bajaj organic shakti, vermi compost, bone meal and neem meal. Maybe i can get my hands on some soilrite aswell. Would a mix of the above suffice?
And dude, having all those seeds can no way be an unfortunate thing! I hope you get even more for your breeding endeavours. You might just end up being the first ever breeder in the nation!
 
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