Indoor Plant 8 weeks into flowering most large fan leaves look ill

I have been growing this plant for almost 4 months and it is 8 or 9 weeks into flowering and is showing some signs of nutrient burn or something. Most of the large old fan leaves are curling a little downward or upward and yellow pin prick burns are starting at the leaf margins and working inward. Some leaves are almost completely over taken. The bud seems unaffected thank god. I could really use some opinions on what the problem is. Just last week the leaves werent as bad looking and i am using only distilled water for the last few waterings and was gonna continue using only distilled water until harvest. I am using Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil and i was using fox farm big grow for veg cycle, big bloom and tiger bloom for flowering cycle. I also used fox farm open sesame, beastie blooms, and cha ching at 1/4 the recommended dose per gallon. From the pictures i saw online it appears to be either Ozone damage what ever that is, Or a Magnesium deficiency. If anyone knows if i should do anything to correct this or if i should just wait a week or so for harvest. I have looked at the THC crystals with a pocket microscope and most of the crystals are clear to milky white none seem to be amber yet. Seems a little strange this late into flowering. The SOMA Guide says stress can affect the plant and slow it down or maybe its nutrient lock up. Please help. I am posting pictures a few are of the leaf problem and a few are pretty pictures of the plants bud.

Not to worry.

Its perfectly natural for the fan leaves to yellow and curl.

Looks like you got about a week and then flush while the trichomes are milky for a head stone or wait a week or two more when they turn amber for a body stone.

Good job.

Have you reduced your nitrogen at all? I kind of get the nute and light burn vibe especially if it is on the fan leaves. I don't know how to ammend severe magnesium deficiencies except to buy the ammendment from Earth Juice or Down to Earth, etc. They are both organics/natural sources. That is not that bad though but looks like you need more potassium.

I definitely think you should let get of the Grow Big for a few weeks and replace it with the Big Bloom. There is magnesium in the Big Bloom. I think you should boost up the Big Bloom big time like two or three times more and cut out the high nitrogen fertz entirely. I would try to keep N at 2 at the max at the stage you are at. Other than that it really is not as bad as you think. You are going to have great buds.

I stopped feeding nitrogen after the veg cycle except in small amounts from some of my fox farm nutrients, but not from big grow i am onyl using big blooms and tiger bloom and the open sesame, cha ching, and beastie blooms. Next time i grow i dont think im going to use the open sesame, cha ching, beastie blooms. They have crazy high and odd N-P-K like 0-50-20 which seems very high one of the bottles has a little nitrogen. I got the Soma guide which says to use much milder nutrients. Guy at the hydroponics store sold me the fox farm nutrients which seemed like a good idea at the time. So should i just flush and no longer use nutrients since im at 8 or 9 weeks into flowering? If it is nutrient burn i should just use water correct? i dont want to over compensate with more nutrients.

Thanks for saying, "Your going to have great buds" that really makes me relaxed. This is only my 4th or so successful grow and the only one that will be successfully budded as long as i dont accidently mess it up in these last few weeks.

I agree with cruzer101, they're fine. That late into flowering they will start tp lose their fan leaves. Stop ferting and continue flushing your at harvests door.

It looks really good.

Nice work.

ahhh one thing though, I just looked close at those first two pics....you have thrips. Thats not the way normal fan leaves die off. Normal is slowly turning yellow You have thrip damage. You are close enough to harvest that it probably won't affect your yield much. But your gonna have to clean good after wards to prevent reinfestation. Which incudes sterilizing your soil which contains thrip larvae. I use nematodes in my soil usually and it works fine. This time I started with new untreated organic soil...and I have thrips also. But I have more time before harvest so I'll have to treat them.. If you are only a couple weeks away from harvest you would probably not get them under control before you chop day. So why bother. Wait till they are done and sterilize the area and get new soil or add nematodes.

Its normal its at its end just flush and have a great harvest. All plants die out after they would have seeded. Its an annual not perenial. Yes i cant spell but u know what i mean. And you rplant looks really nice GL with it

Skibumm208 said:

Its normal its at its end just flush and have a great harvest. All plants die out after they would have seeded. Its an annual not perenial. Yes i cant spell but u know what i mean. And you rplant looks really nice GL with it

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U spell better than a lot of people on here, I Kant even tull wat some peeple r tri in 2 sae, u knoh?

ghosty87 said:

I have been growing this plant for almost 4 months and it is 8 or 9 weeks into flowering and is showing some signs of nutrient burn or something. Most of the large old fan leaves are curling a little downward or upward and yellow pin prick burns are starting at the leaf margins and working inward. Some leaves are almost completely over taken. The bud seems unaffected thank god. I could really use some opinions on what the problem is. Just last week the leaves werent as bad looking and i am using only distilled water for the last few waterings and was gonna continue using only distilled water until harvest. I am using Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil and i was using fox farm big grow for veg cycle, big bloom and tiger bloom for flowering cycle. I also used fox farm open sesame, beastie blooms, and cha ching at 1/4 the recommended dose per gallon. From the pictures i saw online it appears to be either Ozone damage what ever that is, Or a Magnesium deficiency. If anyone knows if i should do anything to correct this or if i should just wait a week or so for harvest. I have looked at the THC crystals with a pocket microscope and most of the crystals are clear to milky white none seem to be amber yet. Seems a little strange this late into flowering. The SOMA Guide says stress can affect the plant and slow it down or maybe its nutrient lock up. Please help. I am posting pictures a few are of the leaf problem and a few are pretty pictures of the plants bud.

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yeah that's normal. I've read on here that when the plant goes into flowering it takes the energy from the fan leaves to help feed the buds or something like that.

Even if its thrips so far along your not gonna sprayem with pesticide or anything cause ur gonna smoke it soon. Id do some reading on what to do with thrips if they are in your buds. Do they change the flavor of the smoke?
Most of what i have read is bath them in soapy water and then dryem and smoke. I have noticed that when people get mits or thrips at the end (last2-3weeks) they tend to just leave it be. Do sanitize your grow room tho if you are going to do another grow and get new soil and the such or you will have them again and earlier on where they can do real harm to your plants

Thanks for the input everyone. I have a question regarding the thrips, i actually have a plant that is 2 weeks younger in the same closet as this plant that has the leaf problems. So if there are some thrips on my larger plant will they transfer over to my other plant, Or wouldnt it already be infested as well? My other plant has no yellowing of leaves, but it is atleast 2 weeks younger and the buds are not as developed. Thanks everyone for there input i will be posting more pictures of my plants when they are finished harvesting and i will be posting some pictures about my outdoor plants i think some of them have mold.

yes, if you have any other plants near that one, it/they will have thrips also. There are several different sprays that you can use. I prefer natural predators. They can be applied at any time and have no adverse effects on taste and they are never toxic. I mean ya can have a 1500 strong army of Lady bugs delivered to your door in 2 days for $20. And they'll clean them up pretty quick.Also if you amend your soil with nematodes, you will never have a problem from any pest that has a soil period. Which is most. Nematodes will last in your soil if you re-use it. Cheap insurance.

i dont think it is thirps, could be but looks more like a maganese deficeincy

This isn't rocket science here. All you need to do to CONFIRM thrips is look with a glass. The thrips will be visible. If you start treating exotic deficiencies that don't exist you might as well throw the plant away.. It's not that hard to grow...it's a weed that use to grow unchecked all over the country. All without anyones help.
Deficiencies can happen, but are not the norm.....by far more damage is done overtreating a misdiagnosed deficiency. Anybody that uses PH balanced soil with a basic fertilizer will be able to grow big plants most likely without seeing a deficiency of any kind during the entire life of the plant.Manganese and the like, are TRACE elements. Not much required and is usually supplied in plenty with any basic all around fert.
Thrips are very easy to confirm...Just LOOK!
Option B....guess at something it doesn't have and give it something it doesn't need and fix the problem YOU CREATED later.

20$oz said:

This isn't rocket science here. All you need to do to CONFIRM thrips is look with a glass. The thrips will be visible. If you start treating exotic deficiencies that don't exist you might as well throw the plant away.. It's not that hard to grow...it's a weed that use to grow unchecked all over the country. All without anyones help.
Deficiencies can happen, but are not the norm.....by far more damage is done overtreating a misdiagnosed deficiency. Anybody that uses PH balanced soil with a basic fertilizer will be able to grow big plants most likely without seeing a deficiency of any kind during the entire life of the plant.Manganese and the like, are TRACE elements. Not much required and is usually supplied in plenty with any basic all around fert.
Thrips are very easy to confirm...Just LOOK!
Option B....guess at something it doesn't have and give it something it doesn't need and fix the problem YOU CREATED later.

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he makes some good points...if i were you i would continue flushing til the end...bud look ok right now...no worries if you loose some leaves

Also, 99 percent of "deficiencies" are created by "lock-out" so adding the locked out mineral will not improve the plants health. The lock-out has to be corrected FIRST. Other wise you can very well end up with the opposite problem....toxicity. If you have a problem and you are only guessing at the solution while adding chemicals, you are in essence playing russian roulette with only one empty barrel.
Personally I don't like those odds

if you are guessing everytime you see a deficeincy, you need to do some more research or grow some more plants. Here is a great link for problems with plants
International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!

Thrips
Thrips are really tiny, but can be seen by the naked eye. Some may have wings and some may not. Thrips reproduce rapidly, especially in tight places. That is what makes them hard to get rid of when using pesticides. The suck the sap right out of your plant with there piercing mouths, which makes the leaves look like they turned white. You can tell when you have thrips by taking a look at your leaves, the leaves will look as if there chlorophyll have been ripped right off the plant. Plants that are damaged can’t be healed thus making it harder for the plant to absorb light. SO if left untreated the thrips will kill the plants. Damage also can be seen by the greenish black specks of there poop they leave on leaves. Also the plants will show silver patchs from scar tissue. Depending on the severity at first, thrip damage might look like spider mite damage untill it increases in damage and then thrips case is for sure when you see the greenness replace with big parts of white.


One good way to repel thrips for those growing outside is to use garlic, this is a good way to keep them away before you get them. The color yellow attracts the thrips and should be advised not to have this color around your grow.. If you already have them using neem oil, and or lady bugs can get rid of them. If the infestation is bad then you need to use biological solution like, pyrethrin-like insecticides. Picture 8 shows thrips damage.
Other Products include:
Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum.

Picture 1 is Thrip damage
Picture 2 is Thrip Larvae (Picture Contributed by: Flatt)

KAOSOWNER said:

if you are guessing everytime you see a deficeincy, you need to do some more research or grow some more plants. Here is a great link for problems with plants

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Way to go the extra mile, good info