Inkbird 308s suck donkey balls

oill

Well-Known Member
I have burned through about 3 inkbird 308 remote thermostats to control my heater....

They all ended up being stuck on when they should be off and overheating the room.

Can anyone recommend a better alternative thermostat preferable with night and day settings?
 

Beehive

Well-Known Member
I use a programmer thing that plugs in. You can set a range of temps at times. Made for a heater. Up to 1500watts. Amazon. Tiny temp probe.

Leaf temperature always confirmed with an IR.

Oil heater.
 

Beehive

Well-Known Member
I did the math. To heat the grow room and out side room. 750 watts.

On the oil heater. You crank the thermostat. The other knob has three positions. 1500 watt, 900, 600.

I use number "2". 900. With the controller.

84° grow room temp.
 

Green Refuge

Well-Known Member
Maybe Try 608T I been using it works perfectly fine for heater and humidifier. Got it used like new for $40. I tested it on my small window AC and it worked also. Only problem is you Need to read manual several times to get the hang of it.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Wattage and amperage are two different animals. Listen to Renfro.
Watts (P) = Amps (I) X Volts (E) easy to remember PIE.

So 120 volts @ 10 amps = 1200 watts

If the heater is a 1500 watt model, operating at 120 volts, it would draw 12.5 amps. That would definitely exceed the 10 amp rating of the 308. The 608 has a 15 amp contact rating so a 1500 watt heater would be within spec.
 
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oill

Well-Known Member
Is the heater pulling more amps than the inkbird is rated for? That could melt the relay contacts causing them to stick closed/on.
I guess so yeah... the heater has 2 elements... I usually only run 1 and I switched it to 2.... then the inkbird fried. Might have to try something else
 

Apalchen

Well-Known Member
I just went and bought and oil heater with its own thermostat from Wal Mart. Bit more expensive but no outside controller needed, hopefully.

It's still in the box, won't need it til I flip to flower it stays warm enough with the lights only off 6 hours.
 

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
With an inkbird and oil heater, how much play can you build into the cycles? Can you tell it you want it on at 79 and off at 82? Does it offer that much customizing?
 

oill

Well-Known Member
With an inkbird and oil heater, how much play can you build into the cycles? Can you tell it you want it on at 79 and off at 82? Does it offer that much customizing?
Yeah... you can build in the leeway wither side of the target temp.... I.e. target = 25c, but allow 23 before you turn on. Or turn off at 27 for example... all 3 numbers you can customise
 

oill

Well-Known Member
Is the heater pulling more amps than the inkbird is rated for? That could melt the relay contacts causing them to stick closed/on.
Renfo... how would I use a 306t qnd not blow it up? Is there a way of connecting it to a contactor? Any suggestions?
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
dont forget that a heater with a built in thermostat will sense the temp from where it is, thermostat location is important when trying to control what temp you want things, low down can be a big difference than at canopy temperature.
 

Imcamping86

Well-Known Member
I have the 308 non remote , and it hasn’t given me any issues . You have to set the values with in degrees of each other . You should have a fan or or something to cool so if it does shoot up passed desired temp .or watch how many degrees it goes over by and holds at before dropping and minus that from your current set temp . So this way when it shoots passed it’s actually sitting where you want . But you should have something to cool so they can ping pong each other between heating and cooling .
I love my 308 . That and the humidity one have been game changers for me . It’s been hands free minus dropping and rising temp and humidity for lights on and off cycles . Hopes this helps
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I have the 308 non remote , and it hasn’t given me any issues . You have to set the values with in degrees of each other . You should have a fan or or something to cool so if it does shoot up passed desired temp .or watch how many degrees it goes over by and holds at before dropping and minus that from your current set temp . So this way when it shoots passed it’s actually sitting where you want . But you should have something to cool so they can ping pong each other between heating and cooling .
I love my 308 . That and the humidity one have been game changers for me . It’s been hands free minus dropping and rising temp and humidity for lights on and off cycles . Hopes this helps
You can set the dead band small and it won't heat as much.
 
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