Is it time to transplant into a bigger pot?
- Thread starter fireduck
- Start date
MrFishy
Well-Known Member
You can TP anytime now . . . and try to find/use a non-see-thru planter (there's not a lot of light underground)
From your plants limited size, I'm not sure it's necessary in your case. It's really up to you?
How many days does it take for this plant to NEED water? This is a good way to judge whether TP is in order, IMO.
IE: If the planter dries out too quickly, I'd TP.
From your plants limited size, I'm not sure it's necessary in your case. It's really up to you?
How many days does it take for this plant to NEED water? This is a good way to judge whether TP is in order, IMO.
IE: If the planter dries out too quickly, I'd TP.
fireduck
Active Member
Thanks for replies guys,
See-through was a mistake, i start noticing mold after few days, and wrapped it in aluminum tape but skipped the bottom.
will use dark pots after TP
When they were smaller i used to water every 3 days, now
pots getting lighter by end of 2nd day.
I've heard rule of thumb "1 gallon per each foot of growth", but I topped them, not sure if ratio is still the same.
I guess i'll wait till i need to water every 2 days and then TP
See-through was a mistake, i start noticing mold after few days, and wrapped it in aluminum tape but skipped the bottom.
will use dark pots after TP
When they were smaller i used to water every 3 days, now
pots getting lighter by end of 2nd day.
I've heard rule of thumb "1 gallon per each foot of growth", but I topped them, not sure if ratio is still the same.
I guess i'll wait till i need to water every 2 days and then TP
PBFseedco.
Well-Known Member
In my years of growing ive noticed that a plant will slow growth when they start to get root bound, therefore i always transplant before this happend's so my plant never stops its fast rapid growth. If i were you i'd transplant that thing asap but its up too how big you want the plant top be.
LAX Skunky BwS
Well-Known Member
Brick Top
New Member
I never transplant because I always start my popped beans out right in the largest pot size I will use for that grow. I never use anything smaller than 5-gallons and normally will use 7-gallon pots.
　
Once a plant’s root begin to circle the pot the plant is then under a degree of stress and it will do nothing but increase until repotted into a larger pot. If the rootball has reached a root-bound condition you will need to slightly score it/cut it along the edges and the bottom, in several or more places. If not the roots will want to continue to circle and will not spread out and down anywhere near as fast as they would if the rootball is scored. Each cut root will then push out and spread out and down and that is what you want, as does the plant itself.
　
If you allow your plant’s roots to reach a root-bound condition there are a number of problems that can and likely will follow.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot your plant is in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand choice instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball. If you do not so that the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh deeper soil will be much slower. Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or to high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier.
　
Good luck!
　
　
　
　
　
　
Once a plant’s root begin to circle the pot the plant is then under a degree of stress and it will do nothing but increase until repotted into a larger pot. If the rootball has reached a root-bound condition you will need to slightly score it/cut it along the edges and the bottom, in several or more places. If not the roots will want to continue to circle and will not spread out and down anywhere near as fast as they would if the rootball is scored. Each cut root will then push out and spread out and down and that is what you want, as does the plant itself.
　
If you allow your plant’s roots to reach a root-bound condition there are a number of problems that can and likely will follow.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
- Stunted Growth.
- Stretching.
- Smaller and slower bud production.
- Needs watering too often.
- Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
- Wilting.
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot your plant is in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand choice instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball. If you do not so that the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh deeper soil will be much slower. Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or to high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier.
　
Good luck!
　
　
　
　
　
fireduck
Active Member
Thats a yes to 5 out of 6; veg, no buds.
I transplanted like you advised.
When got the first plant out of the pot it became obvious they were root-bound.
My plants are enjoying new 5gal homes
Attachments
jsteezy1290
Well-Known Member
it should take off now lol
