Jack's Classic /JR PETERS (Don't waste money on anything else)
- Thread starter SheepsBlood
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
LolWhat's wrong with making gypsum?
Not a thing if you're growing in organic soil, but if you're in deep water culture you might have calcium deficiency issues.
icetech
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what i did... i mix the jacks and mag in a jar... and i put the calcium in the bucket.. once both dissolve i put them together.
Even with a tiny amount of epsom?
icetech
Well-Known Member
When i started i didn't know bout the gypsum issue, i used to just dump it all in and mix, never noticed anything bad. but i just do it the way i said above now.. no issues.
xtsho
Well-Known Member
There's an old thread about making DIY calmag. It calls for mixing calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate. It's not an issue if you mix it and use it right away. The issue arises after it sits for awhile and the calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate combine and become calcium sulfate which has an extremely low solubility and is in effect Plaster of Paris/synthetic gypsum. That's why calmag uses magnesium nitrate rather than magnesium sulfate as the 2 nitrates are compatible. It's more complicated than that but I'm not a chemist and although I understand the concepts I'm far from being an expert on the topic. Lets just say I'm currently studying. And boy do I have a lot to learn.
It also depends on the dilution rate. You can mix calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate into a stock solution but not at levels that cause precipitation which vary depending on the salts being added as different salts react differently with each other. So with proper dilution there isn't an issue. The nutrients I use are mixed and kept in a reservoir. They include both calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate but there are no precipitation issues due to the dilution rate of each salt. Which is why people don't get deposits in their nutrient solution. But making a solution of calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate for DIY calmag where the ratio's of the 2 salts are much higher the combination will lead to an accumulation of a white chalky substance called gypsum.
It also depends on the dilution rate. You can mix calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate into a stock solution but not at levels that cause precipitation which vary depending on the salts being added as different salts react differently with each other. So with proper dilution there isn't an issue. The nutrients I use are mixed and kept in a reservoir. They include both calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate but there are no precipitation issues due to the dilution rate of each salt. Which is why people don't get deposits in their nutrient solution. But making a solution of calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate for DIY calmag where the ratio's of the 2 salts are much higher the combination will lead to an accumulation of a white chalky substance called gypsum.
jollyrodger420
Member
You don’t get a 7-15-30 NPK mix doing that. But that’s the same ratio is use for early bloom. Not the same.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Nope, it's not more complicated than that; you nailed it.
The reason why people swear by Cal-mag is because both of the nutrient salts are nitrates- so of course their plants will green up! Lol
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It's for any discussion with chemicals, especially those in a solution.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I guess I don't run a late bloom mix, but it's easy to make one using the same ingredients; just change the ratios.
The point is that you don't need to buy a bunch of different nutes for this n that; you already have what you need if you have those 4 basic nutes.
jollyrodger420
Member
i wonder if using just part a the last couple weeks would be legit? Pretty close NPK values to the Finish
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
And if you feel the need for a late bloom mix, you can just adjust the ratios of the nutrient salts you already have.
Here's why; first, you know what's in the dry nutrient salts and just as importantly, what's NOT in them; fillers, PGRs, preservatives, emulsifiers, etc.
Second, and this is essential info for the noobs; there's only 26 essential nutrients plants need. There's no such thing as a magic sauce with special stuff that makes your plants grow better with Brand A vs Brand B. Getting acquainted with your salts and how to mix them for different stages of the life cycle will explode the mythology that sells millions of dollars of water bottles with sexy labels, thereby SAVING YOU MONEY.
Third, once you have a solid handle on what going into your plants, you can then build on that platform of consistency to dial in the rest of your grow.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
C, O, H, N, P, K, S, Ca, Mg, Fe, Mn, B, Cu, Cl, Zn, Mo, Ni = 17, although the first 3 can be disregarded in nutrition profiles
Si as non-essential beneficial for Cannabis
Other plants may also need Co & Na
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
I'd only feed 2.4 EC in mid-late bloom. I agree that's a bit high.. For me its 1.6 clone/seedling, 1.8 VEG, 2.0 FLOWER > 2.2 Mid-Late Flower.
icetech
Well-Known Member
I rarely go over 1.8... i am paranoid about burning.. but plants seem fine at the lower ec
Quintana
Well-Known Member
I’ve pushed my EC to 2.4 and the result is usually a little bit of burning on the tips of the leaves. Aside from that though, they have really nice and dense bud formation, nice big colas, and they were/are frosty as can be.
Aren't feed charts that burn the shit out of your plants just an industry standard?