Just at end of week 9... ready yet?

oill

Well-Known Member
I hate the question... im not a noob... but still wanted to ask you guys thoughts...

At the end of week 9 and these babies look good.... im thinking of switching to just water tomorrow and then 10 days to crop... what you think?
 

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Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
No, you've still got a fair amount of clear trichs, nice looking plants!!! I'd give it another week or two, but I like all milky with a little amber. Pretty much what you're personal preference is.
 

FirstCavApache64

Well-Known Member
Looking at the leaves I'd say just feed a reduced strength feed if you're set on flushing. There's definitely a deficiency issue and not knowing what you have been feeding and more details it's hard to say why. My best guess is a P deficiency but I'd keep feeding until harvest. Flushing is fine if the plants are healthy but if you're already facing a deficiency it's not going to help. I personally like green healthy leaves up to the chop. As far as when to chop. I'd look more at the overall appearance of the buds and worry less about trichome color. You can always do a partial harvest of the tops and leave the secondary buds a little longer to ripen. That's how I got used to where I want to harvest. I chopped way too early by looking at trichomes in my opinion. Since changing to visual cues like swollen calyxes, buds bending over to the ground and most if not all pistils browning, I've been way happier with my harvest times.
 

oill

Well-Known Member
Looking at the leaves I'd say just feed a reduced strength feed if you're set on flushing. There's definitely a deficiency issue and not knowing what you have been feeding and more details it's hard to say why. My best guess is a P deficiency but I'd keep feeding until harvest. Flushing is fine if the plants are healthy but if you're already facing a deficiency it's not going to help. I personally like green healthy leaves up to the chop. As far as when to chop. I'd look more at the overall appearance of the buds and worry less about trichome color. You can always do a partial harvest of the tops and leave the secondary buds a little longer to ripen. That's how I got used to where I want to harvest. I chopped way too early by looking at trichomes in my opinion. Since changing to visual cues like swollen calyxes, buds bending over to the ground and most if not all pistils browning, I've been way happier with my harvest times.
Heya... yeah I agree.... I had another thread about the issue. We came to the conclusion that it was nutrient lockout due to salt buildup. For the following reasons...

1 it's dtw drip feeding
2 I wasn't sure I was getting run off every day.

The ph coming out was down at 5.4 and ec was 2.8.

The nutrient solution going in was 6.0 and ec 1.8

Generally people were thinking this is most likely lockout. As a result I dropped the ec to 1.6 and a ph of 6.2. It has continued to worsen slowly....
 

FirstCavApache64

Well-Known Member
After reading your other thread I'm inclined to agree with salt buildup in the media causing a deficiency by way of a lockout but I'm 100% a soil grower and since you're running Coco in a DTW system, there are much more experienced Coco growers on here to give you good advice. I hope it clears up or at least stabilizes for you to get them to harvest. There's nothing worse than issues in late flower, it's bad enough worrying about pests, bud rot and PM.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Heya... yeah I agree.... I had another thread about the issue. We came to the conclusion that it was nutrient lockout due to salt buildup. For the following reasons...

1 it's dtw drip feeding
2 I wasn't sure I was getting run off every day.

The ph coming out was down at 5.4 and ec was 2.8.

The nutrient solution going in was 6.0 and ec 1.8

Generally people were thinking this is most likely lockout. As a result I dropped the ec to 1.6 and a ph of 6.2. It has continued to worsen slowly....
I always flush my coco with a low osmolar, .3 ec solution, every 2 weeks then right back to feeding the next day. At this point with two weeks to go I would rinse them out then change nothing and keep doing what you've been doing and not worry about a flush at all because they look hungry. Congrats on getting this far, they are lovely.
 

Missouri Green

Active Member
I always flush my coco with a low osmolar, .3 ec solution, every 2 weeks then right back to feeding the next day. At this point with two weeks to go I would rinse them out then change nothing and keep doing what you've been doing and not worry about a flush at all because they look hungry. Congrats on getting this far, they are lovely.
Heya... yeah I agree.... I had another thread about the issue. We came to the conclusion that it was nutrient lockout due to salt buildup. For the following reasons...

1 it's dtw drip feeding
2 I wasn't sure I was getting run off every day.

The ph coming out was down at 5.4 and ec was 2.8.

The nutrient solution going in was 6.0 and ec 1.8

Generally people were thinking this is most likely lockout. As a result I dropped the ec to 1.6 and a ph of 6.2. It has continued to worsen slowly....
I always hated coco because at some point in any grow I would find my pH or Ec way off and it would take 10's of gallons per plant to set things straight which is why i started using a reseviour under my coco and would recirc the resevour if anything was going off the rails.... adding copious amounts of pH up or down and repeating till things got stable. I'm still using coco but mostly hydroton now in the bloom room... the coco is for young development and a safety sponge so to speak surrounded by hydroton for the final home.... so its like a 6x6x6" cube of coco and perlite in a 5-7 gal growbag filled with hydroton... over a reseviour. works really really great/// F the coco and all the fud that goes with it. also moving to RO was good for me. feed 5-10 times a day and everything stays pretty stable ... if anything goes wrong with pH i shift up the water schedule to be less... always seems to work. . my previous run i was using more coco and probably overwatering it... but the results were still amazing..

i'd say you could chop the plant now if you wish... 10 more days is about perfect... you could add 3 more in total darkness after that... boom. I usually go by 3 weeks past first drying pistils..as earliest harvest, this run i went about 4 weeks past first dry pistils..that's probably better. GL!
 
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oill

Well-Known Member
I always hated coco because at some point in any grow I would find my pH or Ec way off and it would take 10's of gallons per plant to set things straight which is why i started using a reseviour under my coco and would recirc the resevour if anything was going off the rails.... adding copious amounts of pH up or down and repeating till things got stable. I'm still using coco but mostly hydroton now in the bloom room... the coco is for young development and a safety sponge so to speak surrounded by hydroton for the final home.... so its like a 6x6x6" cube of coco and perlite in a 5-7 gal growbag filled with hydroton... over a reseviour. works really really great/// F the coco and all the fud that goes with it. also moving to RO was good for me. feed 5-10 times a day and everything stays pretty stable ... if anything goes wrong with pH i shift up the water schedule to be less... always seems to work. . my previous run i was using more coco and probably overwatering it... but the results were still amazing..

i'd say you could chop the plant now if you wish... 10 more days is about perfect... you could add 3 more in total darkness after that... boom. I usually go by 3 weeks past first drying pistils..as earliest harvest, this run i went about 4 weeks past first dry pistils..that's probably better. GL!
To be fair I've had this issue before.... I know what I'm doing... I just was away when it first popped uo and didn't react quick enough. Drippers are not the most reliable and I am gonna flush with ro periodically next time to stop this.
 
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