Keeping It Real: An Organic Journey
- Thread starter DonPetro
- Start date
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
we otta make a table of this chart that has it simplified into pictures and symbols bro! way to post itHey folks, DonPetro here. In this thread i will be posting all things Organic such as pictures, general information, tips, thoughts and whatever else relevant to Organics. I encourage others to do the same here as knowledge is power and we should share that power. At the moment we have several heirloom genetics passed down from an old '80s cash cropper. The details on the heritage of these strains are murky but talk of old Afghani's, Haze and original Big Bud surfaced. Being that the collection is quite exstensive, a few winners are sure to emerge. Stay tuned...
A Living Organics Summary
*the following is text adapted from the book Organic Gardener's Composting by Steve Solomon*
There is a great deal of confusion in the gardening world about compost, organic matter, humus, fertilizer and their roles in soil fertility, plant health, animal health, human health and gardening success. The roots of plants, soil animals, and most soil microorganisms need to breathe oxygen. Like other oxygen burners, they expel carbon dioxide. For all of them to grow well and be healthy, the earth must remain open, allowing air to enter and leave freely. Otherwise, carbon dioxide builds up to toxic levels. Imagine yourself being suffocated by a plastic bag tied around your neck. It would be about the same thing to a root trying to live in compacted soil. Without a living soil, plants can not be totally healthy or grow quite as well as they might. Organic matter decomposing in soil opens and loosens soil and makes the earth far more welcoming to plant growth. Its benefits are both direct and indirect. Decomposing organic matter mechanically acts like springy sponges that reduce compaction. However, rotting is rapid and soon this material and its effect is virtually gone. You can easily create this type of temporary result by tilling a thick dusting of peat moss into some poor soil.*A more significant and longer-lasting soil improvement is created by microorganisms and earthworms, whose activities makes particles of sand, silt, and clay cling strongly together and form large, irregularly-shaped grains called "aggregates" or "crumbs" that resist breaking apart. Crumbs develop as a result of two similar, interrelated processes. Earthworms and other soil animals make stable humus crumbs as soil, clay and decomposing organic matter pass through their digestive systems. The casts or scats that emerge*are crumbs.*Free-living soil microorganisms also form crumbs. As they eat organic matter they secrete slimes and gums that firmly cement fine soil particles together into long lasting aggregates. When active, some species of earthworms daily eat a quantity of soil equal to their own body weight. After passing through the worm's gut, this soil has been chemically altered. Minerals, especially phosphorus which tends to be locked up as insoluble calcium phosphate and consequently unavailable to plants, become soluble in the worm's gut, and thus available to nourish growing plants. And nitrogen, unavailably held in organic matter, is altered to soluble nitrate nitrogen. In fact, compared to the surrounding soil, worm casts are five times as rich in nitrate nitrogen; twice as rich in soluble calcium; contain two and one-half times as much available magnesium; are seven times as rich in available phosphorus, and offer plants eleven times as much potassium. Earthworms are equally capable of making trace minerals available. *Mycorrhizal association is another beneficial relationship that should exist between soil organisms and many higher plants. This symbiotic relationship involves fungi and plant roots. Fungi can be pathogenic, consuming living plants. But most of them are harmless and eat only dead, decaying organic matter. When roots are cramped, top growth slows or ceases, health and disease resistance drops, and plants may become stressed despite applications of nutrients or watering. The roots of plants have no way to aggressively breakdown rock particles or organic matter, nor to sort out one nutrient from another. They uptake everything that is in solution, no more, no less while replacing water evaporated from their leaves. However, soil fungi are able to aggressively attack organic matter and even mineral rock particles and extract the nutrition they want. Fungi live in soil as long, complexly interconnected hair-like threads usually only one cell thick. The threads are called "hyphae." Food circulates throughout the hyphae much like blood in a human body. Certain types of fungi are able to form a symbiosis with specific plant species. They insert a hyphae into the gap between individual plant cells in a root hair or just behind the growing root tip. Then the hyphae "drinks" from the vascular system of the plant, robbing it of a bit of its life's blood. However, this is not harmful predation because as the root grows, a bark develops around the hyphae. The bark pinches off the hyphae and it rapidly decays inside the plant, making a contribution of nutrients that the plant couldn't otherwise obtain. Hyphae breakdown products may be in the form of complex organic molecules that function as phytamins for the plant. Like other beneficial microorganisms, micorrhizal fungi do not primarily eat plant vascular fluid, their food is decaying organic matter. Here's yet another reason to contend that soil productivity can be measured by humus content.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Yo DonPetro,
Found your thread, I'll be watching my Organic brother!
I noticed when I upped the power in my LED my yields increased and the organic dankness improved. So if you are doing everything else right, soil, air, temp etc you should see an increase in yield.
Now currently in my 2X3 closest I am using dorm grows 450w bloom led that only draws 280w, prior I was using their 240w model that drew only 120w. Essentially I doubled the power used in the light and saw a significant increase in my yields where all other factors remained same unchanged.
So here is my dilemma, do I go to there 600w bloom model next and only pick up an additional 100w being drawn for a total of 380w verse 280w. Or go to their Full Spectrum 900w model that draws 540 watt.
My 450 bloom even though she produces nice tight solid dank bud decent yields, yet still not comparable in size to my strain growing in a buddy's syn nutrient grow under 1000w HPS/MH lights.
I think my buds from my 450 are nicer but smaller yet I am certain if I step up my game and get the 900w my yields could be just as good if not better then those my friend is growing.
But what do you think of these ladies at 49 days into flowering.
DankSwag
Found your thread, I'll be watching my Organic brother!
I noticed when I upped the power in my LED my yields increased and the organic dankness improved. So if you are doing everything else right, soil, air, temp etc you should see an increase in yield.
Now currently in my 2X3 closest I am using dorm grows 450w bloom led that only draws 280w, prior I was using their 240w model that drew only 120w. Essentially I doubled the power used in the light and saw a significant increase in my yields where all other factors remained same unchanged.
So here is my dilemma, do I go to there 600w bloom model next and only pick up an additional 100w being drawn for a total of 380w verse 280w. Or go to their Full Spectrum 900w model that draws 540 watt.
My 450 bloom even though she produces nice tight solid dank bud decent yields, yet still not comparable in size to my strain growing in a buddy's syn nutrient grow under 1000w HPS/MH lights.
I think my buds from my 450 are nicer but smaller yet I am certain if I step up my game and get the 900w my yields could be just as good if not better then those my friend is growing.
But what do you think of these ladies at 49 days into flowering.
DankSwag
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Lookin good dank! Regarding the light; if you got the space, i say go big man. Check us out here:
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/815786-dons-organic-garden.html
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/815786-dons-organic-garden.html
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Here is a post i found relevant to a question i was asked recently. I believe its from The Marihuana Growers Guide by Ed Rosenthal/Mel Frank.
Marihuana flourishes through a wide range of relative humidity. It can grow in an atmosphere as dry as a desert or as moist as a jungle. Under ordinary household conditions, the humidity will rarely be too extreme for healthy growth. The effects of the humidity on plant growth are closely tied to temperature, win speed, and the moisture of the soil.The relative humidity affects the rate of the plant's transpiration. With high humidity, water evaporates from the leaves more slowly; transpiration slows, and growth slows also. With low humidity, water evaporates rapidly; the plant may not be able to absorb water fast enough to maintain an equilibrium and will protect itself from dehydration by closing its stomata. This slows the transpiration rate and growth also slows. There is a noticeable slowing of growth because of humidity only when the humidity stays at an extreme (less then 20 percent or over 90 percent).Cannabis seems to respond best through a range of 40 to 80 percent relative humidity. You should protect the plants from the direct outflow of a heater or air conditioner, both of which give off very dry air. During the first few weeks of growth, the plants are especially susceptible to a dry atmosphere. If this is a problem, loosely enclose the garden with aluminum foil, white sheet plastic, or other materials. This will trap some of the transpired moisture and raise the humidity in the garden. Once the seedlings are growing well, the drier household atmosphere is preferred.Where the humidity is consistently over 80 percent, the plants may develop stem rot or grow more slowly. Good air circulation from open windows or a small fan is the best solution.As long as the air is freely circulating, the plants will grow well at a higher humidity. Dehumidifiers are expensive (over $100) and an extravagance.
Humidity and Potency
As far as we know, there has been little work done correlating the relative humidity with potency. In the two related cases we've seen, 85, 117 neither study was intended to examine the effects of relative humidity and potency. However, a lower humidity (50 to 70 percent) produced slightly more potent plants than a higher relative humidity (80 percent and over).A dry atmosphere seems to produce more potent plants. When the humidity is about 50 percent or less, plant development is more compact, and the leaves have thinner blades. When the atmosphere is humid, growth is taller and the leaves luxuriant with wider blades. The advantage to the plant is that wider blades have more surface and hence can transpire more water. The converse is that thinner blades help conserve water. Higher potency may simply be due to less leaf tissue for a given amount of cannabinoids and resin glands.The temperature also influences the form and size of the leaves. At higher temperatures, the leaves grow closer together; under a cool regime, the leaves are larger, have wider blades, and are spaced farther apart 77. Possibly, cool temperatures yield slightly lower potency for much the same reason that a moist atmosphere does.However, differences in potency caused by any of the growth factors (light nutrients, water, temperature, humidity, etc.) are small compared to differences caused by the variety (heredity) and full maturation (expression of heredity). For example, the humidity in Jamaica, Colombia, Thailand, and many other countries associated with fine marihuana is relatively high and averages about 80 percent.However, try to keep the atmosphere dry. The atmosphere in heated or air-conditioned homes is already dry (usually 15 to 40 percent). For this reason, many growers sow so that the plants mature during the winter if the home is heated or in mid-summer if it is air-conditioned. As we mentioned, there should be no need to use dehumidifiers. Good air circulation and raising the temperature to 75 to 80F are the simplest means of dealing with high humidity.
Hope this helps. There is another part i want to include which focuses more on temperature. Together you should get a pretty good grasp on what we were discussing the other day. Stay tuned, heh heh....
Marihuana flourishes through a wide range of relative humidity. It can grow in an atmosphere as dry as a desert or as moist as a jungle. Under ordinary household conditions, the humidity will rarely be too extreme for healthy growth. The effects of the humidity on plant growth are closely tied to temperature, win speed, and the moisture of the soil.The relative humidity affects the rate of the plant's transpiration. With high humidity, water evaporates from the leaves more slowly; transpiration slows, and growth slows also. With low humidity, water evaporates rapidly; the plant may not be able to absorb water fast enough to maintain an equilibrium and will protect itself from dehydration by closing its stomata. This slows the transpiration rate and growth also slows. There is a noticeable slowing of growth because of humidity only when the humidity stays at an extreme (less then 20 percent or over 90 percent).Cannabis seems to respond best through a range of 40 to 80 percent relative humidity. You should protect the plants from the direct outflow of a heater or air conditioner, both of which give off very dry air. During the first few weeks of growth, the plants are especially susceptible to a dry atmosphere. If this is a problem, loosely enclose the garden with aluminum foil, white sheet plastic, or other materials. This will trap some of the transpired moisture and raise the humidity in the garden. Once the seedlings are growing well, the drier household atmosphere is preferred.Where the humidity is consistently over 80 percent, the plants may develop stem rot or grow more slowly. Good air circulation from open windows or a small fan is the best solution.As long as the air is freely circulating, the plants will grow well at a higher humidity. Dehumidifiers are expensive (over $100) and an extravagance.
Humidity and Potency
As far as we know, there has been little work done correlating the relative humidity with potency. In the two related cases we've seen, 85, 117 neither study was intended to examine the effects of relative humidity and potency. However, a lower humidity (50 to 70 percent) produced slightly more potent plants than a higher relative humidity (80 percent and over).A dry atmosphere seems to produce more potent plants. When the humidity is about 50 percent or less, plant development is more compact, and the leaves have thinner blades. When the atmosphere is humid, growth is taller and the leaves luxuriant with wider blades. The advantage to the plant is that wider blades have more surface and hence can transpire more water. The converse is that thinner blades help conserve water. Higher potency may simply be due to less leaf tissue for a given amount of cannabinoids and resin glands.The temperature also influences the form and size of the leaves. At higher temperatures, the leaves grow closer together; under a cool regime, the leaves are larger, have wider blades, and are spaced farther apart 77. Possibly, cool temperatures yield slightly lower potency for much the same reason that a moist atmosphere does.However, differences in potency caused by any of the growth factors (light nutrients, water, temperature, humidity, etc.) are small compared to differences caused by the variety (heredity) and full maturation (expression of heredity). For example, the humidity in Jamaica, Colombia, Thailand, and many other countries associated with fine marihuana is relatively high and averages about 80 percent.However, try to keep the atmosphere dry. The atmosphere in heated or air-conditioned homes is already dry (usually 15 to 40 percent). For this reason, many growers sow so that the plants mature during the winter if the home is heated or in mid-summer if it is air-conditioned. As we mentioned, there should be no need to use dehumidifiers. Good air circulation and raising the temperature to 75 to 80F are the simplest means of dealing with high humidity.
Hope this helps. There is another part i want to include which focuses more on temperature. Together you should get a pretty good grasp on what we were discussing the other day. Stay tuned, heh heh....
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
The neem meal and a whole whack of one gallon smart pots arrived today along with a free bag of DTE "Happy Rocks". Have never felt the need to ever use this stuff but you never know. The label kind of peaked my interest though..."fossilized skeletal remains of microscopic single celled aquatic plants..."
Attachments
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Here is the second half to that answer, my good sir, sourced from the same book.
Temperature and Potency
Since marihuana varieties are most often grown in semi-tropical and tropical areas, the idea that high temperatures are necessary for potent marihuana is firmly entrenched in marihuana lore. This myth, like many others, is slowly disappearing as marihuana farmers and researchers accumulate more experience and knowledge. There are only a few published papers on the effects of temperature on potency. The best study we've seen 19 grew four different varieties in a controlled environment under artificial lights on a 15-hour day-length. Two temperature regimes were used: a "warm" regime, with temperatures of about 73F during the day and 61F at night (about average for most homes); and a "hot" regime, set at 90F daytime and 73F at night. In all four varieties, the concentration of THC and of total cannabinoids was higher under the "warm" regime. For instance, a Nepalese strain was 3.4 times higher in concentration of total cannabinoids, and 4.4 times higher in THC, when grown under the "warm" regime than the same strain grown under the "hot" regime. Although we agree with the findings in principle, these figures are higher than our experience tells us.
Interpretation of the data does show one point clearly. In all four varieties, the amount of THC lost as CBN was higher under the "hot" regime (see Table 16), even though the concentration of THC was higher under the "warm" regime.
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency to temperature. The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, given in descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72F day, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
Interestingly, this same research group in an earlier paper 20 reported that the concentration of THC was higher for male plants grown at 90-72F then for those grown at 72-54F. For the female plants, the differences in THC concentration were small. The variety used was a propyl variety (type IV) containing about half as much THCV as THC. For both the male and female plants, the concentration of THCV were high under the 90-72F regime.
The simplest interpretation of all these results is that mild temperatures seem to be optimum for potency. Temperatures over 90F or below 60F seem to decrease the concentration of THC and total cannabinoids. Also, at higher temperatures, much more THC will be lost as CBN. And last, propyl varieties may produce less THCV under a cool regime. Bear in mind that none of these papers accounted for all of the many variables that could have affected the findings. For instance, the concentration of THC was 18 times higher at 75-75F than at 90-54F. We've never seen differences of this magnitude, and sampling error undoubtedly influenced the findings.
In terms of growth rate and potency, daily temperatures of about 75F, give or take a few degrees, are roughly optimum. Normal household temperatures are in the low 70's during daytime and the low 60's at night. The heat from a light system will raise the garden's temperature a few degrees. In most gardens temperatures will be near 75F during the day. Night-time temperatures drop about 10 to 15 degrees. When night-time temperatures drop into the 50's or below, set the light cycle to turn on during the early morning, when the temperature will be lowest. In a small room, the light system will generate enough heat to warm the garden without any need for a heater. Whenever you wish to raise the temperature by, say, five or 10 degrees, it is better to add more lights than a heater. The plants will benefit from the additional light, as well as from the heat they generate. And an electric heater, watt for watt, doesn't generate much more heat than a lamp and its fixture.
Temperature and Potency
Since marihuana varieties are most often grown in semi-tropical and tropical areas, the idea that high temperatures are necessary for potent marihuana is firmly entrenched in marihuana lore. This myth, like many others, is slowly disappearing as marihuana farmers and researchers accumulate more experience and knowledge. There are only a few published papers on the effects of temperature on potency. The best study we've seen 19 grew four different varieties in a controlled environment under artificial lights on a 15-hour day-length. Two temperature regimes were used: a "warm" regime, with temperatures of about 73F during the day and 61F at night (about average for most homes); and a "hot" regime, set at 90F daytime and 73F at night. In all four varieties, the concentration of THC and of total cannabinoids was higher under the "warm" regime. For instance, a Nepalese strain was 3.4 times higher in concentration of total cannabinoids, and 4.4 times higher in THC, when grown under the "warm" regime than the same strain grown under the "hot" regime. Although we agree with the findings in principle, these figures are higher than our experience tells us.
Interpretation of the data does show one point clearly. In all four varieties, the amount of THC lost as CBN was higher under the "hot" regime (see Table 16), even though the concentration of THC was higher under the "warm" regime.
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency to temperature. The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, given in descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72F day, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
Interestingly, this same research group in an earlier paper 20 reported that the concentration of THC was higher for male plants grown at 90-72F then for those grown at 72-54F. For the female plants, the differences in THC concentration were small. The variety used was a propyl variety (type IV) containing about half as much THCV as THC. For both the male and female plants, the concentration of THCV were high under the 90-72F regime.
The simplest interpretation of all these results is that mild temperatures seem to be optimum for potency. Temperatures over 90F or below 60F seem to decrease the concentration of THC and total cannabinoids. Also, at higher temperatures, much more THC will be lost as CBN. And last, propyl varieties may produce less THCV under a cool regime. Bear in mind that none of these papers accounted for all of the many variables that could have affected the findings. For instance, the concentration of THC was 18 times higher at 75-75F than at 90-54F. We've never seen differences of this magnitude, and sampling error undoubtedly influenced the findings.
In terms of growth rate and potency, daily temperatures of about 75F, give or take a few degrees, are roughly optimum. Normal household temperatures are in the low 70's during daytime and the low 60's at night. The heat from a light system will raise the garden's temperature a few degrees. In most gardens temperatures will be near 75F during the day. Night-time temperatures drop about 10 to 15 degrees. When night-time temperatures drop into the 50's or below, set the light cycle to turn on during the early morning, when the temperature will be lowest. In a small room, the light system will generate enough heat to warm the garden without any need for a heater. Whenever you wish to raise the temperature by, say, five or 10 degrees, it is better to add more lights than a heater. The plants will benefit from the additional light, as well as from the heat they generate. And an electric heater, watt for watt, doesn't generate much more heat than a lamp and its fixture.
Jumping Jack
Well-Known Member
This is a great thread man.I love using natural ferts.What difference in buds that are produced with organic ammendments.top quality buds for sure.check this bud out.only 29 days flowering and it is all suger coated and smells amazing.
Attachments
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I've never seen neem meal with that much npk. Nice find.Where did you order that from?The neem meal and a whole whack of one gallon smart pots arrived today along with a free bag of DTE "Happy Rocks". Have never felt the need to ever use this stuff but you never know. The label kind of peaked my interest though..."fossilized skeletal remains of microscopic single celled aquatic plants..."
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Great place called Reindeers Natural Plant Foods but they only ship within Canada. The neem smells REAL strong. Love it. Haha
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Reindeers to DonPetro, A QUICK RUNNER, from WAYY downtown.. swish! BAHNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
heres their site for anyone interested in canada:
www.reindeersnatural.ca
http://www.reindeersnatural.ca/index.html
www.reindeersnatural.ca
http://www.reindeersnatural.ca/index.html
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
Stuff works miracles! Use it all the time!
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Hey mon, how goes the organic journey? Just so you know, using daPetro's mix I've been amazed. not only are the babies extremely well structured i have NOT ADDED ANYTHING BUT WATER SINCE DAY ONE. About to start flowering in 3 days.. not even sure if we will need tea, its that COMPLETE!
its Peat-free, fully 100% organic and supernatural, and silky to the after touch. with Egg shells, Coir, humus and live worms in action in several pots, and much much more visible to the naked eye, its really something to just sit back and let the plants genetical wisdom guide itself to harmony. Check out our latest forum which has some GREAT PICS and Petro's newest mix in action. He even has a sample to give away if you're fast you can be the one to receive it! ask and u shall receive brothamon, trusst!
(dat forum is called The Dons Organic Garden, looking forward to seeing ya there, mon, new pics posted today!)
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Tell us bout da next level!!! crazy milk man bacteria bwoi!
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
This roughly 3-week old seedling has got some issues with clawing and being somewhat pale. Could possibly be sensitive to the soil mix which is pretty amped up. The new growth looks good just a little pale. It had a rough transplant as well so that could be a factor. This is the only seedling to show these signs.
