Lead solder or Lead free

coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
This is taken from the citizen pdf

7-8. Recommended soldering Condition (This product is not adaptable to reflow process.)

-For manual soldering

Please use lead-free soldering.

Soldering shall be implemented using a soldering bit at a temperature lower than 350C, and shall be

finished within 3.5 seconds for one land.

No external force shall be applied to resin part while soldering is implemented.

Next process of soldering should be carried out after the product has return to ambient temperature.

Contacts number of soldering bit should be within twice for each terminal.


So my question is why lead free solder? Is it environmental reasons or are there other reasons to not use a lead solder.
Its my understanding that soldering with lead solder 40/60 is a lot easier than using lead free.
I have bought both but would prefer to use the easier option. While in a local small hardware store today picking up a multi meter and some wire strippers I came across some normal solder and some lead free, the lead free is for plumbers and thus is some chunky ass stuff, the normal stuff is a fine strand and I would of thought it easier to use than the chunk lead free.
I just received my aluminium plate (for a veg light) and angle (for my flower light) yesterday. These are about the last things I need. So I would like to try to start the project tomorrow afternoon. Just want to be sure about the solder before hand.

Another question. For the veg light I am using some parts I bought 6 months ago for a shitty epiled build I was going to do before realising the error of my ways and lack of knowledge on the subject.
I am putting to use a mean well se-350-48 power supply, I will be using a 700ma mean well LDD per clu046-1212 and running 10 of them. The LDD is the version which plugs into a 5up board but I don't want to buy boards for a light I am building for a friend that will be free to him, I would like to just solder wire to the pins. What wire would I need? What efforts can I make to mount them in a safe manor? Should they be enclosed? Any other things is should be thinking about?

Appreciate any advice regarding any or all these issues.
Cheers
C.W
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
i use silver solder but it still has lead in it i believe. you dont want plumbing solder for sure! you want the fine electronic solder like 22 or 24 ga.

i have better luck soldering citis with my weller cranked up to 875F(465C). i get in and out faster without heating up the whole cob. ive even soldered them while attached to a heatsink, the high temp is essential at that point otherwise the heat just flows and flows
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
i use silver solder but it still has lead in it i believe. you dont want plumbing solder for sure! you want the fine electronic solder like 22 or 24 ga.

i have better luck soldering citis with my weller cranked up to 875F(465C). i get in and out faster without heating up the whole cob. ive even soldered them while attached to a heatsink, the high temp is essential at that point otherwise the heat just flows and flows
Click to expand...
Thanks Bobby, I didn't like the look of the plumbers solder to be honest, It came with some flux and the flux was not available on its own so though while I was there I would buy it. The other is a nice fine coil of 40/60 and looks about the gauge you suggested. I figured the reason for the lead free advice was probably more environmental responsibility on the manufacturers part but I have spent a good chunk on these clu058s so thought best ask just to be sure.
I Appreciate your input!
C.W
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
Thanks Bobby, I didn't like the look of the plumbers solder to be honest, It came with some flux and the flux was not available on its own so though while I was there I would buy it. The other is a nice fine coil of 40/60 and looks about the gauge you suggested. I figured the reason for the lead free advice was probably more environmental responsibility on the manufacturers part but I have spent a good chunk on these clu058s so thought best ask just to be sure.
I Appreciate your input!
C.W
Click to expand...
I soldered under a microscope using lead free. It might not be as easy as lead, but it isn't impossible. Make sure you PRACTICE ahead of time. I'm sure you can find something broken with a PCB that you can take apart and solder/de-solder with. I used an old CRT.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
lead free is fuck of lot easier to make a joint with...lead solder has to be on point and or cold joints result much easier.

Eutectic [lead free] maybe that will help your search :peace:
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Lord Kanti said:
I soldered under a microscope using lead free. It might not be as easy as lead, but it isn't impossible. Make sure you PRACTICE ahead of time. I'm sure you can find something broken with a PCB that you can take apart and solder/de-solder with. I used an old CRT.
Click to expand...
this. i used to be a location audio dork and cut my teeth on years of soldering power cables and mini-xlr audio terminals. you get good quick when you realize the consequences of a bad joint when youre stuck out in the field with gear that doesnt work.

soldering isnt hard. tin one part, tin the second, put em together and heat it up, if you get the joint uniformly hot to melt the solder its almost impossible to get a cold joint when youve pre-tinned like that. solder when liquid is super thermally conductive and it just works
 
Millsie

Millsie

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
this. i used to be a location audio dork and cut my teeth on years of soldering power cables and mini-xlr audio terminals. you get good quick when you realize the consequences of a bad joint when youre stuck out in the field with gear that doesnt work.

soldering isnt hard. tin one part, tin the second, put em together and heat it up, if you get the joint uniformly hot to melt the solder its almost impossible to get a cold joint when youve pre-tinned like that. solder when liquid is super thermally conductive and it just works
Click to expand...
Sweet dude cheers for that!

I think I fucked up with the purchase of my heatsinks, they're made for much smaller cobs. CLU058's corners are just over the edge of the heatsinks so I'm gonna go bare and use thermal epoxy/adhesive on the heatsinks hahaha

You mentioned before that you used silver solder, does it contain 2% silver or is it something completely different?
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
yeah just a little bit like 1-10%.

again audio stuff....

careful with the heatsinks at a minimum you want metal under the LES and theyll "probably" be fine if you dont run em too hard
 
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
lead free is fuck of lot easier to make a joint with...lead solder has to be on point and or cold joints result much easier.

Eutectic [lead free] maybe that will help your search :peace:
Click to expand...
This is entirely incorrect, sorry my friend. There is nothing easier or better about lead-free solder, it was created for valid environmental reasons, but is inconvenient for hand soldering due to a higher melting temperature, and still has problems with whiskers (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy)) and unknown long-term reliability.

For a hobbyist, get lead. And the easiest to work with will be 63/37 rosin-core lead solder.
 
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
PhotonFUD said:
Just don't inhale.
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Ah, so you are spreading FUD, not correcting it. Mission accomplished, you have spread fear, uncertainty and doubt.

Ironically, you shouldn't be inhaling flux vapors from any kind of soldering, but lead is not a concern. Hint: The vapor pressure of lead is very, very low, and there is a difference between melting point and boiling point. Didn't Mr. Wizard teach you this? Better go back and watch that episode.
 
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