Light mover ?

zero1776

Active Member
I run a light rail 5 the last run I did was with 2 300w LED pro panels from sunshine systems. a few weeks in to flowering I realized the LED lights on a light mover were not going to produce any weight so I added 600w HPS stationary to see if it would help it did so I put it on the light mover with the LED lights. I noticed the side where I had the stationary light finished 4 weeks ahead of the other side that only had moving light.Has anyone noticed longer flower period due to a light mover.It is a 12ft stretch.Do the plants need so many hours of total direct light over them to finish.I am hanging 2 growzilla's with 2000w in each one now but they travel 12 ft and the other side of the room is dim when the lights are not there. Do you think my flower time would be longer or I would get less bud than if the light were stationary or had to travel less?I think yes from the last run but need more input.Thanx :mrgreen:
 

Treeth

Well-Known Member
I think you should get the light as close to the canopy as possible. The growzilla is a great idea, I also really like the lighting profile of the two bulbs together.

Photosynthesis is a process which occurs in steps, so as the bulbs pass over and especially under high levels of flux, you 'use' this work only momentarily as the light is captured to energize an electron for transport chemically... and all of this takes time. Not much time. But this is why a light mover can be efficient, a plant cannot use all the flux thrown at it, all the time.

Honestly best practice with a light mover is to perhaps to try and synchronize its movement over the canopy as to produce an experimental phasing of your plants biochemical systems. There will probably be a sweet spot for your room your genetics everything you know? All those factors too.

To use those lumens you got you need CO2 and climate control over temperature and humidity. Your plants shouldn't need the light to heat up to over 85 degrees, they need the light to heat closer to one hundred momentarily in the upper canopy to really pull transpiration outta the plant... If you can also feed them with proper nute profiles and properly set ec levels...

I think twelve feet is too long if the mover is slow and lets the plants get 'cold'. But it is not beneficial either to pull up the light for more coverage. Inverse square law is a bitch.

I would use those led panels in combo on a row of plants selectively throughout the grow... They definitely help to fill out calyxs' faster than an hps and better than an MH. And fuck that waiting around for flowering to finish up.

1ks will definitely be the cure for you, especially with those growzilla's. 200,000 lumens god damn -Just keep them air cooled and in tight on the canopy where it means something.

You've probably got the flux needs of your plants about right. Don't skip on good bulbs either, -And those hids will really help the leds work!

Congrats on the equipment. I hope you're running sog and 'chemical' nutrients in some bastard hydro setup that would make fatman squirm... Air Assisted Atomization! Air Assisted Atomization! For that size set up, it really makes sense. you'll save so much on buying nutrients. and time. and waste. (but maybe not setup costs)... damn. maybe next grow huh?
 

zero1776

Active Member
I think you should get the light as close to the canopy as possible. The growzilla is a great idea, I also really like the lighting profile of the two bulbs together.

Photosynthesis is a process which occurs in steps, so as the bulbs pass over and especially under high levels of flux, you 'use' this work only momentarily as the light is captured to energize an electron for transport chemically... and all of this takes time. Not much time. But this is why a light mover can be efficient, a plant cannot use all the flux thrown at it, all the time.

Honestly best practice with a light mover is to perhaps to try and synchronize its movement over the canopy as to produce an experimental phasing of your plants biochemical systems. There will probably be a sweet spot for your room your genetics everything you know? All those factors too.

To use those lumens you got you need CO2 and climate control over temperature and humidity. Your plants shouldn't need the light to heat up to over 85 degrees, they need the light to heat closer to one hundred momentarily in the upper canopy to really pull transpiration outta the plant... If you can also feed them with proper nute profiles and properly set ec levels...

I think twelve feet is too long if the mover is slow and lets the plants get 'cold'. But it is not beneficial either to pull up the light for more coverage. Inverse square law is a bitch.

I would use those led panels in combo on a row of plants selectively throughout the grow... They definitely help to fill out calyxs' faster than an hps and better than an MH. And fuck that waiting around for flowering to finish up.

1ks will definitely be the cure for you, especially with those growzilla's. 200,000 lumens god damn -Just keep them air cooled and in tight on the canopy where it means something.

You've probably got the flux needs of your plants about right. Don't skip on good bulbs either, -And those hids will really help the leds work!

Congrats on the equipment. I hope you're running sog and 'chemical' nutrients in some bastard hydro setup that would make fatman squirm... Air Assisted Atomization! Air Assisted Atomization! For that size set up, it really makes sense. you'll save so much on buying nutrients. and time. and waste. (but maybe not setup costs)... damn. maybe next grow huh?
yeah I have sun pulse MH the6.4k and 3k both 1000w running in each hood they are air cooled I modified the gearbox with the light rail 3.5 gears from the higher rpm gearbox to cut the time down for travel. I have the hoods 12 inches above the canopy.The growth is out of control.I run the GH expert recircualting program the next set up will be air assisted atomizers drain to waste.I do run co2 at 1500ppm and have ac and a dehumidifier as well as as a water chiller.
 

Treeth

Well-Known Member
...Fatman posted a brilliant summary tonight in the 'My HP Aero' thread started months ago by treefarmer; mcgician. Its the tits. But you gotta want to do it all as 'right' as possible.

-WOW zero. That is a quite a fixture, I should like to experience its particular luminous brilliance... So, You don't like the spectral output 'profile' of HPS bulbs then?, enough to run a nice hortilux instead of the 3k MH bulb, for instance?

No one evangelizes using 1kw MH fixtures/bulbs without HPS being in the mix.
 

zero1776

Active Member
...Fatman posted a brilliant summary tonight in the 'My HP Aero' thread started months ago by treefarmer; mcgician. Its the tits. But you gotta want to do it all as 'right' as possible.

-WOW zero. That is a quite a fixture, I should like to experience its particular luminous brilliance... So, You don't like the spectral output 'profile' of HPS bulbs then?, enough to run a nice hortilux instead of the 3k MH bulb, for instance?

No one evangelizes using 1kw MH fixtures/bulbs without HPS being in the mix.
The 3k is supposed to give the red output you need and MH put out more uv to help resin production I am trying it this was next I will use the 6.4k MH and a agrosun red HPS to have a comparison test.:-P
 
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