Mars LED lighting

I didnt mention is had 5 out, need to go thru, maybe a bad solder or bad diode. half of it stopped working, and then all of a sudden, like 2 weeks later, it came back on.
 

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Can't look at voltage and # of LEDs in isolation of the drive current and circuitry.

Series adds voltage and parallel adds current.

They could have any number of the LEDs in series and each series in parallel etc etc.

I am pretty sure they are 2 parralel circuits of half the LEDs in series.

That would explain a single failure cutting out half the light.
 
Thats what I thought to, but still, even the Amps dont add up to use in parallel.

I have 5 blown LEDs out on this thing, and a few weeks ago, half of it stopped working, but not the side with the blown LEDs. I used it actually thru half of veg. then, it just happen to start working again.

Now, you see why im confused over this sht? LOL..
 
so really, they could of put 200 leds in this thing, with these drivers, all would light up, just not good, becassssuuueeeeeeeeee,
 
Well the half cutting out could be from more failed LEDs or shitty soldier joints.

Which is all the more reason to pay 20-30% more and get a good quality cob setup.
 
Well the half cutting out could be from more failed LEDs or shitty soldier joints.

Which is all the more reason to pay 20-30% more and get a good quality cob setup.

yeah, thats what i was thinking too.

It was the first time ive ever solderd. but got my timing down to around 20 seconds changing out per diode by the time i was done. I did end up having 3 diodes that didnt even work right out of the package, so its possible these were faulty. I left my dam volt meter on and need to replace batteries before i can go thru and test the bad ones.

So, back to Mars, this is the reason they use those zener resistors I bet. Its not for diode blown protection to keep the rest running in a sense of security via consumer, but its because it completes the current itself, and regulates run-a-way due to the diode blowing out to begin with, No?

interesting.
 
All depends on the driver. Most DIYers use constant current/constant voltage drivers now. This prevents runaways.
 
I might end up going the 6 cobs for a 4x3, but dam, 600watts. thats $50 a month.

plus everything else.

I have to be down around 350-400 watts max. 4 cobs in a 4x3 isnt really great. as watts psft and lumens are both below the line id like to be.
 
All depends on the driver. Most DIYers use constant current/constant voltage drivers now. This prevents runaways.

So that means what?

ok, I have 100, 3W diodes, with @3.4volts each, 700ma = 340 volts. and 70 amps, and 300watts.

i would need 2 of these, right? MEAN WELL HLG-185H-54A AC/DC Power Supply Single-OUT 54V 3.45A 186.3W It says 54amps,

it has output volts of 54Volts? i would need 6 of these to run 100 3W diodes?lol,

Im just tryin to learn this stuff, weather i make on or not, just want to know.

Thanks man,
 
yeah man, think im going with 8 1212c, that would be ok, u think? each with fan&heatsink, lens, individual drivers,
 
ok cool, definitely doing this. This will be my next light set-up for sure, thanks for the help

Now sweep the leg,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,You got a problem with that??
 
ok cool, definitely doing this. This will be my next light set-up for sure, thanks for the help

Now sweep the leg,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,You got a problem with that??
You'll love cob LEDs i run 6000 watts worth def worth the invest both time wise and money. I also run a lot of other led brands too and I haven't found too many that compare to a well built cob. Good luck and have fun
 
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