Master Kush, first time 200W MH/HPS DWC with AN nutrients

myke

Well-Known Member
Some add straight water some do 100%.I find the 33% keeps a good balance of nutes.Something to consider.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Perhaps, upon the next reservoir change tomorrow I will use distilled water since that only means I'll have to buy an electric water boiler. But for today, I'll be shitting my pants as I hope the LST plant's stem will survive...
I have a water distiller down in the basement but it uses a lot of power to make distilled water so we buy our RO water in town for $3.50Can/20L jug. Surely you must be able to buy reverse osmosis water in Jolly Olde England? ;)

As long as there is still a connection thru the break the plant will be fine. I often deliberately roll the stem hard between my fingers to soften it then let the tops flop over when they stretch up too high and the colas grow fine even if the stem splits open.

I wouldn't be spraying milk on your plants. Good way to get something nasty growing on them. Dilute CalMag is OK to foliar feed with but I never spray my plants with anything unless I find bugs.

To raise my ppm I just add small amounts of the nutrients to the tank to raise the ppm. I know from experimentation that if I use 1ml/L of all 3 of my 3-part nutrients I get 300ppm so if I want to raise my ppm 150 points then I'll add 0.5ml/L of each to move it up 150. No need to mix it up first as it'll mix up in the tank. I use different sizes of syringes to measure accurately but kitchen measuring spoons are good enough.

First top up with water. If using tap water take into account it's ppm. Allow it to mix for a while, 15 min or so, then test the ppm and add more nutes if needed to stay at the target level you want or to raise the ppm for the plants as they grow and need more.

It's a balancing act that depends a lot on your humidity. If the RH is low the plants drink a lot more water so you should have a lower ppm so they don't overload on nutrients, (salts), and cause nute burn. If the RH is high then they drink much less water and need a higher ppm so that they consume enough to maintain their growth.

Light is also an important factor. With strong light they can utilize higher nute levels but need lower levels if the light is not so strong.

They also use carbon dioxide to grow so either fresh air needs to be brought in often or CO2 needs to be artificially supplied. Massive growth rates can be realized with increased CO2, nutes, light and temperature but it's like souping up your car and driving really fast all the time. Exciting yes but the chances of a serious crash are greatly increased. lol

With hydro, serious crashes are more likely to be fatal so mind how you go. ;)

Good luck.

:peace:



:peace:
 
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FastFreddi

Well-Known Member
I have a water distiller down in the basement but it uses a lot of power to make distilled water so we buy our RO water in town for $3.50Can/20L jug. Surely you must be able to buy reverse osmosis water in Jolly Olde England? ;)

As long as there is still a connection thru the break the plant will be fine. I often deliberately roll the stem hard between my fingers to soften it then let the tops flop over when they stretch up too high and the colas grow fine even if the stem splits open.

I wouldn't be spraying milk on your plants. Good way to get something nasty growing on them. Dilute CalMag is OK to foliar feed with but I never spray my plants with anything unless I find bugs.

To raise my ppm I just add small amounts of the nutrients to the tank to raise the ppm. I know from experimentation that if I use 1ml/L of all 3 of my 3-part nutrients I get 300ppm so if I want to raise my ppm 150 points then I'll add 0.5ml/L of each to move it up 150. No need to mix it up first as it'll mix up in the tank. I use different sizes of syringes to measure accurately but kitchen measuring spoons are good enough.

First top up with water. If using tap water take into account it's ppm. Allow it to mix for a while, 15 min or so, then test the ppm and add more nutes if needed to stay at the target level you want or to raise the ppm for the plants as they grow and need more.

It's a balancing act that depends a lot on your humidity. If the RH is low the plants drink a lot more water so you should have a lower ppm so they don't overload on nutrients, (salts), and cause nute burn. If the RH is high then they drink much less water and need a higher ppm so that they consume enough to maintain their growth.

Light is also an important factor. With strong light they can utilize higher nute levels but need lower levels if the light is not so strong.

They also use carbon dioxide to grow so either fresh air needs to be brought in often or CO2 needs to be artificially supplied. Massive growth rates can be realized with increased CO2, nutes, light and temperature but it's like souping up your car and driving really fast all the time. Exciting yes but the chances of a serious crash are greatly increased. lol

With hydro, serious crashes are more likely to be fatal so mind how you go. ;)

Good luck.

:peace:



:peace:
Well I would and do...just not past 3rd week of flower....my plants love it.
FF
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Mission report.
Yesterday I switched out the reservoir water with distilled water and made the feed into 650ish PPM, today that PPM is 625 so I imagine the plants are eating something... I gotta say that the plants look better than ever before, no signs of nutrient deficiencies or anything.

Oh and I got some carbon booster today and sprayed it to the plant, now I'm using two boosters officially... Well, maybe we'll see some hardcore yields for my first time?
20200110_063537.jpg
 
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MF-Wizard

Active Member
Well this is the Cal-mag additive I got, along with the pH pen that either has dead batteries with it or thing's busted. I'm going to buy fresh batteries today and test it out, if it doesn't I'll need to ship it back and ask for a replacement.
 

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MF-Wizard

Active Member
Mission Report
Well the pH pen WORKS!!! I got an accurate reading of pH at 6,5 so I gave the res a little pH down, the PPM is at 640 right now but that might be because I've held back from leveling the water the girls drink since last change there was two liters or so too much and I want a little more air between the net pots before I raise the water level to the I proper amount, if that takes too long I might remove a bit water and replace it with distilled water again and so on.

The girls do look happy... But I'm starting to spot burned leave tips and brown spots, I should I just follow the instructions in the cal-mag label or hit it with half the recommended amount?

In the picture is a 1,5 liter cola bottle for scale.
 

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myke

Well-Known Member
Well they do look better,the AN calmag is high in N so go lightly.Do a side test ad 1ml/litre water see what ppm u get.Around here we use the GH CALiMAGic 1~0~0 its more for hydro.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I'm European and don't understand non-metric, what is a part??
That not metric. That's percentage. If you add 1 part 50g*3 and then add 50g*7. You could also say 30 and 70%. This is very basic math. The part can be whatever you want it to be. Easier way to explain mixing things in recipes etc.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Well yesterday after feeding 20 mils total of Cal-Mag I forgot to check PPM because I was fighting with the pH pen. Today I checked and it was a dramatic 843, sheesh running risks of nutrient burn is always fun... Well I started to distill 8,5 liters of water to dilute the reservoir mixture to a more pliable 600ish. The girls are getting to the final height at which I really should start the flowering really, as a general rule of thumb is two expect the plants to double in height and now that I'm using a 1,5 liter bottle as scale it gives me both excitement and anxiety, the latter coming from the possibility that I'll run out of space in the tent. So yeah guys, these are the last days of veg before switching light cycles.
 

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MF-Wizard

Active Member
Well they do look better,the AN calmag is high in N so go lightly.Do a side test ad 1ml/litre water see what ppm u get.Around here we use the GH CALiMAGic 1~0~0 its more for hydro.
Well no idea because my ape-brain focused on fighting with the new shiny pH meter. But right now is the time where I really need to focus on getting the girls ready for flowering, for which I will purchase a new timer tomorrow since the current one is poo-poo. I removed the LST string from the trained plant to allow her to focus onto vertical growth entirely since I'm running out of horizontal space.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Mission report.

Yeeaah... PPM at 764 and signs of nitrogen burn, after diluting the reservoir to nutcracking 300 I had to start throwing nutes in there and obviously didn't realise just how bad the AN Cal-Mag is with nitrogen. I'm fine, I'm cool with this, it's not like space is super limited at this point and I can't really apply much training at this stage since the stalks at this point are pretty rigid. WELL I GUESS I'M DILUTING THE RES AGAIN AND HOPE TO CHRIST I HIT 600 RANGE...

Swear to Christ if I start seeing calcium and magnesium deficiency cropping up again, I'll just throw 50 PPM worth of Cal-Mag into foliar spray and just mist the plants with that stuff until the final reservoir change before going to flowering.
 

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MF-Wizard

Active Member
Almost time to flip. Looking good man!
Yeah overall they look good, by friday I'm going to flip the light cycle to 12/12 when the small 15CM fan and new timer are in action, at that same day I'll debate whether or not to hit the plants with the foliar booster or wait until the buds have begun to form, since the desired effect is maximised yields.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Temp note though

During lights on the temperature is around 23-24°C and at lights out it stands around 18-19°C, once the fan arrives the daytime temp might drop a tad but point is to ask if y'all think this current temp fluctuation is acceptable for flowering?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Temp note though

During lights on the temperature is around 23-24°C and at lights out it stands around 18-19°C, once the fan arrives the daytime temp might drop a tad but point is to ask if y'all think this current temp fluctuation is acceptable for flowering?
Lookin'great.Ya temps fine.With led you want it warm with lights on.Watch.humidity in the dark period.Are you gonna make a scrog?This will help the overall yield.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Lookin'great.Ya temps fine.With led you want it warm with lights on.Watch.humidity in the dark period.Are you gonna make a scrog?This will help the overall yield.
I'll probably make a SCROG on the same day I make the switch, since the tent has solid aluminum tubes as a frame I can just run the rope through it to make a tight net with zip ties holding each corner in place, each eye of the net will most likely support each specific site unless I want to go the extra mile by making the whole net for whatever reason I'm either forgetting or lazily ignoring.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I'll probably make a SCROG on the same day I make the switch, since the tent has solid aluminum tubes as a frame I can just run the rope through it to make a tight net with zip ties holding each corner in place, each eye of the net will most likely support each specific site unless I want to go the extra mile by making the whole net for whatever reason I'm either forgetting or lazily ignoring.
Youll be glad you did,really helps with training.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
Youll be glad you did,really helps with training.
Okay I have been fighting with the pH and the PPM after diluting is around 540-550 but I've also kept an eye on the night time humidity level now, it's at 78-79%... I imagine that's terrible for flowering when I make the switch of light cycles...
 
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myke

Well-Known Member
Okay I have been fighting with the pH and the PPM after diluting is around 540-550 but I've also kept an eye on the night time humidity level now, it's at 78-79%... I imagine that's terrible for flowering when I make the switch of light cycles...
Ya. That’s high. Aim for 50. And the last two weeks you’ll want even lower.
 

MF-Wizard

Active Member
CRAP ON A BISCUIT

Well, there's definitely something not so fun happening to the plants... PPM is at 592, water level is few centimeters below the 20L and pH was at 6,5ish. WELL, first of all I started distilling more water after I gave the res a tad of pH down and am currently asking for diagnosis, my theory is nitrogen being a dick and calcium/magnesium deficiency which seems to be a running theme.
 

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