Matching Drivers and COBs

Gromax 3590B

Active Member
Thats a perfect fit as the CXB3590 draws around 23w at 33V when pushed with 700ma
View attachment 3849867
Your spreadsheet tells that a 3500K CD bin 36V CXB3590 at 50 degree Celsius, +-33V and 64.01% efficiency consumes 22.9 watts and gives 2.98 umol per watt to the plants. This spreadsheet is from supra and i give it 25 cents.

I am new to leds and lightning. Just my 2 cents, but i swear that i ruin the gavitas with my yet to build gromax maxhortilights.

Just my Penny.
 

Gromax 3590B

Active Member
I have a Killa-watt that plugs inline with driver and tells you about circuit like watts drawn voltage etc...
This is how I know how far dimmed I am.
Keep in mind aftr cobs warm up (5 min) they draw slightly less than when initially turned on. So like 185w draw when turned on might be 180w after 10 minutes.
I am planning to make my own voltage/ampère/wattage meter (arduino based) in each light fixture and make them able to daisychain with each other so that is is possible to run 4096 fixtures on 1 controller. Temperature of the COBs, voltage and current are lohged.

I go to bed now. It is 2:43 here.
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I am planning to make my own voltage/ampère/wattage meter (arduino based) in each light fixture and make them able to daisychain with each other so that is is possible to run 4096 fixtures on 1 controller. Temperature of the COBs, voltage and current are lohged.

I go to bed now. It is 2:43 here.
Yes spreadsheets from Supra.
I am interested to see the Arduino work you do.
Hoping to go that route also.
 

GrowinGreenBeans

New Member
What is the best way to add blue or red light when in the flowering phase? Do you think having a smaller driver to power up just 3-4 COBs is necessary or should they be added in from the beginning with making my main light source?
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
What is the best way to add blue or red light when in the flowering phase? Do you think having a smaller driver to power up just 3-4 COBs is necessary or should they be added in from the beginning with making my main light source?
There are lots of opinions, but for me just the 3000K and 3500K cobs are all I run
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I got all 3500K, but as I finish my refit I'll be ordering 3000K chips to replace those that got wet.

I'm very much looking forward to doing a side by side.
That will be cool to see, because I think my 3000k side make bigger buds.
I switched locations of the cobs as my test for this run, but in a small tent with no optics it might just be the back on the tent is the prime location.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That will be cool to see, because I think my 3000k side make bigger buds.
I switched locations of the cobs as my test for this run, but in a small tent with no optics it might just be the back on the tent is the prime location.
Back of the tent usually has the best reflectivity. I can do a true side by side in my setup, no outside variables except Kelvin temp.
 

Mike Cap

Active Member
I can't say either is better (cuz I don't think one is), I think it comes down to the style of fixture you're trying to build vs available drivers.
i was thinking if I drive the 72v cob with 1.05a = 75w per cob, needing only 8 cob's to achieve 600w @ 56%+/- efficiency vs 12 36v @ 1.4a cob's to get the same amount of light . Am i over thinking this thing or what ?
thanks for the help guy's :peace::bigjoint:
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
i was thinking if I drive the 72v cob with 1.05a = 75w per cob, needing only 8 cob's to achieve 600w @ 56%+/- efficiency vs 12 36v @ 1.4a cob's to get the same amount of light . Am i over thinking this thing or what ?
thanks for the help guy's :peace::bigjoint:
(8 )72v @ 1.05a = (8 )36v @ 2.1a
It all comes down to what drivers you want to use and fit the amount of cobs you want to use really
 
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