Mega Crop vs Dyna-Gro comparison grow

hybridway2 said:

Any nute that requires silica to balance the feed (temporarily) is crap.

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Well you can either add pH-up or you can add something beneficial to the plants. Your choice.

The instructions say 4ml/gall.

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Advanced growers don't need instructions. Just a pH pen and a TDS meter.

Ok, you like smoking silicone.

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I think you mean silicon, which is the 2nd most abundant element on earth.

DynaGrow makes NO sense & the only way you can use it is with major modifications to the schedule.

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I'll agree that their feeding schedule is not great, but only inexperienced growers follow schedules. To that, I've seen maybe one feeding schedule from a single plant food company that I'd consider spot on. All the rest of them instruct their users to overfeed and are overly complicated. Once you understand that feeding schedules exist more to move product than any other reason, you can stop taking them so literally.

They even say add it after to raise ph.
Silica should always be added first. Sure a lil won't hurt but it separates, should not have to be done.

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When mixing a fresh res with any plant food, silica should be added first, as you already know. You *could* also use it after everything is all mixed up to adjust the pH of your reservoir with zero issues BUT that is likely giving your plants more silica than needed. It's really no different than growers feeding plants additional amounts of cal/mag when their base nutrients already contain it. Feeding plants more of any single element than needed can cause nutritional issues in the plant.

The ph is so low the only way i can see using DynaGrow is just add enough base to not drop past 6.0. If youre short nutes oh well.
Crappola

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Maybe you don't understand water chemistry? The bicarbonate content of your tap water buffers pH. If you use RO water then adding any plant food to it will cause the pH to drop significantly. For example, MegaCrop at 1.1 EC in RO water produces a resulting pH of 5.02. Straight DynaGro with my tap water results in a pH of 5.9. MC with my tap water results in a pH of 6.4ish. I fail to see the issue, regardless of where the pH falls. Have you heard of pH-up and pH-down? lol

lukio said:

nah. it turned into this twice in a row, these are my plants last round.
View attachment 4424572

you saying thats not cal? interested in what you think that is? starts like your tipping and gets worse around weeks 9-10


heres some random sites diagnoses
View attachment 4424579

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First of all those plants look really nice. Secondly, if you actually had a calcium issue, do you think for once second that your plants would have gotten to the finish line looking that chunky and frosty? No. Your plants either have enough calcium or they don't. It's literally that simple. Also, if you truly had a calcium issue, it would've shown up in veg.

What are you feeding them and at what EC? What are they growing in?

homebrewer said:

Well you can either add pH-up or you can add something beneficial to the plants. Your choice.
Advanced growers don't need instructions. Just a pH pen and a TDS meter.
I think you mean silicon, which is the 2nd most abundant element on earth.
I'll agree that their feeding schedule is not great, but only inexperienced growers follow schedules. To that, I've seen maybe one feeding schedule from a single plant food company that I'd consider spot on. All the rest of them instruct their users to overfeed and are overly complicated. Once you understand that feeding schedules exist more to move product than any other reason, you can stop taking them so literally.
When mixing a fresh res with any plant food, silica should be added first, as you already know. You *could* also use it after everything is all mixed up to adjust the pH of your reservoir with zero issues BUT that is likely giving your plants more silica than needed. It's really no different than growers feeding plants additional amounts of cal/mag when their base nutrients already contain it. Feeding plants more of any single element than needed can cause nutritional issues in the plant.
Maybe you don't understand water chemistry? The bicarbonate content of your tap water buffers pH. If you use RO water then adding any plant food to it will cause the pH to drop significantly. For example, MegaCrop at 1.1 EC in RO water produces a resulting pH of 5.02. Straight DynaGro with my tap water results in a pH of 5.9. MC with my tap water results in a pH of 6.4ish. I fail to see the issue, regardless of where the pH falls.

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Not trying to be an asshole, really.
I tried to modify the feed schedule i little before I gave up.
Even feeding at a recommended dose put me around 300+ppm/500scale less then the schedule said it would. The ph mad low.
Then tried to feed to get ph w/ 2ml, silica (something i do once a week if that) & ph up. Ph up raised the ppm's by another 3-400 putting me in range but not liking the idea of using ph up as a nutrient.
Idk man. Maybe you got it down but until you actually share with others how then DynaGrows scheduale isnt even w/i the realm of reality.
To much Silica=/silicone, rubber plant-unhealthy.

hybridway2 said:

Not trying to be an asshole, really.
I tried to modify the feed schedule i little before I gave up.
Even feeding at a recommended dose put me around 300+ppm/500scale less then the schedule said it would. The ph mad low.
Then tried to feed to get ph w/ 2ml, silica (something i do once a week if that) & ph up. Ph up raised the ppm's by another 3-400.
Idk man. Maybe you got it down but until you actually share with others how then DynaGrows scheduale isnt even w/i the realm of reality.
To much Silica=/silicone, rubber plant-unhealthy.

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What were you growing in? What products were you using? RO or tap water?

hybridway2 said:

Ph drops like crazy with DG even after 1/2 gall. Silica. Just a few days later.
His name is Homebrewer for a reason. Beer? Doubt it. Teas, & anything to make DG work, most likely.
Instructions tell me enough about a clueless company.

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I guess you're a fool then who doesn't know how to grow in hydro. Dyno Gro is the most pH stable plant food I've ever used. Learn how to operate properly and come back please.

There is nothing wrong with any complete plant food, they all contain minerals and chelated minerals. I guess AN is the only one to really avoid because they use urea in their product lines. Different nitrate sources affect pH differently.

Homebrewer has done more for this community than you will ever do! Period.

hybridway2 said:

To much Silica=/silicone, rubber plant-unhealthy.

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This made me lol. Did you miss chemistry in school or are you just a narrow minded asshole?

Wastei said:

I guess you're a fool then who doesn't know how to grow in hydro. Dyno Gro is the most pH stable plant food I've ever used. Learn how to operate properly and come back please.

There is nothing wrong with any complete plant food, they all contain minerals and chelated minerals. I guess AN is the only one to really avoid because they use urea in their product lines. Different nitrate sources affect pH differently.

Homebrewer has done more for this community than you will ever do! Period.

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Im not saying hes not a great contributor or good guy. You're missing the point.
My point is if you cannot evdn come close to the schedule then how does one get started?
The schedule makes no sense.
Sure, maybe its a decent product, but sure as hell isn't based on feeding recommendations by the company. Even if you toned it down.
I bought it to try seeking higher mag & P levels which i saw in MagPro. As leds tend to yank them right outta the plant.
Idk, maybe if someone could explain how to use this stuff w/o a ton of ph up or Silica,then id give it another go on a runt to test. Still, the ph dropped to the 4's in coco when was going in at 6.5. ???

hybridway2 said:

Im not saying hes not a great contributor or good guy. You're missing the point.
My point is if you cannot evdn come close to the schedule then how does one get started?
The schedule makes no sense.
Sure, maybe its a decent product, but sure as hell isn't based on feeding recommendations by the company. Even if you toned it down.
I bought it to try seeking higher mag & P levels which i saw in MagPro. As leds tend to yank them right outta the plant.
Idk, maybe if someone could explain how to use this stuff w/o a ton of ph up or Silica,then id give it another go on a runt to test. Still, the ph dropped to the 4's in coco when was going in at 6.5. ???

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You learn plant nutrition by monitoring the plants. Not more or less. When I first started growing I followed homebrewers and other knowledgeable peoples guidelines on this site that had results to show for themselves.

Companies will always go for profit ie they want you to use as much of their products as possible.

homebrewer said:

What were you growing in? What products were you using? RO or tap water?

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^^^This might help others better understand how to address your situation @hybridway2.

Using bottled nutrients general rule is start with 1/2 app rate and go from there. As Wastei said nute companies are in the business of selling nutes, more you use happier they are but what do your plants say?

As HB stated your water source, your growing media or other additives your using may be contributing to the wild pH swings.

Excellent grow shootout.

What kind of numbers you guys running? Here's some common profiles I've gathered for comparisons.


I think its in @Renfro killer spreadsheet.

(No pc access...at hospital w sick mom)

On the silica dealio.
Only for the first mix do I add silica last. (To learn how much I need to add for desired PH.)

Once known silica its always added first to my RO.

All other adjustments after that ate done with diluted ph up/down. (Coco dtw)

homebrewer said:

if you actually had a calcium issue, do you think for once second that your plants would have gotten to the finish line looking that chunky and frosty? No.

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cheers, but i disagree and they were nicer without it a couple grows before. one plant gave me the typical rust spots...

im in coco, feeding 1ec in flower with RO water, which by the way, i HAVE to add mag to if i dont want a deficiency. everything fine until late flower.

im all ears.

ive gone back to Canna Coco A+B and have a tonne of plants at week 3...my fingers are crossed it doesnt happen again.

lukio said:

cheers, but i disagree and they were nicer without it a couple grows before. one plant gave me the typical rust spots...

im in coco, feeding 1ec in flower with RO water, which by the way, i HAVE to add mag to if i dont want a deficiency. everything fine until late flower.

im all ears.

ive gone back to Canna Coco and have a tonne of plants at week 3...my fingers are crossed it doesnt happen again.

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Calcium is not mobile in plants. That means that mature and older leaves are generally unaffected. Given the fact your food has calcium in it, how exactly do you think those older leaves all-of-a-sudden developed a 'calcium deficiency' late in flower? Do you think the nutritional needs of these plants increase near harvest? They don't. To that, DynaGro has 2% calcium (which is about 1/3 the amount MegaCrop supplies). Where is my calcium deficiency?

If I were you, I'd quit feeding so high. 1.0 EC in containers is almost double what I feed and you're watering probably 2x as much. So 4x the amount of salts running through your containers isn't an ideal situation. What I'm saying is that you don't have deficiencies, you have excesses.

homebrewer said:

What were you growing in? What products were you using? RO or tap water?

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CoCo, bubbled tap (7ph), DynaGrow

hybridway2 said:

CoCo, bubbled tap (7ph), DynaGrow

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What products were you using? What EC were you feeding at?

homebrewer said:

What products were you using? What EC were you feeding at?

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Cyco-Pearl
Started at recommended which instead off 900 or so was 600. Dropped that down to decrease the ph drop, (did not much) then tried 1/2 silica (biotanicare) with the other half ph up.
Dyno-Gro (not foliage)
Dyna-Bloom
Biotanicare silica SI
Mag-Pro
I saw positive results in veg at first till the silica got the best of them.
I'm sure there is a way to feed this stuff as you are getting results you're pleased with.
I'd like to know?
Rumor has it a guy with one grow under his belt made this stuff, is that true? And maybe why the chart is so off?

hybridway2 said:

Cyco-Pearl
Started at recommended which instead off 900 or so was 600. Dropped that down to decrease the ph drop, (did not much) then tried 1/2 silica (biotanicare) with the other half ph up.
Dyno-Gro (not foliage)
Dyna-Bloom
Biotanicare silica SI
Mag-Pro
I saw positive results in veg at first till the silica got the best of them.
I'm sure there is a way to feed this stuff as you are getting results you're pleased with.
I'd like to know?
Rumor has it a guy with one grow under his belt made this stuff, is that true? And maybe why the chart is so off?

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A guy with one grow under his belt made Dyna-Gro? is that what you’re asking?

hybridway2 said:

Cyco-Pearl
Started at recommended which instead off 900 or so was 600. Dropped that down to decrease the ph drop, (did not much) then tried 1/2 silica (biotanicare) with the other half ph up.
Dyno-Gro (not foliage)
Dyna-Bloom
Biotanicare silica SI
Mag-Pro
I saw positive results in veg at first till the silica got the best of them.
I'm sure there is a way to feed this stuff as you are getting results you're pleased with.
I'd like to know?
Rumor has it a guy with one grow under his belt made this stuff, is that true? And maybe why the chart is so off?

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silica got the best of them? were they extra rigid to the point where they would no longer draw up nutrients ?

iShatterBladderz said:

A guy with one grow under his belt made Dyna-Gro? is that what you’re asking?

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Yes, that's what a rep told me.

mr. childs said:

silica got the best of them? were they extra rigid to the point where they would no longer draw up nutrients ?

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Dying rubber leaves, rubber stems, sick plant.
Nobody in their right mind feeds 4ml a gall of silica unless going Max strength once in a blue moon.

I'm glad you didn't have the pH issues i had with Mega Crap. most unstable nute i've ever tried. and i even had the company try to help me figure it out and they never could. and there were a handful of other members here that had the exact same pattern that i had with MC.

do you have a preferred NPK for veg and bloom @homebrewer ? for hydro (RDWC) drain to waste

i've been follwoing Fatman with 3-1-2 for veg and 3-1-4 for bloom this run. so far so good. Foliage Pro for veg and then a mix of GH maxibloom and maxigrow for blooom.

hybridway2 said:

Cyco-Pearl
Started at recommended which instead off 900 or so was 600. Dropped that down to decrease the ph drop, (did not much) then tried 1/2 silica (biotanicare) with the other half ph up.
Dyno-Gro (not foliage)
Dyna-Bloom
Biotanicare silica SI
Mag-Pro
I saw positive results in veg at first till the silica got the best of them.
I'm sure there is a way to feed this stuff as you are getting results you're pleased with.
I'd like to know?

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I asked for EC, you gave me ppm. What scale is your TDS meter on? Actually, don't worry about it. Look, feeding with Grow and ONLY grow from start to finish at their recommended maintenance dose will crush it (I think that's 1/2 tsp/gal). No offense but you need to make this as easy as possible. Don't worry about pH. Don't worry about all that other shit you were feeding with before. Ignore feeding schedules, forever. Learn to feed based on EC and more importantly, learn the basics of plant nutrition from non-canna websites.

Btw, overdoses of silica results in rigid, brittle leaves.

Rumor has it a guy with one grow under his belt made this stuff, is that true? And maybe why the chart is so off?

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Did you miss my previous comment??? Once you understand that feeding schedules exist more to move product than any other reason, you can stop taking them so literally.

hybridway2 said:

Yes, that's what a rep told me.

Dying rubber leaves, rubber stems, sick plant.
Nobody in their right mind feeds 4ml a gall of silica unless going Max strength once in a blue moon.

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Depends on the silica potency. DG Pro-tekt is about10ppm per ML. GH Armor Si around 26. Products vary greatly.
Based on the analysis breakdown, the total N PPM seems high, relative to the other primary elements.
Does DTW coco/plants make use of the ammoniacal, or is it just leaving with runoff?