MEGACROP?

Greenleafnutrients.com always shows love just got this today.

The beast megacrop grows....if I let this pot dry up over it goes....it's got a real lean....its feeding 1 1/2 gal a day....

Does anyone use just the A from the two part? In flower with soil medium

Inkaddict$ said:

The beast megacrop grows....if I let this pot dry up over it goes....it's got a real lean....its feeding 1 1/2 gal a day....View attachment 5307531

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im surprised they having started breaking with all that lean

ALPHA.GanjaGuy said:

im surprised they having started breaking with all that lean

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I tied some up

Hey, I don't wanna bury out an old thread, but I don't feel like creating a completely new thread just for this question, and it's about megacrop.

I live in Germany, and I'm actually able to import this stuff, which is nice. I've looked at this stuff for a VERY long time now. Problem is that I currently still have 1 leftover bag of "Biobizz All Mix", which is a peat-moss based "organic" substrate. I don't want to buy another bag of substrate, as it's almost impossible currently in Germany (legalization, all shops are EMPTY, seriously! They sell bags of soil for 5x the price on Ebay now, it's insane). It's worm castings, perlite, peat moss, pre-amended for 4-6 weeks, that kinda stuff. I plan on doing autoflowers with one re-pot, from solo cup with a light seedling mix (larger ones, 450ml), to final pot, 14L All Mix (around 3.5 gallon pots).

Now I want to ask the professionals who have some experience with organics and synthetics, both - This substrate is considered organic because the microbes in there feed the roots, and buffer out any PH fluctuations. The substrates base PH is 6.2, and it recommends to feed between 6.3-7PH. Now my question to all of this is - If I start using megacrop as soon as the substrate is all eaten up by roots, what PH should I aim for? This confuses me EXTREMELY, but that's because I'm still new to all of this. What PH should I aim for with these kind of synthetic nutrients, if I use an organic substrate that buffers PH to a specific range? I see peat-moss users usually go for 5.8PH, but this is an organic mixture which wants higher PH, so I'm absolutely confused!

I would be very happy if someone can explain if this works, and if it does, how does this work?

After the 6 weeks of nutrients is used up, treat the mix like any usual peat soilless mix. Water with your nutrient solution and aim for 5.6-6.2pH.
You can periodically check the runoff or do a slurry test.

ICL is the big player in EU. You might find substantial saving if you can source their products.


...and good luck getting peat products at a good price over there.

I use the one part, Great stuff.

I use Mega Crop one part with ProMIx HP in 5 gallon pails with GroBuckets.



Well water has a ppm of ~500 and ph of ~7.5

I Do Not Use ph down. MC is ph buffered or I think they call it chelated ?



Cheers

I use Mega Crop with plain tap water too. Works great for all plants. Makes it easy to figure out what extra's you might want or need for a specific strain. It's also pretty affordable.

Mega Crop is a great value and works as well as anything else I've tried.

The only negative is that is NEVER completely dissolves and will muck up a reservoir.

Billy the Mountain said:

Mega Crop is a great value and works as well as anything else I've tried.

The only negative is that is NEVER completely dissolves and will muck up a reservoir.

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Weird, I have never had a problem with it dissolving, I dump it in a gallon jug of water shake it for a min or two and its dissolved.

Never used MegaCrop but some folks say worth trying

IndooorGardnerOhio said:

Weird, I have never had a problem with it dissolving, I dump it in a gallon jug of water shake it for a min or two and its dissolved.

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I don't know why your results would be any different.

I've used five or six 3lb. bags over the past few years and it's been a consistent issue. It matters not if it's RO or Lake Michigan tap, hot or cold, manual or power mixed, there's always some sediment. It's not an issue for me unless used in a reservoir.

Billy the Mountain said:

I don't know why your results would be any different.

I've used five or six 3lb. bags over the past few years and it's been a consistent issue. It matters not if it's RO or Lake Michigan tap, hot or cold, manual or power mixed, there's always some sediment. It's not an issue for me unless used in a reservoir.

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That is SUPER weird, I just mixed some up today in a bottle of water for a soaking a pellet for a seedling and I shook the bottle for like 10 seconds and it was fully dissolved no sediment. pH of my water might play a part in it, only thing I can think of. Maybe its because I add Humic Acid to my water to remove chlorine? Or Maybe because I use Vinegar to Adjust the pH of my water cause it comes out the tap at 7.7pH. Not sure, but its never been an issue for me personally.

Not a problem for me either. But I do grind it first to incorporate the little balls

I mix in one gallon milk containers, run the tap on full hot for a couple of seconds and then close to room temp.

Cheers

chuckeye said:

Not a problem for me either. But I do grind it first to incorporate the little balls

I mix in one gallon milk containers, run the tap on full hot for a couple of seconds and then close to room temp.

Cheers

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I dont even do any of that, I just run straight cold water. I honestly think it is either the vinegar, Humic acid, or the amount im using, I only use between 2 grams and 6 grams depending on stage of growth.