Mild droopy and burnt tips late flower

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TrentSteel

Active Member
OldMedUser said:
From what I've researched about it it only does that when there isn't enough water available from the roots otherwise they just drink lots more to compensate and the stomata remain open. Judging from how much extra water they need when my rh is low I'd say the stomata are still wide open.



Every plant of many different strains I've ever grown ends up with little yellow tips and sometimes they droop and other times they stand up praying to the light. If the edges of the leaves aren't spiking up making them look all jagged then all is well in their world. That's the first sign of heat stress whether from ambient temperature or infrared from the HID lights.



Not just at the end of flowering but all thru late veg and flowering. A 4gal pot seems to be about the size I need so watering is only necessary every 4 days or so. As I use ProMix HP for my base I let the pots get quite light before watering and occasionally they get dry enough so the leaves are drooping but I try to water before that happens.



The humidifiers plug up in a few weeks if I use tap water. I'll use it in plant trays that I sometimes set on a shelf in the grow room for evaporation. 3 - 10" pans will bring the rh up maybe 15% and with the exhaust fan rarely kicking in I can maintain 30 - 40% in there in the winter. For about 3 months during spring/summer it can stay around 60% most of the time.

I bought a 600cfm charcoal filter about 7 years ago and it's still all sealed up in the box. With no close neighbours I don't really need it but had money to burn at the time and blew 2G at a hydro store. Got the CO2 controller then too but have only used it to see how much CO2 my alcohol burner, candle or even my breath while working in there can produce and decided against investing in a tank of gas. I can keep the CO2 over 1500ppm burning around 100ml of methyl hydrate for every 12 hour shift and only use it during the stretch when the plants are going thru a huge growth spurt and can really use elevated CO2, nutes and light. After the stretch they go back to pre-flower feeding levels and need less inputs to grow well.

:peace:
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Thx for the input.
What do you think in regards to the post to just made? Lol, sorry curious if you think I should water today or wait until morning.

Edit: added a canopy shot
 

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OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
TrentSteel said:
Damn, does this girl not look thirsty? Lights out in 5.5 hrs should I water now or leave for the morning, bein watering every other day but not since sunday now. Seemed moist on top this morning but maybe i was just squishing worms with my fingers, lol
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I think I'd be watering now. Looks a little dry to me. I see you use cloth grow bags so there's a huge loss of water right there. I still use regular plastic pots that I drill a lot of extra holes in for good drainage. I repot usually four times from sprout and each time I saw the bottom of the rootball off with a bread knife so the roots branch out and spread fine feeder roots all over. If roots are wound around the sides I shave those off too. Once the plants need watering in less than 48 hours it's time to up-pot for me.

RootPrune01.jpg

RootPrune02.jpg

I did plan to collect some worms this summer and start a little worm bin in the shop to add them to my indoor growing but didn't and now it's dropping to -25C overnight it's too damn late for that. The outdoor patch I started 3 years ago was full of worms this year so transplanted lots of them to the new raised bed I grew 5 autos in this past summer. Going to grow opium poppies in there next summer as the hemp field down the road will mess up any pot plants out there again next year so not doing that.

TrentSteel said:
Thx for the input.
What do you think in regards to the post to just made? Lol, sorry curious if you think I should water today or wait until morning.

Edit: added a canopy shot
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They look OK there but dry in the previous pics.

Have you ever heard about droughting to increase yield and resin production? Check out the link.

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight and Cannabinoid Content in Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress in: HortScience Volume 54 Issue 5 (2019)

:peace:
 
T

TrentSteel

Active Member
OldMedUser said:
I think I'd be watering now. Looks a little dry to me. I see you use cloth grow bags so there's a huge loss of water right there. I still use regular plastic pots that I drill a lot of extra holes in for good drainage. I repot usually four times from sprout and each time I saw the bottom of the rootball off with a bread knife so the roots branch out and spread fine feeder roots all over. If roots are wound around the sides I shave those off too. Once the plants need watering in less than 48 hours it's time to up-pot for me.

View attachment 5223850

View attachment 5223851

I did plan to collect some worms this summer and start a little worm bin in the shop to add them to my indoor growing but didn't and now it's dropping to -25C overnight it's too damn late for that. The outdoor patch I started 3 years ago was full of worms this year so transplanted lots of them to the new raised bed I grew 5 autos in this past summer. Going to grow opium poppies in there next summer as the hemp field down the road will mess up any pot plants out there again next year so not doing that.



They look OK there but dry in the previous pics.

Have you ever heard about droughting to increase yield and resin production? Check out the link.

Increasing Inflorescence Dry Weight and Cannabinoid Content in Medical Cannabis Using Controlled Drought Stress in: HortScience Volume 54 Issue 5 (2019)

:peace:
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Hmm, interesting study. Thanks for the advice Im mid-water now think I would have gone too dry come morning.

This is my 3rd run with soil (rols), still getting used to the drop off in watering after mid-flower.

I have pretty minimal experience with salt nutrients as well.
 
T

TrentSteel

Active Member
Wow, so my leaf offset on the plant that appeared thirsty was 0f and not even an hour after watering its back to a healthy - 2f.

Makes me wonder how much info. you can actually obtain with frequent IR thermometer scans, just a matter of figuring out why your transpiration is off which Im sure can get tricky in certain situations.

Edits: maybe just a coincidence seems to be back up to 0f leaf offset, lol
 
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OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
TrentSteel said:
Hmm, interesting study. Thanks for the advice Im mid-water now think I would have gone too dry come morning.

This is my 3rd run with soil (rols), still getting used to the drop off in watering after mid-flower.

I have pretty minimal experience with salt nutrients as well.
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After the stretch period which is about 40% of the flowering period and a huge growth spurt where the plants can eat up to 4x the usual amount they settle down into just growing flowers hoping to be pollinated. Feeding resumes normal pre-flower levels and the buds begin forming colas.

I came to these conclusions while running DWC for about 50 grows and monitoring my nutrient drops every 3 day top-up. I did this over a period of a couple of years with different stains and it was always the same. Since that time I've read a lot more about cultivation of our favourite plants and seen other studies reporting the same thing. A long time ago I tried dosing my plants with bloom nutes and a half dose of Big Bud a week before flipping to flower then giving the other half of the BB at the flip. Way faster development of buds and bud sites ensued. So many give advice to not give bloom boosters or nutes until the end of stretch but then you lose the advantage of the growth spurt during stretch. The plants want lots of everything during the stretch and if it's not there they under-perform.

Being lazy and poor I never changed my nutes every week and honestly it's a waste of good nutes especially during veg. I would top up with RO water, allow it to mix for a while then check the ppm. If it was below my target level I would just add small amounts of nutes in the same ratio to bump it back up to where I wanted it. As I used AN 3-part nutes with pH Perfect technology and RO or distilled water only I never bothered checking pH. I would change after the stretch then feed Lucas Formula style with Big Bud until the end of weekd 6 then coast with minimal nute additions but added epsom salts for the Mg and S and maybe some added K as those 3 are in higher demand near the end. I finally stopped changing nutes at all and didn't notice much if any difference.

My DWC grows were in stand-alone Rubbermaid tubs so no rez involved.

:peace:
 
VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
31c at 21% humidity today in the tent. Stomata are open, plants drink fine and all is well, I just have to water more often. The only time I've ever tried to follow vpd charts I've had bud rot like clockwork as it gets hot here. This has been at a vpd of 2.8-3.2 for the last week and is always praying and drinking.
IMG_20221110_161632.jpg
I just follow the plants chart in the form of general health and vigor and tend to take any chart with a grain of salt. Fixating on numbers isn't always the best idea.
 
T

TrentSteel

Active Member
VincenzioVonHook said:
31c at 21% humidity today in the tent. Stomata are open, plants drink fine and all is well, I just have to water more often. The only time I've ever tried to follow vpd charts I've had bud rot like clockwork as it gets hot here. This has been at a vpd of 2.8-3.2 for the last week and is always praying and drinking.
View attachment 5224061
I just follow the plants chart in the form of general health and vigor and tend to take any chart with a grain of salt. Fixating on numbers isn't always the best idea.
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Hmm, I guess I have a lot to learn I had heard that you could throw VPD to the wayside late flower, but thats almost as confusing as it is interesting, how old is that plant?

The hot environment and bud rot makes sense, might be risky to follow after mid flower if your hotter than 77f
 
T

TrentSteel

Active Member
I thought I had once read that the plants could adapt to varying VPD swings but if it gets used to a stable VPD than it really doesnt like the swings. Is this not a small factor in acclimating indoor plants to the outdoor?

Ill have to see if I can find it.

When Im torn between 2 methods I always lean towards biomimicry, and theres no where on the planet the VPD would remain stable, so Im interested.
 
VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
TrentSteel said:
Hmm, I guess I have a lot to learn I had heard that you could throw VPD to the wayside late flower, but thats almost as confusing as it is interesting, how old is that plant?

The hot environment and bud rot makes sense, might be risky to follow after mid flower if your hotter than 77f
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It's 28 days on the dot in that pic. Everything is all good over winter, but summer is killer here without proper environmental management.
 
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