Mixing White & Multi Spectrum Chip LEDs to Grow MedMan Silver Skunk BX1

Im not cuttin down the bml light but diffusing 10% to 15% equals 10 to 15 percent less buds?? I tested the difference at 13 inches from the diode on a single chip 1 watt led diode from china(ebay)and there was an increase with out the primary lens i didnt measure the distance drop with my lux meter

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I don't disagree, but it's not my light, so I can't remove the diffuser

still, I'm getting more light 20"+ below the canopy than with my 432w hot5

Yea what are yu using to measure the light with???

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Lmao oh eye c.... yea i kinda wished i had one of those parr meters but got a cheap lux meter and i do some basic conversions i know it cant possibly accurate 100% but gives me a baseline as to am i increasing or decreasing... and to see the lumen loss of the cheap chinese im going to get more multi and my first cob to test the output and the lumen loss over time im currently testing temp affects on lumen loss... waitting on my pistol grip temp meter from china post which will be key in measuring temp/lumen loss

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I so want to post pics, as the buds are fattening up before my eyes, but will wait until tomorrow

The diffusers aren't as they appear in the pics

They are quite clear, but have ribs on them, which causes some of the light to disperse in a wider pattern

I raised the 600 ~ 3" higher above the canopy

I also made a few adjustments to the bars

I slightly staggered every other bar (~ 1") to better blend the light from each bar over the canopy

I also moved the 6 bars a bit closer together making more light available to the inside buds

Pics tomorrow
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DIYKG,

You're Kushrookie, right? Wassup sir. If so, I'll email u.

PF,

If you move them closer together to boost the inside buds, the outer buds will suffer. This defeats the purpose of the adjustable bars ability to spread the coverage more evenly through out the canopy/footprint.

Regarding the ribs to disperse the light, this will be good for low-light intensive application for growing leafy crops like lettuce, but will reduce the intensity since it will change the angle of the light. I also thought the whole idea was to focus the light to achieve max. efficiency, and intensity needed for successful flowering. This is why different angle lens are used to control the amount of coverage and intensity needed per application. If you don't have the proper spectrum and intensity, the buds will end up being light, fluffy, cotton-balls. You need both, not one or the other only. This video from the guru himself confirms this logic. Granted it's kinda dated as he refers to the leds spectrum lacking orange, green, and intensity, the logic will always be applicable

You are making assumptions. I have positioned the bars for max light to the plants

The extreme outside of each plant is not as important as the majority of the buds, which are inside

No reason to be critical of the BML.

I do not see where the video has any meaning as it pertains to the SPYDR

It is a commercial horticulture product

Although it was not designed specifically for mj, it is adaptable with a few modifications

AND, you can choose your own spectrums for one bar, which is then multiplied x 6

Bars can be staggered as well as spread or pushed together for maximum coverage

Like cars (ie Toyota/Nissan...), a quality all around led light is more than adequate for most personal use growers

New pics shortly

I'm not trying to be critical of BML or the light itself, but the design as this is a new product/concept, and have just been released so there's plenty of room for improvements. If my assumption is incorrect, then u just clarified it, because I was only responding to your comment. It was never meant to put BML nor the Spyder down, as it was not the intention. As with any design, it has to run through it's course in order to work out the bugs. This is technology and it's progression and without our(market) feedbacks, any design flaws will be overlooked.

Sorry, I didn't want to kick the beaten dog about it's cover as it's been kicked the crap of, but merely responding to your statement bout the cover's grove.

As I stated before, this is a very good concept to offer the flexibility of adjusting the coverage and intensity to fit your particular application. We are the actual end-users that will put products thru the ringer and manufacturers will use our feedbacks to improve their products. Once the bugs have been worked out, they will definitely have a winner if it can deliver the intensity as stated.

The vid was to point out the importance of proper spectrum and intensity in relationship to the yield/quality, especially density. Anyone who has grown with leds knows how hard it is to get HPS density, which has plague this technology from the beginning and has been the HID's guys argument of their superiority over leds, along with yield.

One must also consider to some, including myself, airy buds is unexceptable and is considered a failure, be it from lighting, nutes, or whatever have you.

Like u and the rest of the people present, we are very curious of this new concept that took Illumitex's concept to the next level, and should be commended, accordingly. I also think the Spyder will do a lot better if u had a few more bars. I understand they do have a bigger model, but we are talking bout the subject unit u are testing.

You're right, these bar systems were designed for large-scale, multi-level, commercial farming application and have just recently been adapted for canna-specific application. The problem is our application demands a lot more intensity than the above mentioned commercial application.

Yes, I agree with your Toyota analogy, but in this case, density and yield are of concern. But then again, fluffy, airy buds makes just as good concentrates and other processed meds depending on the individual. Besides, it's always nice to make things perform better, especially if it's just a design issue that that be easily corrected or improvised. Practicality doesn't mean u have to compromise on everything, especially performance.

Again, all of my comments are not aimed nor intended to discredit the Spyder itself, but to point out possible design flaws that can be improved upon.

I'm also aware, and those who know me, that I tend to be very aggressive on wattage, intensity, and spectrum, because my idea of efficiency is getting as much as possible for the same amount of effort and resources invested, along with utmost quality. For this, I will refrain from any more comments out of respect for this product evaluation and attend this thread in a spectator capacity only. Some of us are happy growing plants, while others prefer to grow trees. I'm the latter.

In closing, I would like to commend BML on a great product and design concept, which just need a little tweaking, should be a winner.

Good luck with your grow and wish u the best, sir. Looking forward to the final results and pics.

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Monkey, you just repeat yourself. Please remove as there is nothing new that you haven't already said, or that we don't already know

Sit back and watch

3 full days under SPYDR

I unplugged the 2 side lights for these pics

The distance from the bottom of the bar to the first Cube cross bar is 20". As you can see light is penetrating well below that

Pics 1-2 BMM
3 Group Shot
4-5 Shorty

Good luck, sir. Monkey's gonna come down the tree and chill out a little, been up there for too long now. By the way, u are doing a great job of taking pictures and observations.

monkeychief said:

Good luck, sir. Monkey's gonna come down the tree and chill out a little, been up there for too long now. By the way, u are doing a great job of taking pictures and observations.

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Thanks Monkey

The next few weeks should be eye openers for the jackals

I am noticing a lot more heat from the top (back) side of SPYDR, which is 8" below where the hot5 currently is holding place- just in case

essentially, it is acting as a quasi top, but all four sides between the 2 are open, plenty of air flow potential

Today, I repositioned my fan so it blows across both the SPYDR and the top of the plants, but it is perpendicular to the SPYDR bars

I just emailed BML

Got a positive response from BML-

That means the heat sink is doing its job

Our fixture relies on conduction and convection to keep the LEDs operating at the target temperature. The fan will cool the LEDs, and this will increase your PAR levels.

PetFlora said:

Turns out the RH as not the problem I thought

The problem is the hygrometer

I have a second one so I put it in there as well. It reads ~ 60% RH which is fine

Buds look amazing

Got a post from MedMan, who provided the seeds. He started with Holey shit!

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FINE....during mid flower?!?!?

I really like the coverage of those bmls bars.. seriously i like the bars and they seem like they cover that area very well now i must agree with monkey that with new products we test they will continue to develop into a better option for canna-specific growers... thanks for making it happen... and too bad yu couldnt measure the temps and lumens... i noticed on my builds that there is a lumen drop if ran too hard

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PSUAGRO. said:

FINE....during mid flower?!?!?

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Yes, not too much of an issue I think as long as the air is kept moving around the plants to prevent bud mold setting in. Of course the conditions are not ideal but to me they do indicate that the plants are transpiring heavily so they are taking in water and food and directing it towards flower production.

PSUAGRO. said:

FINE....during mid flower?!?!?

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I turn the ac on several times a day to bring room temp down. This also reduces RH < 40%