Moisture back into your Bud

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
The problem I see with @Kingrow1 's system is that he believes that atmospheric humidity is a non-factor.
For real.....

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content

Here is a wiki link for the science so you can start educating your self.

Also only said a gazillion times that dried bud is between 10-15% moisture content when dried and ready. Higher humidities will push you towards 15% and lower towards 10%.

Its also not my system but i have put in the work to add the ACtUAl science so we dont have to argue but respect that a lot get it wrong and are wrong :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ask me the science - its freely available but try and divide it up not ask for everything in one go.

Bud needs to loose approx 75% of its moisture to be at a level where it is dry enough to smoke.

It will do this in high or low humidity since unless the air is saturated it will be able to loose moisture into the surrounding air and dry.

All this is the basis for most hang drying - think clothes, indoors hang a thin cotton shirt and observe it slowly dry and release moisture till it cant release no more and is dry.

Simple science although we can talk thermodynamics and energy exchange if you want to be anal.

So it takes approx up to a week to hang dry bud and also many other organic plant matter.

But it still taste of hay - the reason why is that bacteria and enzymes are still at work and take a few days longer to complete and stop. I dont want to be anal here - theres hundreds and optimize at different moisture levels and such but by two weeks hang drying we can be confident they are done.

We could also just simply make a joint and see if its dry and then done after enzymes and bac. have stopped - not a hard concept and many sample wine and such just like we do to see wtf exactly is happening in the microscopic world we cant easily see.

So ya the cure is just an extra step - bacteria and enzymes that work on dried buds moisture levels i.e. 10-15% take a long time to produce futher enzymatic change and bacterial breakdown hence why the cure needs a few months to produce change.

Curing is not needed, just hang drying long enough produces top shelf weed ready for sale or smoke - all who are good enough will tell you this and its well known to.many.

Are you suggesting you cant make dank ass smoke without curing? Stuff like this just singles you put as a greenie - weve debated and tested this many times and totally disproved it so dont be an arse and tell us different but rather work out why you cant do what we do and what your mistakes are :-)







Lots of posts yet you havent said anything cohesive, but you're wrong I'm right. And the majority here and on most sites believe in jarring their buds. Your method , not explained well, is to hang your buds till dry. Ok great, where is the science in that? And doing so does not get rid of the "hay " smell.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
ya the cure is just an extra step - bacteria and enzymes that work on dried buds moisture levels i.e. 10-15% take a long time to produce futher enzymatic change and bacterial breakdown hence why the cure needs a few months to produce change.

Curing is not needed, just hang drying long enough produces top shelf weed ready for sale or smoke - all who are good enough will tell you this and its well known to.many.
this "further enzymatic change" is what will break down chlorophyll so your smoke will be less like hay, less coarse/harsh and more unique in smell.
you actually can help this change by increasing temp & rH of the weed itself. That's cureing.
What you're doing is "hard dry".
 

Deketx

Well-Known Member
Ask me the science - its freely available but try and divide it up not ask for everything in one go.

Bud needs to loose approx 75% of its moisture to be at a level where it is dry enough to smoke.

It will do this in high or low humidity since unless the air is saturated it will be able to loose moisture into the surrounding air and dry.

All this is the basis for most hang drying - think clothes, indoors hang a thin cotton shirt and observe it slowly dry and release moisture till it cant release no more and is dry.

Simple science although we can talk thermodynamics and energy exchange if you want to be anal.

So it takes approx up to a week to hang dry bud and also many other organic plant matter.

But it still taste of hay - the reason why is that bacteria and enzymes are still at work and take a few days longer to complete and stop. I dont want to be anal here - theres hundreds and optimize at different moisture levels and such but by two weeks hang drying we can be confident they are done.

We could also just simply make a joint and see if its dry and then done after enzymes and bac. have stopped - not a hard concept and many sample wine and such just like we do to see wtf exactly is happening in the microscopic world we cant easily see.

So ya the cure is just an extra step - bacteria and enzymes that work on dried buds moisture levels i.e. 10-15% take a long time to produce futher enzymatic change and bacterial breakdown hence why the cure needs a few months to produce change.

Curing is not needed, just hang drying long enough produces top shelf weed ready for sale or smoke - all who are good enough will tell you this and its well known to.many.

Are you suggesting you cant make dank ass smoke without curing? Stuff like this just singles you put as a greenie - weve debated and tested this many times and totally disproved it so dont be an arse and tell us different but rather work out why you cant do what we do and what your mistakes are :-)
Pretty telling. You were doing great. Explaining your position, making some valid points, then you couldn't help yourself and had to come off like a dick by being condescending and insulting. Being right about drying weed seems a little too important to you.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
For real.....

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content

Here is a wiki link for the science so you can start educating your self.

Also only said a gazillion times that dried bud is between 10-15% moisture content when dried and ready. Higher humidities will push you towards 15% and lower towards 10%.

Its also not my system but i have put in the work to add the ACtUAl science so we dont have to argue but respect that a lot get it wrong and are wrong :-)
Guy, your link proves my point. The chart on the page you linked to clearly shows you can't get below 20% moisture content if you are in RH conditions above 80%. But somehow you think RH is a non-factor.



Another chart on the same page further illustrates this with different crops:

1574020693261.png

So, thank you for proving that your statement of RH being a non-factor as false.
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
The fan leaf trick is awesome and if you are worried about too much humidity during the process you can toss an integra boost pack in there with it.

I have remoistened many a pound by putting fresh fan leaves in a couple layers for about 12 hours. 6 or 8 large fans brings a pound up in rh% right nicely.
Man that fan leaf idea is awesome I'll have to try that I always use a little piece of corn tortilla
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
it's 75% of its total WEIGHT, and since water is much more heavy than the other plant material it will loose less moisture to come to this point.
Since my first science class most organic matter checks out at 10% solids and 90% water - us humans arent to far off either.

So assuming we loose 75% water (we all know dried bud is one quater the weight of wet right....) that leaves us the 10% solids and 15% moisture.

Clever right - now factor in equilibrium moisture content and we get a more precise number in bwtween 10-15%.

It all checks out :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Look dipsh!t that chart aint for cannabis but it proves the science behind what your presently debating. I actually went through a lot of data to adjust for cannabis and hence why my figure differ.

You completely miss the loint and the fact that other industries are so far up on this stuff they make you look like kindergarten.

Stop arguing and start getting on the same page - :-(




Guy, your link proves my point. The chart on the page you linked to clearly shows you can't get below 20% moisture content if you are in RH conditions above 80%. But somehow you think RH is a non-factor.



Another chart on the same page further illustrates this with different crops:

View attachment 4422474

So, thank you for proving that your statement of RH being a non-factor as false.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
The industry and trolls who spread all the hateful dry cure info that sees so much bud killed here are the dicks.

Still dreaming of boveda i guess :-)


Pretty telling. You were doing great. Explaining your position, making some valid points, then you couldn't help yourself and had to come off like a dick by being condescending and insulting. Being right about drying weed seems a little too important to you.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Ask me the science
Lol

We could also just simply make a joint and see if its dry and then done after enzymes and bac. have stopped - not a hard concept and many sample wine and such just like we do to see wtf exactly is happening in the microscopic world we cant easily see.
What!?
Smoke joint after dry to determine if cure is done? They are different things.

Since my first science class most organic matter checks out at 10% solids and 90% water - us humans arent to far off either.

So assuming we loose 75% water (we all know dried bud is one quater the weight of wet right....) that leaves us the 10% solids and 15% moisture
What!?


If you dropped 75% weight, then 25% weight is remaining. Of that 25%, ideally 10-15% is water, 85%-90% is plant.


15% MC of 25% total weight
=
3.75% of total weight remains as water.


85% plant of 25% weight
=
21.25% of total weight is plant (or as you say, solids)


Maybe look up what "organic matter" really means sometime.


other industries are so far up on this stuff they make you look like kindergarten.

Stop arguing and start getting on the same page
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
How do the grow ops that supply the dispensaries dry and cure ? Their curing a shit ton and doing it fast to get to the dispensaries for quick turn around .
They go off of water activity. They use a water activity meter to drop down to ~0.8 (if I remember correctly) asap and then slowly drop to 0.6 over the next week or so. 0.6 is a common industry storage standard. They reduce water activity fast so bacteria and mold are less likely to propagate, and then hold a water activity level beneficial to enzyme action while staying under mold or "rotting" water activity levels. I heard a podcast with a research scientist explaining this but can't remember where or which one. I think it was a Kiss Organics podcast and highly recommend checking out (maybe the Dr. Allison Justice epi?).


Water activity is more precise than a stem snap test or solely depending on an arbitrary time duration. Water activity provides easily attainable consistency to an inexperienced person, but the meters are $$$. Its what's utilized in the food industry, jerky ect.

Generic water activity isotherm...
Water-Activity-for-product-safety-and-quality-figure-1.JPG
 
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PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Look dipsh!t that chart aint for cannabis but it proves the science behind what your presently debating. I actually went through a lot of data to adjust for cannabis and hence why my figure differ.

You completely miss the loint and the fact that other industries are so far up on this stuff they make you look like kindergarten.

Stop arguing and start getting on the same page - :-(
Why are you calling me a dipshit, are you really that immature? Can't have a reasonable debate without degrading to 6-year old tactics? Who looks like they are in kindergarten exactly? Grow the fuck up dude.

Whatever you want to believe, I have real world experience in my specific region, as do others in their regions. I can assure you that RH is absolutely an issue for many when it comes to proper dry and cure.

Get on the same page? Who's page? Your page? Sorry guy, but your page doesn't work for me. Simple reality is sometimes we do need to artificially control the grow/dry/cure environments for best results. If you don't need to do so in your case, then lucky you, but your reality isn't everyone else's reality.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
In conclusion, based on the chart @Kingrow1 was so kind to link us to, we can clearly see that the ideal range to store most dry crops between 10% to 15% total moisture content is in environments between 40 and 60 RH, so if we are outside of that range, environmental control would be a good idea:

1574043944460.png
 

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
Big factor for me. It's 35% here right now, what do you do with that? I went direct into the bags where the rh is 45% right now. Best I can do without artificially upping the rh with the moisture balls I use in my humidor. They do hold my humidor at 70%, but I'm afraid I might do more harm than good.
Good move, you have to adjust your technique to your conditions. If you can't get a room in the ideal range of 50-55% rh then you need to slow the dry down somehow. Paper grocery bags are very forgiving and pretty hard to sweat your weed.

My rh just recently dropped to 40% for the first time in many months. I'm glad my dehueys can take a break but my buds are drying too fast. One plant got quick dried on me and the outside was very crumbly and the inside was still very wet. Sugar leaves that usually fall off to the touch were still clinging hard to the stem. This condition sucks and is probably why some people don't like dry trimming. This isn't the correct way t dry trim. The dry needs to be slow and steady so the bud moisture can equalize at the same rate it is drying. This is most likely how most people ended up agreeing that 50-55% is the ideal rh and 1-2 weeks is the ideal time frame. With 40% humidity a person like me would have to limit some airflow or dry in a smaller room or buy a dam humidifier to eliminate the quick dry effect that I despise so much.

In my 40 years of growing weed, whenever I put weed that seems dry in a zip lock bag (the 70's) too soon and the weed got wet, the smell was gone forever. Me experiments with jarring have given me the same results. If I put some buds in a jar and it gets wet before I check it again, the smell will be gone. It could be in as little as 4 hours. It's no surprise to me that there are so many threads abut hay smelling weed or weed with no smell. It ain't hard to do.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Last time - the chart is not for marijuana and figures not accurate for our dry....


In conclusion, based on the chart @Kingrow1 was so kind to link us to, we can clearly see that the ideal range to store most dry crops between 10% to 15% total moisture content is in environments between 40 and 60 RH, so if we are outside of that range, environmental control would be a good idea:

View attachment 4422643
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
You smoke to know uts dry nothing said about the cure.

Dried bud is 10% solids and between 10-15% moisture - im not the one that needs to check whar organic matter is :-)


Lol


What!?
Smoke joint after dry to determine if cure is done? They are different things.


What!?


If you dropped 75% weight, then 25% weight is remaining. Of that 25%, ideally 10-15% is water, 85%-90% is plant.


15% MC of 25% total weight
=
3.75% of total weight remains as water.


85% plant of 25% weight
=
21.25% of total weight is plant (or as you say, solids)


Maybe look up what "organic matter" really means sometime.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Long thread but feel most are starting to see the real science to drying and curing - sorry boveda :-)
 
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