chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
again, I refer you to the question from page 2
Molasses question?
- Thread starter goldenbudzz
- Start date
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
just like you and your asbestos bullshit
hyroot
Well-Known Member
wow I feel sorry for you. You just attack with rhetoric
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
still waiting for either one of you to answer my question, or do you want to make shit up. I want sugar in my fruits, I don't want it in my buds, your link is about fruit
Abstract The development and maturation of tomato fruits
Fruits are not only colourful and flavoursome components of human and animal diets, but they are also an important source of minerals, vitamins, fibres, and antioxidants in food and animal feed.
Abstract The development and maturation of tomato fruits
Fruits are not only colourful and flavoursome components of human and animal diets, but they are also an important source of minerals, vitamins, fibres, and antioxidants in food and animal feed.
daedalux
Well-Known Member
I thought you left this site. You are pretty talkative for someone who isn't here.
Clearly answered my ass. And what is this we shit? You don't speak for everyone here.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
Ok hyroot, you win, I'm gonna go foliar feed my weed some sugar water, just take the sugar right to the plant for great tasting weed.
giggles26
Well-Known Member
Wanna know the benefits of using molasses?
1. Food for organisms in your soil
2. Help structure of soil
3. Help moisture retention
4. Good source of nutrients
5. Macro & micro nutrients
6. Help fight off pathogens
7. Excellent soil amendment
8. Sulfur & potash
9. Trace elements
10. Chelating agent(which will allow some fertilizers to become easily available for plants and microherds)
11. Contains iron
It's a "magic" substance and it's a great arsenal in any organic gardeners life.
Same goes for alfalfa teas. Mix the two and your plants will love you.
1. Food for organisms in your soil
2. Help structure of soil
3. Help moisture retention
4. Good source of nutrients
5. Macro & micro nutrients
6. Help fight off pathogens
7. Excellent soil amendment
8. Sulfur & potash
9. Trace elements
10. Chelating agent(which will allow some fertilizers to become easily available for plants and microherds)
11. Contains iron
It's a "magic" substance and it's a great arsenal in any organic gardeners life.
Same goes for alfalfa teas. Mix the two and your plants will love you.
giggles26
Well-Known Member
You realize molasses is much more then sugar right? You wanna know why I use molasses then refer to my previous post. There are many reasons to use it. You joke about foliar feeding but that's another thing you can use 1 tablespoon of molasses per gallon of water and use it as a spray to fix a potassium deficiency and trace elements.
What else would you like me to answer..
BarnBuster
Virtually Unknown Member
"Hazy Lady" from IC Mag does a quality side by side grow comparison in a well thought out and documented experiment. The entire thread is worth a read
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=136037
her conclusions are summed up in post #587
"Conclusions side by side............... A lot of this regulars will know/have read some of this, so for anyone else jumping to the end, I will be repeating myself a little.
Group A - Control
Group B - Canna Boost
Group C - Molasses
Group D - Canna Boost & Molasses
Best Yielding
1, Group B - Canna Boost
2, Group D - Canna Boost & Molasses
3, Group C - Molasses
4, Group A - Control
Best Bud,- best scent/taste/smoke.
1, Group D
2, Group B
3, Group C
4, Group A
So finally.....................
There really is quite a difference in the Boost fed buds smell and taste, however, if this was the only improvement I think the cheaper Molasses would produce different but equally improved flowers, on this occasion on the sweet side I couldn't say if this is always the case with Molasses, If you want to improve the yield and the taste it looks like Boost is the way to go. ( or a.n.other Booster)
I believe a blend of the two, Booster & Molasses really could work wonders. I am sure 17% is the least you should expect and as I said I am using 1/2 recommend doses, you could get a lot more?"
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=136037
her conclusions are summed up in post #587
"Conclusions side by side............... A lot of this regulars will know/have read some of this, so for anyone else jumping to the end, I will be repeating myself a little.
Group A - Control
Group B - Canna Boost
Group C - Molasses
Group D - Canna Boost & Molasses
Best Yielding
1, Group B - Canna Boost
2, Group D - Canna Boost & Molasses
3, Group C - Molasses
4, Group A - Control
Best Bud,- best scent/taste/smoke.
1, Group D
2, Group B
3, Group C
4, Group A
So finally.....................
There really is quite a difference in the Boost fed buds smell and taste, however, if this was the only improvement I think the cheaper Molasses would produce different but equally improved flowers, on this occasion on the sweet side I couldn't say if this is always the case with Molasses, If you want to improve the yield and the taste it looks like Boost is the way to go. ( or a.n.other Booster)
I believe a blend of the two, Booster & Molasses really could work wonders. I am sure 17% is the least you should expect and as I said I am using 1/2 recommend doses, you could get a lot more?"
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
well, there it is, If HAZY LADY says molasses is awesome, then it must be so, because HAZY LADY says so and she smoked buds that used it and they tasted better.
wow, you guys sure proved me wrong. Molasses is a magic bullet, gotta go run and get some, thanks guys,lol
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
Does it Make Sense to Add Molasses?
I’ll save you the trouble of skipping to the end of this post–the answer is NO!
Understanding why the answer is no will help you understand your garden. Let’s have a look. In a normal garden, or compost pile, you have a large variety of microbes, all going about their daily lives. They find something to eat, they poop, and they die. This is a continual process that goes on a billion times a second.
Microbes are opportunistic in that their populations will increase and decrease as the conditions change. Let’s assume you have not been doing too much in the garden so conditions are not changing. In that case the microbe populations remain steady. Things are chugging along at a normal pace and everybody is happy.
Now you dump a lot of molasses on the garden. Instantly, microbes sense the extra food and they start to multiply. Bacteria can divide (ie double the population) every 20 minutes. The population explodes very quickly. All those bacteria need to eat, and they quickly consume the molasses you added. As the food source runs out there is a massive famine and most of the bacteria die.
What has the molasses accomplished?
Not much. It is true that all of the dead bacteria go on to feed other microbes, and they help build soil structure. The minerals in the molasses stay in the soil and plants can use them, but your soil probably had enough calcium and iron before you added the molasses. The vitamins in molasses are of no value to plants.
Is the massive population explosion good for your plants? I don’t think anyone knows, but most things in nature are better off without massive changes, and plant roots depend very much on the population of microbes around their roots. I just can’t believe a bacteria population explosion is good for the plants.
Molasses might make your compost pile work quicker, but the first rain, or your hose, will wash the sugars out of the pile removing any benefits.
Do You Need to Feed the Microbes?
The reason for adding molasses is to feed the microbes, so it is important to ask, “Should the gardener feed the microbes?” The answer is a resounding YES! However, there are many ways to do this. Adding compost, wood chips or other organic matter as a mulch is the best way. This provides a slow, steady release of food for the microbes.
Molasses is a product that we can use to feed people and animals. I’d rather eat gingerbread cookies than compost and wood chips. From an environmental point of view it makes more sense to put non-edible organic matter in the garden and keep the food in the fridge.
There is no “magic” in molasses. It’s just another source of organic matter that will be decomposed in the garden. All organic matter contains carbohydrates, sugars, minerals and vitamins, just like molasses. Don’t believe me …… consider the fact that molasses is made from plants; sugar cane or sugar beets.
I’ll save you the trouble of skipping to the end of this post–the answer is NO!
Understanding why the answer is no will help you understand your garden. Let’s have a look. In a normal garden, or compost pile, you have a large variety of microbes, all going about their daily lives. They find something to eat, they poop, and they die. This is a continual process that goes on a billion times a second.
Microbes are opportunistic in that their populations will increase and decrease as the conditions change. Let’s assume you have not been doing too much in the garden so conditions are not changing. In that case the microbe populations remain steady. Things are chugging along at a normal pace and everybody is happy.
Now you dump a lot of molasses on the garden. Instantly, microbes sense the extra food and they start to multiply. Bacteria can divide (ie double the population) every 20 minutes. The population explodes very quickly. All those bacteria need to eat, and they quickly consume the molasses you added. As the food source runs out there is a massive famine and most of the bacteria die.
What has the molasses accomplished?
Not much. It is true that all of the dead bacteria go on to feed other microbes, and they help build soil structure. The minerals in the molasses stay in the soil and plants can use them, but your soil probably had enough calcium and iron before you added the molasses. The vitamins in molasses are of no value to plants.
Is the massive population explosion good for your plants? I don’t think anyone knows, but most things in nature are better off without massive changes, and plant roots depend very much on the population of microbes around their roots. I just can’t believe a bacteria population explosion is good for the plants.
Molasses might make your compost pile work quicker, but the first rain, or your hose, will wash the sugars out of the pile removing any benefits.
Do You Need to Feed the Microbes?
The reason for adding molasses is to feed the microbes, so it is important to ask, “Should the gardener feed the microbes?” The answer is a resounding YES! However, there are many ways to do this. Adding compost, wood chips or other organic matter as a mulch is the best way. This provides a slow, steady release of food for the microbes.
Molasses is a product that we can use to feed people and animals. I’d rather eat gingerbread cookies than compost and wood chips. From an environmental point of view it makes more sense to put non-edible organic matter in the garden and keep the food in the fridge.
There is no “magic” in molasses. It’s just another source of organic matter that will be decomposed in the garden. All organic matter contains carbohydrates, sugars, minerals and vitamins, just like molasses. Don’t believe me …… consider the fact that molasses is made from plants; sugar cane or sugar beets.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
(http://blogs.extension.org/gardenprofessors/category/amusing-facts/). I had never heard of using molasses in the yard, so I was intrigued.
Many online sites that offer soil-building and homemade pesticide solutions tout the advantages of using “horticultural molasses” in the yard. Horticulture professor Chalker-Scott doesn’t know what horticulture molasses is. Sites claim molasses builds up the microbes in the soil; works as a chelate for converting nutrients to more usable forms for plants; improves the flavor and sweetness of veggies and fruits; and controls insects and weeds. It sounds like a horticultural miracle cure. Products available at garden centers tempt the unknowing and the ever hopeful who want a silver bullet for soil health and pest control. Dr. Chalker-Scott calls it a “typical snake-oil pitch!”
Her numerous blog posts debunk many of the molasses myths. She heartily disputes the claim that “molasses raises the sugar content of plants” saying “this bold statement has no basis in reality.” Sugar can’t get through the protective outer surface (cuticle) of the plant, except by possibly going through the pores in the leaf surface (stomata). Even then, the amount that might penetrate is too small to have any impact. There is no scientific evidence that it makes fruit sweeter. No research supports the claim that molasses makes nutrients more available to plants. While she discredits those claims, she does state that soil microbes will increase when exposed to simple sugars, such as those in molasses, because “microbes love carbohydrates.” This supports the possibility that molasses may help soil in that regard. However, field applications don’t provide much evidence.
“The insecticidal claims are nonsense,” she writes; although molasses can work as bait for poison. Chalker-Scott rails against online sites that support spraying molasses on the entire yard with abandon, since it must be safe. She calls this “one of the most reckless pieces of advice she has ever read.” If molasses kills anything, it is a pesticide; and it is never wise to apply a pesticide carelessly. There is some evidence that too much molasses binds up calcium in soils. This can help weeds thrive. Molasses may also burn plants.
Before you try unusual pesticides and magic potions, whether homemade or purchased, determine if the claims made about them are accurate and backed with scientific evidence.
JoAnne Skelly is the Carson City/Storey County Extension educator for University of Nevada Cooperative Extension and may be reached at [email protected] or 887-2252.
Many online sites that offer soil-building and homemade pesticide solutions tout the advantages of using “horticultural molasses” in the yard. Horticulture professor Chalker-Scott doesn’t know what horticulture molasses is. Sites claim molasses builds up the microbes in the soil; works as a chelate for converting nutrients to more usable forms for plants; improves the flavor and sweetness of veggies and fruits; and controls insects and weeds. It sounds like a horticultural miracle cure. Products available at garden centers tempt the unknowing and the ever hopeful who want a silver bullet for soil health and pest control. Dr. Chalker-Scott calls it a “typical snake-oil pitch!”
Her numerous blog posts debunk many of the molasses myths. She heartily disputes the claim that “molasses raises the sugar content of plants” saying “this bold statement has no basis in reality.” Sugar can’t get through the protective outer surface (cuticle) of the plant, except by possibly going through the pores in the leaf surface (stomata). Even then, the amount that might penetrate is too small to have any impact. There is no scientific evidence that it makes fruit sweeter. No research supports the claim that molasses makes nutrients more available to plants. While she discredits those claims, she does state that soil microbes will increase when exposed to simple sugars, such as those in molasses, because “microbes love carbohydrates.” This supports the possibility that molasses may help soil in that regard. However, field applications don’t provide much evidence.
“The insecticidal claims are nonsense,” she writes; although molasses can work as bait for poison. Chalker-Scott rails against online sites that support spraying molasses on the entire yard with abandon, since it must be safe. She calls this “one of the most reckless pieces of advice she has ever read.” If molasses kills anything, it is a pesticide; and it is never wise to apply a pesticide carelessly. There is some evidence that too much molasses binds up calcium in soils. This can help weeds thrive. Molasses may also burn plants.
Before you try unusual pesticides and magic potions, whether homemade or purchased, determine if the claims made about them are accurate and backed with scientific evidence.
JoAnne Skelly is the Carson City/Storey County Extension educator for University of Nevada Cooperative Extension and may be reached at [email protected] or 887-2252.
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chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
some more
The Myth of Compost Tea: "Aerobically-brewed compost tea suppresses disease and is an effective alternative to traditional pesticides" The Bottom Line Properly composted organic material makes a wonderful mulch. Non-aerated compost teas may be useful in suppressing some pathogens on some plants. Aerated compost teas have no scientifically documented effect as pathogen suppressors. Overuse and runoff of compost teas could conceivably contribute to water pollution. Aerated compost tea (ACT) use for disease control continues to lack scientific credentials. There is no documented science supporting the use of ACT on turf and landscape materials. ACT is not registered as a pesticide and cannot legally be recommended or applied as one. “It is very difficult to do a microbial pesticide risk assessment on a mixture of unidentified microorganisms that could easily contain human and nontarget organism pathogens. Aerated compost teas that have been “enhanced” with molasses, kelp, and other high- nutrient additives have been documented through scientific research to contain E. coli and Salmonella populations, both of which are human pathogens. There is a rapidly growing, compost tea industry that continues to downplay the lack of reputable science behind the product.
THE MYTH OF ORGANIC MATTER: “Healthy soil has high organic content” The Bottom Line Ideal soils, from a fertility standpoint, are generally defined as containing no more than 5% OM by weight or 10% by volume. Before you add organic amendments to your garden, have your soil tested to determine its OM content and nutrient levels. Be conservative with organic amendments; add only what is necessary to correct deficiencies and maintain OM at ideal levels. Do not incorporate organic amendments into landscapes destined for permanent installations; topdress with mulch instead. Abnormally high levels of nutrients can have negative effects on plant and soil health. Any nutrients not immediately utilized by microbes or plants contribute to non-point source pollution
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/benton/sites/default/files/garden_myth.pdf
The Myth of Compost Tea: "Aerobically-brewed compost tea suppresses disease and is an effective alternative to traditional pesticides" The Bottom Line Properly composted organic material makes a wonderful mulch. Non-aerated compost teas may be useful in suppressing some pathogens on some plants. Aerated compost teas have no scientifically documented effect as pathogen suppressors. Overuse and runoff of compost teas could conceivably contribute to water pollution. Aerated compost tea (ACT) use for disease control continues to lack scientific credentials. There is no documented science supporting the use of ACT on turf and landscape materials. ACT is not registered as a pesticide and cannot legally be recommended or applied as one. “It is very difficult to do a microbial pesticide risk assessment on a mixture of unidentified microorganisms that could easily contain human and nontarget organism pathogens. Aerated compost teas that have been “enhanced” with molasses, kelp, and other high- nutrient additives have been documented through scientific research to contain E. coli and Salmonella populations, both of which are human pathogens. There is a rapidly growing, compost tea industry that continues to downplay the lack of reputable science behind the product.
THE MYTH OF ORGANIC MATTER: “Healthy soil has high organic content” The Bottom Line Ideal soils, from a fertility standpoint, are generally defined as containing no more than 5% OM by weight or 10% by volume. Before you add organic amendments to your garden, have your soil tested to determine its OM content and nutrient levels. Be conservative with organic amendments; add only what is necessary to correct deficiencies and maintain OM at ideal levels. Do not incorporate organic amendments into landscapes destined for permanent installations; topdress with mulch instead. Abnormally high levels of nutrients can have negative effects on plant and soil health. Any nutrients not immediately utilized by microbes or plants contribute to non-point source pollution
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/benton/sites/default/files/garden_myth.pdf
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
THE MYTH OF ABSOLUTE SCIENCE: “If it’s published, it must be true” When any of the following are ‘part’ of an article or book, it should be a red flag when evaluating the validity of a source 1) When no scientific rationale or hypothesis presented. 2) Authorities in unrelated fields are cited to give the appearance of legitimacy to the experiments 3) Various claims are footnoted and referenced, but they are not relevant to the subject or are not scientifically valid sources. 4) The author anthropomorphizes; in other words, the author use human comparisons to the subject in terms of having “likes and dislikes, their feelings and idiosyncrasies.” 5) The author claims that “beyond a doubt the phenomenon itself has been proven.” Science does not “prove” any hypotheses: it either disproves or supports a set of assumptions. This is why science is constantly changing, as old hypotheses are discarded or amended as we learn more about the natural world. 6) The number of replicates is small and not sufficient for statistical analysis. No statistically valid information is provided. 7) The experimental design is poor and does not maintain factors at consistent levels. 
The book is published by a company that does not specialize in science. 9) The research itself was never published in a peer-reviewed journal, nor has any replication of the work appeared in this body of literature.
The book is published by a company that does not specialize in science. 9) The research itself was never published in a peer-reviewed journal, nor has any replication of the work appeared in this body of literature.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
REFERENCES: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University For more information, see Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com. Linda Chalker-Scott. The Informed Gardener.2008. ISBN 9780295987903. University of Washington Press. Jeff Gillman, Meleah Maynard. “Decoding Gardening Advice” The sciene behind the 100 most common recommendations. 2012. ISBN 978-1-60469-220-4. Timber Press Garden Professors: Sccience-based gardening information. lExtension America’s Research-based Learning Network} http://blogs.extension.org/gardenprofessors/
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
I only have a shitty camera phone, but here is what's in the cupboard,I call it no molasses OG
