My organic super soil

I made a super soil recipe .I've made it for my garden at home in a smaller batch for my tobacco but this time it's fo realz. Anyway I just wanted some feed back for additions or redunduncies. I want the most diverse but least impacting and organic. And I want it to be only compost tea (aact) fed with the a portion of the ingredients for the mix itself. Btw I'm attempting to make 180 gallons (10gal 18 pots)
-3bags of 3c.f. Of peat moss
-30gallons coco
-30 compost*
-1bag of 4c.f. Perlite
-1c.f. Biochar*
-18lbs (20gal) rice hulls
-2 5gallon bags worm castings*
-10lbs fish bone meal
-10lbs fish meal
-5lbs sea bird guano (1-10-0)
-2lbs rock phosphate (0-3-0)
-1lbs basalt*
-1/2 cup azomite
-1lbs gymsum
-1/2 cup dolomite lime
-1/2 cup Epsom
-4tbsp humic acid*
-1lbs crab meal*
-1lbs alfalfa meal*
-1lbs oyster*
-1lbs kelp meal*
-1lbs greensand
-1/2lbs langbeinite
-1lbs neem seed meal*
-1lbs karanja meal*
-1lbs organic rice
-1lbs organic oats
-1lbs organic flour
*= parts of compost tea just at smaller quantities. Plus
Molassas
Agmino by down to earth
Recharge brand mycorrhizae

swiftkillpapa said:

I made a super soil recipe .I've made it for my garden at home in a smaller batch for my tobacco but this time it's fo realz. Anyway I just wanted some feed back for additions or redunduncies. I want the most diverse but least impacting and organic. And I want it to be only compost tea (aact) fed with the a portion of the ingredients for the mix itself. Btw I'm attempting to make 180 gallons (10gal 18 pots)
-3bags of 3c.f. Of peat moss
-30gallons coco
-30 compost*
-1bag of 4c.f. Perlite
-1c.f. Biochar*
-18lbs (20gal) rice hulls
-2 5gallon bags worm castings*
-10lbs fish bone meal
-10lbs fish meal
-5lbs sea bird guano (1-10-0)
-2lbs rock phosphate (0-3-0)
-1lbs basalt*
-1/2 cup azomite
-1lbs gymsum
-1/2 cup dolomite lime
-1/2 cup Epsom
-4tbsp humic acid*
-1lbs crab meal*
-1lbs alfalfa meal*
-1lbs oyster*
-1lbs kelp meal*
-1lbs greensand
-1/2lbs langbeinite
-1lbs neem seed meal*
-1lbs karanja meal*
-1lbs organic rice
-1lbs organic oats
-1lbs organic flour
*= parts of compost tea just at smaller quantities. Plus
Molassas
Agmino by down to earth
Recharge brand mycorrhizae

Click to expand...

hard to give advice on your measurements, most do it by cups.
Seems a lil rich though...

You definitely will need to cook it for one to two months prior i believe.

The lbs are based on 3 cups per pound. With crab meal alfalfa being more like 4 per.

ThaProdiG said:

You definitely will need to cook it for one to two months prior i believe.

Click to expand...

I went on the double subcools bc his is about 100 gallons mine's double that. Tbh I'm worried it's not enough

swiftkillpapa said:

The lbs are based on 3 cups per pound. With crab meal alfalfa being more like 4 per.

I went on the double subcools bc his is about 100 gallons mine's double that. Tbh I'm worried it's not enough

Click to expand...

ok, so ya got a lil over 26 cubic feet.
so typically you go with 4 cups of amendments per cubic foot, so that puts you at 104 cups.
by your math that'd be 10lbs of nutrients.
That's why I said it's a bit rich, plus with coco as your media, don't really need dolomite

Drop the Coco and use only the Canadian peat!

The "base" should be better balanced. Like if your doing 3cf of Peat, you should be 3cf each of perlite and EWC, maybe half that for compost...

You have perlite, why rice hulls?

Dolomite is too high in Mg. I use crushed Oyster shell 1/2c and Dried crushed eggshell 1/2c - for you - maybe 3/4c crushed per 1.5 cf.

Rice, oats, and flour....why? Making mud pies? That will make the soil too sticky and will begin to rot,,,,might do good way down the road but, you really don't need those!

Fishbone meal and High P Seabird guano? Too high a P in your future for Cannabis. For sure with the other P sources on the list....Change to a high N Bat or bird......Find some long term N too Comfrey works nice for P and N too.

Soft rock over rock phosphate. Slower uptake you want, SRO will do it...maybe use both, 2/3 to 1/3.

Gypsum - yup good stuff! Need more like 3-4 cups per 1.5 cf go with 3

Humics? READ THIS http://www.bioag.com/educationandresources.html

I really don't have the time right now to convert your amounts. Lets say it sounds heavy on some and light on others...

Teas with all those goodies you list as in it will be way strong in nutrients...How much and how would you ratio the tea to water for use?

Anyway, here's something you might like - click on this ;
N-P-K Value of Everything

Doc

I don,t mean to hijack Just wondering why drop the coco?

docter said:

I don,t mean to hijack Just wondering why drop the coco?

Click to expand...

Because peat has a higher cation exchange and studies have shown that it grows better and stronger than coco. The difference is specifically environmental. Coco is renewable bc it's a byproduct of an industry that didn't kill the trees it grows for coconuts so they slays have some. As for peat moss it's like cutting down a forest for paper. It doesn't grow back nearly as fast as we use it. O and coco has high residual salts.

Dr. Who said:

Drop the Coco and use only the Canadian peat!

The "base" should be better balanced. Like if your doing 3cf of Peat, you should be 3cf each of perlite and EWC, maybe half that for compost...

You have perlite, why rice hulls?

Dolomite is too high in Mg. I use crushed Oyster shell 1/2c and Dried crushed eggshell 1/2c - for you - maybe 3/4c crushed per 1.5 cf.

Rice, oats, and flour....why? Making mud pies? That will make the soil too sticky and will begin to rot,,,,might do good way down the road but, you really don't need those!

Fishbone meal and High P Seabird guano? Too high a P in your future for Cannabis. For sure with the other P sources on the list....Change to a high N Bat or bird......Find some long term N too Comfrey works nice for P and N too.

Soft rock over rock phosphate. Slower uptake you want, SRO will do it...maybe use both, 2/3 to 1/3.

Gypsum - yup good stuff! Need more like 3-4 cups per 1.5 cf go with 3

Humics? READ THIS http://www.bioag.com/educationandresources.html

I really don't have the time right now to convert your amounts. Lets say it sounds heavy on some and light on others...

Teas with all those goodies you list as in it will be way strong in nutrients...How much and how would you ratio the tea to water for use?

Anyway, here's something you might like - click on this ;
N-P-K Value of Everything

Doc

Click to expand...

That link at the end is the greatest thing anyone has ever shown me. As for everything else I'll try to explain.
First I'll address the flour rice and oats. Those are specifically for fungal feed while I let it sit and compost. If all goes well they'll supply food for spores and enhance colonies.
Rice hulls are used like Petite but better because it'll breakdown over years if I move it to a raised bed. They supply silica and the feed bacteria.
I just cut out the dolomite and Epsom salt.
So a problem with SRP is it's not being mined atm. Because both major quarries Cali and Florida got flooded so mining stopped. I used granulated rock phosphate in hopes it will be available when the bud needs to boom.
Addressing the if I have perlite why have rice hulls or vice versa. Mostly to make sure I filled the amount of volume needed. I got about 18 lbs of rice hulls it was like Idk 2 cubic feet.
I'm kinda scattered with my thoughts so sorry about the skipping and not addressing in order.
I didn't really want to do guano at all but I went with a seabird bc again more environmentally friendly our so I'm told. I just wanted the bacteria from it but the P isn't bad either.
As for my teas I use this stuff called recharge for my mycorrhizae and then I eye ball the shit out of everything. I use more of kelp and alfalfa in that ratio but it's more how much water and how much I'll be watering it down after decides the amount I put in. Yeah I eye ball it. Scientific I know.
I did wanna use more ewc but what need to do at home is figure out a way to separate the castings bc shits so pricey.
And compost is free in san Diego bc the dump make it out of by products from restaurants. And they cook it at about 180 in the piles so make sure it's germ free. It's actually really solid as far as what I've seen in my veggie patch at home.
But doc it means a lot to have your input I see you around giving solid advice and I'll let you know how it turns out when I start moving the plants into it. Also I would love to hear what you think I should tone down and bulk up.

I see people go back and forth on the coco peat thing it seems to be a polarizing topic. Earth Recharge seems to be well favored I have been personally wanting to try the stuff. Are you using to oats for fungi? Whats the dealio with the flour? Again I mean no disrespect to anyone thanks.

swiftkillpapa said:

Because peat has a higher cation exchange and studies have shown that it grows better and stronger than coco. The difference is specifically environmental. Coco is renewable bc it's a byproduct of an industry that didn't kill the trees it grows for coconuts so they slays have some. As for peat moss it's like cutting down a forest for paper. It doesn't grow back nearly as fast as we use it. O and coco has high residual salts.


That link at the end is the greatest thing anyone has ever shown me. As for everything else I'll try to explain.
First I'll address the flour rice and oats. Those are specifically for fungal feed while I let it sit and compost. If all goes well they'll supply food for spores and enhance colonies.
Rice hulls are used like Petite but better because it'll breakdown over years if I move it to a raised bed. They supply silica and the feed bacteria.
I just cut out the dolomite and Epsom salt.
So a problem with SRP is it's not being mined atm. Because both major quarries Cali and Florida got flooded so mining stopped. I used granulated rock phosphate in hopes it will be available when the bud needs to boom.
Addressing the if I have perlite why have rice hulls or vice versa. Mostly to make sure I filled the amount of volume needed. I got about 18 lbs of rice hulls it was like Idk 2 cubic feet.
I'm kinda scattered with my thoughts so sorry about the skipping and not addressing in order.
I didn't really want to do guano at all but I went with a seabird bc again more environmentally friendly our so I'm told. I just wanted the bacteria from it but the P isn't bad either.
As for my teas I use this stuff called recharge for my mycorrhizae and then I eye ball the shit out of everything. I use more of kelp and alfalfa in that ratio but it's more how much water and how much I'll be watering it down after decides the amount I put in. Yeah I eye ball it. Scientific I know.
I did wanna use more ewc but what need to do at home is figure out a way to separate the castings bc shits so pricey.
And compost is free in san Diego bc the dump make it out of by products from restaurants. And they cook it at about 180 in the piles so make sure it's germ free. It's actually really solid as far as what I've seen in my veggie patch at home.
But doc it means a lot to have your input I see you around giving solid advice and I'll let you know how it turns out when I start moving the plants into it. Also I would love to hear what you think I should tone down and bulk up.

Click to expand...

Looks pretty good really.
I just don't like grains and grain flours for container soils.....to easy for over watering and rot to start....Causes anaerobic condition. Easy to happen in container soil and is really a long term thing....Great for outdoor soil building....
You should be fine with the rock Phos....I just like to use some SRP.....Organics can be a real personal choice thing on what you use,,,,in reality, do what makes you comfortable!!

As far as peat goes. That's one I will not flip on for me.....I have never really liked Coco....My choice.

Rice hulls - no problem if you have them around. Simply remember to amend with more perlite or Lavastone as they degrade/compost....down the road as you reuse/recharge the soil for the next run(s). I actually like to use them for single use container soil that I then spread in the veggie patch.....

A brief word on greensand. That is another natural mined substance that is s-l-o-w to renew....I like Azomite when I have my druthers.....Same amounts basically.

I do add a myco's brand high on the fungal side - again, personal choice. I do have a lot going on bio wise with what I do use anyway but, well,,I use less then they say and really like my results....along with an occasional bio tea for a kicker now and then.

Doc.

docter said:

I see people go back and forth on the coco peat thing it seems to be a polarizing topic. Earth Recharge seems to be well favored I have been personally wanting to try the stuff. Are you using to oats for fungi? Whats the dealio with the flour? Again I mean no disrespect to anyone thanks.

Click to expand...

Grains, whether whole or ground tend to hold moisture and can lead to too much wetness and cause rot....This will bring on a soil anaerobic condition that is way bad. This is easy to do if your not familiar with using them. They also tend to compact/harden the soil more - I don't like that...Not serious but, I like it more able to take in O2..
They tend to be most beneficial "down the road" as an outdoor soil amendment for "wintering over" for the next season, as they become more available then....

No disrespect taken at all!
Good question!

Doc

Dr. Who said:

Looks pretty good really.
I just don't like grains and grain flours for container soils.....to easy for over watering and rot to start....Causes anaerobic condition. Easy to happen in container soil and is really a long term thing....Great for outdoor soil building....
You should be fine with the rock Phos....I just like to use some SRP.....Organics can be a real personal choice thing on what you use,,,,in reality, do what makes you comfortable!!

As far as peat goes. That's one I will not flip on for me.....I have never really liked Coco....My choice.

Rice hulls - no problem if you have them around. Simply remember to amend with more perlite or Lavastone as they degrade/compost....down the road as you reuse/recharge the soil for the next run(s). I actually like to use them for single use container soil that I then spread in the veggie patch.....

A brief word on greensand. That is another natural mined substance that is s-l-o-w to renew....I like Azomite when I have my druthers.....Same amounts basically.

I do add a myco's brand high on the fungal side - again, personal choice. I do have a lot going on bio wise with what I do use anyway but, well,,I use less then they say and really like my results....along with an occasional bio tea for a kicker now and then.

Doc.

Click to expand...

I know greensand takes the longest but it's more for when I use it on veggies. And everything outdoors and California is in a drought. So I'm attempting to use as much water retaining stuff. So I should ask if you have any additives to help that, if greatly appreciate that.

Back to greensand for a moment. Can you tell me what it does bc I've seen it with npk and without. Tells me it does a dozen different things but I'm confused about it.

Also is there something I can do to make it available when I use it? Like add it straight to compost at the end of the year then use it for next year's grow?

Idk if I said or it clears anything up but this will all be grown outside.

swiftkillpapa said:

I know greensand takes the longest but it's more for when I use it on veggies. And everything outdoors and California is in a drought. So I'm attempting to use as much water retaining stuff. So I should ask if you have any additives to help that, if greatly appreciate that.

Back to greensand for a moment. Can you tell me what it does bc I've seen it with npk and without. Tells me it does a dozen different things but I'm confused about it.

Also is there something I can do to make it available when I use it? Like add it straight to compost at the end of the year then use it for next year's grow?

Idk if I said or it clears anything up but this will all be grown outside.

Click to expand...

Greensand is used to improve mineral content. It is good for Fe, K, Si and Mg (from glauconite that is the GS).
N-P-K is 0-0-3 and the K releases evenly over time....
Greensand is valued for being able to break up clay soils that increases drainage and allows O2 into the soil. Clay soils tend to be on the anaerobic side.
Greensand is used in sandy soils to improve water retention and mineral content.
Greensand is the mineral deposits left from ancient ocean floors.....

While it is a kinda down the road amendment for some of it's contents. Others release as soon as it begins to be used. It is very good for starting a "no-till" style grow.

Azomite is proven to increase nutrient up-take and supplies better Si availability....

Water retention:

MULCH: Mulch around your outdoor plants 2-6 inch's of it....Bark, hay, straw, even grass clippings or well composted manure's will all help retain water by reducing evaporation. All of these things will compost in time....It's up to you to add back to the mulch as needed.
Grass will be the fastest, followed by compost (up to 6 weeks).

Peat and Coco (Personally, I still don't like coco, even though it does retain moisture better then perlite) work as moisture retainers, not to mention perlite, lavastone and vermiculite. Vermiculite breaks down and is not a long term solution.

There is something out there called "Aqua-Feed" from Techno Green Corp. I have done some reading on it. It's used in the Middle East and I hear that Cali farmers are looking at it for the same reason.....Up to 50% water use savings....It is organic and from volcanic activity many years ago - if I recall correctly - I suspect it's not cheap but, I don't know...Check it out and let us know eh?

You mentioned "fungal" feeding in the past.....It dawned on me that those that do use grains for that. Feel that being carbs, grains are feeding the bio's....Yeah, they will, but like I said, that can be a problem....Your outdoors....not as much a problem! Try them, but be prudent in amounts to start. Till or incorporate them into the soil after harvest for the next year's run, wintering them over.....Keep in mind any carb will work. It does not have to be a grain.....
Doc

Doc can I ask how you learn your stuff. Mine's from people like you and the internet and some books. I just feel like I'm never sure if what I knows is accurate. Like the grain once you said I shouldn't have put it in I was like shit I knew I was over zealous about it. I just need years of fucking around with stuff to figure it out I'm thinking.
Also have you heard of sea90 could you explain what the hell it is. I know what it does but based on what the websites selling it says. I was looking up compost teas and I came across boogy brew and they use it. I Wana know why. Isn't there something less salt based.

swiftkillpapa said:

Doc can I ask how you learn your stuff. Mine's from people like you and the internet and some books. I just feel like I'm never sure if what I knows is accurate. Like the grain once you said I shouldn't have put it in I was like shit I knew I was over zealous about it. I just need years of fucking around with stuff to figure it out I'm thinking.
Also have you heard of sea90 could you explain what the hell it is. I know what it does but based on what the websites selling it says. I was looking up compost teas and I came across boogy brew and they use it. I Wana know why. Isn't there something less salt based.

Click to expand...

Missed this question last year man - sorry.

Length of time growing MJ
growing up on a farm
schooling
Ran a floral greenhouse
Worked growing Yew bush's for a drug company
Now run a 4 organic farm co-op

sea90 is simply a micro nute source. Not salty. Never tried it.

Boogy brew is just a packaged brewing kit in 2 parts. I think If I recall. It's not vermicompost based.

Dr. Who said:

Missed this question last year man - sorry.

Length of time growing MJ
growing up on a farm
schooling
Ran a floral greenhouse
Worked growing Yew bush's for a drug company
Now run a 4 organic farm co-op

sea90 is simply a micro nute source. Not salty. Never tried it.

Boogy brew is just a packaged brewing kit in 2 parts. I think If I recall. It's not vermicompost based.

Click to expand...

It's never a miss I'm working on it every year. I'm trying to get a really from scratch super soil. Because peat moss and coco are way cheaper than buying roots organics bags then adding to it. And in my year I've realized that although scientifically peat grows plants faster it has hydrophobic properties that make it hard to get a good soak. So Dr Who any recommendations on anything?

swiftkillpapa said:

It's never a miss I'm working on it every year. I'm trying to get a really from scratch super soil. Because peat moss and coco are way cheaper than buying roots organics bags then adding to it. And in my year I've realized that although scientifically peat grows plants faster it has hydrophobic properties that make it hard to get a good soak. So Dr Who any recommendations on anything?

Click to expand...

just make a compost pile man, fresh compost/humus will shit all over peat and coco, plus since it's LOADED with microbial llife you have a leg up there too.
give it a shot and I guarantee you'll never go back

swiftkillpapa said:

It's never a miss I'm working on it every year. I'm trying to get a really from scratch super soil. Because peat moss and coco are way cheaper than buying roots organics bags then adding to it. And in my year I've realized that although scientifically peat grows plants faster it has hydrophobic properties that make it hard to get a good soak. So Dr Who any recommendations on anything?

Click to expand...

What Grease said is one.
Another would be worm bins - your own EWC is the freshest there is! Not to mention you get the "liquid gold" run off! Can't beat that with a stick!

Other then that. Well, if you start farming and have some Beef cattle and some chickens. I know that sea90 works wonders mixed in their food at proper ratio's!

Take care Swifty -------- Hmm, Get Schwifty




Fav episode!

BIG +1 on the worm bin along with the compost pile. I usually stress the worm bin over the compost pile because everyone has 3 or 4 sqft in a corner somewhere and not everyone has a yard and/or inputs to do a compost pile. If you can, you should, and even better is having both.

AFA the peat and soaking, I've been making the same basic peat/perlite/bark fines mix for over 40 years (organic only in the last 6 or 7), but when mixing, the perlite and water to moisten are the last items. What I use is hot tap water with a healthy squirt of Ivory liquid in a 2 1/2 gal watering can. I mix a bit over 2cf (15 gal+), in a wheelbarrow and it takes from 5 to 7 gallons of the hot soapy water just to get it moist. But once it does take water you're GTG even if the mix dries out. VOE on that. Pretty much a one time deal with the soapy water.

Wet

Dr. Who said:

Missed this question last year man - sorry.

Length of time growing MJ
growing up on a farm
schooling
Ran a floral greenhouse
Worked growing Yew bush's for a drug company
Now run a 4 organic farm co-op

sea90 is simply a micro nute source. Not salty. Never tried it.

Boogy brew is just a packaged brewing kit in 2 parts. I think If I recall. It's not vermicompost based.

Click to expand...

Pretty impressive man, I'm an environmental sciences student, with a focus in biology, specifically plants. Now, I've learned a lot about soil, the interactions between microorganisms and plants, and the conditions that promote healthy plants. I've begun applying my knowledge to organic growing. I would like to one day have the experience you have.