Mykos & Trichoderma reesei

Dreminen169

Well-Known Member
Yes, you bet.
Simple example: Mammoth P
It is simply made buy focusing on a single or several specific Bio's that effect P uptake. Then brew the tea with those. Now just how they preserve the effective life of those bio's for packaging is what concerns me.. The price is simply stupid too. I mean you can make a bio tea that reflects that by introducing specific bio's too. I brew my own Bio teas. Some longer running plants that begin to exhaust the nutrients in the soil? Are then feed by nutrient rich bio teas - formulated to cover what's diminishing.

Thing is? The balance between too much P and just right P is a very small line.
OMG! Thank you for this revelation. So, basically what you’re saying is I could cut out things like mammoth P and Recharge with the right worm casting teas right? Do you have a good example/recipe of one and may be what it’s good for ie. N uptake or P uptake?
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
Scroll down a bit for the pdf article on inducing biological controls into your soil.

More recently, colonization with B. bassiana has been found to have a greater effect on the accumulation of terpenoids in tomato plants com-
pared with colonization by the arbuscular mycorrhizal fungus Rhizophagus intraradices (N.C. Schenck & G.S. Sm.) C. Walker & A.
Schüßler (Shrivastava et al., 2015)
Control plants, which were not inoculated with either fungus, constitutively produced monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. However, inoculation with the two endophytes, singly or combined, increased the amount of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes detected, and revealed new monoterpenes not found in control plants.


 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
OMG! Thank you for this revelation. So, basically what you’re saying is I could cut out things like mammoth P and Recharge with the right worm casting teas right? Do you have a good example/recipe of one and may be what it’s good for ie. N uptake or P uptake?
The one that's worked for me, as far as "uptake increase"...
Has always been a simple one.

1/2 cup of worm castings
1/4 cup of alfalfa meal
1/4 cup Molasses (I buy my molasses from a restaurant/bakery supply company - GORDON FOODS. This molasses is rather sweet and supplies plenty of "food" for the bacteria and fungus to grow.
Added to
5 gallons of Rain, pond, river, creek or spring water. I NEVER add kelp meal to any of my teas! It will reduce the living bio counts by as much as 45%+.
A cpl guys from Vortex and myself found that out by doing differing mix's and doing live counts.
So, don't add any Kelp product to your teas. Add kelp meal to your soil mix's and I also use kelp extract at every up potting and in foliar mix's (these foliar mix's help with cloning by helping root formation).

This tea is then brewed in a Vortex style tea brewer for 36hrs before use. It will last a day or so in the open , and about a week or so if refrigerated.
Some folks cut their tea before delivering it to the plant. I do NOT, Pour it on, full strength.... Ever get PM issues? Pull some of that tea at 18hrs of brew time and lightly filter it so it will go through a spray rig. Spray your plant surfaces with it - About 2 weeks of protection.

I use a Horse tail grass tea for direct PM killing....

That tea formula is a very normal simple Bio Tea. The Alfalfa (Dr Earth's is my religious go to brand) adds a few things spectrum wise (Bio's) and some minor available N.
This is the exact formula I used in testing the every other day use of it and synthetic's. It reduced the use of nutrients by a whopping 75% (Only feeding every other day and the concentration used was only 50%.

I say this because it was so powerful in bloom, I had to be very careful with any additional P&K use or ,, boom - P tox!

So I would say by hands on trials. This will do what those expensive and un needed supplements advertise they do.

Always remember that P will speed up the end of the plants life. Too much will not allow the plant to mature properly before it expires. This is that thin line between just right and too much. Unless you want pretty yellow plants with lost "potential" results.


BTW. That cool paper on terpenoids above. Should also be telling you that sulfate compounds present, effect the ability of those fungal types ( Rhizophagus intraradices and B. bassiana ) to increase terpenoid production. It's what they eat (or part of their focus) too.. That tidbit of knowledge is from Agronomy class.
 
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DCcan

Well-Known Member
5 gallons of Rain, pond, river, creek or spring water. I NEVER ad kelp meal to any of my teas! It will reduce the living bio counts by as much as 45%+.
Awesome post, i'm still working on propagating more horsetail, really got to get a small alfalfa patch going by the borage.
I stopped adding kelp to the mix, made a separate batch. I suspected it, just seemed to take forever to get bubbly.
BTW. That cool paper on terpenoids above. Should also be telling you that sulfate compounds present, effect the ability of those fungal types ( Rhizophagus intraradices and B. bassiana ) to increase terpenoid production. It's what they eat (or part of their focus) too..
I think one of the links had some blurbs on interaction with sulfur introduced, just can't keep all the info categorized, overload.
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
5 gallons of Rain, pond, river, creek or spring water. I NEVER add kelp meal to any of my teas! It will reduce the living bio counts by as much as 45%+.
A cpl guys from Vortex and myself found that out by doing differing mix's and doing live counts.

So, don't add any Kelp product to your teas. Add kelp meal to your soil mix's and I also use kelp extract at every up potting and in foliar mix's (these foliar mix's help with cloning by helping root formation).
Another reason to skip kelp in the tea brew, the bacteria that colonizes kelp has a chemical that signals other bacteria and fungus that there is "no more room" to procreate.
The bacteria on brown kelps produce metabolites that interfere with bacterial autoinducer-2 quorum sensing, a signaling system implicated in virulence and host colonization.

:arrow:Bacterial–Fungal Interactions in the Kelp Endomicrobiota Drive Autoinducer-2 Quorum Sensing
 
The one that's worked for me, as far as "uptake increase"...
Has always been a simple one.

1/2 cup of worm castings
1/4 cup of alfalfa meal
1/4 cup Molasses (I buy my molasses from a restaurant/bakery supply company - GORDON FOODS. This molasses is rather sweet and supplies plenty of "food" for the bacteria and fungus to grow.
Added to
5 gallons of Rain, pond, river, creek or spring water. I NEVER add kelp meal to any of my teas! It will reduce the living bio counts by as much as 45%+.
A cpl guys from Vortex and myself found that out by doing differing mix's and doing live counts.
So, don't add any Kelp product to your teas. Add kelp meal to your soil mix's and I also use kelp extract at every up potting and in foliar mix's (these foliar mix's help with cloning by helping root formation).

This tea is then brewed in a Vortex style tea brewer for 36hrs before use. It will last a day or so in the open , and about a week or so if refrigerated.
Some folks cut their tea before delivering it to the plant. I do NOT, Pour it on, full strength.... Ever get PM issues? Pull some of that tea at 18hrs of brew time and lightly filter it so it will go through a spray rig. Spray your plant surfaces with it - About 2 weeks of protection.

I use a Horse tail grass tea for direct PM killing....

That tea formula is a very normal simple Bio Tea. The Alfalfa (Dr Earth's is my religious go to brand) adds a few things spectrum wise (Bio's) and some minor available N.
This is the exact formula I used in testing the every other day use of it and synthetic's. It reduced the use of nutrients by a whopping 75% (Only feeding every other day and the concentration used was only 50%.

I say this because it was so powerful in bloom, I had to be very careful with any additional P&K use or ,, boom - P tox!

So I would say by hands on trials. This will do what those expensive and un needed supplements advertise they do.

Always remember that P will speed up the end of the plants life. Too much will not allow the plant to mature properly before it expires. This is that thin line between just right and too much. Unless you want pretty yellow plants with lost "potential" results.


BTW. That cool paper on terpenoids above. Should also be telling you that sulfate compounds present, effect the ability of those fungal types ( Rhizophagus intraradices and B. bassiana ) to increase terpenoid production. It's what they eat (or part of their focus) too.. That tidbit of knowledge is from Agronomy class.
What would that horsetail tea recipe look like.
I have those growing wild. A lot of sand but weak rooting trees so forest with high silica plants.
 
The powder form stays active much longer, plus you don't have to worry about freezing shipment like the liquid base.
Summer ordering is no problem, but the liquid form should not be frozen.
What about Milky spore?
 

OSBuds

Well-Known Member
Maybe fungal hyphae
 

waterproof808

Well-Known Member
Do these products from this site all have Beauveria bassiana? Which one are you using with success? I am looking forward to using one as a preventative as well. I’ve heard that they work very very well against most cannabis related pestsView attachment 4824854
FWIW, ive found Bioceres WP to be alot more effective than botanigard 22wp. It is also approved for use as a root drench on cannabis in canada.
 
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