Need some knowledge from a guru man

M

Madmike79

Active Member
For the Past year I have been building up my organic compost usual stuff veg waste,brown waste and horse manure and plenty of worms it seems to be teaming with bug life which I know is a good thing I intend to use this on next grow as am tired of using chemicals would what I have put in to compost be enough to ensure a healthy crop as I have no interest in putting any Chemicals this time all help and info Is appreciated
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Newby here to organic but from what ive read on here is to mix only 20% of your compost to peat perlite and go from there.
They'll be more experienced folks to answer.Cheers.
 
M

Madmike79

Active Member
Thanks for reply.
Yeah one part Compost to 3 parts soil/peat perlite which is sound I am trying to find out what else organically to add to ensure compost is nutrient efficient it is teaming With life which I believe is a good sign am setting of some Louis macrons tonight (new accidental Hybrid strain) from good strains.
 
7CardBud

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
I do a pretty simple container mix

20% perlite
30% compost or 10% for starter mix
the rest peat

1/2 cup dolamite per cu ft
1/8 cup humic acid granules per cu ft
myco starter

I mix it up on a tarp, then it goes into rubbermade containers with holes.
I water it in with a slurry I make from ground aloe to help wet the peat
 
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M

Madmike79

Active Member
When u say start 10% starter mix is that for little ones starting off then 30% when transferred to larger containers thanks for information want to have a good organic grow will get better with time thank you
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Yeah. Starting mix needs to be cold. If that’s a term lol. I used some old peat from my garden and added 10 or so % of compost and it’s a little hot for my clones. Start in solo cups with a seedling mix. Likely your compost will be too hot.
 
7CardBud

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
I usually run something like this...

Clone into 1gal starter mix.

After about week or when roots start poking out bottom I topdress with compost.
This will slowly water in and add nutes to growing plant.

Run about another two weeks then transplant into 5gallons of full strenght mix.
This gets me to flowering, about 5-6 weeks.

I topdress again when they go into flower and then again in 3 weeks.

I keep some bottle nutes around just in of those oh crap moments since top dressed compost takes a while to work in.
 
M

Madmike79

Active Member
Thank you so love this site I was going to just topdress the whole way through as I new there was a chance of compost being to hot. Always pondered with the idea of organic then one day buys a bag tasted chemical thought fuck this and thus has started my mission to go organic definitely takes time to convert when creating home made compost but is a great learning experience and cost saver.
 
go go kid

go go kid

Well-Known Member
have you thaught to use chicken manure pelets, fish blood and bone meal pellets and seaweed meal as dry amendments to keep the plant healthy and fed. works well and lasts for monthes
 
M

Madmike79

Active Member
I didn't as new learning curve went with veg and garden waste horse manure loads of worms in there as a basis for starting it's teaming with life which I have been told is a good thing am I able to add the chicken pellets and other items to this or do them as a separate feed. I know horse manure was a super food but never thought about chicken manure pellets.
Thank you for your help.
 
go go kid

go go kid

Well-Known Member
yes you can, just add the amendments in the botom part of the soil in the pot, that way the plant spreads its roots out throughout the soil and the deeper roots will take up the nutes . you dont need much of each and you should be able to grow the whole plant with a few feedings
 
S

stashpot

Member
look into
bat guano
frass
kelp
FPJ (Fermented plant Juice ) you make this yourself (easy)
also IMO (indigenous micro organisms) make yourself
all organic amendments easy to use nd cheap.

also you should add vermiculite instead of perlite.

Its a volcanic rock and its better in organic.
 
kratos015

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Madmike79 said:
For the Past year I have been building up my organic compost usual stuff veg waste,brown waste and horse manure and plenty of worms it seems to be teaming with bug life which I know is a good thing I intend to use this on next grow as am tired of using chemicals would what I have put in to compost be enough to ensure a healthy crop as I have no interest in putting any Chemicals this time all help and info Is appreciated
Click to expand...
You'll know if it has life in it or not. The smell is unmistakable, and quite intoxicating. In fact, the microbes in a living soil/compost actually provide a bit of a dopamine rush. This is why gardening is so peaceful and relaxing for everyone that gets into it.

You're on the right track from what I can tell. You're making your own EWC, and if you've been letting the worms compost everything for the last year then your EWC should be amazing.

My soil mix is a variation of Coots. I run 40% peat/40% perlite/20% compost. Sole mineral input is Basalt. Oyster Shell Flour is his pH buffer of choice, but Lime will also work of course. Coots uses Crab, Neem, and Kelp meals for dry amendments and that is all you need. I use something different, but that's because of a Calcium issue with my water so I can't use Crab Meal.

I've found that putting equal parts compost/perlite/peat gave me issues, personally. Unless your compost is of the highest quality, it will clump up on you in your pots.

I've found better results with the 40/40/20 ratio, favoring religious top dresses of compost and dry amendments every week. Neem, Crab, and Kelp are extremely light and won't cause burn, so you can top dress with the stuff constantly and see no issues.

Just be sure to replace Neem Meal with Karanja Meal in flower for your top dresses. Neem has a 6-1-2 NPK where as Karanja has zero NPK, making it more suitable for flower.


stashpot said:
also you should add vermiculite instead of perlite.

Its a volcanic rock and its better in organic.
Click to expand...
What do you use for drainage and aeration in your soil? Vermiculite retains moisture whereas perlite is for drainage and aeration.

You're spot on about volcanic rock being well suited for organic, but you need some form of aeration in your soil to go with the vermiculite.

Basalt is a volcanic rock, and is incredible stuff.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
kratos015 said:
You'll know if it has life in it or not. The smell is unmistakable, and quite intoxicating. In fact, the microbes in a living soil/compost actually provide a bit of a dopamine rush. This is why gardening is so peaceful and relaxing for everyone that gets into it.

You're on the right track from what I can tell. You're making your own EWC, and if you've been letting the worms compost everything for the last year then your EWC should be amazing.

My soil mix is a variation of Coots. I run 40% peat/40% perlite/20% compost. Sole mineral input is Basalt. Oyster Shell Flour is his pH buffer of choice, but Lime will also work of course. Coots uses Crab, Neem, and Kelp meals for dry amendments and that is all you need. I use something different, but that's because of a Calcium issue with my water so I can't use Crab Meal.

I've found that putting equal parts compost/perlite/peat gave me issues, personally. Unless your compost is of the highest quality, it will clump up on you in your pots.

I've found better results with the 40/40/20 ratio, favoring religious top dresses of compost and dry amendments every week. Neem, Crab, and Kelp are extremely light and won't cause burn, so you can top dress with the stuff constantly and see no issues.

Just be sure to replace Neem Meal with Karanja Meal in flower for your top dresses. Neem has a 6-1-2 NPK where as Karanja has zero NPK, making it more suitable for flower.




What do you use for drainage and aeration in your soil? Vermiculite retains moisture whereas perlite is for drainage and aeration.

You're spot on about volcanic rock being well suited for organic, but you need some form of aeration in your soil to go with the vermiculite.

Basalt is a volcanic rock, and is incredible stuff.
Click to expand...
Really enjoy your posts,Thanks.
 
M

Madmike79

Active Member
kratos015 said:
You'll know if it has life in it or not. The smell is unmistakable, and quite intoxicating. In fact, the microbes in a living soil/compost actually provide a bit of a dopamine rush. This is why gardening is so peaceful and relaxing for everyone that gets into it.

You're on the right track from what I can tell. You're making your own EWC, and if you've been letting the worms compost everything for the last year then your EWC should be amazing.

My soil mix is a variation of Coots. I run 40% peat/40% perlite/20% compost. Sole mineral input is Basalt. Oyster Shell Flour is his pH buffer of choice, but Lime will also work of course. Coots uses Crab, Neem, and Kelp meals for dry amendments and that is all you need. I use something different, but that's because of a Calcium issue with my water so I can't use Crab Meal.

I've found that putting equal parts compost/perlite/peat gave me issues, personally. Unless your compost is of the highest quality, it will clump up on you in your pots.

I've found better results with the 40/40/20 ratio, favoring religious top dresses of compost and dry amendments every week. Neem, Crab, and Kelp are extremely light and won't cause burn, so you can top dress with the stuff constantly and see no issues.

Just be sure to replace Neem Meal with Karanja Meal in flower for your top dresses. Neem has a 6-1-2 NPK where as Karanja has zero NPK, making it more suitable for flower.




What do you use for drainage and aeration in your soil? Vermiculite retains moisture whereas perlite is for drainage and aeration.

You're spot on about volcanic rock being well suited for organic, but you need some form of aeration in your soil to go with the vermiculite.

Basalt is a volcanic rock, and is incredible stuff.
Click to expand...
Would I be right in saying use basalt and vermiculite together 20% of each to make 40%,40% peat and 20% compost will be looking at the neem,kelp and crab amendments at some point as just set seeds off.
When you say change the neem meal with karanja meal when flowering is this from 12/12 flick or two weeks in to flower as that is it's frenzy time I usually put it in to darkness for 36 hrs before I flick them
 
S

stashpot

Member
kratos015 said:
You'll know if it has life in it or not. The smell is unmistakable, and quite intoxicating. In fact, the microbes in a living soil/compost actually provide a bit of a dopamine rush. This is why gardening is so peaceful and relaxing for everyone that gets into it.

You're on the right track from what I can tell. You're making your own EWC, and if you've been letting the worms compost everything for the last year then your EWC should be amazing.

My soil mix is a variation of Coots. I run 40% peat/40% perlite/20% compost. Sole mineral input is Basalt. Oyster Shell Flour is his pH buffer of choice, but Lime will also work of course. Coots uses Crab, Neem, and Kelp meals for dry amendments and that is all you need. I use something different, but that's because of a Calcium issue with my water so I can't use Crab Meal.

I've found that putting equal parts compost/perlite/peat gave me issues, personally. Unless your compost is of the highest quality, it will clump up on you in your pots.

I've found better results with the 40/40/20 ratio, favoring religious top dresses of compost and dry amendments every week. Neem, Crab, and Kelp are extremely light and won't cause burn, so you can top dress with the stuff constantly and see no issues.

Just be sure to replace Neem Meal with Karanja Meal in flower for your top dresses. Neem has a 6-1-2 NPK where as Karanja has zero NPK, making it more suitable for flower.




What do you use for drainage and aeration in your soil? Vermiculite retains moisture whereas perlite is for drainage and aeration.

You're spot on about volcanic rock being well suited for organic, but you need some form of aeration in your soil to go with the vermiculite.

Basalt is a volcanic rock, and is incredible stuff.
Click to expand...
I use airpots takes out the need for perlite although it comes in the organic soil i get with added chitin also i dont water to drain i water from below nd from on top and works great for me

I always give plants just enough for the day so im not overwatering, most times with airpots you dont need to water till runoff they have great drainage and 6 hours after watering soil is back to perfect texture. i always strive for this method.
 
C

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
Madmike79 said:
Would I be right in saying use basalt and vermiculite together 20% of each to make 40%,40% peat and 20% compost will be looking at the neem,kelp and crab amendments at some point as just set seeds off.
When you say change the neem meal with karanja meal when flowering is this from 12/12 flick or two weeks in to flower as that is it's frenzy time I usually put it in to darkness for 36 hrs before I flick them
Click to expand...
No. Vermiculite and perlite should be 20 to 33%. Rock dust (basalt in your case) is a separate amendment not for aeration it is for minerals and places for the microbes to live.

Go easy on vermiculite. Perlite is really what you want unless you have very light soil. I put in maybe 1/4 vermiculite 3/4 perlite to start, and only amend with perlite now going forward. Water retention is not a problem with most organic soils.
 
S

stashpot

Member
yeah when adding vermiculite about 10% is nice 10% perlite. perfect blend of both.

you need to watch using to much perlite is bad to i added to much to the bottom of a big pot years ago and the roots had problems trying to stick to the soil.. especially if you plan on doing wet/dry cycles it can cost you
 
kratos015

kratos015

Well-Known Member
stashpot said:
I use airpots takes out the need for perlite although it comes in the organic soil i get with added chitin also i dont water to drain i water from below nd from on top and works great for me

I always give plants just enough for the day so im not overwatering, most times with airpots you dont need to water till runoff they have great drainage and 6 hours after watering soil is back to perfect texture. i always strive for this method.
Click to expand...
Woah. I thought airpots only were for preventing the roots wrapping around and getting bound, somewhat similar to a smart pot.

They seriously provide aeration? That's incredible! Learn something new every day.

I'll be looking into those pots for the next time I do an indoor.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
kratos015 said:
You'll know if it has life in it or not. The smell is unmistakable, and quite intoxicating. In fact, the microbes in a living soil/compost actually provide a bit of a dopamine rush. This is why gardening is so peaceful and relaxing for everyone that gets into it.

You're on the right track from what I can tell. You're making your own EWC, and if you've been letting the worms compost everything for the last year then your EWC should be amazing.

My soil mix is a variation of Coots. I run 40% peat/40% perlite/20% compost. Sole mineral input is Basalt. Oyster Shell Flour is his pH buffer of choice, but Lime will also work of course. Coots uses Crab, Neem, and Kelp meals for dry amendments and that is all you need. I use something different, but that's because of a Calcium issue with my water so I can't use Crab Meal.

I've found that putting equal parts compost/perlite/peat gave me issues, personally. Unless your compost is of the highest quality, it will clump up on you in your pots.

I've found better results with the 40/40/20 ratio, favoring religious top dresses of compost and dry amendments every week. Neem, Crab, and Kelp are extremely light and won't cause burn, so you can top dress with the stuff constantly and see no issues.

Just be sure to replace Neem Meal with Karanja Meal in flower for your top dresses. Neem has a 6-1-2 NPK where as Karanja has zero NPK, making it more suitable for flower.




What do you use for drainage and aeration in your soil? Vermiculite retains moisture whereas perlite is for drainage and aeration.

You're spot on about volcanic rock being well suited for organic, but you need some form of aeration in your soil to go with the vermiculite.

Basalt is a volcanic rock, and is incredible stuff.
Click to expand...
Hey Kratos, would you recommend the fine or coarse basalt? Thanks.
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