New in hydroponics what is the problem(s)

So church, are your grows just beyond? you have a ton of info...I am impressed, but can you apply it? No disrespect at all....I am actually just concerned that the info may only be one dimensional. Look, when a beginner needs help I would skip the advanced chemistry lesson. We spoke about Silicates yesterday and it seemed that you might actually be standing in your own way perhaps. Do you know a lot about botany as well?

Okay , I can say that they recovered now and they grow normal.

res ppm: 620
ph: 5.5
res temp: 24
room temp: 25

I don't have enough time for flowering but at least I know now that it was my fault.
check the photos.

a small update

You're looking good. Ninja and Church are pretty dead on. Only someone with lots of dwc experience would know that ppm is a lot more critical then ph, pH needs to fluctuate to allow the intake of various nutrients. As long as it's kept within a range of 5.5 to 6 it's fine. I actually never ph adjust unless it's over 6.1. But to be completely honest you need both. If you want to be above the rest you have to grow above the rest. Your temps look good, so does your ppm and ph. Keep it up and keep up the reading.

dtowndabber said:

You're looking good. Ninja and Church are pretty dead on. Only someone with lots of dwc experience would know that ppm is a lot more critical then ph, pH needs to fluctuate to allow the intake of various nutrients. As long as it's kept within a range of 5.5 to 6 it's fine. I actually never ph adjust unless it's over 6.1. But to be completely honest you need both. If you want to be above the rest you have to grow above the rest. Your temps look good, so does your ppm and ph. Keep it up and keep up the reading.

Click to expand...

So how many plants have you harvested from aero or dwc in your grow life?

Are you questioning the validity of what I said? Or just trying to pick a fight cause you're bored?

Questioning. Anybody with aero knowledge and experience would say ph is much more important. You can have the worlds best nutrients measured perfectly but if ph is not in proper range for current stage of growth the plants will lag behind. In veg plants get much more of what they need at 5.6-5.8 and at 6 they will have defs. In late flower they need more of what is avaliable at 6.0-6.2 to really build the buds but if at <5.8 they will not get these needed elements. Sure 5.8 is the mid and starting point but with experience you can see a huge difference if ph is kept correct and consistent. Consistent being key. I have only grown aero and have harvested a shitload of plants(1400+) and have had time to see the differences. So, yes, i am questioning you based on lots of first hand knowledge.

superstoner1 said:

Questioning. Anybody with aero knowledge and experience would say ph is much more important. You can have the worlds best nutrients measured perfectly but if ph is not in proper range for current stage of growth the plants will lag behind. In veg plants get much more of what they need at 5.6-5.8 and at 6 they will have defs. In late flower they need more of what is avaliable at 6.0-6.2 to really build the buds but if at <5.8 they will not get these needed elements. Sure 5.8 is the mid and starting point but with experience you can see a huge difference if ph is kept correct and consistent. Consistent being key. I have only grown aero and have harvested a shitload of plants(1400+) and have had time to see the differences. So, yes, i am questioning you based on lots of first hand knowledge.

Click to expand...

Well then I would say you lack in reading skills. First of all I mention hydro ONLY. 2nd I mentioned that ph RANGE is what is best, ie why it's not as important to be precise. Fuck man read a whole paragraph before chiming in. 3rd I would love for you to come tell me how many deficiencies my plants get from letting them range from 5.5-6.2. They only ever get deficiencies from wrong ppm! Too little or too much. Haha so I call bullshit on you 1400+

Cause everyone lies. It's ok....

Oh and I think i added in their something about needing both to be a pro. So I'll tell you like I tell all the other noobs, READ READ READ!

Title of thread : NEW IN HYDROPONICS

Checkmate....

End rant*

If your getting any def from wrong levels of nutes then you need to learn your nutes.

That's all you have to say? Nothing about "sorry for not reading all of it" or "yes ass hole I have harvested that much"??? Smh..... It's ok you can't win them all.

And if you think the feeding suggestions on the side of your nutes is 100% accurate, I challenge you to follow it on those 1000+ plants of yours.

There's really no reason to continue this blah blah Internet arguing. Difference of opinion. And I have no deficiencies

Guys and girls thank you all for your interest. Others less others more but never mind .In order to not waste those 3 plants, I am thinking to plant them to soil and take them outside to the sunlight from July until October.I know the risks and the sock they might suffer from different environment but anyway i am forced to kill them after july or find someone to take care of them. Is it better to transplant them in soil now or keep them in water for now and around July move them to soil and outside?Also do you know any nice cheap system of auto watering with a tank or smthg? I live in Netherlands and around October usually they harvest if it's outdoor.

Stop flaming and give me advices

Okay things went wrong again and I think it's because i over did it again with the dosage of nutrients. I was at 600 ppm and there were growing fast and healthy without any dry leaves.1 week later i changed the water and i increased ppm to 750 -800.Now the leaves began to dry out again and the growth stopped again. I followed this ppm chart http://boards.cannabis.com/attachme...58-gh-nutrient-schedule-chart-flora_chart.gif.

Now i switched back to 600 ppm and i hope they will get better soon.
Is it normal that they are so sensitive with so small changes in ppm ?

Alright , I transplanted all of them to soil. In 1 week I will get them to sunlight and they will stay outside for 1 + 1/2 month.Then i will take them back inside for flowering.

Check the photos:

(the darker in color was already in soil 2 weeks now.)

I dont think u will get much from that plant on the left.

Gotta learn some how, some learn from failure, I've had my share. Good luck, and next time you go DWC start with one bucket.

Hello people !

I am back from vacations and the plants survived pretty ok after 1+1/2 month of outdoor growth with long dissolving nutrients and only rain water gathered in a large bucket with automatic watering.When I first saw them, two weeks ago, they were looking a bit stretched and around 20cm taller than my grow-box. I tried to stretch them down but the main branch was too thick and I decided to prune them.Additionally, I had to stretch the tops down and I managed this, by hanging weights at the tops.The pruned branches became clones and I have in total around 10 of them, plus 3 mature plants (2x Crimea blue + 1x special queen).From the moment i moved them inside the box, they became more bushy and they created many tops and leafs.My problem now is that some leafs at the top bturned a bit whitish-yellowish ans some leaf edges dry, although when they were outdoors, they were looking fine.The signs look almost the same with when I had them in DWC.I forgot to mention that when I transferred them from outdoors to indoors they had already started to create pistils about 1 week old.Now they are at their 3rd week of flowering and their buds are looking healthy. I am watering them every 2 days with bio bloom from plagroom. Additionally, i am spraying them every 3 days with vita race from the same company.I also have a PK booster from Canna (it's for hydroponics) and i am thinking to start using it for better budding.Can it work in combination with bio bloom, if I mix it half-half?

I am thinking that my problem with the yellowish leaves and dry edges has to do smthg with the water hardness again as when they were outside they were using rainwater and because the symtoms are the same as before I transplanted them in soil.

I created a 10lt solution with fertilizers and PH neutralization to make sure that the water is no the problem but after 1 day of storage the PH value increased from 5.8 to 6.9 or 7.0. What is happening with my water and why PH increases so fast.Is it nessecary to balance the PH in my case now ? From pictures that I looked on the net, the problem looks like Potasium(K) deficiency.

I attached some images to check them out and tell me what do u think.

Cheers!

I would much rather have a ph meter. It is not possible to eyeball or guess your ph, and it very easily will drift out of the acceptable range in DWC... just look at the 50 fucking PH threads each month. I don't even use a ppm meter 95% of the time because ppm is much more predictable and has a much much wider acceptable range. Worse case, you can follow the instructions on the bottle at 1/3 strength and have no problems at all with the vast majority of strains (that I have grown).

If your roots are sitting in 4.6 ph water, it really doesn't matter what the PPM is and you will never know your ph is too low until your plant starts fucking up... and then it's a guessing game of is your ph too high, too low, is it fine and something else is wrong?