New room

Leeski said:

Quick update on my plants mother plant is now in a 80ltr fabric pot clones in 56ltr fabric pots going to flip in 3 wks timeView attachment 4509639View attachment 4509640View attachment 4509641View attachment 4509642View attachment 4509643View attachment 4509644View attachment 4509645View attachment 4509639View attachment 4509640View attachment 4509641View attachment 4509642View attachment 4509643View attachment 4509644View attachment 4509645

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Mad Bush Master said:

This is definitely a newbie question but yeah im new to this.
Whats in the two water bottles with the straws attached? And what do they help with?
I have seen this a few times but i have no idea why people are doing it.

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Leeski said:

There a little homemade co2 bottles useing yeast sugar and water Mate

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Renfro said:

TBH I didn't used to think defoliation was a good thing, but I first experimented with it in veg and noted how quickly the plants blow up afterwards. Secondly I tried it on some of my really leafy strains at about week 3 of 12/12. I learned that the lower bud sites developed much more than if not defoliated, any site more than about 12 inches below canopy was better with defoliation and I didn't notice any sign of loss on the top for the lack of a few fan leaves.

Now I do my defoliation in veg from the bottom up, removing all fans except the top two on each branch, when the plants are about a foot tall and again about 4 - 8 days before I move them into flower. When I defoliate in flower I work from the top down, only removing large fan leaves that are blocking lower growth and leaving lower fans that can serve as a nitrogen reserve in later flower. I like to see those remaining lower leaves fade during ripening indicating the plant is using mobile reserves of nitrogen and I am thus not over feeding.

When defoliating I find that too much lolipopping is counter productive as those lower sites are getting more light now. Only remove lower branches and sites if they are getting no light after day 21 of 12/12, or after stretch as some strains it may be later like GMO has another 14 days of stretch over any other strain I have ever ran. That strain will grow right up into your lights if you aren't expecting that lol. I find that leaving the lower branches until stretch is finished can help limit excessive stretch on the top a little.

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RangiSTaxi said:

your a advanced grower you can research girdling, and girdle a max of 2 mm, 3 weeks prior to finishing, this will restrict the carbohydrates heading back down to the roots and boost bud dry matter, the girdle will heal over with cambium with-in 4-10 days, dont go wider than 2 mm and don't go too deep, some times 2 girdles can be done on long flowering plants.

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Kassiopeija said:

Perfectly explained!


very interesting, have you ever done a "partial girdle"? like, cutting 3/4th of the cambium? I wonder what that should do, ie. not to completely shun off sugars from the roots but just toning it down a bit to get more sugar into the buds...

Could it also be done non-intrusive, e.g. by pressure (wire, hose clamps...)?

Ive accidentally broken the mainstem in times the plant was still small... its been 75% severed (open wound) so the cambium was intact only at one side.
Taped it swiftly, and also used artificial bark to shield the wound from air.

the plant grew just fine... maybe 25% is still too much leftover...
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there's still a huge scar in the outer structure, perhaps limiting/preventing some of the downflow... my guess is that the plant recreates that place in order to, again, reach a balanced equilibrium of up- & downflow.

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