NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
Applying microbes to the leaves and plant surfaces forms a barrier from pest and disease as there is no real estate for things like PM to take hold. Some of the microbes, in EM1 & photo+, actually enter into the plant tissue and cells(photosynthetic bacteria) assisting in nutrient assimilation and photosynthesis obviously. So just like root microbes, we need to foster the microbes living on the plant surfaces too. Same methods apply, foliar feed with added microbes, then everyday, every other, or bi-weekly; foliar feed again with a little Aphrodites added to whatever else you might be mixing up. This of course feeds the plant but it also feeds the microbes living on the plant!! This boosts CO2 levels around the plant too, from the surge of energy the microbes get, if plants jump up and pray hard this CO2 boost is one of the main contributors!! You will find some foliars don't really give these powerful reactions, if that's the case just omit it from your foliar regimen. Keep the recipes simple so you can see what the plant responds to the best and take good notes: the recipe, good or bad reaction, growth stage, etc.
 

Daddygrows420

Active Member
I was approaching your numbers as photo period plants, my bad.....the AUTO optimum slurry range is 200-400 ppms so they are all a little high so there is plenty of nutrition in the rootzone, just need to get your ph up on a few and tie up some of those higher ppms. And once corrected, start your feeds back up lower than that 600-700 ppm I suggested. The low ph ones are still good to roll with the flush I suggested, and the rest I would just do a regular Herc reset flush at 6.4. Then do the EZ tea. Once you can start feeds again just use Bubbas schedule for where you are, but maybe 1/2 strength & ph'd upper 6's for low slurry and 6.4 for the rest.
I do have the Hades down Irie. Should I drop it down to a certain PH? And then stuff it with Oly?
 

Daddygrows420

Active Member
Applying microbes to the leaves and plant surfaces forms a barrier from pest and disease as there is no real estate for things like PM to take hold. Some of the microbes, in EM1 & photo+, actually enter into the plant tissue and cells(photosynthetic bacteria) assisting in nutrient assimilation and photosynthesis obviously. So just like root microbes, we need to foster the microbes living on the plant surfaces too. Same methods apply, foliar feed with added microbes, then everyday, every other, or bi-weekly; foliar feed again with a little Aphrodites added to whatever else you might be mixing up. This of course feeds the plant but it also feeds the microbes living on the plant!! This boosts CO2 levels around the plant too, from the surge of energy the microbes get, if plants jump up and pray hard this CO2 boost is one of the main contributors!! You will find some foliars don't really give these powerful reactions, if that's the case just omit it from your foliar regimen. Keep the recipes simple so you can see what the plant responds to the best and take good notes: the recipe, good or bad reaction, growth stage, etc.
So this may be a dumb ass question, but is it ok to foliar feed some of these nutes while in flower? And can the EZ Tea bloom be foliar fed?
 

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
So this may be a dumb ass question, but is it ok to foliar feed some of these nutes while in flower? And can the EZ Tea bloom be foliar fed?
Once the buds are little puff balls you risk burning the hairs with the foliar, can spot foliar just under sides down low but kind of a pain and not worth the risk.
The EZ TEAS grow, bloom & Dr Root are drench only.....they are micronized undigested meals as food for the microbes. Dr growth( Trigger) is the only one that can be foliar sprayed. And their IPM spray.
 

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I do have the Hades down Irie. Should I drop it down to a certain PH? And then stuff it with Oly?
At least on the low ph ones. I've seen people take it down to 3.5 ph but that's low and I've never done it. Take it down to 4.5 - 5.0 with Hades then the Herc can bring it down some more.....then Oly up to 6.8 - 7.0. Your dealing with large ph swings so be patient and let Hades stir till ph is steady at the #, then stir the Herc in and wait till the ph is steady, then start bringing it up with oly in small shots; measuring the ph consistently till it parks where you need it. Then just water it into the center of the rootball.
 

Daddygrows420

Active Member
At least on the low ph ones. I've seen people take it down to 3.5 ph but that's low and I've never done it. Take it down to 4.5 - 5.0 with Hades then the Herc can bring it down some more.....then Oly up to 6.8 - 7.0. Your dealing with large ph swings so be patient and let Hades stir till ph is steady at the #, then stir the Herc in and wait till the ph is steady, then start bringing it up with oly in small shots; measuring the ph consistently till it parks where you need it. Then just water it into the center of the rootball.
Thanks Irie! And thank you for the info on the foliar feeding!
 

BunkerKing

Well-Known Member
@IrieRoots or @bubba73 .


With the two clones i have. There is one major question left.
What phenotype do i actually have.

Is this... Purple punch 2.0, The OG supernova cut from hawaii? ( i think it is from how the owner described it ) , Grown from seeds?
Were those fem seeds? A Random freebie seed in a 5 pack. Who knows.

Right now in the start of week 7. Some websites say 7-8 weeks. Some say 8-9, others 8-10.

So im just going to have to make the cut based on tric's.

If i was wanting to give it roughly a 7-10day flush.

and going for "roughly" a 50 cloud to 50 amber ratio.

At what % of amber would i want to make that swap into flush. So we hit a good finish.
Around 15-20%?
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
@IrieRoots or @bubba73 .


With the two clones i have. There is one major question left.
What phenotype do i actually have.

Is this... Purple punch 2.0, The OG supernova cut from hawaii? ( i think it is from how the owner described it ) , Grown from seeds?
Were those fem seeds? A Random freebie seed in a 5 pack. Who knows.

Right now in the start of week 7. Some websites say 7-8 weeks. Some say 8-9, others 8-10.

So im just going to have to make the cut based on tric's.

If i was wanting to give it roughly a 7-10day flush.

and going for "roughly" a 50 cloud to 50 amber ratio.

At what % of amber would i want to make that swap into flush. So we hit a good finish.
Around 15-20%?
wow ! 50% amber ? maybe looking at 10-12 , 12-14 week ..... I would start at 10% amber for the "flush" even tho its not like a water flush cause with HH your still building , so really you can push pretty long ..... I start "flush" when there 99% cloudy and depends on my slurry that could be a week or 2 maybe 3 till finish .....plus your trying to get the "fall colors" too ... you want the plant to yellow , red , purple leafs to get the sugar pushed to the flower "buds" ... so if I have a cookie or a kush and they won't fade ill give them straight water ..... and thats after 2 weeks of a "flush" and maybe another week or so straight water ..... please dont go by what a breeder says is the finish time , its never correct .... another rant when do you start counting in flower ? 12/12 or when you first see the pom poms ? you got 2 weeks for transition , so your week 3 is really week 1 in flower ? lol.....
 

BunkerKing

Well-Known Member
hmm was it 50%?

I swore i left my autos go to about 60/40 cloud to amber. I know i didnt flush till around 15-20% amber. Last time i grew was about 2 years ago.


Maybe i let them go too long? Everything you have said has been so right, so im down to try your method. Maybe staggered harvest. Get early and late tric oxidation.
 

BunkerKing

Well-Known Member
wow ! 50% amber ? maybe looking at 10-12 , 12-14 week ..... I would start at 10% amber for the "flush" even tho its not like a water flush cause with HH your still building , so really you can push pretty long ..... I start "flush" when there 99% cloudy and depends on my slurry that could be a week or 2 maybe 3 till finish .....plus your trying to get the "fall colors" too ... you want the plant to yellow , red , purple leafs to get the sugar pushed to the flower "buds" ... so if I have a cookie or a kush and they won't fade ill give them straight water ..... and thats after 2 weeks of a "flush" and maybe another week or so straight water ..... please dont go by what a breeder says is the finish time , its never correct .... another rant when do you start counting in flower ? 12/12 or when you first see the pom poms ? you got 2 weeks for transition , so your week 3 is really week 1 in flower ? lol.....

Hmmm. Well the pom poms are created from switching into flower. So 12/12 switch is day 1 imo.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Hmmm. Well the pom poms are created from switching into flower. So 12/12 switch is day 1 imo.
day 1 is the transition into flower .. thats another debate ..... I just woke up and dont know why idid % and no dont use my method ... figure out what works for you.... this is just advice.... I have no idea how your envoriment is and how you grow...... what works for me doesn't mean it works for you ...
 

BunkerKing

Well-Known Member
day 1 is the transition into flower .. thats another debate ..... I just woke up and dont know why idid % and no dont use my method ... figure out what works for you.... this is just advice.... I have no idea how your envoriment is and how you grow...... what works for me doesn't mean it works for you ...
morning buddy. No worries. Its gonna be a good harvest regardless.

and yah lol. Thats why i figured id harvest based on trics on these. Then ill know next time.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
morning buddy. No worries. Its gonna be a good harvest regardless.

and yah lol. Thats why i figured id harvest based on trics on these. Then ill know next time.
you can really push hard at finish .... had a guy who thought sense it was a week 8 plant and all cloudy that he should chop...and I was like give it another week ... then he came back and said ok getting where I want it and I said give it another 3 days to a week.... cause believe it or not thats where they put the weight on , yes they do in flower but that last push you get some bulk too.....not only do you push in veg , flower and now push for finish ..... and keeping an eye on your tric's ill start a flush starting at 99 % cloudy and that flush could last 1-3 weeks ....
 

loop718

Well-Known Member
Hey made a tea up added some pegasus and DD cuz some of my plants are starving for mag. I ph’d after i added the easy tea veg. Is that ok i forgot ur supposed to add inoculant after u ph
 

BunkerKing

Well-Known Member
you can really push hard at finish .... had a guy who thought sense it was a week 8 plant and all cloudy that he should chop...and I was like give it another week ... then he came back and said ok getting where I want it and I said give it another 3 days to a week.... cause believe it or not thats where they put the weight on , yes they do in flower but that last push you get some bulk too.....not only do you push in veg , flower and now push for finish ..... and keeping an eye on your tric's ill start a flush starting at 99 % cloudy and that flush could last 1-3 weeks ....
Love yah buddy <3 yes i will do that. Lets make some yummy flowers. :D
 

Daddygrows420

Active Member
When doing a slurry, do you need to deduct the PPM of the water being used? Say I use tap water that tests 150 PPM and my slurry result is 300 PPM, should the 150 PPM from the tap water be deducted from the 300 PPM slurry? I hope that makes sense, I just did a dab! Lol
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
When doing a slurry, do you need to deduct the PPM of the water being used? Say I use tap water that tests 150 PPM and my slurry result is 300 PPM, should the 150 PPM from the tap water be deducted from the 300 PPM slurry? I hope that makes sense, I just did a dab! Lol
perfect sense !!!! yes if your using tap water for feeds then use the tap water for slurries , and subtract the ppm from your water from the slurries like you said ... when I slurry my outdoor plants , water coming out of the hose is 290 ppm....then ill have a slurry of 300 ppm... we'll the slurry really 10 ppm.... HUNGRY !!!!!!
 

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
Hey made a tea up added some pegasus and DD cuz some of my plants are starving for mag. I ph’d after i added the easy tea veg. Is that ok i forgot ur supposed to add inoculant after u ph
EZ TEA right? spore form ez teas are more forgiving to ph because they need to wake up first so you should be fine. If its a living microbial from a liquid or a brewed tea then ph adjusting can be more detrimental. Its best to get in the habit of ph adjusting before adding any type of microbial.
 

Daddygrows420

Active Member
perfect sense !!!! yes if your using tap water for feeds then use the tap water for slurries , and subtract the ppm from your water from the slurries like you said ... when I slurry my outdoor plants , water coming out of the hose is 290 ppm....then ill have a slurry of 300 ppm... we'll the slurry really 10 ppm.... HUNGRY !!!!!!
O man ok, so my slurry numbers aren't really accurate then. I thought I read that somewhere, but can't find it now. I've probably overlooked it 5 times now...lol I will redo my slurry tests tonight.

I also did a fucking dumb noob thing when doing these 2 different herc flushes.....I inadvertently fed my 3 girls with good ph the higher herc flush! Damn it! So all 6 got the 7.0 PH herc flush last night.
 
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