No-till maintenance?

IIReignManII

IIReignManII

Well-Known Member
What are you guys doing to keep your soil reusable and in healthy shape? I've got 3-4 weeks left before harvest. I had grown a thick cover crop out during veg, and I've chopped it down at the beginning of flower and covered it with compost for the worms. I'm planning for how to treat them after harvest...this is my first time dealing with true no-till soil with worms in it. How do you guys topdress in this setting? How much/deep should I work my topdressings in?
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
IIReignManII said:
What are you guys doing to keep your soil reusable and in healthy shape? I've got 3-4 weeks left before harvest. I had grown a thick cover crop out during veg, and I've chopped it down at the beginning of flower and covered it with compost for the worms. I'm planning for how to treat them after harvest...this is my first time dealing with true no-till soil with worms in it. How do you guys topdress in this setting? How much/deep should I work my topdressings in?
Click to expand...
You can re-amend, just leave out any phosphorus inputs for reamending. I would probably use something like alfalfa, kelp, barley, and some kind of compost. Are you using a cover like mulch or anything? That will give your worms somewhere to live, but the last time that I used straw I ended up getting spider mites and I blame the straw. Anyways, I moved onto Earthboxes with shower caps and I don't deal with foreign plant material anymore... What part of Okla are you from? I'm around the Lake Thunderbird area...
 
IIReignManII

IIReignManII

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Are you talking about letting the pots/soil sit out for a rotation? Just top-dress like 2-3 inches and make sure to keep it moist and don't let it dry out.
Click to expand...
I will probably just plant back into them after another 30 day cook after amending and see how it goes....after I chop these plants I think I will do solid topdressing and plant another cover crop. I have a tea I'm going to apply today, I used compost, worm poop, kelp, alfalfa, and some agave nectar for a little compost tea with some kelp and alfalfa boost. Right now i have a layer of dead chopped crimson clover covered by a nice layer of compost. The compost has the texture of a finer wood mulch so its kind of killing two birds for me right now. I did a check yesterday and there were definitely worms hanging out in the top layer I built. I havent used a straw style mulch just the crimson clover at the beginning and the dead clover/compost layer now. I live in Tulsa
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
IIReignManII said:
I will probably just plant back into them after another 30 day cook after amending and see how it goes....after I chop these plants I think I will do solid topdressing and plant another cover crop. I have a tea I'm going to apply today, I used compost, worm poop, kelp, alfalfa, and some agave nectar for a little compost tea with some kelp and alfalfa boost. Right now i have a layer of dead chopped crimson clover covered by a nice layer of compost. The compost has the texture of a finer wood mulch so its kind of killing two birds for me right now. I did a check yesterday and there were definitely worms hanging out in the top layer I built. I havent used a straw style mulch just the crimson clover at the beginning and the dead clover/compost layer now. I live in Tulsa
Click to expand...
You should be fine. Let me tell you what helped me out a lot, it was a micronutrient product from Build-A-Soil called "Big 6". If you are using basalt and other rock dusts, then you should be fine with iron but the other micros are usually low like Manganese(not magnesium). I bought soil from BAS before and I was pissed and didn't buy from them for a long time, but they came out with this product that "Fixed" their soil. I've been getting my soil tested and everything that he says about Big 6 made sense. I feel like a salesman or something, but I'm buying this stuff too. If you know anything about BioAg and Dr. Faust, then you would understand that this is legit. Dr. Faust worked with Jeremy Silva at BAS and came up with a formula to "fix" his soil. Anyways, I thought that I would help out an Okla-homie... Dude, Big 6 and Barley and you will be on track with just about everyone on here.
https://buildasoil.com/collections/trace-minerals/products/buildasoil-big-6?variant=28311057727572

Here is the soil test that I get and it's supposed to be top of the line, but there are a few things that you need to know before you test like you can't add amendments before the test and you need to let it finish cooking before the test. I really like this test because it will show lock-out issues because it is a solubility test. You can find them for $10 cheaper if you don't mind waiting a week, but just bought one on Amazon prime and it was 1 day shipping. I'll be posting my soil test for Malibu Compost in about a week. I'm testing some Malibu Compost straight out of the bag to see if it has the micronutrients that they advertise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GMTHFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
N

NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
I can also say I'm giving the Big6 a try, it looked like exactly what I needed as well per my soil tests. Also as I was preparing my clones I used a small bit in each to ensure they had access to the micros from the earliest point possible. Just a smidge for each when I was preparing their soil.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
You should be fine. Let me tell you what helped me out a lot, it was a micronutrient product from Build-A-Soil called "Big 6". If you are using basalt and other rock dusts, then you should be fine with iron but the other micros are usually low like Manganese(not magnesium). I bought soil from BAS before and I was pissed and didn't buy from them for a long time, but they came out with this product that "Fixed" their soil. I've been getting my soil tested and everything that he says about Big 6 made sense. I feel like a salesman or something, but I'm buying this stuff too. If you know anything about BioAg and Dr. Faust, then you would understand that this is legit. Dr. Faust worked with Jeremy Silva at BAS and came up with a formula to "fix" his soil. Anyways, I thought that I would help out an Okla-homie... Dude, Big 6 and Barley and you will be on track with just about everyone on here.
https://buildasoil.com/collections/trace-minerals/products/buildasoil-big-6?variant=28311057727572

Here is the soil test that I get and it's supposed to be top of the line, but there are a few things that you need to know before you test like you can't add amendments before the test and you need to let it finish cooking before the test. I really like this test because it will show lock-out issues because it is a solubility test. You can find them for $10 cheaper if you don't mind waiting a week, but just bought one on Amazon prime and it was 1 day shipping. I'll be posting my soil test for Malibu Compost in about a week. I'm testing some Malibu Compost straight out of the bag to see if it has the micronutrients that they advertise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GMTHFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
I just added Big 6 in my cart for my BAS order tonight. I didn't know about it, but it sounds good. Thanks. I've been using the BAS Craft Blend, and just finished my first 12 lb bag. That's also in the cart. I've been loving that stuff. I don't have a worm bin yet, so I'm getting some more of their vermicompost too. That's some good shit. I have worms and more beneficial insects now just from that. I can't say enough good things about BAS, and am glad I heard about Big 6. Thanks again for the info.
 
BoiseShortz

BoiseShortz

Well-Known Member
Switched from tm-7 to big-6 for feedings but I still use the tm -7 for teas. I noticed a deeper, more lustery (don't know if that's a word) green and higher brix. Have to say, I love the stuff!
 
BoiseShortz

BoiseShortz

Well-Known Member
Also if you have access to things like comfrey, nettles, oak bark, horse tail, any of the biodynamic preps they work great for remineralizing/adding fertility.
 
hanimmal

hanimmal

Well-Known Member
IIReignManII said:
I will probably just plant back into them after another 30 day cook after amending and see how it goes....after I chop these plants I think I will do solid topdressing and plant another cover crop. I have a tea I'm going to apply today, I used compost, worm poop, kelp, alfalfa, and some agave nectar for a little compost tea with some kelp and alfalfa boost. Right now i have a layer of dead chopped crimson clover covered by a nice layer of compost. The compost has the texture of a finer wood mulch so its kind of killing two birds for me right now. I did a check yesterday and there were definitely worms hanging out in the top layer I built. I havent used a straw style mulch just the crimson clover at the beginning and the dead clover/compost layer now. I live in Tulsa
Click to expand...
If possible, I would maybe plant a winter rye or something to suck up those nutrients still in the soil, and next year plant a few feet in either direction (not directly into last years roots) and ideally have about 3 years before you plant again directly into the old root system. That way those old roots won't give the new plant a disease while they are breaking down.

Have a nice amount of different roots in the ground is very beneficial to all the life in the soil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top