Not another strip build

So after seeing Renfo's grow I decided to add some side lighting. I tried some QB's in my veg tent and I like them, but the LED's could stand to be spaced out better. I found some LM301B strips, made a quick plan, and got them on order! I expect more parts to trickle in over the next few days but here's what I've been up to

Cut up 25 or so feet of aluminum strap, tack down some keystock to make a quick jig. And yes, that upper middle key stock did get welded down crooked, had to redo that...

Tacked up pile, then a welded pile! Since the tacks were all on the back the frames were pulled in a bit of a bow, I tapped them flat with a small mallet and welded the backside to hold them down. I didn't weld this fully solid, just some stitch welds at each joint. The side with the tacks will get flattened with a flap sander, then I can get started drilling and tapping mounting holes.

You realize all you needed was some aluminum angle and some rivets or even just screws ? Goodluck !

ThatKidiscrying said:

You realize all you needed was some aluminum angle and some rivets or even just screws ? Goodluck !

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Welds won't loosen up over time so why not if you have the means, right?

TreeFarmerCharlie said:

Welds won't loosen up over time so why not if you have the means, right?

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Yes, your right but they also build airplanes out of aluminum with rivets. I’m just commenting, I’m interested in your project. I’m a builder too.

ThatKidiscrying said:

Yes, your right but they also build airplanes out of aluminum with rivets. I’m just commenting, I’m interested in your project. I’m a builder too.

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I'm not the OP, but I get what you are saying. Rivets can be strong but most rivets people get from the hardware store look like shit when you can see both sides of them. They are definitely a fine choice for holding it together. I'm just saying that, if I was good at welding aluminum, I'd do that for the rigidity and clean looks alone.

What strips are you using, where did you buy them, how much did they cost ? What driver ? What the spacing ? Remote mounted driver ? What’s the dealio ?

I would have to go out & buy rivets or screws, I've already got the welder & wire. Plus it is a lot faster to make with welding than drill& bolt.

They are Samsung made strips I found on Ebay, I believe the guy was marketing them as "Sun Board" $400 for 25 strips, 3000k 85W per strip, using HLG-320H-24A's. I have the strips spaced about every 75mm. I actually bought the drivers on ebay too, $56 each for the first 4

For most that do not have a rig to weld aluminum properly......

I use angle aluminum and then square tubing. I mark and drill all my holes then rivet it together.

The ugly part of the rivet is hidden within the tube. The finished head of the rivet is all that shows.

Just giving options for others. Thanks for sharing your build and I’m looking forward to discussing yours and light building in general.

nice job.
am always impressed by such well equiped workshops.

Got some goodies in the mail today!

You going to remote mount ?

a2lute said:

I would have to go out & buy rivets or screws, I've already got the welder & wire. Plus it is a lot faster to make with welding than drill& bolt.

They are Samsung made strips I found on Ebay, I believe the guy was marketing them as "Sun Board" $400 for 25 strips, 3000k 85W per strip, using HLG-320H-24A's. I have the strips spaced about every 75mm. I actually bought the drivers on ebay too, $56 each for the first 4

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Just a heads up, the diodes may be Samsung, but those strips are not made by Samsung. Great price on the drivers!

Layout is done, all center punched too. I'm gonna call it a night as far as working goes. I'm not going to remote mount, I dont like the idea of low voltage DC transferring power over any distance.

The drivers are completely fine to remotely mount. It's done on most builds. 7' through 18awg isn't an issue at all.

a2lute said:

Layout is done, all center punched too. I'm gonna call it a night as far as working goes. I'm not going to remote mount, I dont like the idea of low voltage DC transferring power over any distance.

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Airwalker16 said:

The drivers are completely fine to remotely mount. It's done on most builds. 7' through 18awg isn't an issue at all.

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Is there a formula to calculate wire size based on length of wire/volts/amps ?

How are you grounding the fixture with a remote driver ? The drivers I have (mean well) don’t have a ground on the output.

I assume if you mount the driver on the fixture it would create a natural ground because the drivers metallic case is grounded through the AC side.

Thanks for your help.

ThatKidiscrying said:

Is there a formula to calculate wire size based on length of wire/volts/amps ?

How are you grounding the fixture with a remote driver ? The drivers I have (mean well) don’t have a ground on the output.

I assume if you mount the driver on the fixture it would create a natural ground because the drivers metallic case is grounded through the AC side.

Thanks for your help.

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Ring connector on a wire, bolted onto the frame of your build,ran down along the DC wires for LEDs, over the drivers DC output, and connected to the ground on the input plug.

Airwalker16 said:

Ring connector on a wire, bolted onto the frame of your build,ran down along the DC wires for LEDs, over the drivers DC output, and connected to the ground on the input plug.

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Or I guess you could use 3 conductor cable.

ThatKidiscrying said:

Or I guess you could use 3 conductor cable.

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Yeah that'd work as well. You'd just need to cut it the full length to the spot your connecting to on the plug, and trim off the other 2 to where the drivers DC output leads begin.

cobshopgrow said:

Voltage Drop Calculator

This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.

www.calculator.net

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That will calculate drop but really doesn’t answer the question without more info.

How much voltage drop is allowable ?