Nute burn ?

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
Oh geez,

I wrote a huge essay but pressed back and it deleted.

Summery:

Check temp
Check humid? prob not issue
How's the light in there? What are you using?

Bet $10 bucks you find a few mites under that bottom water-leaf, and the upper one.

Your soil is based mostly in peat from what I've read yet has Dolomite lime from what I've read, soil ph is prob good, worm casting are neutral.
Are you pH'ing your water?

What nutrients are you using? just the soil? how much WC?

seal the bottom drywall there

bigger container for bloom!


I'd start over personally, what strain is it?
It's too beat up too early

waxyness is not there, foggy bottom leaves, it looks hot. leaves look pissed, new growth looks mostly good.

PROPS for the drywall and spackle


EDIT: IDK the strain but possibly top earlier
Temp is 72-75, Humidity around 45. They are under a 1000MH about 20 inches from the top of the plant. They are in veg. I am using sunshine 4 with 10% worm castings. I am just using House and garden Soil A & B.
 

bigbambino

Member
That temp could be okay depending on the strain but that sounds more like a night time range, i'd bump it to around 75-85 as long as it's bumping back and forth and not a steady 85.
Humidity sounds a little low, i'd bump it up in veg. You can be really high actually, up until you have bud you do not need to worry about it at all, keep it a balmy warm and tropical climate for veg.

LIGHT:
Well everyone will have their own opinion here. I've done it many ways and at one time adjusted the light periodically through growth stages. Now I believe the best way is to keep your light at the same height.
I'm 6"3, I use XXXL ocho's with 1K Watt Lumitec bulbs and keep them chest level around 3-4 inches under my collar bone lol.

This depends on many factors like your grow style, etc. However even if I'm doing a stringy sativa next to a squaty indica I'll still keep them at the same height.

What I'm getting at is do not adjust the lights, there's no point. No big deal if they're close or far honestly, I'll have buds sometimes that are almost touching the light.
It effects.

I like the height you have for veg, in the first picture. It's good to go for bud however you didn't top it correctly it has a lot of upwards growth, you'll want it more a little wider depending on your technique. I do in a 4X4, 6, 10 gallon smart pots in a 4X4 hydro tray in happy frog soil. The hydro-tray helps prevent over watering and gives it a nice clean look to the grow room.

What is the stain? Is this from seed? It looks like it from the pic


EDIT: I forgot to mention trimming, you'll want to eliminate a lot of the bullshit from the bottom half. Let the plant focus growth where it really counts, the higher half. If you'd like I could draw a quick diagram
 

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
That temp could be okay depending on the strain but that sounds more like a night time range, i'd bump it to around 75-85 as long as it's bumping back and forth and not a steady 85.
Humidity sounds a little low, i'd bump it up in veg. You can be really high actually, up until you have bud you do not need to worry about it at all, keep it a balmy warm and tropical climate for veg.

LIGHT:
Well everyone will have their own opinion here. I've done it many ways and at one time adjusted the light periodically through growth stages. Now I believe the best way is to keep your light at the same height.
I'm 6"3, I use XXXL ocho's with 1K Watt Lumitec bulbs and keep them chest level around 3-4 inches under my collar bone lol.

This depends on many factors like your grow style, etc. However even if I'm doing a stringy sativa next to a squaty indica I'll still keep them at the same height.

What I'm getting at is do not adjust the lights, there's no point. No big deal if they're close or far honestly, I'll have buds sometimes that are almost touching the light.
It effects.

I like the height you have for veg, in the first picture. It's good to go for bud however you didn't top it correctly it has a lot of upwards growth, you'll want it more a little wider depending on your technique. I do in a 4X4, 6, 10 gallon smart pots in a 4X4 hydro tray in happy frog soil. The hydro-tray helps prevent over watering and gives it a nice clean look to the grow room.

What is the stain? Is this from seed? It looks like it from the pic


EDIT: I forgot to mention trimming, you'll want to eliminate a lot of the bullshit from the bottom half. Let the plant focus growth where it really counts, the higher half. If you'd like I could draw a quick diagram
I flushed yesterday, they perked up a lot. SUPER dry when I took that first pic in my original post. They are from clone. you think they are ready for transplant soon?

here are some pics from today.
 

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bigbambino

Member
I have really little experience in hobby level growing so take what I saw with a grain of salt however I'd give it a little time to recover before transplanting just yet also you might be able to get away with that size pot.

What is the strain?
How many gallons?
How many days in?

Please trim the bottom up, you don't need all that small shit at the bottom, in the end it will create less quality weed, and less quantity. More bud sites are not necessarily a good thing if they're on the bottom and reaping energy from the plan. They also are prime targets for disease and pests. I could draw a diagram if you'd like to know what to trim and what not to.

You're using a pot for SEG, or a lot of plants next to each other. Are you just growing 1-2 plants? You need to switch up the method a little bit If it's one plant with that muc hroom I'd go BIG! Depending on the strain veg until it's pretty robust, top it and give it a nice size pot. You want it wide with a lot of tops dep on the stain.

You see how a lot of the growth is focused on upwards growth? If you top it will want to grow out the branches.
 

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
I have really little experience in hobby level growing so take what I saw with a grain of salt however I'd give it a little time to recover before transplanting just yet also you might be able to get away with that size pot.

What is the strain?
How many gallons?
How many days in?

Please trim the bottom up, you don't need all that small shit at the bottom, in the end it will create less quality weed, and less quantity. More bud sites are not necessarily a good thing if they're on the bottom and reaping energy from the plan. They also are prime targets for disease and pests. I could draw a diagram if you'd like to know what to trim and what not to.
It is currently in a 5X5, which it has been in for almost 3 weeks. It was in rockwool for about 15 days when it was a clone then i put it in the 5x5 (pictured). I plan on transplanting it into a 9x9 next then finally a 7gal smart pot for flowering. I plan on starting to tie it down and LST'ing it once I get it in the 9x9.

I am still getting used to the whole "when to water" thing. I feel like i have been over watering.
 

bigbambino

Member
I don't under stand a few things.

First of all if you only have one plant there is no need to throw it room to room like that. It can do very well in a 1.5' x 1.5' I doubt you're going to grow a tree indoors.

I'd redo the entire project if this is the case.

If you have these rooms I could sit down and help plan this out with you but 1 plan 2 rooms is bad math.
 

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
I don't under stand a few things.

First of all if you only have one plant there is no need to throw it room to room like that. It can do very well in a 1.5' x 1.5' I doubt you're going to grow a tree indoors.

I'd redo the entire project if this is the case.

If you have these rooms I could sit down and help plan this out with you but 1 plan 2 rooms is bad math.
I have an area for veg with a 1000mh and another area for flower with a 1000hps.....i dont understand what your trying to say? I also have 9 foot ceilings...
 

Dice Clay

Active Member
seriously stop making this overcomplicated for him! This is not a rocket science situation.. the plant is a relatively healthy plant that is just root-bound thus making it more susceptible to the light nutrient burn it is experiencing now... the transplant will be its recovery! Do not scrap anything.. do not make any huge adjustments... simply re-pot in a new neutral soil in a 2 or 3 gallon nursery pot and you will be golden in 1 week. 20% worm castings 20% perlite and 40% potting soil.... seriously guys enough with this over analysis and diaharrea of the keyboard.


good luck
 

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
seriously stop making this overcomplicated for him! This is not a rocket science situation.. the plant is a relatively healthy plant that is just root-bound thus making it more susceptible to the light nutrient burn it is experiencing now... the transplant will be its recovery! Do not scrap anything.. do not make any huge adjustments... simply re-pot in a new neutral soil in a 2 or 3 gallon nursery pot and you will be golden in 1 week. 20% worm castings 20% perlite and 40% potting soil.... seriously guys enough with this over analysis and diaharrea of the keyboard.


good luck
"sunshine aggregate plus" a good soil to use?
 

Dice Clay

Active Member
I believe it has perlite in it already right? Or should I still add more.
That is also a good one and I personally prefer Happy Frog if that is available to you. I always add more perlite to my mixes because it aerates the soil and holds moisture (and I like how the roots take to it). A good way to judge your mix is to get about a cup of it and get it moist. Squeeze it together in your hand like you are making a fist. This should compress the soil. If you can make the clump fall apart by LIGHTLY touching it with your finger tip then it is a good mix.... the point of this exercise is to see how your soil mix reacts to water. If it clumps tightly and will not break apart then roots will have a hard time penetrating and elongating. If the mix falls easily apart and is light and fluffy, then healthy and vigorous root growth will be promoted. I hope this is helpful!
 

hockey4848

Well-Known Member
That is also a good one and I personally prefer Happy Frog if that is available to you. I always add more perlite to my mixes because it aerates the soil and holds moisture (and I like how the roots take to it). A good way to judge your mix is to get about a cup of it and get it moist. Squeeze it together in your hand like you are making a fist. This should compress the soil. If you can make the clump fall apart by LIGHTLY touching it with your finger tip then it is a good mix.... the point of this exercise is to see how your soil mix reacts to water. If it clumps tightly and will not break apart then roots will have a hard time penetrating and elongating. If the mix falls easily apart and is light and fluffy, then healthy and vigorous root growth will be promoted. I hope this is helpful!
Ok thanks a ton for the info.

I flushed yesterday so it will be 3 days or so till the pot is dry. WHen is the ideal time to transplant? When I transplant I usually give it thrive alive 200-300ppm?
 

Dice Clay

Active Member
Ok thanks a ton for the info.

I flushed yesterday so it will be 3 days or so till the pot is dry. WHen is the ideal time to transplant? When I transplant I usually give it thrive alive 200-300ppm?
Do me a personal favor on this one ;) Use nothing but straight chlorine free water when watering this newly transplanted plant. I find that it is easiest to transplant when the roots are moist.. thus holding the soil neatly together. Do not feed for a week ... then post new pics of how it is doing. If you want to be walked through the transplanting process private message me and I will be glad to help
 

auldy66

Active Member
Do me a personal favor on this one ;) Use nothing but straight chlorine free water when watering this newly transplanted plant. I find that it is easiest to transplant when the roots are moist.. thus holding the soil neatly together. Do not feed for a week ... then post new pics of how it is doing. If you want to be walked through the transplanting process private message me and I will be glad to help
hey dice, hows u? I wouldnt mind being passed on this info as you create it ;)
 

bigbambino

Member
That is also a good one and I personally prefer Happy Frog if that is available to you. I always add more perlite to my mixes because it aerates the soil and holds moisture (and I like how the roots take to it). A good way to judge your mix is to get about a cup of it and get it moist. Squeeze it together in your hand like you are making a fist. This should compress the soil. If you can make the clump fall apart by LIGHTLY touching it with your finger tip then it is a good mix.... the point of this exercise is to see how your soil mix reacts to water. If it clumps tightly and will not break apart then roots will have a hard time penetrating and elongating. If the mix falls easily apart and is light and fluffy, then healthy and vigorous root growth will be promoted. I hope this is helpful!

Love this! Thanks for the tip!
 

Dice Clay

Active Member
Sorry it took so long...work and all ;)

So transplanting.... I know this is common knowledge for most growers, but because people are interested I am going to post how I transplant succesfully.. so please no nasty or rude comments.


For my soil mixture I start with Happy Frog Potting soil http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/products_soils2.html, Earth Worm Castings http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM6287003903P?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&ci_src=25356082&ci_sku=SPM6287003903&srccode=cii_184425893&cpncode=33-77196080-2, and coarse Perlite http://www.hayneedle.com/sale/hydrofarmsupercoarseperlitegrowingmedia.cfm?source=placpc&mr:trackingCode=3105E36D-6177-E111-A36F-001B21BCC0BC&mr:referralID=NA&origin=pla&kw={keyword}&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=18259771902&mr:keyword={keyword}&mr:match={matchtype}&mr:filter=43791992982&gclid=CMbqsZDIlLICFUJo4Aodb2YAQA. I mix these at a ratio of 35%-25%-25%...I prefer a nice light mixture like this, and I also prefer to add my nutrients by way of liquid fertilizer... which for beginners is easier to get a feel for without burning the plants. I like to go from a 4'' square pot to 1 gallon nursery pot to 3 gallon nursery to 5 gallon nursery. Regardless of the size of the pots these steps all apply.

Water the plant the night before as you normally would. The moisture will hold the soil and root ball together, and will minimize the amount of soil lost and transferred onto the plant when turning upside down. Fill your new pot with approx. 1/3 of its volume with your soil mix. Then place the plant being transplanted (pot and all) on top of the soil you just poured into the pot. You want the top of your plants current soil to rest about 1/2'' from the top of the pot.. usually delineated with a lip or a recess. If it is too high then remove soil from the new pot.. if too low then add until the desired height is reached. When you have the correct height, fill around the old pot until you are at the lip of the plants pot. use your fingers (not finger tips) to GENTLY compress the volume of the soil you just poured until you feel a slight resistance.... back fill again until full. Now slide the plant and its pot out of the filled soil. You will have a nice mold of your plants root structure to plop it into ;) Take some perlite and sprinkle it in the new hole.. this will be a nice start for the roots to spread into. Now is the scary part! Loosen the soil by gently squeezing the sides of the pot all around and evenly.. especially if there are sharp corners, as in the case of a square pot. Place your fingers flat against the top of the soil with the stem between your middle and 3rd finger. Make sure you are covering all of the surface area of the plants soil and turn it upside down. Gently coax the plant out of its old home, and when you have it free of its old pot, gently bring your other hand up to the root ball to stabilize it while you turn it right side up and place it in the pre-made hole. Press gently down around the stalk of the plant and back fill the pot with an inch of soil. Compress the topsoil as you did earlier. Water lightly and only on the outer perimiter of the pot... where the new soil is... this will encourage roots growing in search of moisture.

Good luck and happy farming y'all ;)
DICE
 
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