Nute defiency (Miracle Grow Soil)

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
Woops, put this in GENERAL before, now I see there is a specific part of the forum for "Marijuana Plant Probs"... My bad.

I checked the sticky on here, as well as the FAQs page of this site.. Was unable to find anything that resembled my issue... Here it is:



First let me say I know using this soil is wrong, I understand and I never will again regardless if this is the issue or not. So please refrain from bombing my thread with anti-miracle grow propaganda.

Plan of attack: when transplanting into 1.5gal pot I will be using better soil. Any suggestions?

QUESTION: Look at the leafs pointing at 4 o'clock and 7 o'clock. They have a slight discoloration in spots. Kind of a slight brown. Is this specifically due to using the Miracle Grow "3 month feeding" crap?... Or is there something else I should be looking into?

Just trying to figure out if I need to look past that option.


Thanks a ton.



For those who may not under stand 4 olock and 7 oclock. :)



And for good measure:


It almost looks like it's "RAW".. like after you fall off your bike and get skin scraped off.
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
to me, it appears to be early signs of the inevitable upcoming nute burn-see the bunching of the leaf intermarginally/intervenielly? the 'raw' spots will be dead patches tomm or the next day depending on your lights.

ooooohhhhhhh-dAnger, dAnger, crichy mates-mg is some baaaaaaddd stuff.
 

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
to me, it appears to be early signs of the inevitable upcoming nute burn-see the bunching of the leaf intermarginally/intervenielly? the 'raw' spots will be dead patches tomm or the next day depending on your lights.

ooooohhhhhhh-dAnger, dAnger, crichy mates-mg is some baaaaaaddd stuff.
Do you think transplanting into Foxfarm soil.... and kind of clearing away in dirt from the miracle grow would rid that problem well?
 

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
Guess ill hit the hydro store tonight... They close at 6 which means traffic time.. Son of a...

thanks for the heads up brah.
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
np, bra. you are doing yourself a BIG favor. nice avatar-funny thing I just seen a wolf spider that same size on my floor. I wonder if they eat caterpillars.

as for ES, I agree humididty cause that shriveled leaf look but not the scarring of the leaves like that.
 

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
My humidity is at 55%... What should it be at?

My avatar is suppose to be a "white widow".. Trying to rep my plants. ha
 

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
ok thanks.. I will deal with the soil situation first and then look into humidity (since that will be slightly more difficult for me to achieve another 15% humidity).
 

E S

New Member
I like MG soil. I use the moisture control and get no problems even with my light feeding sativas. If the leaves are burning its cuz the RH is so low that all the water in the leaf is evaporating so quickly that the plant can't take up water from the roots to replace it fast enough. If the plants are looking perky at lights on and then sag a few hours before lights out... that's your problem.
 

E S

New Member
Don't even waste your time and money with new soil, just get your environment in check and grow a healthy plant.
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
did you make it to the store? home depot sells a thermometer with a humidity gauge on it for like 5 bucks. unless you leave near the equator or the north or south poles, your humidity is more than likely within tolerance.
 

icurbyou

Well-Known Member
did you make it to the store? home depot sells a thermometer with a humidity gauge on it for like 5 bucks. unless you leave near the equator or the north or south poles, your humidity is more than likely within tolerance.
I have a digital thermometer than reads temps and humidity. Thats how I knew my humidity :)

I havent gotten to the hydro shop yet. I am at work still :)
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
sorry bra, didn't see that you already posted your humidity. anyway, here is some info on humidity:
Marijuana flourishes through a wide range of relative humidity. It can grow in an atmosphere as dry as a desert or as moist as a jungle. Under ordinary household conditions, the humidity will rarely be too extreme for healthy growth. The effects of the humidity on plant growth are closely tied to temperature, win speed, and the moisture of the soil.
The relative humidity affects the rate of the plant's transpiration. With high humidity, water evaporates from the leaves more slowly; transpiration slows, and growth slows also. With low humidity, water evaporates rapidly; the plant may not be able to absorb water fast enough to maintain an equilibrium and will protect itself from dehydration by closing its stomata. This slows the transpiration rate and growth also slows. There is a noticeable slowing of growth because of humidity only when the humidity stays at an extreme (less then 20 percent or over 90 percent).
Cannabis seems to respond best through a range of 40 to 80 percent relative humidity. You should protect the plants from the direct outflow of a heater or air conditioner, both of which give off very dry air. During the first few weeks of growth, the plants are especially susceptible to a dry atmosphere. If this is a problem, loosely enclose the garden with aluminum foil, white sheet plastic, or other materials. This will trap some of the transpired moisture and raise the humidity in the garden. Once the seedlings are growing well, the drier household atmosphere is preferred.
Where the humidity is consistently over 80 percent, the plants may develop stem rot or grow more slowly. Good air circulation from open windows or a small fan is the best solution.
As long as the air is freely circulating, the plants will grow well at higher humidities. Dehumidifiers are expensive (over $100) and an extravagance.
Humidity and Potency
As far as we know, there has been little work done correlating the relative humidity with potency. In the two related cases we've seen, 85, 117 neither study was intended to examine the effects of relative humidity and potency. However, a lower humidity (50 to 70 percent) produced slightly more potent plants than a higher relative humidity (80 percent and over).
A dry atmosphere seems to produce more potent plants. When the humidity is about 50 percent or less, plant development is more compact, and the leaves have thinner blades. When the atmosphere is humid, growth is taller and the leaves luxuriant with wider blades. The advantage to the plant is that wider blades have more surface and hence can transpire more water. The converse is that thinner blades help conserve water. Higher potency may simply be due to less leaf tissue for a given amount of cannabinoids and resin glands.
The temperature also influences the form and size of the leaves. At higher temperatures, the leaves grow closer together; under a cool regime, the leaves are larger, have wider blades, and are spaced farther apart 77. Possibly, cool temperatures yield slightly lower potency for much the same reason that a moist atmosphere does.
However, differences in potency caused by any of the growth factors (light nutrients, water, temperature, humidity, etc.) are small compared to differences caused by the variety (heredity) and full maturation (expression of heredity). For example, the humidity in Jamaica, Colombia, Thailand, and many other countries associated with fine marijuana is relatively high and averages about 80 percent.
However, try to keep the atmosphere dry. The atmosphere in heated or air-conditioned homes is already dry (usually 15 to 40 percent). For this reason, many growers sow so that the plants mature during the winter if the home is heated or in mid-summer if it is air-conditioned. As we mentioned, there should be no need to use dehumidifiers. Good air circulation and raising the temperature to 75 to 80F are the simplest means of dealing with high humidity.
 
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