Offering Electrical / Control Circuit / Programming Help

Overcomplicatotron

Overcomplicatotron

Member
Axion42 said:
View attachment 4315622 View attachment 4315621

I know this isn't as fun as building and coding your own but this has been on clearance for a few weeks now to anyone interested
https://m.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=747+6780+4699&pcatid=4699

I know the picture shows an ORP controller but that's incorrect, I called to verify before I purchased. All you need are a couple dosing pumps and a box and you're set.
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Nice find.

There's a lot of stuff like this out there:
https://www.ebay.com/i/263669769197?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=52126894da384681b0b69abb588a58dd&pid=100677&rk=10&rkt=27&mehot=pp&sd=132432881832&itm=263669769197

I'll order one and see if it stays accurate for more than a few days of being submerged in a solution. It doesn't have to be lab-grade... Just basement-grade. I'm down there every day anyway, I don't mind calibrating once a week.

That and one of these (or something similar) monitoring a reservoir would be a fun project:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DFROBOT-Sensor-water-quality-TDS-3-3-5VDC-Kit-module-cables-probe-Breakout/113698812150?epid=6030995607&hash=item1a78fa30f6:g:U38AAOSwDXxcmnEN
 
Overcomplicatotron

Overcomplicatotron

Member
My programming is still old school though, I am quite comfortable with plain machine language and old PIC processors.
Click to expand...
If you program PICs and machine language you'd have no problem getting into Arduino programming... Simple C / C++ libraries are usually already written for a ton of peripherals.
 
Axion42

Axion42

Well-Known Member
Overcomplicatotron said:
Nice find.

There's a lot of stuff like this out there:
https://www.ebay.com/i/263669769197?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=52126894da384681b0b69abb588a58dd&pid=100677&rk=10&rkt=27&mehot=pp&sd=132432881832&itm=263669769197

I'll order one and see if it stays accurate for more than a few days of being submerged in a solution. It doesn't have to be lab-grade... Just basement-grade. I'm down there every day anyway, I don't mind calibrating once a week.

That and one of these (or something similar) monitoring a reservoir would be a fun project:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DFROBOT-Sensor-water-quality-TDS-3-3-5VDC-Kit-module-cables-probe-Breakout/113698812150?epid=6030995607&hash=item1a78fa30f6:g:U38AAOSwDXxcmnEN
Click to expand...
I started looking into the arduino builds but I figured I would just make it simple rather than learning something totally new. But that stuff looks fun as hell building and tinkering.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Overcomplicatotron said:
If you program PICs and machine language you'd have no problem getting into Arduino programming... Simple C / C++ libraries are usually already written for a ton of peripherals.
Click to expand...
Thats what I thought, but really, assembly language is a very simple beast, especially with the more simple chips. There are only a number of basic commands and basically everything is as simple as addressing pins telling them if they are being used as an input or output, and then reading values from or to there from locations in memory.

C+ etc. frustrates me sooo much. I know it should be so much easier. I haven't actually done anything in the last 5 years even if I have to be honest... my goals kept on shifting to getting back into growing to the extent I still have parts collections for projects I forgot I designed.
 
Overcomplicatotron

Overcomplicatotron

Member
C+ etc. frustrates me sooo much. I know it should be so much easier. I haven't actually done anything in the last 5 years even if I have to be honest... my goals kept on shifting to getting back into growing to the extent I still have parts collections for projects I forgot I designed
Click to expand...
Ha!

I understand what your saying... Just going from C to C++ is frustrating enough. I could imagine assembly being easier to manipulate bitfields and stuff, but when it comes to real-time operating systems and communication protocols and stuff like that, I couldn't imagine doing that at the assembly level.

If you're at all interested in getting a little better I can point you in the right direction if you ever get hung up on something.

To anyone else that might be lurking in here:

If you were waiting for me to get a cool automated system documented you will unfortunately be waiting until about July, I just got a simple setup going now to keep my summer crop happy until outdoor time, and I have my hands pretty full right now. Then I am getting married in June... Once I get my babes outside for outdoor season I have some fun plans for my indoor setup, and I will document every step of the process.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I've been looking for people to work with on building out a light, if anyone wants to be a part of it, check out my thread "New Light," it's in my sig. PM me or drop a comment!

Working on a light with FLIR and other sensors to be managed wirelessly and control a junction box with 4-5 outlets meant for ac, heater, exhaust, ect.

Scheduling is what I've been waiting to tackle. Idk how hard or how easy it will be but I've been dragging my feet on it lol.. If you're a guy with a bit of know how, drop a comment or PM me, I would rather collaborate with someone or multiple people then do it all solo.. I'm just getting into the programming side and not an expert by any means..
 
Timezone

Timezone

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
Looks like 30A relays on the box, cool, noticed the basic sonoffs are only 10A I think
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I think you're right. Most smart switches that I considered were rated 10A with a few rated at 12A. That's why I built my own.

Here's a photo of the one I'm using (on the left) next to another that I bought that had 30A relays, but a 10A terminal strip.
P5020230.JPG

The terminal strip on the one I'm using is rated at 25A and I added wiring to beef up the copper traces and insulate with a hot melt glue gun.
P5020233.JPG

They are pricey at ~$10.00 but come with their own power supply (on board) and a switch to change from high to low triggering... and they should last a good while.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Timezone said:
I think you're right. Most smart switches that I considered were rated 10A with a few rated at 12A. That's why I built my own.

Here's a photo of the one I'm using (on the left) next to another that I bought that had 30A relays, but a 10A terminal strip.
View attachment 4327052

The terminal strip on the one I'm using is rated at 25A and I added wiring to beef up the copper traces and insulate with a hot melt glue gun.
View attachment 4327056

They are pricey at ~$10.00 but come with their own power supply (on board) and a switch to change from high to low triggering... and they should last a good while.
Click to expand...
Haha that's an interesting way of beefing up the traces! I've never seen that before! :bigjoint:
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
A low power smart switch isn't a problem, you can just use it to switch another stronger relay
Click to expand...
Yea, a smart switch could trigger his 30A relay module. Idk what esp they put in sonoffs (or if it's an esp), but a $2 esp8266 is tough to beat.

@Timezone is the (transformer + cap) to boost the esp8266 signal, or what signal? Or are you using the esp8266 to switch a separate power supply cct for switching the relay module?
 
Overcomplicatotron

Overcomplicatotron

Member
A low power smart switch isn't a problem, you can just use it to switch anotherstronger relay
Click to expand...
That's the way I like to do it. I grab a 3-5vdc coil hobby relay from online that claims to have like 5-10 amp capacity, and I use those to switch appropriately sized relay or contactors for the load I'm dealing with.

One of the best websites in the world:
https://www.mcmaster.com/control-relays

McMaster can get you almost anything you need in 24 hours... Such a great company.
 
Timezone

Timezone

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
@Timezone is the (transformer + cap) to boost the esp8266 signal, or what signal? Or are you using the esp8266 to switch a separate power supply cct for switching the relay module?
Click to expand...
The (transformer + cap) thing is a 120VAC to 5VDC power supply. There are 2 of them, 1 to power the esp and one that comes on the relay board to power them. Two pins on the esp control the 2 relays which control the 2 outlets individually. (This is the equivalent of 2 - 15A smart switches that are on a local network)
 
A

Apalchen

Well-Known Member
I just made a post then saw this. Not as advanced as you guys with electric. I need to figure out the best way to wire up 4 gavitas to one 240 breaker. Autopilot sells a box that is for 4 lights but on super lumens I’m over max amps. And the upgrade to 8 lighter is little more pricey. I also don’t need the timer function of those boxes as I have the gavitas controller. Any ideas for a cheap but safe way to wire 4 outlets on one 240 circuit. I only have 4 spots in breaker panel open so 2 (dual pole) for the mini split and hopefully can get by with the other for lights as I’m running out of money and was trying to avoid buying a subpanel.
 
Overcomplicatotron

Overcomplicatotron

Member
Which Gavita Model?

The Pro 1000 DE uses about 4.5 - 5.5 amps at 240.

5.5 amps x 4 lights x 1.2 (20% derated) = 26.4 amps

There is a bunch to consider... Giving vague electrical advice on here kinda sketches me out... I don't want anyone getting hurt. Shoot me a PM with more details and I can give you more specific instructions.
 
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