They're looking great man, how tall/big are they?
Thanks! I just went out to measure them; the tallest is 44", the shortest 21", and most are between 25-35". There is a lot of variation, and they are a bit over-crowded... there were just so many strains I wanted to grow!They're looking great man, how tall/big are they?
Having the variety is awesome, we should all have as many different strains as we have spices in the kitchen cabinet . Thanks for making a special trip to measure things, you didn't have to do that. I was just being curious since mine are about the same age and were brought up outdoor/then greenhouse.there were just so many strains I wanted to grow!
I went with 3 gal plastic, anticipating roughly 3 months of life cycle. Sadly, other issues that I didn't foresee, rendered my experiment useless. I'll just have to try indoor to see if FFOF amended with EWC and Dr.Earth will suffice for 3 months water only in 3 gal.I doubt I'll ever bother with small pots again.
I think that if you grow them under an 18/6 (or less) light cycle and keep the temps on the cooler side (low 70's), they could be OK. The guys on AFN who are doing water only grows are working with living soil, they (in my opinion) go to great lengths to build it, and it seems to take a bigger pot to carry a plant full term.I went with 3 gal plastic, anticipating roughly 3 months of life cycle. Sadly, other issues that I didn't foresee, rendered my experiment useless. I'll just have to try indoor to see if FFOF amended with EWC and Dr.Earth will suffice for 3 months water only in 3 gal.
Perhaps even 70% is just too high? You think they are perspiring a lot so in those wee crevasses it’ll be more humid than the room. Add on a couple of cooler nights it’ll get very moist very fast in those colas.I'm not sure what the deal is, but with zero rain all summer I've been losing top buds lately to bud rot. Humidity has been pretty low in the daytime, getting down mostly into the mid-to-low 40%'s, nights only seem to be getting up into the mid-70% range. For me the biggest reason to grow autos outdoors is to finish the season before the cold/wet/moldy fall weather arrives. To get hit with mold during a dry summer in July/August... kinda sucks. And as a side note, it's not worms, the bug screen I use has kept the moths out and there are no worms in sight. This is straight up rot.
It could be genetics, but I can't rule out "operator error", I could be doing something wrong. Two were Dutch Passion and had large dense buds, one was a Mephisto, also with very dense buds. I've grown dense buds outside without mold before. I've also been hit with mold, plenty of times, but never in the middle of a dry summer.
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Thanks for the thoughts. I hope I get to the bottom of it so that I do learn something.Perhaps even 70% is just too high? You think they are perspiring a lot so in those wee crevasses it’ll be more humid than the room. Add on a couple of cooler nights it’ll get very moist very fast in those colas.
The only two solutions going forward I can see would be more air flow at night and topping them to get rid of that single main cola which is most prone to rot.
Sucks balls man that you have to learn the hard way
Good thoughts. It's about 60% just bug screen walls, just the lower part of the walls (wood) and the top cover (clear plastic) don't let air through. It's not a true greenhouse, it's not even close to sealed, so I can't really force air through it. That was all part of the experiment. In the end, I was able to control the temps, but the humidity seems to be another thing. I'll rebuild it next year.First thing I would try is increasing the airflow and it is not enough to just move it around. You need to remove it. I have a glass greenhouse and it gets to 100F in the heat of the day. But if I turn on the fan with the vent open it drops a bit but humidity drops quite a bit more than temp. I figure that if you are not removing air you are just move damp air around. Just a thought.
That's true. I'll keep cutting away the moldy bits, and see what happens. Some plants are not affected at all, so I'm also learning about which strains are more mold resistant. That's good info.That's the thing about experiments man, they don't always work out. Hope you can still get your effort's worth out of the grow.
Thanks man!Beautiful plant!
When you say the 'top half' is starting to ripen, do you ever harvest the top when it's done and leave the bottom to ripen up more?
This is interesting to me for a number of reasons.I like the subtle variation in high between top and lower buds.
I always find the top buds to be more sedative and stronger. The lower ones tend to be less strong and more uplifting.This is interesting to me for a number of reasons.
How would you describe the most common subtle variations in the high between the top and lower buds? And if you let the tops go for a while before you cut them, how much amber would you say is showing, vs. the bottoms?
Thanks for clarifying. As a non-smoker/grower I'm kind of on the outside looking in. With most of my outdoor grows over the years, between bugs and mold I've had to take many of the plants down in varying degrees of not-fully-ready, and I've always been concerned about what the impact was. Your description tracks with others I've read, and with information I've read about THC and terpene development through the flowering stages.I always find the top buds to be more sedative and stronger. The lower ones tend to be less strong and more uplifting.
Hard to for sure how many is amber.. id stab a guess at around 15% top buds compared to the odd one on the lower part