Organic experts, how do I learn what you know?

Buggins

Active Member
I'm in the process of making the switch to 100% organic growing, and thanks to a few very helpful people around here who are generous with their time, I've recently made up my first batch of organic soil.

However, instead of always having to always ask others for help and bothering them with the same questions they hear day in and day out (I don't know how guys like Subcool can stand it, they really have tremendous patience), I would really like to learn more about the specific nutritional requirements of the Cannabis plant so I can learn to make my own soils based on the ingredients that I have available to me locally.

Basically, I'm not content to be able to just read a recipe like what Subcool has created for us. I want to be able to know why he has chosen the ingredients he's chosen, and how to calculate the correct amounts.

Corbat420 was kind enough to put together the following organic soil recipe for me based on what I could get locally.

20 gallons of organic potting soil
5 gallons perlite
5 cups worm castings
150 ML Bat Guano
150 ML Fish bone meal
300 ML rock phosphate
300 ML Green Sand
400 ML Blood Meal
250 ML Dolomite lime
250 ML Epsom salts

I can't express how much I appreciate guys like Corbat420 and Subcool taking the time to help us with out by creating these soil recipes, and not to mention for putting up with the never-ending barrage of questions that get asked over and over again.

However, I'm embarrassed to say it, but I have no clue what most of the above ingredients do, and why they are being used in the specific amounts that they are. For example, many of us know that earth worm castings are great for cannabis, but how many of us really know their purpose in an organic soil mix? Do they provide beneficial bacteria? Are they a source of nitrogen? Or are they simply an inert medium that provides good water retention and ph buffering abilities?

I think if more of us had a better understanding of the unique nutritional requirements of cannabis throughout it's various stages of growth, there would be a lot fewer threads like "Hey Subcool, I can't find earthworm castings, help!" or "Hey Subcool, do I really need humic acid?"

So the question is, where do I start? Any suggested sites or books that will help me learn more about growing organic cannabis?
 

mr.bond

Well-Known Member
Hey Buggins,

I'm not a organic horticultural genius, or anything close to that, but it seems that you are on the right track already. a little in-depth research could help take you to the next level.

think about the phases of marijuana growth -- veg and flower -- and how their needs change during different times of those phases. think about the 16 nutrients necessary to make marijuana flourish. what do we need for veg? healthy foilage, explosive rooting, no deficiencies/lockouts...

Primary Nutrients
- Nitrogen (N)
- Phosphorus (P)
- Potassium (K)

Secondary Nutrients
- Sulphur
- Magnesium
- Calcium

Trace Nutrients
- Boron
- Copper
- Zinc
- Iron
- Molybdenum
- Manganese
- Sodium
- Chlorine
- Silicon
- Cobalt

now a bit of research on the ingredients you listed. they all do different things. do you want slow time-release ingredients or 'fast-acting'? do you want a thriving biological ecosystem in your mix? dig deep my friend, the answers are there. once you gather the pieces of the puzzle its not too difficult to assemble it.

for example, the potting soil would be your medium. add some perlite for drainage and to give area for beneficial bacteria and fungi to colonize. bat guano is high in N & P when broken down (there are variations of bat guano also, with fertilizing differences). dolomite lime helps maintain a stable pH, and also provides plenty of Ca and Mg for the grow. worm castings would be your main added source of beneficial bacteria and fungi. you get the idea... the molasses and water at feeding time keeps the soil moist, the microbes alive, and the plant system thriving.

i dont know too many books to recommend but there are some good ones out there. for you, i'd look for ones that go in depth on fertilization. i did read 'Teaming with Microbes - A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web' by Jeff Lowenfels & Wayne Lewis. its a book that gives tremendous insight into how soil ecosystems work, how to take care of them, and optimize them for the environment you want to create. might be worth a read if you are information-hungry.

well hopefully i was able to give you a bit of a jump start. i am nowhere near an expert but im always game for good discussion. cheers and good luck buggins

mr.bond
 

elduece

Active Member
Hey Buggins,............................
i dont know too many books to recommend but there are some good ones out there. for you, i'd look for ones that go in depth on fertilization. i did read 'Teaming with Microbes - A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web' by Jeff Lowenfels & Wayne Lewis. its a book that gives tremendous insight into how soil ecosystems work, how to take care of them, and optimize them for the environment you want to create. might be worth a read if you are information-hungry.

well hopefully i was able to give you a bit of a jump start. i am nowhere near an expert but im always game for good discussion. cheers and good luck buggins

mr.bond
REad the entire book more than 5x and your world will become much smaller.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Start with Teaming, read that several times.
Then check out microbeorganics.com if you are really into the life aspect of soil organics.
Truth is, marijuana is plant, a very fast growing annual that has potential to make many pounds of biomass per plant per season. This kind of plant requires as much or more food than a typical food garden. This means ample NPK, and Ca/Mg, also the micros. In your mix the NPK is from blood meal, bat guano, fish and rock phos. Depending on the guano source it may be high N or high P. The Ca/Mg is from lime and epsom. The micros are in the EWC and potting soil. The greensand has iron potassium silicate, which contributes K to the mix, also Si and Fe. Perlite is for air. I think thats your whole mix. I would have a micronutrient supplement on hand incase of need. My favorite is a humic acid/micro blend called TM-7 from www.bioag.com
 

Buggins

Active Member
Thanks for the tips fellas, appreciate it. I've been doing a lot of reading lately, and I'm starting to get a much better understanding of things. I will check out those resources you mentioned. I've also started working with teas and supplementing my waterings with dilute compost tea each watering. The first thing I noticed his how incredibly fast my roots are growing. When growing with chems, I could repot, and it would be 4 weeks before I would start to see any major root growth in the bottom of the new pot. Since this switch to organics and tea, I repotted my seedlings into 1 gallon containers, and they were absolutely packed with roots in less than a week, huge, thick, white roots. Incredible!

One thing I'm still trying to understand is how to calculate the appropriate volumes of fertilizer to use.

What I've been trying to figure out is how much of each of the nutrients the plants require in grams per week. I figure I can use commercial feeding schedules from a company like general hydroponics, and break it down into how many grams of nitrogen, phos, potassium, etc their schedules provide each week. Using this, I could then determine what I should need in organics by doing some calculations to find the equivalent volumes in organic nutrients.

Haven't quite figured this out yet mind you, and maybe it's not as simple as I'm thinking. I heard somewhere that organics are far more useable by the plant, and therefore need far less concentrations when compared to chemical salts.
 
Thank you for getting this started im currently trying to do the same thing. Learn everything about everything that has to do with organics for this plant. All i keep reading is the soil is the most important thing. So time to really break it down and understand what my little friends are growing in! I just switched to 100% Organics unfortuntly running the GO line right now no space to make tea but SOON!!! Good luck with your new venture! stop by and check mine out if you have time! Thank you again!
 

bob harris

Well-Known Member
See how your strain does with this soil mix..then adjust. One thing I've learned with organics, is that I can get much better with a strain after growing it a few times. Every strain seems to have different 'ideals" for nutes, soil and watering.
 

mr.bond

Well-Known Member
buggins,

i agree with bob, the easiest way to know what nutrients your plant wants is by watching it and seeing the signs. it wont be an exact science like what you are thinking about doing, but get a couple rounds in with the same strain and youll be able to tell when she wants more N, or when she needs more Mg because of a higher P, etc. many strains act differently in this aspect, just like how some strains can take 2000ppm and others stress after 800ppm.

about the appropriate volumes of fertilizer, you could always start with equal parts of your list of ingredients and see what your particular strain wants more of or has too much of and adjust your formula accordingly, but that might be going back to basics. the ratios set up by corbat and subcool are heavy handed with experience... definitely start there and see what she wants :) make sure you use lots of bennies!

cheers mate
mr.bond
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
I'm in the process of making the switch to 100% organic growing, and thanks to a few very helpful people around here who are generous with their time, I've recently made up my first batch of organic soil.

However, instead of always having to always ask others for help and bothering them with the same questions they hear day in and day out (I don't know how guys like Subcool can stand it, they really have tremendous patience), I would really like to learn more about the specific nutritional requirements of the Cannabis plant so I can learn to make my own soils based on the ingredients that I have available to me locally.

Basically, I'm not content to be able to just read a recipe like what Subcool has created for us. I want to be able to know why he has chosen the ingredients he's chosen, and how to calculate the correct amounts.

Corbat420 was kind enough to put together the following organic soil recipe for me based on what I could get locally.

20 gallons of organic potting soil
5 gallons perlite
5 cups worm castings ??? THIS SHOULD BE 20% OF YOUR TOTAL MIX, wc will not do any damage.
150 ML Bat Guano
150 ML Fish bone meal
300 ML rock phosphate
300 ML Green Sand
400 ML Blood Meal
250 ML Dolomite lime
250 ML Epsom salts

I can't express how much I appreciate guys like Corbat420 and Subcool taking the time to help us with out by creating these soil recipes, and not to mention for putting up with the never-ending barrage of questions that get asked over and over again.

However, I'm embarrassed to say it, but I have no clue what most of the above ingredients do, and why they are being used in the specific amounts that they are. For example, many of us know that earth worm castings are great for cannabis, but how many of us really know their purpose in an organic soil mix? Do they provide beneficial bacteria? Are they a source of nitrogen? Or are they simply an inert medium that provides good water retention and ph buffering abilities?

I think if more of us had a better understanding of the unique nutritional requirements of cannabis throughout it's various stages of growth, there would be a lot fewer threads like "Hey Subcool, I can't find earthworm castings, help!" or "Hey Subcool, do I really need humic acid?"

So the question is, where do I start? Any suggested sites or books that will help me learn more about growing organic cannabis?
First read up on worn castings, I have used them for 10 years and about 6 months ago Subcool added them to his mix.

I don't like using Dolomite lime or Epsom salts unless you are going to age your soil, I don't use them at all. I would also swap out the perlite for something like Sunshine or ProMix this will give you less compaction when mixed with garden soil. Find yourself a local organic supply place like this one I use http://www.homesteadorganics.ca/default.aspx they mix custom nutrients for me and have everything. Have a look at the products and what they do for the plants.

Welcome to the neighborhood.....
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
WHAT IS PLANT NUTRITION?

Plants use inorganic minerals for nutrition, whether grown in the field or in a container. Complex interactions involving weathering of rock minerals, decaying organic matter, animals, and microbes take place to form inorganic minerals in soil. Roots absorb mineral nutrients as ions in soil water. Many factors influence nutrient uptake for plants. Ions can be readily available to roots or could be "tied up" by other elements or the soil itself. Soil too high in pH (alkaline) or too low (acid) makes minerals unavailable to plants.

FERTILITY OR NUTRITION

The term "fertility" refers to the inherent capacity of a soil to supply nutrients to plants in adequate amounts and in suitable proportions. The term "nutrition" refers to the interrelated steps by which a living organism assimilates food and uses it for growth and replacement of tissue. Previously, plant growth was thought of in terms of soil fertility or how much fertilizer should be added to increase soil levels of mineral elements. Most fertilizers were formulated to account for deficiencies of mineral elements in the soil. The use of soilless mixes and increased research in nutrient cultures and hydroponics as well as advances in plant tissue analysis have led to a broader understanding of plant nutrition. Plant nutrition is a term that takes into account the interrelationships of mineral elements in the soil or soilless solution as well as their role in plant growth. This interrelationship involves a complex balance of mineral elements essential and beneficial for optimum plant growth.

ESSENTIAL VERSUS BENEFICIAL

The term essential mineral element (or mineral nutrient) was proposed by Arnon and Stout (1939). They concluded three criteria must be met for an element to be considered essential. These criteria are: 1. A plant must be unable to complete its life cycle in the absence of the mineral element. 2. The function of the element must not be replaceable by another mineral element. 3. The element must be directly involved in plant metabolism. These criteria are important guidelines for plant nutrition but exclude beneficial mineral elements. Beneficial elements are those that can compensate for toxic effects of other elements or may replace mineral nutrients in some other less specific function such as the maintenance of osmotic pressure. The omission of beneficial nutrients in commercial production could mean that plants are not being grown to their optimum genetic potential but are merely produced at a subsistence level. This discussion of plant nutrition includes both the essential and beneficial mineral elements.

WHAT ARE THE MINERAL ELEMENTS?

There are actually 20 mineral elements necessary or beneficial for plant growth. Carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O) are supplied by air and water. The six macronutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S) are required by plants in large amounts. The rest of the elements are required in trace amounts (micronutrients). Essential trace elements include boron (B), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), sodium (Na), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), and nickel (Ni). Beneficial mineral elements include silicon (Si) and cobalt (Co). The beneficial elements have not been deemed essential for all plants but may be essential for some. The distinction between beneficial and essential is often difficult in the case of some trace elements. Cobalt for instance is essential for nitrogen fixation in legumes. It may also inhibit ethylene formation (Samimy, 1970) and extend the life of cut roses (Venkatarayappa et al., 1980). Silicon, deposited in cell walls, has been found to improve heat and drought tolerance and increase resistance to insects and fungal infections. Silicon, acting as a beneficial element, can help compensate for toxic levels of manganese, iron, phosphorus and aluminum as well as zinc deficiency. A more holistic approach to plant nutrition would not be limited to nutrients essential to survival but would include mineral elements at levels beneficial for optimum growth. With developments in analytical chemistry and the ability to eliminate contaminants in nutrient cultures, the list of essential elements may well increase in the future.

THE MINERAL ELEMENTS IN PLANT PRODUCTION

The use of soil for greenhouse production before the 1960s was common. Today a few growers still use soil in their mixes. The bulk of production is in soilless mixes. Soilless mixes must provide support, aeration, nutrient and moisture retention just as soils do, but the addition of fertilizers or nutrients are different. Many soilless mixes have calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, sulfur, nitrogen, potassium and some micronutrients incorporated as a pre-plant fertilizer. Nitrogen and potassium still must be applied to the crop during production. Difficulty in blending a homogenous mix using pre-plant fertilizers may often result in uneven crops and possible toxic or deficient levels of nutrients. Soilless mixes that require addition of micro and macronutrients applied as liquid throughout the growth of the crop, may actually give the grower more control of his crop. To achieve optimum production, the grower can adjust nutrient levels to compensate for other environmental factors during the growing season. The absorption of mineral ions is dependent on a number of factors in addition to weather conditions. These include the cation exchange capacity or CEC and the pH or relative amount of hydrogen (H+) or hydroxyl ions (OH-) of the growing medium, and the total alkalinity of the irrigation water.

CEC OR CATION EXCHANGE CAPACITY

The Cation Exchange Capacity refers to the ability of the growing medium to hold exchangeable mineral elements within its structure. These cations include ammonium nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc and copper. Peat moss and mixes containing bark, sawdust and other organic materials all have some level of cation exchange capacity.

pH: WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

The term pH refers to the alkalinity or acidity of a growing media water solution. This solution consists of mineral elements dissolved in ionic form in water. The reaction of this solution whether it is acid, neutral or alkaline will have a marked effect on the availability of mineral elements to plant roots. When there is a greater amount of hydrogen H+ ions the solution will be acid (<7.0). If there is more hydroxyl OH- ions the solution will be alkaline (>7.0). A balance of hydrogen to hydroxyl ions yields a pH neutral soil (=7.0). The range for most crops is 5.5 to 6.2 or slightly acidic. This creates the greatest average level for availability for all essential plant nutrients. Extreme fluctuations of higher or lower pH can cause deficiency or toxicity of nutrients.

THE ELEMENTS OF COMPLETE PLANT NUTRITION

The following is a brief guideline of the role of essential and beneficial mineral nutrients that are crucial for growth. Eliminate any one of these elements, and plants will display abnormalities of growth, deficiency symptoms, or may not reproduce normally.

Macronutrients

Nitrogen is a major component of proteins, hormones, chlorophyll, vitamins and enzymes essential for plant life. Nitrogen metabolism is a major factor in stem and leaf growth (vegetative growth). Too much can delay flowering and fruiting. Deficiencies can reduce yields, cause yellowing of the leaves and stunt growth.

Phosphorus is necessary for seed germination, photosynthesis, protein formation and almost all aspects of growth and metabolism in plants. It is essential for flower and fruit formation. Low pH (<4) results in phosphate being chemically locked up in organic soils. Deficiency symptoms are purple stems and leaves; maturity and growth are retarded. Yields of fruit and flowers are poor. Premature drop of fruits and flowers may often occur. Phosphorus must be applied close to the plant's roots in order for the plant to utilize it. Large applications of phosphorus without adequate levels of zinc can cause a zinc deficiency.

Potassium is necessary for formation of sugars, starches, carbohydrates, protein synthesis and cell division in roots and other parts of the plant. It helps to adjust water balance, improves stem rigidity and cold hardiness, enhances flavor and color on fruit and vegetable crops, increases the oil content of fruits and is important for leafy crops. Deficiencies result in low yields, mottled, spotted or curled leaves, scorched or burned look to leaves.

Sulfur is a structural component of amino acids, proteins, vitamins and enzymes and is essential to produce chlorophyll. It imparts flavor to many vegetables. Deficiencies show as light green leaves. Sulfur is readily lost by leaching from soils and should be applied with a nutrient formula. Some water supplies may contain Sulfur.

Magnesium is a critical structural component of the chlorophyll molecule and is necessary for functioning of plant enzymes to produce carbohydrates, sugars and fats. It is used for fruit and nut formation and essential for germination of seeds. Deficient plants appear chlorotic, show yellowing between veins of older leaves; leaves may droop. Magnesium is leached by watering and must be supplied when feeding. It can be applied as a foliar spray to correct deficiencies.

Calcium activates enzymes, is a structural component of cell walls, influences water movement in cells and is necessary for cell growth and division. Some plants must have calcium to take up nitrogen and other minerals. Calcium is easily leached. Calcium, once deposited in plant tissue, is immobile (non-translocatable) so there must be a constant supply for growth. Deficiency causes stunting of new growth in stems, flowers and roots. Symptoms range from distorted new growth to black spots on leaves and fruit. Yellow leaf margins may also appear.

Micronutrients

Iron is necessary for many enzyme functions and as a catalyst for the synthesis of chlorophyll. It is essential for the young growing parts of plants. Deficiencies are pale leaf color of young leaves followed by yellowing of leaves and large veins. Iron is lost by leaching and is held in the lower portions of the soil structure. Under conditions of high pH (alkaline) iron is rendered unavailable to plants. When soils are alkaline, iron may be abundant but unavailable. Applications of an acid nutrient formula containing iron chelates, held in soluble form, should correct the problem.

Manganese is involved in enzyme activity for photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen metabolism. Deficiency in young leaves may show a network of green veins on a light green background similar to an iron deficiency. In the advanced stages the light green parts become white, and leaves are shed. Brownish, black, or grayish spots may appear next to the veins. In neutral or alkaline soils plants often show deficiency symptoms. In highly acid soils, manganese may be available to the extent that it results in toxicity.

Boron is necessary for cell wall formation, membrane integrity, calcium uptake and may aid in the translocation of sugars. Boron affects at least 16 functions in plants. These functions include flowering, pollen germination, fruiting, cell division, water relationships and the movement of hormones. Boron must be available throughout the life of the plant. It is not translocated and is easily leached from soils. Deficiencies kill terminal buds leaving a rosette effect on the plant. Leaves are thick, curled and brittle. Fruits, tubers and roots are discolored, cracked and flecked with brown spots.

Zinc is a component of enzymes or a functional cofactor of a large number of enzymes including auxins (plant growth hormones). It is essential to carbohydrate metabolism, protein synthesis and internodal elongation (stem growth). Deficient plants have mottled leaves with irregular chlorotic areas. Zinc deficiency leads to iron deficiency causing similar symptoms. Deficiency occurs on eroded soils and is least available at a pH range of 5.5 - 7.0. Lowering the pH can render zinc more available to the point of toxicity.

Copper is concentrated in roots of plants and plays a part in nitrogen metabolism. It is a component of several enzymes and may be part of the enzyme systems that use carbohydrates and proteins. Deficiencies cause die back of the shoot tips, and terminal leaves develop brown spots. Copper is bound tightly in organic matter and may be deficient in highly organic soils. It is not readily lost from soil but may often be unavailable. Too much copper can cause toxicity.

Molybdenum is a structural component of the enzyme that reduces nitrates to ammonia. Without it, the synthesis of proteins is blocked and plant growth ceases. Root nodule (nitrogen fixing) bacteria also require it. Seeds may not form completely, and nitrogen deficiency may occur if plants are lacking molybdenum. Deficiency signs are pale green leaves with rolled or cupped margins.

Chlorine is involved in osmosis (movement of water or solutes in cells), the ionic balance necessary for plants to take up mineral elements and in photosynthesis. Deficiency symptoms include wilting, stubby roots, chlorosis (yellowing) and bronzing. Odors in some plants may be decreased. Chloride, the ionic form of chlorine used by plants, is usually found in soluble forms and is lost by leaching. Some plants may show signs of toxicity if levels are too high.

Nickel has just recently won the status as an essential trace element for plants according to the Agricultural Research Service Plant, Soil and Nutrition Laboratory in Ithaca, NY. It is required for the enzyme urease to break down urea to liberate the nitrogen into a usable form for plants. Nickel is required for iron absorption. Seeds need nickel in order to germinate. Plants grown without additional nickel will gradually reach a deficient level at about the time they mature and begin reproductive growth. If nickel is deficient plants may fail to produce viable seeds.

Sodium is involved in osmotic (water movement) and ionic balance in plants.

Cobalt is required for nitrogen fixation in legumes and in root nodules of nonlegumes. The demand for cobalt is much higher for nitrogen fixation than for ammonium nutrition. Deficient levels could result in nitrogen deficiency symptoms.

Silicon is found as a component of cell walls. Plants with supplies of soluble silicon produce stronger, tougher cell walls making them a mechanical barrier to piercing and sucking insects. This significantly enhances plant heat and drought tolerance. Foliar sprays of silicon have also shown benefits reducing populations of aphids on field crops. Tests have also found that silicon can be deposited by the plants at the site of infection by fungus to combat the penetration of the cell walls by the attacking fungus. Improved leaf erectness, stem strength and prevention or depression of iron and manganese toxicity have all been noted as effects from silicon. Silicon has not been determined essential for all plants but may be beneficial for many.

[FONT=&quot]Written by Dorothy Morgan. Staff Horticulturist employed by Dyna-Gro Corporation. Dorothy holds a B. S. Degree in Horticulture from Delaware Valley College of Science and Agriculture and Penn State University. Her experience has included managing commercial greenhouses, nurseries, hydroponics, and teaching vocational agriculture - Reproduced w[/FONT]
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
to TRULY Know organics you have to read these books:
Soil Microbiology and Biochemistry http://www.amazon.com/Soil-Microbiology-Biochemistry-Second-Eldor/dp/0125468067
Introduction to Botany: http://www.amazon.ca/Introduction-Botany-Murray-Nabors/dp/0805344160

and to get a BETTER Idea at what Woodsmaneh is Talking about read This :http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex789

AFTER you have read ALL of that Material and tested yourself on the properties (IE, What is the purpose of Boron? what is the purpose of Silica? What is the purpose of Chlorine?) then you will start to have a good understanding of Organics.

after you KNOW all of that By heart, and have YEARS Of experiance then you will TRULY Know Organics.

Sunshine or ProMix
those are POTTING SOIL. did you miss the part where he said 20 GALLONS Potting soil?!? Perlite adds air space, the OPPOSITE Of making it compact.....

P.S: Fuck Synthetic. ORGANIC BUDS THE SIZE OF YOUR ARMS!! just had to say it for good measure.... hopefully some stupid synth users will see it, and yes your ethier lazy or stupid if you use synth....
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
See how your strain does with this soil mix..then adjust. One thing I've learned with organics, is that I can get much better with a strain after growing it a few times. Every strain seems to have different 'ideals" for nutes, soil and watering.
Organic mixes are like making Chili.

You START with a basic recipe, and then adjust to your, or rather your plants liking. It does take a few runs to find that 'ideal' for a particular strain.

Wet
 

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Congratulations on your wise decision. Organics is the only way to fly in my book!!!
A lot of really great info and finds here!!! Not a whole lot to add to any of this except that if you want to understand the actual composition of soil, and what makes a good soil, understand soil structure. http://soils.missouri.edu/tutorial/page9.asp

To ME, that recipe is pretty light on EWC, I use a lot more than that, but you can't argue success. Corbat knows his shit, no doubt.
I agree Corbat, lets see something like these from synthetics!!!
 

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mr.bond

Well-Known Member
Thats what I'm talkin' 'bout! Beautiful. Any questions Mr. Bond???
Thanks Jack... I'm curious what would be the best place to get some or most of the ingredients in the original post. I have seen bat guano at the hydro store, but not sure about some of the stuff like rock phosphate or green sand. Also, would coco chunks be an adequate substitute for perlite?

woodsman, those colas sparkle under that camera flash!!! delicious.

cheers
mr.bond
 
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