Parallel Wiring Samsung Strips. And Voltage Hogging

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
So For my 600W build I am use the H series H652D 22.5Vf with a 48V LG driver.

I am planning to wire either as following. One way I am certain minimizes the chance of voltage
hogging. The other way I am not so sure if it's risky. So would like more experiences LeD builders to weigh in

Option 1. I'll cut the wires at the same length and connect into a wago This will give me equal runs and thus maintain even Vf among all strings as best as possible

7F6BB39B-6388-4ACF-BCC3-B4BED6A14C73.jpeg

Option 2: if I can get away with this I'd prefer it. Because parsley one set of strips off the other set. But I know this might give lower voltage to the secondary LED strings. Do you think I will increase my chance of voltage hogging? Or is it pretty much nothing to worry about?
light bar 150w option2.jpg

Thoughts?

edit I fucked up option 2 Brb fixing. Lol
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Option 1: not because of the voltage but option 2 would mean that the first strip in your daisy chain will probably get hotter than the other one, it will have all the power going thru to the second strip going thru it's connectors. Don't do it.
Go with 1, if you feel like measure current thru each string and see what you get. Binning on strips is usually quite tight so you're likely they are very similar.
If this is you're strip setup you'd do well in adding a 5 way wagos to each end of each sink, that way you don't have to use long length of cable to each strip and if you glue it on it will take the hit you ever have an accident pulling on the cable from the driver; it's better to mess up a wago than your connectors.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Option 1: not because of the voltage but option 2 would mean that the first strip in your daisy chain will probably get hotter than the other one, it will have all the power going thru to the second strip going thru it's connectors. Don't do it.
Go with 1, if you feel like measure current thru each string and see what you get. Binning on strips is usually quite tight so you're likely they are very similar.
If this is you're strip setup you'd do well in adding a 5 way wagos to each end of each sink, that way you don't have to use long length of cable to each strip and if you glue it on it will take the hit you ever have an accident pulling on the cable from the driver; it's better to mess up a wago than your connectors.
Yup 5 way wago was the idea ok So I'll do option 1. It's just annoys me because I'll have to bring the wire back all the way 4 ft. But ya good point the first strip would have to see all the current of the second set of strips.

light bar 150w option2.jpg
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
not sure of overall amps available and maybe I'm missing something but what if u ran each pair of strips in series? so like flip the bottom strip upside down. then u just have 4 wires one for each channel +/- and the wires connecting each pair of strips, but wouldn't need anything on far end.

edit. nm. I thought you were using double row strips. you have just doubled up single rows
 
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shimbob

Well-Known Member
As drawn, i do believe option 1 will not light up as youve only connected one side of the diodes to the driver.
[Edit] ... And the driver will be shorted out
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
not sure of overall amps available and maybe I'm missing something but what if u ran each pair of strips in series? so like flip the bottom strip upside down. then u just have 4 wires one for each channel +/- and the wires connecting each pair of strips, but wouldn't need anything on far end.

edit. nm. I thought you were using double row strips. you have just doubled up single rows
i think I get what you are saying. But that's no different to Option 1 in terms of wire run. But with option 1 a 5 way wago cleans all that up in 1 wire.

where option 2 with the bottom flipped end s positive and negative wires both side. Does that make sense???
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
not sure of overall amps available and maybe I'm missing something but what if u ran each pair of strips in series? so like flip the bottom strip upside down. then u just have 4 wires one for each channel +/- and the wires connecting each pair of strips, but wouldn't need anything on far end.

edit. nm. I thought you were using double row strips. you have just doubled up single rows
I thought option 1 was 2 strips in series but now I see what you mean. It needs to be driver + to + and then - to + on the other strip and finally - to driver -. Sorry I was half watching the phone half the football ⚽
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
I thought option 1 was 2 strips in series but now I see what you mean. It needs to be driver + to + and then - to + on the other strip and finally - to driver -. Sorry I was half watching the phone half the football ⚽
Option 1 is two strips in series. Is it not? That was my intention anyway. Lol dunno why this is making me feel so dumb.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
It's not 96 volt, it's 4 strings of 2x 22.5v, you just have to run +-+- in the string and connect each end to + & - on the driver
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
2S x 4P

Can't you connect them in series, end to end, then use the + and - connectors in the middle?
Ya thought of that. Like invert option 1? Was trying to get away from having to drill the hole in the middle to pass the wires up. But it's def a good option.
2S 4P is how I have option 1 shown? Unless I messed it up some how??
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
So For my 600W build I am use the H series H652D 22.5Vf with a 48V LG driver.

I am planning to wire either as following. One way I am certain minimizes the chance of voltage
hogging. The other way I am not so sure if it's risky. So would like more experiences LeD builders to weigh in

Option 1. I'll cut the wires at the same length and connect into a wago This will give me equal runs and thus maintain even Vf among all strings as best as possible

View attachment 4933359

Option 2: if I can get away with this I'd prefer it. Because parsley one set of strips off the other set. But I know this might give lower voltage to the secondary LED strings. Do you think I will increase my chance of voltage hogging? Or is it pretty much nothing to worry about?
View attachment 4933400

Thoughts?

edit I fucked up option 2 Brb fixing. Lol
In option 1 you use 4 + connectors on one strip and 4 - on the other. It won't light, and I don't know if the strips have doubled up connectors. I think you got it right in your head but wrong on the drawing ;)

Edit I see the double connectors now.
 

MedicinalMyA$$

Well-Known Member
Ya thought of that. Like invert option 1? Was trying to get away from having to drill the hole in the middle to pass the wires up. But it's def a good option.
2S 4P is how I have option 1 shown? Unless I messed it up some how??
If you did run the wires through a hole in the middle of each bar then you could run your drivers crossways above the bars like some light manufacturers do.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I've built a few of these H-Series strip frames in the past and this is how I did it with side-by-side strips. I wired two strips in series for 48V, and the rest in parallel.

Option 2 is almost correct. But what you need to do is at the very bottom, run – to + (instead of + to – as per your wiring diagram). This will provide one pair of series strips (48V) connected in parallel to another pair of series strips (48V).

If you use my example below, take the first pair of strips on the very far right, move it directly below the second pair of strips to the left. You can see now how the white (–) and red (+) wires from the strip on the left line up with the – and + terminals on the strip below, which is being fed by the driver.

Have a look at the image I have drawn at the bottom. Delete the red lines and insert the blue lines.

FloweringFrames.jpg

This will work. The current flows from the driver through the first strip at the + terminal where it is connected in series to the strip next to it with the current flowing back to the driver through the – terminal. However, the bottom of this pair of strips is also feeding current to the pair of strips below which are wired exactly the same as the strips above. The current is being carried through the outer + track and returned by the outer – track.

Does it make sense now?
light bar 150w option2.jpeg
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Option 1: not because of the voltage but option 2 would mean that the first strip in your daisy chain will probably get hotter than the other one, it will have all the power going thru to the second strip going thru it's connectors. Don't do it.
Go with 1, if you feel like measure current thru each string and see what you get. Binning on strips is usually quite tight so you're likely they are very similar.
If this is you're strip setup you'd do well in adding a 5 way wagos to each end of each sink, that way you don't have to use long length of cable to each strip and if you glue it on it will take the hit you ever have an accident pulling on the cable from the driver; it's better to mess up a wago than your connectors.
The Molex connectors on those strips are good for 10A. As each strip is max rated at 1.2A, there is plenty of headroom to run all the current through that first connector (4.8A max). In reality, you would run these H Series strips at about 50-60% max current, so you would only have about 3A max running through the first connector.

Can I ask the OP what size LG driver you were planning to run with these?
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
The Molex connectors on those strips are good for 10A. As each strip is max rated at 1.2A, there is plenty of headroom to run all the current through that first connector (4.8A max). In reality, you would run these H Series strips at about 50-60% max current, so you would only have about 3A max running through the first connector.

Can I ask the OP what size LG driver you were planning to run with these?
150W LG driver 3.2 amps split over the strips in a 2S 4P configuration.

so for option two I don't really understand how you mean to go from + to - the red line at the bottom is already connecting the two strips in series is it not? Are you saying using the two inside connectors + and - is different to using the ones to the outside of the board?
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
I've built a few of these H-Series strip frames in the past and this is how I did it with side-by-side strips. I wired two strips in series for 48V, and the rest in parallel.

Option 2 is almost correct. But what you need to do is at the very bottom, run – to + (instead of + to – as per your wiring diagram). This will provide one pair of series strips (48V) connected in parallel to another pair of series strips (48V).

If you use my example below, take the first pair of strips on the very far right, move it directly below the second pair of strips to the left. You can see now how the white (–) and red (+) wires from the strip on the left line up with the – and + terminals on the strip below, which is being fed by the driver.

Have a look at the image I have drawn at the bottom. Delete the red lines and insert the blue lines.

View attachment 4934271

This will work. The current flows from the driver through the first strip at the + terminal where it is connected in series to the strip next to it with the current flowing back to the driver through the – terminal. However, the bottom of this pair of strips is also feeding current to the pair of strips below which are wired exactly the same as the strips above. The current is being carried through the outer + track and returned by the outer – track.

Does it make sense now?
View attachment 4934289
Unrelated. But for this fixture you've posted. How were holes drilled? Did you have them pre machined? Or did you drill all those yourself? Did you use a template? I use the tape. But some strips just want to peel off no matter what. I am always worried about the holes being off and not being able to line the strips up right.
 
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