Pics of First Grow (Fox Farm Products) Input appreciated

grodrowithme

Well-Known Member
lol, the fan leaves give most of the energy to the budsites, chopping any is a bad idea, but if you think it works better I can respect your thoughts, although i completely disagree with them.:peace:

check my journal bro ive always done it my dad done it and his did it. im having somw powdery mildew issues right now. so besides the point of just doing it sometimes you have to when certain problems come up. plus fans hold mostly N and lots of them die off 5-6 weeks in any way they have trace minerals but nuthing realy that important thats MHO
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
Happy Monday everybody. So last night I went over to my friends house where this set-up is. As I walked in, my buddy seemed quite eager to check the kids when I got there. (Yes it's his place, but he gave me a key for the room.) He stays out unless he has a grow going. But this time it's mine. My buddy (green card holder) eyes grew because he wasn't expecting me to really get anything off these kids. And last time he honestly wasnt to impressed. Looks like I'm getting this pH down. As for the fertilizers, If you can't already tell it's all premixed with water?? That's the only kind of Fox Farm Nutes this place had. Next time PICTURE updates will be added.

Medcaniman maybe you can show me some direct links to "powdered" nutes for FF i think thats what you meant . Maybe you can give a little better understanding here.. "maybe some hydrogen peroxide or vinegar but nothing other then pure H2O as far as liquid additives." Your completely contradicting what your saying." Water strictly but maybe some hydrogen peroxide?


Dave- I'm going to check into that lighting and that company. I wonder if I can get a real big score on craigslist and maybe meet this person somewhere in public


Thank's everyone for keeping my thread a FLAME free one. EVERYONES WELCOME TO VOICE INPUT
 

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
check my journal bro ive always done it my dad done it and his did it. im having somw powdery mildew issues right now. so besides the point of just doing it sometimes you have to when certain problems come up. plus fans hold mostly N and lots of them die off 5-6 weeks in any way they have trace minerals but nuthing realy that important thats MHO
no offense but your very wrong. from the growfaq......
Pruning/leafing

Leafing is one of the most misunderstood techniques.. In the mind of the cultivator, several reasons exist for removing leaves. Many feel that large shade leaves draw energy from the flowering plant, and therefore the flowering clusters will be smaller. It is felt that by removing the leaves, surplus energy will be available, and large floral clusters will be formed. Also, some feel that inhibitors of flowering, synthesized in the leaves during the long noninductive days of summer, may be stored in the older leaves that were formed during the noninductive photoperiod. Possibly, if these inhibitor-laden leaves are removed, the plant will proceed to flower, and maturation will be accelerated. Large leaves shade the inner portions of the plant, and small atrophied floral clusters may begin to develop if they receive more light.
In actuality, few if any of the theories behind leafing give any indication of validity. Indeed, leafing possibly serves to defeat its original purpose. Large leaves have a definite function in the growth and development. They serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth sub stances. They also create shade, but at the same time they are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods that will be used during the floral development of the plant. Premature removal of leaves may cause stunting, because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced. As these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo synthesis they turn chlorotie (yellow) and fall to the ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fungus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances, such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular components to a new growing part of the plant, such as the flowers. Your ladies begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant to reuse the energy and various molecular components of existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds.
Removing large amounts of leaves may interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. If this metabolic change occurs too late in the season it could interfere with floral development and delay maturation. If any floral inhibitors are removed, the intended effect of accelerating flowering will probably be counteracted by metabolic upset in the plant. Removal of shade leaves does facilitate more light reaching the center of the plant, but if there is not enough food energy produced in the leaves, the small internal floral clusters will probably not grow any larger. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic change.
If leaves must be removed, the petiole is cut so that at least an inch remains attached to the stalk. Weaknesses in the limb axis at the node result if the leaves are pulled off at the abscission layer while they are still green. Care is taken to see that the shriveling petiole does not invite fungus attack.
It should be remembered that, regardless of strain or environmental conditions, the plant strives to reproduce, and reproduction is favored by early maturation. This produces a situation where plants are trying to mature and reproduce as fast as possible. Although the purpose of leafing is to speed maturation, disturbing the natural progressive growth of a plant probably interferes with its rapid development.
Your plants grow largest when provided with plentiful nutrients, sunlight, and water and left alone to grow and mature naturally. It must be remembered that any alteration of the natural life cycle will affect productivity. Imaginative combinations and adaptations of propagation techniques exist, based on specific situations of cultivation. Logical choices are made to direct the natural growth cycle to favor the timely maturation of those products sought by the cultivator, without sacrificing seed or clone production.
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
Well this morning I got the chance to look at my 2 plants today. They looked outstanding. I'm going to start my flush after one more feeding session to my big one. Then I'm going to lower the light for my last one. This is just starting to get interested. Pics to come! Digital camera charger is somewhere around here. :bigjoint:
 

grodrowithme

Well-Known Member
no offense but your very wrong. from the growfaq......
Pruning/leafing

Leafing is one of the most misunderstood techniques.. In the mind of the cultivator, several reasons exist for removing leaves. Many feel that large shade leaves draw energy from the flowering plant, and therefore the flowering clusters will be smaller. It is felt that by removing the leaves, surplus energy will be available, and large floral clusters will be formed. Also, some feel that inhibitors of flowering, synthesized in the leaves during the long noninductive days of summer, may be stored in the older leaves that were formed during the noninductive photoperiod. Possibly, if these inhibitor-laden leaves are removed, the plant will proceed to flower, and maturation will be accelerated. Large leaves shade the inner portions of the plant, and small atrophied floral clusters may begin to develop if they receive more light.
In actuality, few if any of the theories behind leafing give any indication of validity. Indeed, leafing possibly serves to defeat its original purpose. Large leaves have a definite function in the growth and development. They serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth sub stances. They also create shade, but at the same time they are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods that will be used during the floral development of the plant. Premature removal of leaves may cause stunting, because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced. As these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo synthesis they turn chlorotie (yellow) and fall to the ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fungus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances, such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular components to a new growing part of the plant, such as the flowers. Your ladies begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant to reuse the energy and various molecular components of existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds.
Removing large amounts of leaves may interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. If this metabolic change occurs too late in the season it could interfere with floral development and delay maturation. If any floral inhibitors are removed, the intended effect of accelerating flowering will probably be counteracted by metabolic upset in the plant. Removal of shade leaves does facilitate more light reaching the center of the plant, but if there is not enough food energy produced in the leaves, the small internal floral clusters will probably not grow any larger. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic change.
If leaves must be removed, the petiole is cut so that at least an inch remains attached to the stalk. Weaknesses in the limb axis at the node result if the leaves are pulled off at the abscission layer while they are still green. Care is taken to see that the shriveling petiole does not invite fungus attack.
It should be remembered that, regardless of strain or environmental conditions, the plant strives to reproduce, and reproduction is favored by early maturation. This produces a situation where plants are trying to mature and reproduce as fast as possible. Although the purpose of leafing is to speed maturation, disturbing the natural progressive growth of a plant probably interferes with its rapid development.
Your plants grow largest when provided with plentiful nutrients, sunlight, and water and left alone to grow and mature naturally. It must be remembered that any alteration of the natural life cycle will affect productivity. Imaginative combinations and adaptations of propagation techniques exist, based on specific situations of cultivation. Logical choices are made to direct the natural growth cycle to favor the timely maturation of those products sought by the cultivator, without sacrificing seed or clone production.
i agree to disagree thats some ones opnion out of a book mine is something that has been going on for over 6o years in my family
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
Alright everyone. My preharvest flush is coming up. I was just gathering info in the FAQ section but I wanted to ask yall your opinions on this flush. Use strictly water and feed normal amount for 2 waterings? That would be equivelent to a week and a few days flush for the amount that i feed my kids.
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Alright everyone. My preharvest flush is coming up. I was just gathering info in the FAQ section but I wanted to ask yall your opinions on this flush. Use strictly water and feed normal amount for 2 waterings? That would be equivelent to a week and a few days flush for the amount that i feed my kids.
Im confused. Did you say you're going to flush with water, then feed with nutrients afterwards?
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Flushing with water is standard, but people also flush with molasses. Some feel flushing is unnecessary and that nutes should continue to be given up until harvest especially when using organics. I dont really know either way, but I will be doing a side by side taste test for myself to see if flushing really makes a difference.

Since you have two plants, why dont you do the same and report back your results for me :)
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
What you see in my pictures is all that I used. Anyways the update on the kids. The first two pictures taken are 2 days apart from the other one. I started my flush on the day of those two pictures and tonight, I'm turning off the lights for 48 hours then SNIPPP.. tell me what you all think for the final product of my first grow. I learned lots of things and I know definately what I can improve on. Also, the things that I did that slowed down the process will be eliminated. No more over watering (stay on a schedule for watering).... Have exactly what I need to measure out nutes (A BIG ONE).

Also. Strain guesses anyone?
 

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DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Dont stick to a water schedule because you're afraid of over-watering. Just learn when the pot is heavy versus light and water when its light. Sticking to a strict water schedule could end up depraving your plant of water. Just give it what it wants when it needs it.

In some of those pics it almost looks like under-watering. Those fan laves are very droopy. You also have some heat issues judging from pic two. When the leaves curl upwards like that its because the lights are too close.

Im glad you made it through your grow and will get something from it. Theres only room to improve from here. Im sure your next grow will go much better :).
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
I figured out the heat stress thing the other day. I lowered my fan to blow lower on my branches and all looks good. So is it time for the flush?



strains?
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
The reason the little plants fan leaves were drooping is because I took the picture before I fed it. That was the only reason. Is it ready????



Take a guess on the strain.
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
No way anyone can tell you what strain it is. Just too many out there. Its a bit hard to tell how much longer it has. I can't really tell if the calyxes are swelling. It looks a bit like the pistils are receding, so thats a good sign.
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
The pistols are definately starting to recede. I ended up feeding her one last time with nutes :P. The budd smells super sweet. I rarely give it a little squeeze but I did tonight. WOW some super potent smoke.. that is if i can do it right.
 

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
The reason the little plants fan leaves were drooping is because I took the picture before I fed it. That was the only reason. Is it ready????



Take a guess on the strain.
its all up to you on when to harvest, you must decide for yourself what you want from your buds and then harvest accordingly. try looking in the grow faq if you cant find the info on the boards instead of complaining no one is helping you btw, your the one who is asking us for a favor, dont forget that. talking to us like you did before makes us LESS likely to help you so your just hurting yourself by doing it. here is some info for you,

plants?

The 30X and 100X lighted magnifier are tools everyone serious about harvest timing should have. They make it easy to monitor the resin development process. After seeing 400X images of resin glands, I decided to also buy the 100X magnifier. It supplies a superior view, providing an enhanced perspective of resin gland condition and development.

I recommend buying the 30X model first and if you would like to expand your analytical capabilities, buy the 100X model. They both allow for a much closer inspection of the clarity, color and condition of the resin glands, which should be swollen and unbroken while remaining transparent and slightly amber, if at all, at the peak of ripeness. Some prefer harvesting earlier, as THC degrades to more sedative cannabinoids as the glands ripen.

Harvest timing is a matter of personal preference. When the glandular trichomes are clear with very little, if any coloration, THC levels are at their peak with CBD and CBN both at levels that will not overly influence the THC with their sedative effects. Some prefer more overwhelming narcotic type effects, allowing the resin glands to cloud and begin to amber or darken to increase overall cannabinoid content. The resin glands appear and therefore will mature at different times. A compromise is made when determining the desired overall maturity level to harvest. It depends on the growers preference in effect and palate.
 

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
Wow, I'm actually disappointed on how no one helps out the newbs here. I'm not even as experienced as 3/4 of these guys on this thread but they cant take the time to help out over here where someone reallly needs it. i took the time to actually put together a thread a few times with pictures and no responses. I been apart of this community now for over a year now and this is damn near sickening. Happy fuckin halloween
this is the one im talking about, i know its a pretty old post but i felt i needed to say something on it when i saw it regardless of how old it was, its nothing personal:peace:
 

michaelsto

Well-Known Member
I could care less about how people feel on a forum. I don't know thats just how I am. If you take anything personal from my smart ass attitude then im sorry. But anyways back to my thread. DarkDestruction420 I appreciate you posting the pics with your feedback. My understanding with the clearness/cloudiness trichome and amber hairs are complete now. I'm off to take some new pictures. I'll update tonight or tomorrow. Happy blazeage everyone.
 
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