Plant Problem....!!!!!PICS PICS!!!!! Please help guys... +REP 4 HELP

Temp is 80 Degrees
Humidity is 50%
3 Gallon Pots
Running c02
Sealed Room
General Hydroponics Nutes


okay so at first i thought it was a sulfer def. so i lowered ph and added epson salt.
that didnt work
so then i thought it was an magneseum def. so i raised the ph to 70 and added more epson salt(well Mag Amp by CES witch is derived from epson salt.)

and now i have no idea none of that stuff helped

So what do you guys think

Could be your pot size. Check out my thread Im having the same prob cause i never switched my plant to a bigger pot. leaves are getting spotty. Nice plant though man lookin good.

Could it be just the normal degeneration of lower leaves due to flowering? Everything else looks pretty good...Perhaps a little nitrogen mixed in with your bloom nutes will reduce how much yellowing occurs....good luck.

Its Nitrogen and Phosphorus deficiency, add a little bit more of those nutrients. Also could be a pH problem should try and have your pH around 6.5-6.8 (noticed you were in soil). It won't be both (mostlikey), so when you get a pH tester you'll be able to figure out what to do. In soil it takes a few days for the plant to stop showing symptoms, however some of the leaves in those pics are already lost forever.

-V

Could be multiple issues.

Root bound.
Imbalanced pH.
Cal-Mag deficiency.

I'd address each of these assuming they were the problem just to cover the base.

If it was pH it would be turning black and curling up,
I cant really tell by the pics,
but yea you should keep it at 6.2-6.5

Other then that,
how long are you into flowering?
Doesnt look very long.
But great looking plant besides the leafs!

Also you may need a little more nitrogen.

Snow Crash said:

Could be multiple issues.

Root bound.
Imbalanced pH.
Cal-Mag deficiency.

I'd address each of these assuming they were the problem just to cover the base.

Click to expand...

I agree, (Especially about the pot size - being root bound)

You still have about at least 3 weeks approx. by these pics, and your bud will start to grow almost exponentially, especially that last week, taxing the hell out of your root system. Larger pots will be a MUST......and soon. You are also using CO2 which can really UP the demand on the nutrient base. Larger pots will give you more wiggle room....for the roots, nutrients and water demands.

And a little Nitrogen would help. While you are definitely having some minor issues, just remember that generally the first leaves to start fading are the fan leaves.

Good luck.

Nice Ol Bud said:

If it was pH it would be turning black and curling up,
I cant really tell by the pics,
but yea you should keep it at 6.2-6.5

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That is not true. Really poor advice actually.

Read this http://www.gardenscure.com/420/plant-nursery/107527-revised-complete-guide-sick-plants-ph.html. ctrl+f and search for "pH spotting." There is a picture to demonstrate what you are experiencing.

Damage related to pH issues can be very diverse.

Also, you want your pH at 6.5 in soil. Not 6.2, not 6.8, straight at 6.5. If anything you want to deviate a bit upwards towards 6.6. The soil can become more acidic as water evaporates and the solution in the media becomes more concentrated. Not all soil is going to buffer its pH the same way, organics come into play here, so it really is just a matter of trying to keep the soil happy. Do that and you'll have good results.

looks pretty normal to me during flowering flowers are pulling the mobil nutes from the leaves and the leaves are dieing as you add nitrogen it will slow flower a little and increase growth a little not a bad thing, i would pinch them of and forget about it and if you fix 5 things at once youll never know what it was one thing at a time is best, never the less pull thous leaves, plants waste energy on them.

if im wrong snow is right

you dont think 3 gallon pots is big enough for a 3 foot tall plant?

withoutAchance said:

looks pretty normal to me during flowering flowers are pulling the mobil nutes from the leaves and the leaves are dieing as you add nitrogen it will slow flower a little and increase growth a little not a bad thing, i would pinch them of and forget about it and if you fix 5 things at once youll never know what it was one thing at a time is best, never the less pull thous leaves, plants waste energy on them.

if im wrong snow is right

Click to expand...

I agree. I could totally be wrong here and this is a natural reaction to the given time in flowering. It's one or the other...

Snow Crash said:

That is not true. Really poor advice actually.

Damage related to pH issues can be very diverse.

Click to expand...

I agree 100%.

yea but what about the spots looks like rusty spots i dont know but i dont think that has anything to do with nitrogen

[email protected] said:

yea but what about the spots looks like rusty spots i dont know but i dont think that has anything to do with nitrogen

Click to expand...

I'm thinking Potassium deficient. Typical shortage of flowering nutrients. That plant in the pic is pretty big for the pot with all the side shoots.
I bet not a chunk of soil would fall off the "root ball" if you took the plant out of the pot.

POTASSIUM (K)

Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

Some N in the mix might help, but you don't need much at all. Most of the yellowing on the mid to higher leaves should be remedied when the Potassium kicks in. Most of the lower leaves are write offs and should be clipped, especitally the curled burnt looking ones.

This, of course as I state most of my advice, is just that, my advice. I would treat that plant first by moving it to a larger pot.....carefully so as not to shock it too much.
Then treat it with mild "flowering" solution, with a little N, then progressively increase the flowering solution strength (P and K), and decrease the N until you reach a ZERO N mix for the last couple 3 weeks or so. Of course, stop feeding a week or so before harvest, then just water with straight ph'd water.

Other than that, the plant doesn't look too bad. It is quite lush and vigorous. I just think the size of the pot is limiting you. I have found that rootbound plants are tricky to deal with, until you transplant them then they seem to stabilize as far as problem symptoms go.

You COULD stick with the smaller pots you have, and just try the Potassium suggestion, and see if it helps. And remember, when it comes to nutrients more is not always better. A solution say 70% of the suggested dose is better than trying to just cram a full dose. Too much can just lock out other nutrients. I think of it like NOS systems in a car.....sure its great and boosts your performance, but too much can blow it all to hell.

But I still think bigger pots would help you out a little better.

Good luck.

Your plant is dying, congratulation's.

Annuals are like that yeah they are.

It's completly normal, add some veg nutes with your next watering to slow it down, but bottom line is your plant is dying a glorious death, such is the cycle of life.

thanks for all the help guys i gave everyone rep.

i ended up flushing to 200 ppm then nuted with GH lucas formula 5-5-5 to 1400 ppm

plants stopped yellowing for the most part i will update with pics a little later

Snow Crash said:

That is not true. Really poor advice actually.

Read this http://www.gardenscure.com/420/plant-nursery/107527-revised-complete-guide-sick-plants-ph.html. ctrl+f and search for "pH spotting." There is a picture to demonstrate what you are experiencing.

Damage related to pH issues can be very diverse.

Also, you want your pH at 6.5 in soil. Not 6.2, not 6.8, straight at 6.5. If anything you want to deviate a bit upwards towards 6.6. The soil can become more acidic as water evaporates and the solution in the media becomes more concentrated. Not all soil is going to buffer its pH the same way, organics come into play here, so it really is just a matter of trying to keep the soil happy. Do that and you'll have good results.

Click to expand...

Then if thats the case ALL of my plants would be dead if I didnt know anything.
You dont have to have the pH directly at a certain number.
Your advice is poor,
I do not have to explain for myself to you.
Look at the pH problem in the link you gave me dumb shit.
Its turning black and curling up.
Dont tell me im wrong,
as for I would not give anyone false advice unlike your doing.
Also look at the pH tables.
I doubt you even know what Im talking about.
Bro..
dont bullshit me, cause im not an idiot.

NoB

Hello, My plants are curling like crazy all over im getting dead leave turning yellow big time but im getting new growth but in a day or two they are starting to grow help any buddy i dont want to lose my plants.

we need pics to tell you anything

Nice Ol Bud said:

Then if thats the case ALL of my plants would be dead if I didnt know anything.
You dont have to have the pH directly at a certain number.
Your advice is poor,
I do not have to explain for myself to you.
Look at the pH problem in the link you gave me dumb shit.
Its turning black and curling up.
Dont tell me im wrong,
as for I would not give anyone false advice unlike your doing.
Also look at the pH tables.
I doubt you even know what Im talking about.
Bro..
dont bullshit me, cause im not an idiot.

NoB

Click to expand...

LMAO! Unbunch your panties. Where did anyone say you didn't know "anything." You gave bad advice, it is what it is. And I mean, I'm no grammar Nazi, but... Just read what you posted. It says more about you than I ever could.

cause im not an idiot.

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This makes me laugh so hard. Not because of the "cause." Not because im. It's because after all that you actually used "an" in front of idiot.

The reason pH related damage does not have one single symptom is because the pH can lock out just one, or many, elements. The lock up of elements as a result of pH imbalance can then appear as a variety of micro-nutrient deficiencies, or as macro-nutrient deficiencies. It can also come and go, being an issue one week, and confusing a grower into adding different nutrient ratios when all they needed to do is calibrate their meter.

Here's the pH spotting damage picture from the thread I included in the link.
View attachment 1323416

I don't know how anyone could claim this leaf is black and curling up. Perhaps you should actually read, actually educate yourself, rather than looking at picture books and trying to infer the information. I mean really, of all the things you said, this has to be the stupidest of them all. The plant is very clearly not turning black or curling up

dumb shit.

Click to expand...

Want some tables to look at? You clearly don't have any for yourself. The first one is pH and the second one is a nutrient toxicity table.


If you can take a few moments out of your busy day you'd see that having a pH beneath 6.5 will lock out Magnesium and Calcium. A pH over 6.5 can lock out Iron and Manganese. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium have a larger window regarding pH but that doesn't mean you can deviate 1/2 a point of pH without any effect.

Establishing the pH at the value right at 6.5 keeps all elements available for uptake. I'm not making this up. Look it up for yourself before claiming to know something that very simply isn't true. I'm sorry you got so upset about my pointing out your bad advice but you're the one who felt the need to act like a know-it-all when you very clearly don't.

Good luck with your South Florida December Outdoor grow... You're going to need it. I mean, 1,200 posts in a matter of 1 month... I don't know how you find time to take a shit, much less grow a plant or have a job. Maybe you should stop posting and start reading.