Plant suffering, help needed please.

Hi, I have a Top 44 x Bubblegum fem that is showing signs of a problem.

It is in Biobizz All-Mix soil, was getting fed 1ml/litre of Bio Grow up to today when I have flushed with 2.5L of water PH'd to 6.4 and then fed with 500ml of water with 1ml of Bio Grow, so 2ml/litre. The run off of the flush was PH 6.7.

The flush resulted in light brown/yellowish water. Very lightly coloured compared to the nute water going in so there doesn't seem to be any build up of nutes not getting used...

The plant does need transplanted but the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot do not look like they are blocked by roots yet. I have not lifted the root ball out of the pot as I am not ready to transplant due to money not getting to my account till tomorrow.

I will be transplanting tomorrow whether it needs it or not as a larger pot can't hurt.

Also, the plant is under 600w of dual spectrum HPS lumatek lighting. The bulb is cooled via cool tube. Temps are around 24-25c when light is on and 18-20c when light is off.

The plant has looked like this for the past week almost, looking worse every day. The plant is not overwatered as it dries out completely before getting more water. The plant was on 250ml of water a day up till just over a week ago when I started watering 500ml every 2-3 days once the pot has gotten light again. I always dig 2 inches at the edge of the pot to check for dampness before watering again.

So, I thing I have mentioned everything that I need to mention, if not I am able to provide any more information that is needed.

Finally, here is pictures of the suffering this plant is having to endure...

View attachment 2816003View attachment 2816008

Anyone? Almost 100 views and no reply. Surely someone who knows their stuff has seen the post by now?

sorry big chief she looks done for to me.Looks most def like a root problem.Its no where big enough to be root bound.maybe you let it get to dry?
Dont give up start over..try again.Good luck.

Thanks for the reply.

Well its not the only plant in there, the other 3 have had exact same conditions and are coming along nicely as you can see in the last pages of the thread in my sig.

I am not going to give up on it as there is room for it so I can at least put some TLC into it even just for an experiment.

But your comment about the root problem, could be's are not really good enough for me. I have to understand how I failed instead of wandering why I failed. How could a root problem that would cause this start?

I have had problems with gnat larvae right at the start that was fixed rather quickly with H2O2. They were in the soil from the start and were noticed a few days in.

Also I did think that the pots were of a good enough size for that size of plant. There is still new growth happening on the plant also, it was topped about a week ago and the new tops are growing good. Its just the from the base upwards.

just take out the dead leaves nothing wrong with your plants
i am sure you are over watering it
never scare from the yellow leaves if they are the first down leaves like yours

The plant definitely has a problem. The plant up until a week ago was reaching for the light at all times, now with the last week it is all droopy and withdrawn, it looked so full of life up till a week ago.

I have now checked the roots, they are nowhere near root bound yet. The roots are pure white and there is no creepy crawlies to be seen also.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

So far I have tried all I can to revive the appeal this plant had a week ago. Watering changes nothing, flushing changes nothing, giving it no food, weak food, now normal strength food changes nothing.

I have looked at deficiencies and I'm drawn towards a magnesium deficiency but I am not good at relating pictures, I need someone with enough experience to say, right it is this that's wrong, and this is what I have to do to fix it...

All your replies are welcomed but I need some solid info on what it is and how to fix.

chemtrailsrbad said:

The plant definitely has a problem. The plant up until a week ago was reaching for the light at all times, now with the last week it is all droopy and withdrawn, it looked so full of life up till a week ago.

I have now checked the roots, they are nowhere near root bound yet. The roots are pure white and there is no creepy crawlies to be seen also.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

So far I have tried all I can to revive the appeal this plant had a week ago. Watering changes nothing, flushing changes nothing, giving it no food, weak food, now normal strength food changes nothing.

I have looked at deficiencies and I'm drawn towards a magnesium deficiency but I am not good at relating pictures, I need someone with enough experience to say, right it is this that's wrong, and this is what I have to do to fix it...

All your replies are welcomed but I need some solid info on what it is and how to fix.

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if you do not listen then why you ask for help ?
i am telling you your plant is fine but needs leafing
1- remove all the yellow leaves
2- remove all the succor leaves even if they are green
the plant needs help and you are not helping
can you tell the whole forum why you are keeping the yellow leaves in the plant ?
lol you know nothing about gardening
yellow leaves absorbs more sugar than green leaves thinking that they can recover
thats why the green ones are droopy
help your plants but if you believe you have a problem keep looking for a solution

jamezsr said:

if you do not listen then why you ask for help ?
i am telling you your plant is fine but needs leafing
1- remove all the yellow leaves
2- remove all the succor leaves even if they are green
the plant needs help and you are not helping
can you tell the whole forum why you are keeping the yellow leaves in the plant ?
lol you know nothing about gardening
yellow leaves absorbs more sugar than green leaves thinking that they can recover
thats why the green ones are droopy
help your plants but if you believe you have a problem keep looking for a solution

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No need to be an asshole!
1. If there is nothing wrong with my plant, then why do I need to remove leaves?
2. If I needed to remove leaves then why did you not explain why in your first post instead of saying there's nothing wrong but you need to remove leaves.
3. If the plant needs help then you should have explained that first time round instead of telling me that there was nothing wrong when you have clearly contradicted yourself by finally giving me a good enough explanation as to why the plant is like this.

Jesus some people on here, its like trying to get blood out of a stone.

Just remember, one day YOU knew nothing about gardening too!

chemtrailsrbad said:

No need to be an asshole!
1. If there is nothing wrong with my plant, then why do I need to remove leaves?
2. If I needed to remove leaves then why did you not explain why in your first post instead of saying there's nothing wrong but you need to remove leaves.
3. If the plant needs help then you should have explained that first time round instead of telling me that there was nothing wrong when you have clearly contradicted yourself by finally giving me a good enough explanation as to why the plant is like this.

Jesus some people on here, its like trying to get blood out of a stone.

Just remember, one day YOU knew nothing about gardening too!

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only idiots keep yellow leaves in their plants

The times ive seen a plant droop leaf like that they normally die.It normally happens when i transplant with root shock or i stick a bamboo steak through its root system trying to support it.h2o2 should probably not be put into dirt it will kill the beneficial microbes.If it is put in to hot if you are using food grade h2o2 it will burn the roots up.Not knowing everything you have done to the plant even the soil could have been to hot and cooked the roots,not likely though as the leaves would turn yellow and brown as it is dying.If your other plants are pulling out of what was wrong with them then whatever happened, happened to the babys all at the same time.ALL SOIL SHOULD BE TREATED WITH GARDEN LIME EVERY SINGLE TIME.this adds calcium and ballances the PH out.So make sure you have garden lime in your dirt.I dont care how much you paid for it.See the water you pour into it changes PH all the time either up or down the water will change PH in the soil and you will never know it and it will screw up plants severely .If you are for example using RO water..RO water almost always drifts down.so you pour into your dirt..it sits there and the PH drops low screwing up your plants uptake of nutes and water.If the soil is treated with garden lime the water sits in the treated soil and the lime will not let the moisture ph fluctuate.Azomite if you can find it should be added into the dirt also..azomite is a mined mineral that has every known micronute in it.Your plants will never have a mineral defficency of any type using it.with dealing with fungus flys growing in dirt you will almost have to live with them somewhat..If you go over to organics here at RIU you will find the most extensive information anywhere on dirt growing.study sub cools super soil and you will learn more about organic dirt growing then most people will ever learn.the information is right here on this site.good luck.
One more side note for you..About two coffee cups of garden lime mixed into your soil before you plant will cover about 4 large bags of dirt.along with two teaspoons or so of azomite.It takes very little .the garden lime is CHEAP..some call it dolomite lime on here.I have a 50 lb bag of azomite i paid i think around 60 bucks for it..i will have that bag of azomite for years..and years before i ever run out of it.A long time ago when i switched from dirt growing to hydro i still add azomite to my res.Just a small pinch.I do not need to ever run micro nutes of anyones brand at 50 bucks a gallon.2 cents worth or azomite takes care of it in the res.

jamezsr said:

if you do not listen then why you ask for help ?
i am telling you your plant is fine but needs leafing
1- remove all the yellow leaves
2- remove all the succor leaves even if they are green
the plant needs help and you are not helping
can you tell the whole forum why you are keeping the yellow leaves in the plant ?
lol you know nothing about gardening
yellow leaves absorbs more sugar than green leaves thinking that they can recover
thats why the green ones are droopy
help your plants but if you believe you have a problem keep looking for a solution

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This just ain't correct. Leaves do not absorb sugar, they manufacture it and send it to other parts of the plant through the xylem. Yellow bottom leaves are yellow because mobile nutrients (like nitrogen) are being drawn FROM them for use in other areas of the plant. This occurs when the roots are unable to uptake sufficient quantities for whatever reason. Doesn't necessarily mean that the nutrients aren't present, just that the plant is having a hard time accessing them.

One big factor that can make a plant struggle to uptake is a lack of oxygen in the root zone. Without sufficient oxygen, the roots cannot function properly, and the plant will begin to wilt and yellow like you are seeing.

Let that soil dry out a little more and you should see it start to perk up.

A big reason many people end up overwatering is that they water all their plants on the same schedule without considering each plant as an individual. Some use more water than others, and when you cram them all into the same schedule, some get overwatered and some get underwatered.

Good luck.

Cheers,

-SpicySativa

I see that you have reduced your watering frequency from daily to every few days. That's a good idea. The damage was likely done while you were watering daily, and took a few days to start showing up.

Watering frequency generally goes UP as the plant grows, not down. Young plants generally only need water about 1 or two times per week, not daily. I never even get to a point where my plants need water daily. If it gets to that point, it's time to transplant.

i would def pull those yellow leaves. the root problem and fungus gnats could have been caused by overwatering and temps around 80. I don't think the peroxide would have messed up your roots if you went light. ive used it for fungus gnats it worked like a charm. I just replenished my bennies with some microbe products. the flushing and watering every day could have caused the problem. that's just one answer. whats your humidity. during veg I understand you want it around 60% this could cause problems like your having. how do you check your ph. do you ph your water before you water. also that soil could have had hot spots in it? how old is the plant? I didn't see or I missed it..they really don't need any nutes for like the first 3 weeks. you may know that..at first glance I was gonna say a nitro deficiency but I don't think so. dude was right about the lime it will provide calcium magnesium and balance out your ph when you don't.. many problems are ph related I would start there and don't just go by the runoff try and find a way to test the soil. when you transplant I would def get a little packet you can get at the garden center has good stuff and mycorrizhae. just some suggestions hope it turns around for you.

the formula said:

i would def pull those yellow leaves. the root problem and fungus gnats could have been caused by overwatering and temps around 80. I don't think the peroxide would have messed up your roots if you went light. ive used it for fungus gnats it worked like a charm. I just replenished my bennies with some microbe products. the flushing and watering every day could have caused the problem. that's just one answer. whats your humidity. during veg I understand you want it around 60% this could cause problems like your having. how do you check your ph. do you ph your water before you water. also that soil could have had hot spots in it? how old is the plant? I didn't see or I missed it..they really don't need any nutes for like the first 3 weeks. you may know that..at first glance I was gonna say a nitro deficiency but I don't think so. dude was right about the lime it will provide calcium magnesium and balance out your ph when you don't.. many problems are ph related I would start there and don't just go by the runoff try and find a way to test the soil. when you transplant I would def get a little packet you can get at the garden center has good stuff and mycorrizhae. just some suggestions hope it turns around for you.

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Ok the yellow leaves are gone. I have always been told to let leaves fall off when they are ready so as to not stress the plants, am I wrong on believing this? Even though I have followed the advice and removed any leaves that are beyond recovery.

The gnats were due to a bad batch of soil, each helping of soil used from the bag I currently have is contaminated already and needs treating before use. Funds are short at the moment and if treating works it saves some pennies.

Humidity is 60 just now, min is 53 and max today is 70 but it never usually gets above 65. I check the PH of the water but never need to adjust it, it comes from the tap at 8.0 (on a calibrated Essentials PH meter) and after adding nutrients it always ends up around 6.4-6.5. The lowest I have seen it is 6.1. The runoff is usually 6.0 - 6.4. Having read your claim to not trust the runoff, should getting a sample of water and PHing it to 7.0 and adding a sample of soil and letting it sit for a while produce a more accurate result?

All of the 4 plants I have are now showing very faint signs of yellowing. With the amount of grows I have read on here, I am drawn towards cal/mag like you say. These are usually provided in trace amounts in the water supply naturally. Is cal/mag worth the money (and travel costs as I live away from the city) just to feed as an extra supplement? I do need to go visit a grow shop soon anyway, so that may have to go on the list of things to get.

As I re read your reply, watering every day was really at the start of the grow, they are around 1 month 2 week old. The first few weeks was stunted due to the gnat problem which is now completely clear now. Now they are watered around 1L of water whenever they are ready for more, which now is every 2 days, they are drinking LOTS of water just now, the pot gets light alot quicker than I would have expected.

And thank you for your detailed reply.

epson salts has all the mag you need like 1tsp or tbs a gal youd have to check. you could lightly topdress and mix in lime it having calcium and magnesium along with helping balance out your ph. it is slow acting and use sparingly but it could help and I got a little bag from the bin at the garden center for 20 cents. it was a very fine powder. don't breathe it. im sorry those were just some ideas I had up there im really not a pro but your humidity can hit 70 no problem in veg. its ok to take those leaves off. especially if its just a few lower ones. it will provide circulation at the base of your plant and help push energy up higher where you want it any way so its no big deal. ya some say leave em on till they drop others say if it pops off easy its done..whatever...just don't go to high up! do the nutes your using have any cal/mag in them already. ya the fungus gnats are a bitch I had em twice the second time they really did the job that's when I had to pull out the peroxide..killing the microbe colony I worked so hard to build. if your not using mycorrizhae I would def suggest it. you can get some really good free sample at microbelifehydro.com or org. not sure but its a four pack I got 3 of them sent to dif addresses. whats your grow set up like? do you have adequate intake and exhaustion or atleast a way for fresh air to get in regularly. not that it matters so much now, it does, but will even more when it comes to flower. it could be time to start using unsulphurated molasses not sure if you suppose to wait till flower that will feed the good stuff in soil and add some calcium also. look up when to start using molasses you def want to use it during the whole flower cycle arguably even through the final flush..just some things to think about have a good one hopefully you woke up and your plants turned around. if nothing else helps you could try raising the light for a day or two just so its cooler at the top of the plant..just a suggestion. not for to long you don't want it to stretch. I don't believe temp at top of plant should be higher than 85. you may wanna double check that also..

also your letting your water sit for atleast 24 hours rt? adding an airstone and little 5 dollar pump to your watering can really healp oxygenate the roots it helped me after the fungus gnat invasion. I have oxygenated every batch of water I use since.

the formula said:

also your letting your water sit for atleast 24 hours rt? adding an airstone and little 5 dollar pump to your watering can really healp oxygenate the roots it helped me after the fungus gnat invasion. I have oxygenated every batch of water I use since.

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Ever wonder how all those outdoor plants grow in soil, and obtain ample nutrients through the soils organics using 100% tap water with chloramine in it? This plant shows signs of over watering and nitrogen def., but because some of the plants are strong enough to handle your ample water feedings doesnt mean all can.. Let it dry well and give it superthrive + great white or orca or just some kind of beneficial cause root rot can set in when plants are ill.

I said it would help. I bet 9/10 people don't use straiight up tap. Besides the chlorine will kill ur bennies..at least some if not all. Great white and orca are good products.(which is what I said basically to add...bennies) but that shits expensive. if your having root issues don't use tap without conditioning it first. Whether its by evaporation or
using airstones. Humboldt makes a couple I got myco madness for $30. I would order that free shit offline tho personally, the microbe life.