Please help. Ph problems, light burn or deficiency?

kingromano

Well-Known Member
not nitrogen deficiency thats for sure
nitrogen=mobile nutrient, yellowing will start from the bottom

probably zinc deficiency in your case ..or S idk ..but it dont really matter
theres imbalance in your medium
did you just transplanted them before the problems ? in that hot soil mix
some water only feeds should be good to resolve the problem

how is your water ? tap water, ro ? and is it hard
 

ubluntu

Active Member
So we have an inconsistent media, with inacurate runoff readings, and we will use this data to make an adjustment?
Chasing of the tail.
I've only used soil pH readings to verify what I already suspect, very low pH. I've never felt the need for any more accuracy. You can't accurately adjust soil pH like you can hydro, so what's the point?

"too high" or "too low" is good enough for soil.
 

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
I certainly agree with that.
I often see this soil pH discussion come up, and growers believing that the runoff is an indication of the actual media pH in the rootzone.
I understand now what you were saying.
 

Powertech

Well-Known Member
I check my run off ph but don’t do anything with the data except write it down. Some day maybe I’ll make a useful analysis
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
if your runoff ph is lower than your feed it usually means you have salt accumulations in your medium ..
can also tell you that you have root disease but i dont think its your case

a plant normally eating should give a slightly higher ph in the runoff than the feed
ex: feed ph 6 runoff ph 6.5

if i was i soil i would only use liquid organic fert .. and not bother with ph setting
chemical fert+ph setting is suited to use in hydro/coco .. soil is nature
it must be easy pleasure to grow in soil .. because its forgiving and the life in soil will keep the ph in balance without pouring ph down in it .. which will kill all beneficial bacterias and force you to set it every watering
 

DaleW

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone! My one fire og plant has been giving me some problems recently, but also my other plants a little bit. A little background. Fire og started yellowing harder than all my other plants. Thought it was mag def so I upped the cal mag and gave an Epsom salt foliar. Didn’t help out too much. I recalibrated my ph pen and it was a whole point off. I was feeding them 5.5 instead of 6.5. I watered this time with. 7.2 to balance it out. The fire og just started showing some burning, and I don’t know what’s going on. Please help. Only the last photo is the gorilla glue. The GG #4 shows som mottling. Please help.
A couple of things. How old are the plants and how often do you feed them with nutrients? What do you feed them? Im sorry you may have mentioned this already.

Also. All of the talk of checking runoff and soil ph is a myth. You do not have to worry about that as long as you mix your soil with powder dolomite and leave it sitting for about 2 hours before using. If you do not do this you can have soil problems quite often.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
You don't need to feed if you're using ffoc/happy frog. read the labels carefully. there's nutrients in those already. ffoc if pretty hot stuff and can last a long time. don't give extra calmag unless you know for sure you have to. know what calcium and mag def really look like. search the web. You have over ferted your plants. dark green leaves is too much nitrogen. dying tips is another sign. tissue is dying from over fert. make sure to use a container large enough for entire grow cycle.
 

marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
not nitrogen deficiency thats for sure
nitrogen=mobile nutrient, yellowing will start from the bottom

probably zinc deficiency in your case ..or S idk ..but it dont really matter
theres imbalance in your medium
did you just transplanted them before the problems ? in that hot soil mix
some water only feeds should be good to resolve the problem

how is your water ? tap water, ro ? and is it hard
Tap water dechlorinated with a ppm of 120. Just got a ph soil tester by bluelab, and sulfur amendments
 

marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
A couple of things. How old are the plants and how often do you feed them with nutrients? What do you feed them? Im sorry you may have mentioned this already.

Also. All of the talk of checking runoff and soil ph is a myth. You do not have to worry about that as long as you mix your soil with powder dolomite and leave it sitting for about 2 hours before using. If you do not do this you can have soil problems quite often.
Plants are 3 month old clones in a 5 gallon pot. Feed Feed Water using foxfarms at quarter strength. Should I use sulfur amendments or dolomite lime?
 

marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
You don't need to feed if you're using ffoc/happy frog. read the labels carefully. there's nutrients in those already. ffoc if pretty hot stuff and can last a long time. don't give extra calmag unless you know for sure you have to. know what calcium and mag def really look like. search the web. You have over ferted your plants. dark green leaves is too much nitrogen. dying tips is another sign. tissue is dying from over fert. make sure to use a container large enough for entire grow cycle.
Not dark green, its actually yellowing from the top, and the sides are tarting to burn too.
 

ubluntu

Active Member
Also. All of the talk of checking runoff and soil ph is a myth. You do not have to worry about that as long as you mix your soil with powder dolomite and leave it sitting for about 2 hours before using. If you do not do this you can have soil problems quite often.
I find this to be true in my experience. I use lime and instead of a pH meter, slight Iron chlorosis is my main indicator. If It starts to go away, I know the pH is falling or I'm feeding a bit heavy/buildups are occuring. A runoff ppm/pH test veryfies this and I top dress with some lime.

I think runoff PPM is more important than pH for anyone using sythetic nutes. Buildups are often the source of the pH problem.
Plants are 3 month old clones in a 5 gallon pot. Feed Feed Water using foxfarms at quarter strength. Should I use sulfur amendments or dolomite lime?
My vote for lime. No experience with sulfur pH amendments.
 

marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
I find this to be true in my experience. I use lime and instead of a pH meter, slight Iron chlorosis is my main indicator. If It starts to go away, I know the pH is falling or I'm feeding a bit heavy/buildups are occuring. A runoff ppm/pH test veryfies this and I top dress with some lime.

I think runoff PPM is more important than pH for anyone using sythetic nutes. Buildups are often the source of the pH problem.

My vote for lime. No experience with sulfur pH amendments.
It’s getting worse, but would Lomé help this?
 

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marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
Bro I dont check the r.o. its useless really because if you're doing everything that you need to do you'll be ok. Get a soil ph meter. What I've learned bro on my on also get sulfer because your soil ph will get too high during veg because you're not using many nutrients that lowers your ph in the water it spikes it and you have to bring it down so I'll hit it with the shit maybe a month in. Pay attention to the details of your leaves closely because you can see the discoloring coming very slightly before full blown. I say a very slight blue in my leaves checked my soil ph it was 7.5 so I hit it with sulfer and I was pretty green the next day. I've been growing a yr. Killed seedlings under watered under watered not doing what I need with balancing temp over nuet etc heat stress mold man everything but it got me where iam now and it's getting better. Just dont cut corners pay attention to detail and treat them like your children
It’s now like this. People are telling me sulfur and people are telling me dolomite lime. What do I need if it now looks like this?
 

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skinitti666

Well-Known Member
It’s now like this. People are telling me sulfur and people are telling me dolomite lime. What do I need if it now looks like this?
Bro first thing flush with the water that's it and give it time to dry out did u get a soil meter? It's a lockout bro. Inbox me and tell me what are you doing over there
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
Bro first thing flush with the water that's it and give it time to dry out did u get a soil meter? It's a lockout bro. Inbox me and tell me what are you doing over there
Sulfer lowers the ph and at this point in the game shouldn't be used just hit it with that water and lime only then water again after that start feeding again but in small moderation. I only use half the recommended strength
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
Look get you one of these some guy on here suggested that these dont work. Well a few weeks ago my meter read between 7-8 like 7.5 is high so I hit it with sulfer which lowers the soil ph and here are the pics the 1st one reads the ph the second reads if the soils wet or dry which you can see its wet of course because I fed this morning. Now my ph will lower again within a few weeks so I'll hit it with lime to keep it from getting too low so what happened to you wont happen to me. See when that ph drops below the acid range that then causes lockout which brings on a shit load of problems. Keep it simple you're doing too much over there
 

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marsuzano99

Well-Known Member
Look get you one of these some guy on here suggested that these dont work. Well a few weeks ago my meter read between 7-8 like 7.5 is high so I hit it with sulfer which lowers the soil ph and here are the pics the 1st one reads the ph the second reads if the soils wet or dry which you can see its wet of course because I fed this morning. Now my ph will lower again within a few weeks so I'll hit it with lime to keep it from getting too low so what happened to you wont happen to me. See when that ph drops below the acid range that then causes lockout which brings on a shit load of problems. Keep it simple you're doing too much over there
I used the same ph meter you have and it says 7.5 ph soil. I bought sulfur, but should I use it?
 
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