Pool Shock in Res - Root Rot help

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
There has to be more to root rot....I have ran an experimental grow in dwc and did not change the res once throughout the entire grow in a 5 gallon res. No chiller either. I used hydroguard once a month and not once had a problem. I was topping up over a gallon a day so I am thinking the constant replenishing made me less prone to rot.
You running DWC once and not getting root rot is not really a good experiment. Without proper precautions in hydro it is not a matter of IF, it's a matter of WHEN you will get root rot. You can get lucky for years, but it only takes one lost crop to realize the benefits of preventative measures.

For me once I shock it. I will measure the chlorine and record it and keep the level stable.
I don't even go that far. I've been running sterile with pool shock for 3 years or so now, when I started I was very precise and measured everything carefully. Now I keep a concentrated mix on hand in a gallon jug at all times and every few days I just drop a splash into the big res and call it good.

The stuff goes away so quick I've never had a problem with it building up in the reservoir. And as others have said if you're fighting something it will dissipate even faster making overdosing even harder.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
You running DWC once and not getting root rot is not really a good experiment. Without proper precautions in hydro it is not a matter of IF, it's a matter of WHEN you will get root rot. You can get lucky for years, but it only takes one lost crop to realize the benefits of preventative measures.



I don't even go that far. I've been running sterile with pool shock for 3 years or so now, when I started I was very precise and measured everything carefully. Now I keep a concentrated mix on hand in a gallon jug at all times and every few days I just drop a splash into the big res and call it good.

The stuff goes away so quick I've never had a problem with it building up in the reservoir. And as others have said if you're fighting something it will dissipate even faster making overdosing even harder.
after you use if for awhile, you can kinda go by smell as to when more needs to be added.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I have questions about this. won't the chlorine from this be gone in 48 hours. I think its about 2.5 grams for my 75 gallon res. What else should I know? I got root rot and plan going this route if its not cleared in a few days. I just upped the dosage of Hydrogaurd and used Phyton 27 to hopefully clear it up.

Im debating just making plants clones as well. They are a little small though, leaves are all straight down. I didn't know what it was at first thought it was under/over feed.
Evaporation rate depends on aeration and water temp. I simply go by smell. I have to add every other day with my DWC system, typical water temp 79-80F. Every third day with lower water temps (69-70F) from my experience.
 

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
after you use if for awhile, you can kinda go by smell as to when more needs to be added.
Very good point.

A friend was unboxing his Build A Soil kit yesterday and his wife caught a good whiff and just about puked from the stink. Reminded me how much I love my grow smelling nice and clean. (Plus not having to deal with gnats, rot, slime, algae, or any other craziness.)
 

Ladiesonly

Well-Known Member
Evaporation rate depends on aeration and water temp. I simply go by smell. I have to add every other day with my DWC system, typical water temp 79-80F. Every third day with lower water temps (69-70F) from my experience.
No not evaporation chlorine goes a
Very good point.

A friend was unboxing his Build A Soil kit yesterday and his wife caught a good whiff and just about puked from the stink. Reminded me how much I love my grow smelling nice and clean. (Plus not having to deal with gnats, rot, slime, algae, or any other craziness.)
Do you run shock a whole veg or bloom cycle. Im using it for 10 days before I flip to flower. I was curious if you hydrogaurd, then when trouble break out the pool shock or pool shock always in res. Im sort of tired of algae thinking to run this always.
 

Ladiesonly

Well-Known Member
There has to be more to root rot....I have ran an experimental grow in dwc and did not change the res once throughout the entire grow in a 5 gallon res. No chiller either. I used hydroguard once a month and not once had a problem. I was topping up over a gallon a day so I am thinking the constant replenishing made me less prone to rot.
I don't know could be genetics.
 

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
Do you run shock a whole veg or bloom cycle. Im using it for 10 days before I flip to flower. I was curious if you hydrogaurd, then when trouble break out the pool shock or pool shock always in res. Im sort of tired of algae thinking to run this always.
I run my pool shock solution in all 3 reservoirs, from clone all the way to harvest. I never had good luck with Hydroguard at all...
 

harvey_m

New Member
Adding supplements like that isn't addressing the root cause though. The cause is insufficient aeration. With sufficient aeration, you can run your solution temps into the mid 80s with clean roots. Not rot, no decay, no smell, even adding weird things like botanicare's liquid karma. I know, because I did that for years.
 

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
Adding supplements like that isn't addressing the root cause though.
This is not a supplement so much as it is a preventive measure for hydro, much in the same way as IPM is a preventive measure against bugs.

The cause is insufficient aeration.
There are multiple factors that can cause bacteria/algae to bloom in your reservoir -- lack of aeration is one of them. Heat is another. Aeration alone will not prevent 100% of the potential issues in hydro. Letting a reservoir get into the 80s is just asking for problems and is overall bad advice. Light leaks into the reservoir are another potential problem, as well as pumping unfiltered air through your air stones.

It's taken me years of experimenting to get where I am with my hydro setup. I'm run multiple 2x4 air stones (HEPA filtered) in my large reservoir along with a glycol cooling loop that uses both an aquarium heater and 1/10HP chiller to maintain exactly 68F. Even with all of that aeration, proper temp management, a light-proof reservoir chamber, and a full RO system -- I still run sterile. There are no drawbacks and it prevents any potential problems.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
No not evaporation chlorine goes a
What are you trying to present here bud?

I've been using chlorine as a sterilizing agent successfully in DWC for at least 10 years. Commercial hydroponic farmers have been doing this forever.

Chlorine has been used for water treatment well over 100 years now. 4ppm chlorine is acceptable as drinking water and is safe for humans and most plants.

Aim for 2-3ppm and add more when residual reaches 0.5ppm (not detectable by smell). Cheers!
This is not a supplement so much as it is a preventive measure for hydro, much in the same way as IPM is a preventive measure against bugs.
Wrong. Adding chlorine is adding supplemental chlorine. It's a tertiary nutrient for Cannabis.
 
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Ladiesonly

Well-Known Member
What are you trying to present here bud?

I was trying to say chlorine doesn't go down from water evaporation. Its small.

Whats up man. 1st and foremost I have a pool. I would say I would love to do something in my res like float a tab. Is this possible? How do you measure such a small amount of chlorine? Do you run part of a tab in a float? how do you put it in? I just have 2 big res
 

harvey_m

New Member
There are multiple factors that can cause bacteria/algae to bloom in your reservoir -- lack of aeration is one of them. Heat is another. Aeration alone will not prevent 100% of the potential issues in hydro. Letting a reservoir get into the 80s is just asking for problems and is overall bad advice.
Well, if I were to have been able to give this advice to myself years ago, it sure wouldn't have been bad! I never got any type of root rot or damage doing that for multiple years, and instead of running a chiller, I was able to use that same power to run another light. My setup may have been unique in that I was running a pond/septic/fishery style aeration setup, not airstones with the little air pumps most people seem to use. It made my 45 or 60 gal dwc tubs look like water at a low boil. That is the biggest reason I switched to that setup vs my sprayer system in tubes. I can't remember the cycle time, (maybe 2 off 1 min on?) but I found that the 68 degree recommendation was not sufficient for that, likely due to the pooled water warming in the tubes on the off cycle. 62 degrees woke the plants right up. But with the knowledge I have now, I'd bet adding airstones inside the tubes would have accomplished the same thing. As I'm sure you, and most people in hydroponics know, water's ability to hold oxygen is inversely proportional to temp, but what a lot of people don't also seem to consider is with bubbles coming up through the water, it doesn't matter if the water can "hold" that oxygen at all, as long as it comes in contact with the roots.

I always wondered how high I could actually run that system without damage. Higher grow room temp is higher plant metabolism, but also higher transpiration, etc. I was running a co2 burner. Typically the room was in the low 80s, but in the summer it frequently could get higher.
 

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
Wrong. Adding chlorine is adding supplemental chlorine. It's a tertiary nutrient for Cannabis.
I think you need to reread what I wrote. We're not using it to supplement nutrients, we're using it as a preventive measure. I don't care if it provides a tertiary nutrient (or that it breaks down into additional calcium), I care that it cleans my reservoir.

I was trying to say chlorine doesn't go down from water evaporation. Its small.
Are you thinking of Chloramine instead of Chlorine?

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Whats up man. 1st and foremost I have a pool. I would say I would love to do something in my res like float a tab. Is this possible? How do you measure such a small amount of chlorine? Do you run part of a tab in a float? how do you put it in? I just have 2 big res
There are a lot of threads around about how different people mix the pool shock. I make a concentrate solution (5 grams of HTH to 1 gallon of water) then I use this concentrate to dose the reservoir a few times a week.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
This is not a supplement so much as it is a preventive measure for hydro, much in the same way as IPM is a preventive measure against bugs.



There are multiple factors that can cause bacteria/algae to bloom in your reservoir -- lack of aeration is one of them. Heat is another. Aeration alone will not prevent 100% of the potential issues in hydro. Letting a reservoir get into the 80s is just asking for problems and is overall bad advice. Light leaks into the reservoir are another potential problem, as well as pumping unfiltered air through your air stones.

It's taken me years of experimenting to get where I am with my hydro setup. I'm run multiple 2x4 air stones (HEPA filtered) in my large reservoir along with a glycol cooling loop that uses both an aquarium heater and 1/10HP chiller to maintain exactly 68F. Even with all of that aeration, proper temp management, a light-proof reservoir chamber, and a full RO system -- I still run sterile. There are no drawbacks and it prevents any potential problems.
Got it! Dissipation is the correct term. People have an easier time understanding the concept of evaporation. Cheers!
 

SuperiorBuds

Well-Known Member
My setup may have been unique in that I was running a pond/septic/fishery style aeration setup, not airstones with the little air pumps most people seem to use.
I don't use a little air setup, either. In fact my big res has serious movement - I hate stagnant reservoirs, just another way for bacteria to breed.

Here's an older overview of my reservoir, glycol reservoir, and chiller setup.

http://instagr.am/p/BzBWOYWgviP/
It really sounds like you had other factors that were helping you out. It's like folks who don't do IPM because they have never got bugs in their garden. It's doubtful you found a way to defy the science and more likely had a combination of good cleaning practices and some luck.
 

harrythehat

Well-Known Member
I have questions about this. won't the chlorine from this be gone in 48 hours. I think its about 2.5 grams for my 75 gallon res. What else should I know? I got root rot and plan going this route if its not cleared in a few days. I just upped the dosage of Hydrogaurd and used Phyton 27 to hopefully clear it up.

Im debating just making plants clones as well. They are a little small though, leaves are all straight down. I didn't know what it was at first thought it was under/over feed.
What you should be asking is what is causing root rot in my system.
You are in the early stages so it will not get any better and will likely cause a complete failure
lets have a look at your system if we can.
can advise further once the specs are known.
P.S.
Change the nutrient for a start
 

Ladiesonly

Well-Known Member
What you should be asking is what is causing root rot in my system.
You are in the early stages so it will not get any better and will likely cause a complete failure
lets have a look at your system if we can.
can advise further once the specs are known.
P.S.
Change the nutrient for a start
MY system is 50 gallon res and 3x3 tray and 6" net pots. The seeds were started in rockwool and stuck in leca. Its been 4 days I feel like there branching out a little but leaves are still pretty bad. Im hitting them with 2.5 shock every other days.

Next to this tent I have 4x4 tray and no issues its in flower.

I think the 3x3 has issues as things weren't sterile. Im using bonicare nuts
 
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