PPM/PH Facts

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
So I'm creating this to reduce my redundancy.
Consider this as my reference thread so I don't have to type the same stuff over and over again, I understand it can be cumbersome to search through threads endlessly only to find partial, inconsistent and often plain false information. I was considering the advanced thread section but considering this isn't a technique I didn't seem a valid action. Also, I believe this should be common knowledge and not the result of years of research. I mean, this millennia is all about instant gratification right?

If you aren't a reader and want some straight facts I will post a summary at the end of the post.

If you can site sources with contradicting, updating or even additional information all updates will be reflected to this initial post so no specific page searching is necessary.

PPM
1st. What is EC?
It's a measure of ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY in a solution. Not "Total Dissolved Solids" as it is generally sold, spread and thought.
Think Total dissolved salts instead.
Water with a ppm of 0PPM could effectively negate electrical conductivity if it hasn't absorbed the carbon from the air creating carbonic acid.

Also! If a source of fertilizer isn't electrically conductive, it won't register on a EC/PPM reading. Organic growers have long touted the lack of importance to check feed ppms. I think knowing everything you can is what's truly important.

2nd. Why and how it affects feedings.
I'm sure you have heard of tip burn right? Maybe we should start calling it Tip drying? Nah.. Tip burn is fine.
"Tip burn is the result of high ppm" I'm very sure you've heard that one. Why is this? Your plant has an EC measurement of it's own, after storing so many it will rise. Which is why we raise the EC or PPM's of a feeding. When we raise the electrical conductivity of a solution, that solution has a higher pressure.

P(osm) = 1.19 (T + 273) *Σ(mi) (1)
where P(osm)= osmotic pressure (in psi),
T is the temperature (in°C),
and Σ(mi) is the sum of molal concentration of all constituents in a solution.
An approximation for P(osm) may be made by assuming that 1000 ppm of Total Dissolved Salts
(TDS) equals about 11 psi (0.76 bar) of osmotic pressure.

As we know osmosis is a process by which molecules of a solvent tend to pass through a semipermeable membrane from a less concentrated solution into a more concentrated one, thus equalizing the concentrations on each side of the membrane.
Low(er) ppm high water [Soil] -> High(er) ppm (concentration) Low water [Plant cells]
Think 1L with 1000ppm(Soil) -> 1mL @ 100ppm (Plant Cell)
The 1L may have more ppm but the 1mL is more concentrated.
[1mL @ 100ppm x 1000 = 1L @ 100,000 ppms]

Kind of sounds like underfeeding might be more dangerous but infact the Plant cells have a higher concentration of salts due to relative concentrations.
P(osm)
The pressure that would have to be applied to a pure solvent to prevent it from passing into a given solution by osmosis, often used to express the concentration of the solution -
the PPM in leaf tissues are actually taking up the lower concentrations except when the osmotic pressure is too high (High PPM) this is when the Atmospheric pressure further affects translocation of our nutrients. If you have an atmospheric pressure that exceeds osmotic pressure the plant will not uptake nutrients because the lack of transpiration.
The lower the Humidity (Low Atmospheric Pressure) the more negative pressure (Pulling from leaves -> atmosphere) the higher the PPMs in the feeding solution before osmotic pressure results in creating a "Reverse Osmosis"

Sum up -
High soil moisture->Positive pressure(Soil->Roots->Leaves->Atmosphere) {Wet vs dry soil}
Osmotic pressure->Negative pressure(<water + >PPM {Feed solution} -> >Water + <PPM {Plant cells})
Atmospheric pressure->Dynamic pressure(Higher -> Lower Pressures {regulated by stomata})

Now what does this equate to theoretically?

If you feed your plants higher ppm than inside the cells, and the soil moisture is low, and the pressure in the atmosphere isn't pulling hard enough on the stomata (When it is too high of humidity[High AP]) The water will actually pull from the leaves back into xylem and eventually sit where it finds equilibrium (The goal of all pressures)
TIP BURN

If you feed your plants higher ppm than inside the cells (remember the cell walls AND Feed solution have osmotic pressure of their own) and the soil moisture is high (high root pressure), and the atmospheric pressure is high then the water will move according to hydro-static pressure (Water levels are at equillibrium and is affected mostly by gravity) causing pressure in the cell walls, but a lack of transpiration. Think of a glass half full and your straw only reaches 1cm into the cup.
WRINKLY AND BLOATED LEAVES

If you feed your plants a higher ppm solution than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and the atmosphere is pulling the water from the stomata (Low AP) than transpiration is possible but more water than nutrients are taken up. Your straw now reaches as far as the waters equilibrium by gravity and the root pressure keeps your straw supplied.

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is low, Plants can transpire and effectively translocate ions because it's not fighting the atmosphere to equate turgor pressure .

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is low and atmospheric pressure is low(low humidity less pull) plants will close stomata to reserve water WASTE.

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is high, water will exit stomata slower, as the root pressure isn't as strong as transpiration and both are affected by osmotic pressure (Low ppm high water -> high ppm low water)

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cell walls, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is low (Pulling water from the leaves) plants can effectively transpire and translocate Ions.

I hope you get the idea because I lost interest in going through all of them and I feel i have lost a bit of direction.
On a side note, low transpiration rates will cause inadequate calcium translocation because it is immobile and relies on transpiration for movement.
If you are having calcium issues, check your Humidity first, leaf surface temperature second (Low LST causes slower transpiration and enzyme/metabolic activity hence the low temps=Slow growth) and finally try adding calmag. If you would like an alternative, add amino acids from plant protein hydroslate as these initiate enzymes that create Calcium ion channels that can increase calcium uptake exponentially.
High humidity + high temperatures = Leaf temperature overload/Lack of transpirational cooling.
High humidity + low temps = Low metabolic activity lack of transpiration.
Low humidity + high temps = rapid transpiration or closing of stomata high metabolic activity without restoring nutrient reserves
low humidity + low temps = low metabolic activity higher transpiration = nutrients not used optimally.

VPD is your friend here and leaf surface temperatures are happy at 85F+\-
Closer lights = higher LST remedied by lowering ambient temps but reduce soil activity as they aren't getting heated by the lights.

I DIGRESS.
High ppm = Keeping soil moist more often(Make sure you have oxygenated roots) and lowering humidity(Not crazy, but not >65%)

PH
1st. If you thought PPM could be convoluted try this!
You've seen a nice little chart before like this
http://www.growing-life.com/shop/pH_and_Nutrient_Availability_chart.html
Or maybe like this crazy looking one
https://www.growweedeasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/soil-ph-chart-marijuana.jpg

But did you know that these charts used a specific form of each nutrient.
Phosphoric acid
calcium phosphate
Rock Phosphate
Mono ammonium Phosphate

All these have phosphorus in them but phosphoric acid can bond easily to calcium creating calcium phosphate. 95% water insoluble(Water is our conduit for ion translocation) and is only available as nutrition at a ph >7 on top of that.
Rock Phosphate is available at a ph <5.5 and is commonly used in organic farming. why does it work? The complex chain is broken down by soil microbiology over a long period of time.

MAP is available immediately when diluted in water and the Ammonium and Phosphorus chains break apart providing nitrogen ions and phosphorus ions. Meaning that chart is more than likely accurate when referring to this particular form of P.

This one is easier to sum up.
PH is relative, Indica strains have developed near more neutral/alkaline soil. Sativa is accustomed to acidic soil. does that super matter? No, but I do believe mixing and matching brands of fertilizers cause many unknown problems because your ph is in that range on the chart but you're experiencing deficiencies with only the PH to blame as the nutrients are present.

Companies(Most) have tested their proprietary blend and all of their nutrients are available and released at their "preffered" PH.

If you like a brand, try their whole line up instead of cutting corners because this guys calmag is cheap but homeboys Bloom is affordable. Ask customer service for their PH range, It's kind of funny how we have a wide range of PH preferences and it works for each of us but bash on someone who uses a ph that would "Kill my plants"
 
Last edited:

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
OVERVIEW:

Lower ppms are easier to maintain healthy plants than high ppm's.
Before trying to overstuff your plants with fertilizers, make sure your environment is at least adequately under control first. raise ppms 50-150ppm each feeding and observe both growth and leaf tip margins.

PH can seem irrelevant now but it is super important. I don't care how organic you are, ph<4 will kill roots and bacteria and ph>8 will kill roots and fungi. Try to buy a lineup from a supplier instead of mixing and matching. Besides optimal PH's per brand, they have their ratios decently mitigated in terms of useless salts in excess.

PLEASE CORRECT ANY INFO. All comments, even trolls, are welcome.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
PLEASE CORRECT ANY INFO. All comments, even trolls, are welcome.


PPM
1st. What is EC?
It's a measure of ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY in a solution. Not "Total Dissolved Solids" as it is generally sold, spread and thought.
Think Total dissolved salts instead. BZZT, SOLIDS not "salts."
Water with a ppm of 0PPM could effectively negate electrical conductivity if it hasn't absorbed the carbon from the air creating carbonic acid.

Also! If a source of fertilizer isn't electrically conductive, it won't register on a EC/PPM reading. Organic growers have long touted the lack of importance to check feed ppms. I think knowing everything you can is what's truly important.

You should be growing by NPK values...This is done by % of concentration by volume - The way NPK is measured in the nutrient bottle anyway.

2nd. Why and how it affects feedings.
I'm sure you have heard of tip burn right? Maybe we should start calling it Tip drying? Nah.. Tip burn is fine.
"Tip burn is the result of high ppm" I'm very sure you've heard that one. Why is this? Your plant has an EC measurement of it's own, after storing so many it will rise. Which is why we raise the EC or PPM's of a feeding. When we raise the electrical conductivity of a solution, that solution has a higher pressure.

TIP BURN? Where did this reference come in anyway?
I sometimes grow to some little tip burn...Tells me I'm right there as far as "pushing" my plant goes. This is true even for the bulk of my runs. These are water only organic soils that I build myself.


P(osm) = 1.19 (T + 273) *Σ(mi) (1)
where P(osm)= osmotic pressure (in psi),
T is the temperature (in°C),
and Σ(mi) is the sum of molal concentration of all constituents in a solution.
An approximation for P(osm) may be made by assuming that 1000 ppm of Total Dissolved Salts
(TDS) equals about 11 psi (0.76 bar) of osmotic pressure.

As we know osmosis is a process by which molecules of a solvent tend to pass through a semipermeable membrane from a less concentrated solution into a more concentrated one, thus equalizing the concentrations on each side of the membrane.
Low(er) ppm high water [Soil] -> High(er) ppm (concentration) Low water [Plant cells]
Think 1L with 1000ppm(Soil) -> 1mL @ 100ppm (Plant Cell)
The 1L may have more ppm but the 1mL is more concentrated.
[1mL @ 100ppm x 1000 = 1L @ 100,000 ppms]

WTF? Teaching a college class to grade school growers is really not needed here...KISS goes a lot father with the bulk of these folks trying to learn to grow.

Kind of sounds like underfeeding might be more dangerous but infact the Plant cells have a higher concentration of salts due to relative concentrations.
P(osm) Best to remove the term "SALTS" and change that to "ions." I mean if your teach a college level class...Use the right terms!
The pressure that would have to be applied to a pure solvent to prevent it from passing into a given solution by osmosis, often used to express the concentration of the solution -
the PPM in leaf tissues are actually taking up the lower concentrations except when the osmotic pressure is too high (High PPM) this is when the Atmospheric pressure further affects translocation of our nutrients. If you have an atmospheric pressure that exceeds osmotic pressure the plant will not uptake nutrients because the lack of transpiration.
The lower the Humidity (Low Atmospheric Pressure) the more negative pressure (Pulling from leaves -> atmosphere) the higher the PPMs in the feeding solution before osmotic pressure results in creating a "Reverse Osmosis"

Sum up -
High soil moisture->Positive pressure(Soil->Roots->Leaves->Atmosphere) {Wet vs dry soil}
Osmotic pressure->Negative pressure(<water + >PPM {Feed solution} -> >Water + <PPM {Plant cells})
Atmospheric pressure->Dynamic pressure(Higher -> Lower Pressures {regulated by stomata})

Now what does this equate to theoretically?

If you feed your plants higher ppm than inside the cells, and the soil moisture is low, and the pressure in the atmosphere isn't pulling hard enough on the stomata (When it is too high of humidity[High AP]) The water will actually pull from the leaves back into xylem and eventually sit where it finds equilibrium (The goal of all pressures)
TIP BURN

If you feed your plants higher ppm than inside the cells (remember the cell walls AND Feed solution have osmotic pressure of their own) and the soil moisture is high (high root pressure), and the atmospheric pressure is high then the water will move according to hydro-static pressure (Water levels are at equillibrium and is affected mostly by gravity) causing pressure in the cell walls, but a lack of transpiration. Think of a glass half full and your straw only reaches 1cm into the cup.
WRINKLY AND BLOATED LEAVES

If you feed your plants a higher ppm solution than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and the atmosphere is pulling the water from the stomata (Low AP) than transpiration is possible but more water than nutrients are taken up. Your straw now reaches as far as the waters equilibrium by gravity and the root pressure keeps your straw supplied.

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is low, Plants can transpire and effectively translocate ions because it's not fighting the atmosphere to equate turgor pressure .

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is low and atmospheric pressure is low(low humidity less pull) plants will close stomata to reserve water WASTE.

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cells, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is high, water will exit stomata slower, as the root pressure isn't as strong as transpiration and both are affected by osmotic pressure (Low ppm high water -> high ppm low water)

If you feed your plants a lower ppm than inside the cell walls, the soil moisture is high and atmospheric pressure is low (Pulling water from the leaves) plants can effectively transpire and translocate Ions.

I hope you get the idea because I lost interest in going through all of them and I feel i have lost a bit of direction.
On a side note, low transpiration rates will cause inadequate calcium translocation because it is immobile and relies on transpiration for movement.
If you are having calcium issues, check your Humidity first, leaf surface temperature second (Low LST causes slower transpiration and enzyme/metabolic activity hence the low temps=Slow growth) and finally try adding calmag. If you would like an alternative, add amino acids from plant protein hydroslate as these initiate enzymes that create Calcium ion channels that can increase calcium uptake exponentially.
High humidity + high temperatures = Leaf temperature overload/Lack of transpirational cooling.
High humidity + low temps = Low metabolic activity lack of transpiration.
Low humidity + high temps = rapid transpiration or closing of stomata high metabolic activity without restoring nutrient reserves
low humidity + low temps = low metabolic activity higher transpiration = nutrients not used optimally.

VPD is your friend here and leaf surface temperatures are happy at 85F+\-
Closer lights = higher LST remedied by lowering ambient temps but reduce soil activity as they aren't getting heated by the lights.

VPD is best used in cannabis growing, by those that use Co2 gas! It's kinda over rated here. One of our things we fear is PM. PM easily comes into play by growing at over 50% RH....
EVERY grow book out there will tell you to grow at 50% RH.....I run mine down to 45% ( Goes to about 42 % from the over run from it being set to 45% and it fires the Deheuly at 50%)
 
Last edited:

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
PLEASE CORRECT ANY INFO. All comments, even trolls, are welcome.
I DIGRESS.
High ppm = Keeping soil moist more often(Make sure you have oxygenated roots) and lowering humidity(Not crazy, but not >65%)

DIAL IT IN! Every time you grow a new strain...you dial in your feeding to that strains needs.....Part of that dial in is due to the environment you grow in... Know why your grow times vary from others? Because your environment is different then others! The above info is confusing and over the top for most growers! Unneeded details to 98% of container plant growers.

PH
1st. If you thought PPM could be convoluted try this!
You've seen a nice little chart before like this
http://www.growing-life.com/shop/pH_and_Nutrient_Availability_chart.html
Or maybe like this crazy looking one
https://www.growweedeasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/soil-ph-chart-marijuana.jpg

But did you know that these charts used a specific form of each nutrient.
Phosphoric acid
calcium phosphate
Rock Phosphate
Mono ammonium Phosphate

SO WHAT? These are actually pretty damn good charts for new growers! At least they get the idea of why some defs. are happening... How abut you don't mention that pH swings in nature are NORMAL and natures way of allowing proper nutrient uptake?
I always found it odd that most grow bibles don't mention in hydro growing sections. That it is a good idea to pH the solution to the low end of the grow spectrum and then don't adjust it till it gets near the high end? You get a better, more natural pH "swing" like in nature....Better nutrient up-take across the nutrient spectrum.


All these have phosphorus in them but phosphoric acid can bond easily to calcium creating calcium phosphate. 95% water insoluble(Water is our conduit for ion translocation) and is only available as nutrition at a ph >7 on top of that.
Rock Phosphate is available at a ph <5.5 and is commonly used in organic farming. why does it work? The complex chain is broken down by soil microbiology over a long period of time.

MAP is available immediately when diluted in water and the Ammonium and Phosphorus chains break apart providing nitrogen ions and phosphorus ions. Meaning that chart is more than likely accurate when referring to this particular form of P.

So what? Back to unneeded college level info.... Your not giving important usable intel!

This one is easier to sum up.
PH is relative, Indica strains have developed near more neutral/alkaline soil. Sativa is accustomed to acidic soil. does that super matter? No, but I do believe mixing and matching brands of fertilizers cause many unknown problems because your ph is in that range on the chart but you're experiencing deficiencies with only the PH to blame as the nutrients are present.

In reality, the soil pH differences used by Indica's vs. Sativa's. are only measured in 10th's of 1 percent.....Meaningless in the grand picture of cannabis growing.

Companies(Most) have tested their proprietary blend and all of their nutrients are available and released at their "preffered" PH.

If you like a brand, try their whole line up instead of cutting corners because this guys calmag is cheap but homeboys Bloom is affordable. Ask customer service for their PH range, It's kind of funny how we have a wide range of PH preferences and it works for each of us but bash on someone who uses a ph that would "Kill my plants"

This also an unneeded set of information. Basically useless really.

OVERVIEW:

Lower ppms are easier to maintain healthy plants than high ppm's.
Before trying to overstuff your plants with fertilizers, make sure your environment is at least adequately under control first. raise ppms 50-150ppm each feeding and observe both growth and leaf tip margins.

Not bad here. Advanced growers will ignore.

PH can seem irrelevant now but it is super important. I don't care how organic you are, ph<4 will kill roots and bacteria and ph>8 will kill roots and fungi. Try to buy a lineup from a supplier instead of mixing and matching. Besides optimal PH's per brand, they have their ratios decently mitigated in terms of useless salts in excess.

NO fucking organic grower will have a pH of less then 4 or over 8 at any time! Hell, you get below 5 for any length of time and you'll know you have a problem brewing fast.!

Simply say.....
If you grow in soil with synthetic nutrients. Keep your solutions between 5 and 7.5 pH. I liked to set mine to 6.5 in veg and 6.7 in bloom.
If you grow in hydro....The most given range to hold by grow books - 5.8 to 6.2 I always found that to work the best for me
If you grow in organic soil and keep a nice active bio heard. Forget about pH, soil self pH's


If your looking for a pat on the back for good work?
I'll say interesting in depth research, not well applied....
 
Last edited:

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Vpd and humidity are lesser factors due to the leaf morphology and that it is linked to its immediate environment so makes changes to compensate.

I like the basic info but rarely is it species specific.

:-)
 

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
Well, I'd like to start with extending my appreciation for your acknowledgement of my post.

Secondly i'd like you to respect science and stop spurting the first thing your narcissistic mind can think of. I guess i'll do this chronologically for readers that kept interest up to this point.

Third, Roll one up for the read. It might?... help...

1)"Think Total dissolved salts instead. BZZT, SOLIDS not "salts."
The sources of total dissolved solids include all of the dissolved cations and anions.

i'm sorry but solids are seriously misinterpreted.

noun: solid; plural noun: solids
a substance or object that is solid rather than liquid or fluid.

Are pathogens liquid or solid? Can you measure pathogens with a TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS meter? Right...
https://www.water-research.net/index.php/water-treatment/tools/total-dissolved-solids
https://www.hydroviv.com/blogs/water-smarts/tds-meters-and-testers

2) You should be growing by NPK values...This is done by % of concentration by volume - The way NPK is measured in the nutrient bottle anyway.

This is severely misinforming because you don't just get 10% Nitrogen from a 10-10-10
First of all, 10% of what? A gallon? Oh 10% of the ENTIRE nutrient is (enter nutrient here)
Secondly, 10% usually isn't just nitrogen, they're accounting for Nitrates, Ammonium, even nitrites.
The most fundamental difference between nitrite and nitrate molecules is that while they both contain nitrogen and oxygen, the number of oxygen atoms is different. Both nitrate and nitrite molecules contain one nitrogen atom, but nitrates have three atoms of oxygen and nitrites have only two. but even more importantly, is this nitrogen source water solube and are the molecules available through ion exchange at the root zone.
Sure, they're garden fertilizers, of course. but how much?

http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447043&topicorder=11&maxto=15
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Why_nitrate_is_considered_to_be_the_best_form_of_nirogen_for_plant
http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf

3) WTF? Teaching a college class to grade school growers is really not needed here...KISS goes a lot father with the bulk of these folks trying to learn to grow.

I'm sorry,but i've spent money and time on growing cannabis as have all of us.
I'm here to breed knowledge, keep breeding ignorance and see how far you will take your people.

Edit: After thinking about what you said, I must ask, are you making the assumption for the masses that they don't need to know? Or have I somehow offended you? One sounds like a totalitarian standpoint and the other requires you to admit to fault. Which one is it?
You're comment about "teaching a college class" is usually a compliment 'round these parts but obviously you're attacking me in either defense of yourself or offense of myself.

I'm curious Dr. Do you really think i'm the only mind that would inquire about why cannabis does "what"?
Or is it that you aren't one of those minds, and cannot accept others for their differences.
None of your post was informing, so I am left to wonder your purpose and motives.

Who here wants to spend 15,000 on botany, cultivation and specifically cannabis college courses? I did, so everyone shouldn't have to. Cannabis isn't keeping it simple. It's a passion where those who inquire are rewarded. I hear you're organic, have you ever even heard of Dr. Elaine Ingham? What about Jeff Lowenfels?

Do you think they kept it simple? Have some damn respect.

4) Best to remove the term "SALTS" and change that to "ions." I mean if your teach a college level class...Use the right terms!

A salt is a chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation.
Not just ions Mr. Ignorance. Big difference.

5) VPD is best used in cannabis growing, by those that use Co2 gas! It's kinda over rated here. One of our things we fear is PM. PM easily comes into play by growing at over 50% RH....
EVERY grow book out there will tell you to grow at 50% RH.....I run mine down to 45% ( Goes to about 42 % from the over run from it being set to 45% and it fires the Deheuly at 50%)

Powdery mildew should have been a thing of the past. If you even worry about it, it proves the ignorance.
https://www.easy-grow.co.uk/learning-from-the-dutch-preventing-powdery-mildew/

Powdery mildew has only happened to me once. Now humidity and powdery mildew are light years apart for me.

6) In reality, the soil pH differences used by Indica's vs. Sativa's. are only measured in 10th's of 1 percent.....Meaningless in the grand picture of cannabis growing.
This is simply something you made up in your mind.

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/12/161208143456.htm

A ph of 6.0 Is EXPONENTIALLY more acidic than that of 7. Not incrimentally.
Can you see Afghanistan? Hindu Kush mountains? Landrace strain Hindu kush? PH>7 Indica
What about Durban? Africa? PH<7
And since you're organic I assume you think Microbes are magically inert in terms of PH...
https://aem.asm.org/content/75/6/1589.short
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1567539408001369
Do you know why Microbes change the PH? Because they are resilient and making a home in your soil.

I'm going to assume you think cannabis is simple.
It's one of the most complex plants. Strains vary greatly yes. So much so that they can adapt to different PH's
https://www.jstor.org/stable/42937041?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents,

Cold cold temps
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25431421
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/a/antifreeze+proteins+afps.html
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ppl.12318

(Side note for those reading, anthocyanins are a pigment created in colored plants like cannabis, that change color expression according to Ph and when the temperatures drop creating an enviornment that allows chlorophyll breakdown and viola, colored cannabis. anthocyanins are best "excited" by 540nm light as apposed to Chlorophyll A 465 nm and 665 nm and B 453 nm and 642 nm and only appear when they are more abundant than other pigments.)

Colored cannabis is a maxima tribute to the adaptation of chlorophyll.

Also, no matter what you do, ph is going to "swing"
That's an effect of soil... I figured there was no need to bring it up and focused on controllable variables.
http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447041&topicorder=6&maxto=10
Hydroponics you say in your head?
Carbonic acid and the balance of Hydrogen ions. similar to soil, in that microbes in soil can actually fixate nitrogen present IN THE AIR.
It's called uh... nitrogen fixation...

I apologize if I've offended your keyboard with knowledge. Not sorry for offending your ego as it appears to have happened considering your inability to keep it simple on your end.
That's your motto right? Keep it stupid.

I want to review my post, but i'll let you do that and correct myself as needed. it's my bedtime.
 
Last edited:

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
Vpd and humidity are lesser factors due to the leaf morphology and that it is linked to its immediate environment so makes changes to compensate.

I like the basic info but rarely is it species specific.

:-)
Humidity can affect more than leaf morphology!
It can be the difference between available light intensity, water and nutrition use!

Meaning it effects us a little more = Yield, potency and money spent on unused nutrition and light.

Species specific regarding cannabis genus or the Indica/Sativa species?
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Humidity can affect more than leaf morphology!
It can be the difference between available light intensity, water and nutrition use!

Meaning it effects us a little more = Yield, potency and money spent on unused nutrition and light.

Species specific regarding cannabis genus or the Indica/Sativa species?
re-read, thats not what i said whatsoever dude.

You will have little understanding of humidity until you undestand leaf morphology....

:-)
 

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
Why so complicated?

It's a plant. Feed it modestly, give it light, decent environment, watch it grow.
re-read, thats not what i said whatsoever dude.

You will have little understanding of humidity until you undestand leaf morphology....

:-)
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1002007109003013

http://www.publish.csiro.au/BT/BT12110

Broaden your understandings and you will see that humidity isn't a sole factor.

Leaf morphology meaning the changes in expression of leaf characteristics in a species.

Humidity ranges in colorado (pueblo) from 30% to 60% in a day. How immediate do you think? More so, understanding humidity has far greater circumstances than morphology. It is only with indoor growing practices that we create this morphology.
https://www.currentresults.com/Weather/Colorado/humidity-annual.php
 

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
Why so complicated?

It's a plant. Feed it modestly, give it light, decent environment, watch it grow.
Because I feel as indoor growers we have become complacent.

https://thehill.com/blogs/pundits-blog/energy-environment/330899-protect-us-and-the-planet-embrace-scientific?amp

http://animalsmart.org/animals-and-the-environment/comparing-agriculture-of-the-past-with-today

If we didn't have the advancements of science you wouldn't have known about ppm or ph existing. You wouldn't be able to buy proprietary blends of your favorite nutrients, and most of all, your favorite strain probably wouldn't exist.

Respect science, even if it isn't for you.

Just because you don't understand it, it doesn't make it not exist.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry,but i've spent money and time on growing cannabis as have all of us.
I'm here to breed knowledge, keep breeding ignorance and see how far you will take your people.
a mass of facts isn't knowledge. being able to apply those facts to real world situations in the proper context is knowledge.
there is nothing wrong with knowing the theory behind the practice, but you don't need it. you just need to have good practices.
successful growers learn what they need to learn, or they aren't successful....
not every farmer is a botanist. actually, not many farmers are botanist. they don't know theory, and don't need to. they know how to read their crops, how to see a developing deficiency, a developing pest problem, and the steps they need to take to solve those problems.
there is nothing wrong with learning more about botany, biology, weather patterns.....but daily practical use and experience counts for a lot. people farmed for thousands of years before the first botanist graduated from school. they learned everything they needed to know from hands on experience.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Some people like to deep dive into a subject (people like me) and some don't. As long as the information is correct and presented well i will take all i can get. Some people only care about results. Either way, there is no reason to shit on those who are inquisitive. Lack of intellectual curiosity is most of what is wrong with the world
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Some people like to deep dive into a subject (people like me) and some don't. As long as the information is correct and presented well i will take all i can get. Some people only care about results. Either way, there is no reason to shit on those who are inquisitive. Lack of intellectual curiosity is most of what is wrong with the world
i actually am a delver myself, and am not shitting on curiosity or learning for learning sake. all i'm saying is don't assume that old man who never went past 5th grade doesn't know as much or more than you about practical application....30+years as a successful farmer ought to be considered an education of it's own
i would call any successful farmer a graduate of a damn difficult journeyman program
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Lack of intellectual curiosity is most of what is wrong with the world
i'd say a lot of people have plenty of intellectual curiosity, but don't have the time or financial ability to indulge their curiosity. after a week of work, a day of cleaning house, feeding the kids, running the errands you can't blow off...how much energy do you have left to put into research? if the answer to that isn't zero, more power to you....sometimes my answer is in the negative numbers...sometimes not, and that's when i do a lot of reading, and then try to actually apply what i've read.....if i don't fall asleep first
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Well, I'd like to start with extending my appreciation for your acknowledgement of my post.

Secondly i'd like you to respect science and stop spurting the first thing your narcissistic mind can think of. I guess i'll do this chronologically for readers that kept interest up to this point.

Third, Roll one up for the read. It might?... help...

1)"Think Total dissolved salts instead. BZZT, SOLIDS not "salts."
The sources of total dissolved solids include all of the dissolved cations and anions.

i'm sorry but solids are seriously misinterpreted.

noun: solid; plural noun: solids
a substance or object that is solid rather than liquid or fluid.

Are pathogens liquid or solid? Can you measure pathogens with a TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS meter? Right...
https://www.water-research.net/index.php/water-treatment/tools/total-dissolved-solids
https://www.hydroviv.com/blogs/water-smarts/tds-meters-and-testers

2) You should be growing by NPK values...This is done by % of concentration by volume - The way NPK is measured in the nutrient bottle anyway.

This is severely misinforming because you don't just get 10% Nitrogen from a 10-10-10
First of all, 10% of what? A gallon? Oh 10% of the ENTIRE nutrient is (enter nutrient here)
Secondly, 10% usually isn't just nitrogen, they're accounting for Nitrates, Ammonium, even nitrites.
The most fundamental difference between nitrite and nitrate molecules is that while they both contain nitrogen and oxygen, the number of oxygen atoms is different. Both nitrate and nitrite molecules contain one nitrogen atom, but nitrates have three atoms of oxygen and nitrites have only two. but even more importantly, is this nitrogen source water solube and are the molecules available through ion exchange at the root zone.
Sure, they're garden fertilizers, of course. but how much?

http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447043&topicorder=11&maxto=15
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Why_nitrate_is_considered_to_be_the_best_form_of_nirogen_for_plant
http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf

3) WTF? Teaching a college class to grade school growers is really not needed here...KISS goes a lot father with the bulk of these folks trying to learn to grow.

I'm sorry,but i've spent money and time on growing cannabis as have all of us.
I'm here to breed knowledge, keep breeding ignorance and see how far you will take your people.

Edit: After thinking about what you said, I must ask, are you making the assumption for the masses that they don't need to know? Or have I somehow offended you? One sounds like a totalitarian standpoint and the other requires you to admit to fault. Which one is it?
You're comment about "teaching a college class" is usually a compliment 'round these parts but obviously you're attacking me in either defense of yourself or offense of myself.

I'm curious Dr. Do you really think i'm the only mind that would inquire about why cannabis does "what"?
Or is it that you aren't one of those minds, and cannot accept others for their differences.
None of your post was informing, so I am left to wonder your purpose and motives.

Who here wants to spend 15,000 on botany, cultivation and specifically cannabis college courses? I did, so everyone shouldn't have to. Cannabis isn't keeping it simple. It's a passion where those who inquire are rewarded. I hear you're organic, have you ever even heard of Dr. Elaine Ingham? What about Jeff Lowenfels?

Do you think they kept it simple? Have some damn respect.

4) Best to remove the term "SALTS" and change that to "ions." I mean if your teach a college level class...Use the right terms!

A salt is a chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation.
Not just ions Mr. Ignorance. Big difference.

5) VPD is best used in cannabis growing, by those that use Co2 gas! It's kinda over rated here. One of our things we fear is PM. PM easily comes into play by growing at over 50% RH....
EVERY grow book out there will tell you to grow at 50% RH.....I run mine down to 45% ( Goes to about 42 % from the over run from it being set to 45% and it fires the Deheuly at 50%)

Powdery mildew should have been a thing of the past. If you even worry about it, it proves the ignorance.
https://www.easy-grow.co.uk/learning-from-the-dutch-preventing-powdery-mildew/

Powdery mildew has only happened to me once. Now humidity and powdery mildew are light years apart for me.

6) In reality, the soil pH differences used by Indica's vs. Sativa's. are only measured in 10th's of 1 percent.....Meaningless in the grand picture of cannabis growing.
This is simply something you made up in your mind.

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/12/161208143456.htm

A ph of 6.0 Is EXPONENTIALLY more acidic than that of 7. Not incrimentally.
Can you see Afghanistan? Hindu Kush mountains? Landrace strain Hindu kush? PH>7 Indica
What about Durban? Africa? PH<7
And since you're organic I assume you think Microbes are magically inert in terms of PH...
https://aem.asm.org/content/75/6/1589.short
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1567539408001369
Do you know why Microbes change the PH? Because they are resilient and making a home in your soil.

I'm going to assume you think cannabis is simple.
It's one of the most complex plants. Strains vary greatly yes. So much so that they can adapt to different PH's
https://www.jstor.org/stable/42937041?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents,

Cold cold temps
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25431421
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/a/antifreeze+proteins+afps.html
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ppl.12318

(Side note for those reading, anthocyanins are a pigment created in colored plants like cannabis, that change color expression according to Ph and when the temperatures drop creating an enviornment that allows chlorophyll breakdown and viola, colored cannabis. anthocyanins are best "excited" by 540nm light as apposed to Chlorophyll A 465 nm and 665 nm and B 453 nm and 642 nm and only appear when they are more abundant than other pigments.)

Colored cannabis is a maxima tribute to the adaptation of chlorophyll.

Also, no matter what you do, ph is going to "swing"
That's an effect of soil... I figured there was no need to bring it up and focused on controllable variables.
http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447041&topicorder=6&maxto=10
Hydroponics you say in your head?
Carbonic acid and the balance of Hydrogen ions. similar to soil, in that microbes in soil can actually fixate nitrogen present IN THE AIR.
It's called uh... nitrogen fixation...

I apologize if I've offended your keyboard with knowledge. Not sorry for offending your ego as it appears to have happened considering your inability to keep it simple on your end.
That's your motto right? Keep it stupid.

I want to review my post, but i'll let you do that and correct myself as needed. it's my bedtime.
You didn't reply to his post directly so I'm going to @Dr. Who in case he bypassed the alert.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
i actually am a delver myself, and am not shitting on curiosity or learning for learning sake. all i'm saying is don't assume that old man who never went past 5th grade doesn't know as much or more than you about practical application....30+years as a successful farmer ought to be considered an education of it's own
i would call any successful farmer a graduate of a damn difficult journeyman program
This is all true. My father was the first generation of my family that wasn't a farmer and i grew up on farms. I wasn't specifically referring to your post when i said what i said, just a general comment on society at large. We have far too many incurious, lazy, entitled, and arrogantly ignorant people walking around seeking instant gratification. They want results with no work and pretend to be experts without a lick of research. I swear, everytime i see someone respond to well thought out, heavily reasearched post with "tl:dr" i want to fucking scream.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Because I feel as indoor growers we have become complacent.

https://thehill.com/blogs/pundits-blog/energy-environment/330899-protect-us-and-the-planet-embrace-scientific?amp

http://animalsmart.org/animals-and-the-environment/comparing-agriculture-of-the-past-with-today

If we didn't have the advancements of science you wouldn't have known about ppm or ph existing. You wouldn't be able to buy proprietary blends of your favorite nutrients, and most of all, your favorite strain probably wouldn't exist.

Respect science, even if it isn't for you.

Just because you don't understand it, it doesn't make it not exist.
boy, you just suck a big greasy dick as a teacher.....i love to learn more about growing, but not from a mealy mouthed arrogant little fuck who feels like the world has to run his way or its all fucking useless......
this is your attempt at teaching, and it's a fucking miserable failure.....no one wants to be belittled by an instructor. no one wants an instructor that can't reply to constructive criticism politely and intelligently. i don't give a shit if you know everything there is to know about weed, i'd rather muddle through on my own than kiss your pimply ass for one fucking thing
 
Top