Pre charged Coco

Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
ifbleaf said:
What about hydrogen peroxide
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Good if you're growing mineralically - devastating to microbes in organic grows.

ifbleaf said:
npk 11:27:08 fertilizer
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this is not suitable for vegging, it's too much P, and that may cause some lockouts in that ratio. In veg you want N & P high, also CalMag in Coco naturally.

BTW Canna sells their own Coco Buffer Agent.

ifbleaf said:
redundant calmag
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Ca is together with N & K an element that is needed in much larger amounts than the rest... And because Ca is only passively taken in you want to give your roots a constant access to it.

bk78 said:
I use tap water and most definitely still need to add full strength calmag in every feed. Stop giving awful information to new growers.
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Yeah, tapwater contains alot of Ca-fallout (chalk) that isn't watersolube or plant-accessable at once. In a soil grow the microbes may change that but in a mineralic coco grow that's not really going to happen, and if, rather lackluster
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
jondamon said:
Based on this information I would suggest

500ppm daily feedings

switch to flower and up your ppm to around 700ppm.

after stretch go back down to 500ppm unless you get lower growth fading.
If you get Lower growth fade then up your ppl for a week of feeding.
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Ta
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Kassiopeija said:
Good if you're growing mineralically - devastating to microbes in organic grows.


this is not suitable for vegging, it's too much P, and that may cause some lockouts in that ratio. In veg you want N & P high, also CalMag in Coco naturally.

BTW Canna sells their own Coco Buffer Agent.


Ca is together with N & K an element that is needed in much larger amounts than the rest... And because Ca is only passively taken in you want to give your roots a constant access to it.


Yeah, tapwater contains alot of Ca-fallout (chalk) that isn't watersolube or plant-accessable at once. In a soil grow the microbes may change that but in a mineralic coco grow that's not really going to happen, and if, rather lackluster
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That NPK you’re quoting is the precharge mix in the Atami.

lasts about a week before it’s fully depleted.
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
Yeah I have to say I've been well confused in the past re a basic idea of coco growing. Can't say I've ever actually found a good basic set of instructions for it. That combined with my own impetuous nature has been frustrating. But I'm hoping to get something like a satisfying result now. Ha looking back I have to say that I've had modest results with nothing but a+b
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
ifbleaf said:
Yeah I have to say I've been well confused in the past re a basic idea of coco growing. Can't say I've ever actually found a good basic set of instructions for it. That combined with my own impetuous nature has been frustrating. But I'm hoping to get something like a satisfying result now. Ha looking back I have to say that I've had modest results with nothing but a+b
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If you search for my latest journal and start measuring EC you can pretty much follow along week for week with your feeding regime.

Seedlings early veg 0.6-0.8
Mid veg 1.0
Late veg 1.2
Stretch 1.4
Flowering 1.2
Mid flower 1.4
Late flower 1.2-0.8 reducing each week.
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
ifbleaf said:
Can't say I've ever actually found a good basic set of instructions for it. That combined with my own impetuous nature has been frustrating.
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I can understand that. There are alot of products on the market but not all fit well together with others. Experienced growers already know this and recognize it when bad advice is beibng passed out....

Cocos is good in combination with much perlite for an mineralic drain-to-waste grow. You can water daily and have alot of stuff automated. In combination with a professional tested nutrition product its almost always success if you just stick to the basic guidelines.

Soil is very easy for beginners as when you buy a good organic supersoil you only give tapwater. And fertilize if your eye says its time....
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
jondamon said:
If you search for my latest journal and start measuring EC you can pretty much follow along week for week with your feeding regime.

Seedlings early veg 0.6-0.8
Mid veg 1.0
Late veg 1.2
Stretch 1.4
Flowering 1.2
Mid flower 1.4
Late flower 1.2-0.8 reducing each week.
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I have an ec/ppm /temperature pen but do not understand how the four digits readout is read. I mean there's no decimal point . I've attached a picture. What is your journal title please.15967240409323110667095687992498.jpg. It measures micro seconds per cm
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
ifbleaf said:
I have an ec/ppm /temperature pen but do not understand how the four digits readout is read. I mean there's no decimal point . I've attached a picture. What is your journal title please.View attachment 4646052. It measures micro seconds per cm
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There is most likely a menu function in your instruction manual to change to EC.


here’s my journal.

What I’m doing now!

Just a few snaps from yesterday. 2x DINAFEM CRITICAL+ 1x DINAFEM WHITE SIBERIAN 1x DELICIOUS SEEDS ELEVEN ROSES Temps and RH can be seen in the pics. Plants are in straight coco (canna pro) with DUTCH PRO COCO GROW A/B with 0.2EC extra Ca. Feed EC 0.8. Water starting EC 0.2. pH in 6...
rollitup.org
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
Kassiopeija said:
I can understand that. There are alot of products on the market but not all fit well together with others. Experienced growers already know this and recognize it when bad advice is beibng passed out....

Cocos is good in combination with much perlite for an mineralic drain-to-waste grow. You can water daily and have alot of stuff automated. In combination with a professional tested nutrition product its almost always success if you just stick to the basic guidelines.

Soil is very easy for beginners as when you buy a good organic supersoil you only give tapwater. And fertilize if your eye says its time....
Click to expand...
Tried using soil and decided I would make a til free soil. Thrips ate my buds
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
jondamon said:
There is most likely a menu function in your instruction manual to change to EC.


here’s my journal.

What I’m doing now!

Just a few snaps from yesterday. 2x DINAFEM CRITICAL+ 1x DINAFEM WHITE SIBERIAN 1x DELICIOUS SEEDS ELEVEN ROSES Temps and RH can be seen in the pics. Plants are in straight coco (canna pro) with DUTCH PRO COCO GROW A/B with 0.2EC extra Ca. Feed EC 0.8. Water starting EC 0.2. pH in 6...
rollitup.org
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Nice .
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
jondamon said:
There is most likely a menu function in your instruction manual to change to EC.


here’s my journal.

What I’m doing now!

Just a few snaps from yesterday. 2x DINAFEM CRITICAL+ 1x DINAFEM WHITE SIBERIAN 1x DELICIOUS SEEDS ELEVEN ROSES Temps and RH can be seen in the pics. Plants are in straight coco (canna pro) with DUTCH PRO COCO GROW A/B with 0.2EC extra Ca. Feed EC 0.8. Water starting EC 0.2. pH in 6...
rollitup.org
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Can't find a function menu and don't have the manual. Would you know what the reading it gives is meant to represent? I'll try to find out on Google and what ever.
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
ifbleaf said:
Can't find a function menu and don't have the manual. Would you know what the reading it gives is meant to represent? I'll try to find out on Google and what ever.
Click to expand...
When it’s in EC mode it will read in 0.1 increments.

0.1, 0.2, 0.3 etc.

1.0 EC is the same as 500ppm for .5 or 700ppm for .7

1.0EC = 500ppm = 700ppm = 10CF
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
15967371047757459250801641702965.jpg5× feminised wss Trainwreck & the bottom left corner is 420fastbuds d'quar reg. The d'quar is about a month older than the others which are 3weeks since I put the seeds into wet tissue. I'm quite pleased with them. I know there's some poorly looking leaves on the older plant but it is all in hand now
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
Too late to flush the coco first,that is what you meant isn't it? I've got the plants in it and they're doing ok. I'm trying to be disciplined cos I have wasted too much effort b4 now!! So I was getting worried about the pre charged issue which, touch wood, hasn't been a problem.
 
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ifbleaf

Active Member
So I have done some reading up on basic nutrient deficiencies! The plants have a tiny bit of brown spot on a few leaves (leaves or leafs?) Not even every plant. There's a couple of twisted leaves, again not on all of them. There's a tiny bit of yellow coming between the viens on a few and some leafs have curled up on the edge. There's also some bottom leafs dying, just one or two,they're going yellowy white and spreading from the tip towards the stalk. plus they have all been a bit pale green. They're starting to get a bit darker in the new growth which is close to vigorous growth. I'm thinking because of the way they responded to feeding that they are just plain hungry. Gave them water and magne-cal first thing this morning.ph6.2 water was 100ppm and nearly 300ppm after I put •5ml per ltr of the magne-cal in. Then I chose to inspect them more closely and with my glasses on. I'll make a mix of the flora trio and use more grow than the schedule says to address the curling up and yellow issues as in the nitrogen def or slight signs of. They can't be heat stressed as it's rarely above 80° and I have raised the 400w dual spectrum light that is in an air cooled hood up to nearly 24inches above them as I keep wondering if it's a bit strong for 3week old plants.
Really appreciate the advice I've had . Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have all these issues in check.
I can't get any pictures now as the light is off.
 
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