Produce weed in 43 days

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Gonzo'dOut71

Active Member
I bet I can google my name and it will pop up. God damn dude money and the lawyers beat the dea.Ask away man. I'll be here watchin him beat around the bush, you'll end up buying his DVD and I'll laugh, Fdd will laugh and everyone else here that posted against bs will laugh. O well though not my paper so I aint trippin. Although you could have given it to me. Ask away pimpin. Ill save you $200 and you can thank me later.
im not going to buy a dvd. i cant even find where the man offered a dvd for sale. I cant find anywhere in this thread where he offered a "43 Day Weed Guide for Only 29.99" or in your case 200$. Since you are offering your 'free advice' ill go for it. Like I asked him earlier. I have a 1000w and a 600w MH/HPS, an 8ft wide by 10 ft long by 7ft high room for veg and about the same for flower. Im in soil now. Got intake-outflow exhaust ducting, and have but not yet set up a Co2 tank w/ emitter system. I am new as I said before and am a mj med patient. Id like to somehow grow 1 or 2 or 3 big plants with all 1600w so i dont have to grow a bunch of small ones/have to tend to them b/c of the pain im in it makes it very hard for me to be on my feet for more than 30mins at a time. So What would be my best option other than SOGing it or the alike? would using 1600w on a couple plants be worth it in soil and produce at least a gram a watt so that way Id only have to grow a couple times a year and wouldnt ever run out of meds?
 

sagensour

Active Member
Hit a couple diffrent clubs if you can, find some cuts from a friend. Do research on whats good for production and pain. I'd recommend Power Kush for indoor. Pick up some number 10 pots. Fill them up with Roots organics soil or something compairable. Maybe something with rice holes in it. Pick up a R/O water unit and a tri-meter of some sort. Get a water rez of some sort. Get a large hood for your 1000. Pick up some yoyos to make your 600 more mobile. Mount the 1000w long ways/sideways and make it stationary with yoyos. Attach 2 hooks on each side of youre 1000w hood and switch up sides with your 600 very couple weeks. Run a good fert. Maybe eeven a one part. Worry about heavy feeding later. Ph to 6.8 in soil. Run your Co2 line around and above the canopy. Run water lines and timers to water for you. Mix your nutes right before feeding. Water as needed. Hope that helps...
 

Gonzo'dOut71

Active Member
would you think it would be better to do a bunch of plants or just a few and grow them big? thats what i cant decide. I have a couple big yileders/big-growers in mind but idk if i should just plant the right amount of plants that would fit under 1600w or just do like 3 and grow them huge and hopefully get 300-400grams per plant if grown up to 5ft or so and with that amount of light on only 3 or so plants.. ny thoughts?

thanks for the reply-
 

Johnny Retro

Well-Known Member
This guy knows how to grow weed. Thats it, nothing special about him.
Im not a very advanced grower. I grow with CFL's and use soil. Im not into all the bullshit advanced techniques and shit.
Every bit of info this guy is giving is common knowledge to the average grower, he just puts it in educated terms and throws in big words to make it seem like hes saying somthing more than it really is.
All hes doing is simple mathmatics.
 
First if you're hell bent on 3 large plants I would change a few things. First, get out of soil and into hydro. Some like soil but I don't for several reasons, one it limits your rootball and makes correcting problems harder. If problems occur in hydro you can drain and correct water in minutes instead of flushing for days. It also makes measuring nute levels and ph mucheasier to name just a couple. I worked a case as an expert witness where the discovery of a rootball in soil was grounds for a warrant. For you Hydrofarm makes a dripring system that performs great, the bud bowl was grown in that system. New and improved now and affoardable.
1600W won't cover 80 square feet in my books but you won't need that much room anyway, tighten things up a bit. Your hieght will be your biggest issue, say your system, soil or hydro, will be at least 18" and your hood a minimum of 12" so 2 1/12 feet is gone. Now deduct a foot of space from plant to light and your left with a max plant of 3 1/2 feet, so much for big plants.
A gram per watt? 1600 grams devided by 28 equals 57 ounces or 3.5 lbs, not in your wildest dreams. Hell, not in my wildest dreams. I'm all for differant styles of growing and not stuck on SOG but it sounds like your best option my friend, you'd be pushing your hieght limits without vegging. Personally I think SOG is less work. If you plan on a couple grows each year will you be starting from seed and sexing each time or do you have a good clone supplier?

Set your C02 at 1400 high and 800 low shutting it off at dark hours and have a small fan blowing it up. Anything else? Christ don't reinvent the damned wheel. Your grow is a ten minute setup. Couple 6' motorcycle tiedowns for raising light the Sunsystem Magnum XXXL will give you the least depth and still give an 8"vent plus a large foot print. Drip system has a res with float and buckets recirculate. No Brainer my friend. Put clones in hydroton and off you go.

im not going to buy a dvd. i cant even find where the man offered a dvd for sale. I cant find anywhere in this thread where he offered a "43 Day Weed Guide for Only 29.99" or in your case 200$. Since you are offering your 'free advice' ill go for it. Like I asked him earlier. I have a 1000w and a 600w MH/HPS, an 8ft wide by 10 ft long by 7ft high room for veg and about the same for flower. Im in soil now. Got intake-outflow exhaust ducting, and have but not yet set up a Co2 tank w/ emitter system. I am new as I said before and am a mj med patient. Id like to somehow grow 1 or 2 or 3 big plants with all 1600w so i dont have to grow a bunch of small ones/have to tend to them b/c of the pain im in it makes it very hard for me to be on my feet for more than 30mins at a time. So What would be my best option other than SOGing it or the alike? would using 1600w on a couple plants be worth it in soil and produce at least a gram a watt so that way Id only have to grow a couple times a year and wouldnt ever run out of meds?
 
And asking nothing in return, is there a problem with that?
This guy knows how to grow weed. Thats it, nothing special about him.
Im not a very advanced grower. I grow with CFL's and use soil. Im not into all the bullshit advanced techniques and shit.
Every bit of info this guy is giving is common knowledge to the average grower, he just puts it in educated terms and throws in big words to make it seem like hes saying somthing more than it really is.
All hes doing is simple mathmatics.
 
Damn Sage, lighten up dude. Have you seen a for sale sign? If there was and I took a first time grower and taught him how to produce even 4 lbs a grow, eight times a year without wasting a dime on equipment he didn't need and walked him through every single facet of the grow what would that be worth? If he could recover all his expence for equipment and my useless DVD would that be a smart move or would a vet like yourself be a wiser choice? How much junk equipment you have piled up?
And my friend the "VET" that's done nothing but put me down how long exactly have you been growing, not being mean, just wondering always open to learning. Oh yeah, and your name. Love to google you and read all about your help to the cause, or just a link please.
 

skunkushybrid01

Well-Known Member
It also allows for a hardening off period and 36 hours of darkness before being introduced to the flower room.
What do you mean by a hardening off period? Why would you need 36 hours of darkness for mature clones? I've heard people using this method in an attempt to encourage flowering on non mature seed plants... but why bother with a clone that is already mature and ready to flower?

Take your clones from the lowest part of the plant, clones are a copy of your mother and the lower branches are the most mature and therefore will be more stable than higher ones.
i've always found that the tops make the best clones. This is because they contain the most growth hormones. also topping allows you train your mother plant.. I mean if you never took tops she'd just grow right up. What do you mean by stability? are you talking about the likelihood of air getting into the stem and the cutting wilting?


Cloning machines have become quite popular these days but I think they're a waste of money and can be problematic. A short power outage or screw up with a plug can kill an entire batch. KISS is the best policy, rapid rooters under T5 bulbs will perform just as well. Keep your clones in a cool area, they don't like heat and make sure they are always moist. A mild blend of Olivias in your water will be all you need. I have a 98% success rate with clones and don't waste money on fancy shit that doesn't make any diff. Using a root excellerator when placed in the system will help too.
I place my clones in a propagator... and I've always found it better to place my clones onto a heat mat... as this encourages faster rooting. I have no idea what olivias is but i use superthrive as my rooting hormone. I expect 100%. Getting 100% 100% of the time is the problem. Bringing in foreign clones for example that are diseased could lead to a clone wipe out if you put it in with your other clones. When bringing in foreign clones it is always better to have a quarantine period and keep the new cut away from your plants. Plants don't like heat, but the roots do. the roots like it to be nice and warm.

C02 occurs naturally in the air around 350/400 ppm, however, cannabis likes to have 1400ppm. A C02 sniffer is money well spent. Cannabis takes in C02 from the underside of the leaves and C02 is heavier than air, so have a small fan that pushes the C02 up to the plants and seal your room so it doesn't all leak out. The plant only uses it during light periods so don't waste it in the dark. It will also allow your plants to grow in temps 5 to 10 degrees hotter which is helpful to some.
Are you trying to show off your knowledge with all this basic stuff? I mean you will find this stuff repeated time and time again already throughout this site... done much better too. You're also completely wrong on Co2 being absorbed on the underside of the leaves. Co2 is taken in from the underside of the leaves. Well, you heard it here first folks. Co2 is actually taken in through the stomata on the top of the leaf. That's basic shit mate. Look it up.

I maintain room temps at 85degrees and chill my water to 70, this allows me to bring my lights very close, generally 6 inches from the plants. I currently use House and Garden nutes which gives me some benefits. One being the elimination of monitoring my ppms and ec. If you follow directions and drain your system every two weeks you will be perfect and your ec won't have time to build up to dangerous levels. That leaves your Ph which I maintain at 5.9, 5.5 to 6.5 is the range cannabis requires. Outside thoughs numbers your nutes will not be absorbed by the plant.
he he he... I love you professor. You talk the biggest amount of shit i've ever heard in my life. You're so uneducated on how things work i find it incredulous that you've been doing this for 40 years. Just from reading these few paragraphs of yours I can see that you haven't been doing this for 40 years at all... and if you have then you've been sitting in the equivalent of a special school. You tell people to simply follow the directions on the nutrient bottle... do you really believe the people that mix nutrients together are experts? well, yes you probably would. keep it simple stupid... it's a simple mathematical equation, mixing the nutrients. buy them in bulk and mix them together with water and some chelating agents. You also have no idea on how the nutrient uptake process actually works. Plants will take nutrients in the ranges pH 4-8. How it works is that the higher you get towards 8 the harder the plant finds it to uptake micros. The further towards 4 the harder for the macros. They don't stop taking the nutrients altogether, just less of them. This is why somewhere in the middle is preferred, so an equal balance of macros and micros are available. However that probably goes against your keep it simple stupid methodology. a professor keeping things simple is a bit of a misnomer, don't you think? I mean you wear lab coats and everything right?

Plants can be born with powdery mildew. It's a disease and it can be passed down to different generations. Powdery Mildew could manifest itself at any time given the right conditions to produce spores. I have several strains that are immune to PM. They could be sitting next to a plant riddled with it and they wouldn't catch it. the best plants to grow are the ones with immunity in the first place. A plant can have PM and never show the spores. the spores are how the disease spreads and need certain environmental conditions to manifest themselves. Humid conditions usually. it loves veg areas. The spores are easily treated with a sulphur burner if caught early enough.

What are dangerous EC levels?
 

skunkushybrid01

Well-Known Member
I'll pose a question to you, where do you get the vast majority of your yield? I will propose it is from the top third of the plant. My opinion is if so, why grow the bottom two thirds. with 1000W you could light a 3x3 ebb and flo which could host 25 to 30 plants. If you place a slab of Rock Wool on the bottom and place cubes with your clones on top you would have room for root growth. Here's what I would do, Place clones in 4x4 inch rockwool cubes every six inches. Start with small clones and go directly into flower. Sativas will get out of hand and take much longer, a pure Indica will finish in 6 to 7 weeks max. Don't ever water, make the roots chase the water, this will increase your yield. Provide 1400 ppm C02 and use a good nute.
this is actually some good advice. I see you're advising to maintain 1400ppm throughout the entire grow. I see you've figured that out... only i would add to this that the 1400ppm you mean is actually on the x5 scale of EC conversion. all PPM measurements are converted from EC. So 1400ppm is actually somewhere around 2.8ec, and people are actually fine to maintain that level throughout an entire grow. 2.8 ec on the x7 scale of course is around 2000ppm. people use different types of meters, they won't all be using your one. far easier to give a basic EC measurement so people can make their own conversions.

Plants will only take what they need, so it is fine... actually better... to provide them with more than they need, so long as it isn't too much.

I did an experiment very recently... i grew 3 seedlings each from 2 different strains in different starting points of nutrient levels. One seedling from each strain was started in 3.2ec, another from each strain in 2.4ec and the final seedlings went into a 1.4ec start.

All seedlings were placed beneath weak CFL's situated too far away for optimum growth. The siblings from each strain in the 3.2ec concentration grew thicker stems and had a tighter node structure than their siblings in the 2.4ec concentration, and the same was true of the 2.4ec concentration in that the seedlings grew thicker stems and tighter node structures than their siblings in the 1.4ec concentration.

Do you believe that giving a plant more than it needs encourages faster growth? Could you also explain the reasons for your answer.
 

machnak

Well-Known Member
55 pages in 2 hours 42 minutes. Hell yes. I forgot what I was going to ask now. Definitely feel enlightened on a lot of people on this forum.
 

Ludokruis

Member
36 hours or 72 hours are still extended dark periods and quite unnecessary.

I'm always searching for knowledge.

maybe u just haven't been growing for 43 years u don't know how lolz just kidding man 43 years is a long time tho i rate this man knows how to grow merry j
 

skunkushybrid01

Well-Known Member
maybe u just haven't been growing for 43 years u don't know how lolz just kidding man 43 years is a long time tho i rate this man knows how to grow merry j
I've tried extended dark periods and I've not seen anything that convinces me they work. I've done a lot of experiments... growing is a hobby for me, i actually enjoy it.

anyone can say anything on a forum, doesn't make it completely true. I started growing 12 years ago if that's the case. two plants on the windowsill in my living room. I've only being growing properly for 4 years though. It's not how long you've been growing for but what knowledge you gain from it along the way. Encyclopaedic forums like this one provide an accelerated learning opportunity as you not only have your own experiences to go by but also thousands of other experiences too.

I've been around these forums now for 4 years, ever since i popped my first 80 beans. My first grow was under 6 400w lights. A mixture of red and blue so I could experiment, even on my very first grow, on the best light source to use for flower. I made notes and studied from there... ask questions, experiment to find your answers, use google to find reasoning for those answers. if something doesn't make complete sense question it... question everything.
 

smallclosetgrowr

Well-Known Member
i got 1 problem ive only been growing for 2 years but its a common fact i believe i even read a post your wife "clone queen" said a heat matt was beneficial and i thought it was a well know fact your clones needed heat for optimal results for establishing roots.
 

skunkushybrid01

Well-Known Member
So let me answer your questions, What do I meen by "hardening off?" This is simply a period of time where clones are introduced to the intensity of the HID lights. Take a new clone that has been under T5's and put them 6" away from a 1000W HID and chances are you'll have a dead clone. Hardening off is the period where the intensity of light is increased so the clones can adjust to there new environment. Even if your clone survives the direct switching of lights it will be in shock and set you back a week. By placing them under HID's that are raised and then slowly dropped the transition is healthier for the plant. Pretty basic stuff.
what's the point in putting a 1000w HID 6" away from your plants? I keep the lights further away at the beginning to induce some stretch, and i then move the light to the correct distance to evenly cover all of the plants. having a 1000w 6" away is pretty pointless as you wouldn't be getting the full coverage of the light. a 1000w light is good for a 6x6 area, lowering a 1000w to just 6" would make it only good for a 3ft x 3ft area.

HID lighting, all lighting causes some shock to plants... they quickly get over it however. Doesn't take a week. The only time i've seen light have a drastic effect on growth was when using a 300w UV light as a sole light source. Two little seedlings, they hesitated for 3 days before producing the tri-leaves then grew perfectly normally. Cannabis photsynthesises perfectly well under pure UV lighting. Usually any shock from the HID light is offset by the benefits of photosynthesis. any time you change a plant's environment it will go through a period of shock. whether you leave the plants to harden off for a few days or not, it's still a few days.

Cannabis in nature is gradualy brought to the fall equinox 12/12 which triggers flowering. It has been my experience that plants grown indoor switch to the flowering phase quicker when put into an extended dark period, a kick in the ass if you will. There is no doubt to the plant it's time to reproduce.
Well the time cannabis flowers relates to the environment, or where on Earth is originated from. There are strains that will flower with just 9 hours dark. What that means is that that is all the dark time the plant needs to flower. Giving it any more doesn't make the plant behave any differently, aside from having to conserve energy as none is being provided by photosynthesis. so long as the plant gets 9 hours or whatever it is that triggers flowering in that particular strain then the hormone will be triggered. There is a trigger, no point going further than the trigger needs. I especially don't see the point with mature clones.

It is a common mistake for people to take the top of the plant for clones. The lowest part of the plant is the oldest and therefore the most mature. The clone is therefore that much more matuire when taken from the bottom, as much as six months in some cases which makes for a stonger more stable clone. As an added benefit it is also the part of the plant that will produce the least amount of bud if the mother is later flowered.
Genes age... do they not? Are you suggesting for one second that the parts lower down the plant are actually older, genetically than the parts from the top of the plant? they are the same age, the lower parts have simply been there longer. Like us when we grow, our feet never stop growing, so are our feet actually younger than the rest of our body? You can clone from every single plant cell, each cell is capable of reproducing an entire plant, so really where you take the cuts from isn't so important. However, the growth hormones, particularly auxins that provide apical dominance and are also responsible for rooting are largely situated in the tops of the plants. So they usually result in stronger sturdier cuts altogether, and they root faster.

Wrong on the C02, it was thought it was absorbed from the top but has since been found to be false, I will find the scientific data and post it.
This, i just have to see. I know you're completely wrong on this one. You also have no idea on plant biology at all do you?

I get so tired of dipshits like you who have dick for experience but suddenly become experts when someone more knowledgeable shows up. Open your ears and shut your mouth long enough to retain what I'm saying here. I said that I am currently using House and Garden for my nutes, one of the benefits to their system is that it is based on the size of your water holdings in your system. By following their recomendations based on your system your ppm and ec becomes a non-issue if you're not a lazy ass and drain on a regular basis as a good grower does, I'm sure you don't drain and therefore ec would be the reason you burn the crap out of your plants. If you use the GH that is given away thus not requiring you to squeeze a penny from your tight sphincter. Grow like a pro and you won't have that problem.
You're the one that burns your plants. I can tell from the pic you posted. They look fried to me. PPM and EC are the same thing. You don't need to drain... you clearly have no idea on plant biology, it's so obvious. A professor of pot without an inkling on basic plant biology. my my. What is the average salinty tolerance of cannabis professor? You can only burn your plants by breaking it, so what is it? stumped aren't you... you're stumped because you probably don't even know where to begin to find the answer. To know that you'd need a good understanding of plant biology, and you lack in this area, it's very clear.

Wrong again on ph, look anywhere and you'll see 5.5 to 6.5 are the ranges for ph in hydro systems, christ I can bet you are in your third year at best. Go tell these new growers that "Oh somewhere between 4 and 8 will do" what an idiot. Folks try maintaining 5.8 for best results, if your ph is going to change it will be rising so better to be a hair low, if it does rise check for growth in your water.
Look anywhere? why should I do that when you're here? I look to myself first, oh and of course BASIC plant biology. ALL plants, notice the ALL, take nutrients in the pH ranges 4-8, that is the availability margin. learning yet? good avice on the pathogens raising alkalinity by the way, they do prefer a pH of 7, and will actively change it. the biggest cause to pH instability of course is people not mixing the nutrients properly, not allowing tap water to stand, that type of thing.

Are you saying that a single plant with mildew will not spread to others? You're insane. Sulfer to kill what is on leaves, cover with a trash bag and kill it. Mildew will spread like wildfire if proper venting is done. Where did you learn this crap, you're going to spread a ton of bad info to new growers, a dangerous person to the new. Yes it is systemic which has nothing to do with it's ability to spread, are you for real?
I'm telling you for a cold hard fact that certain strains of cannabis are immune to PM. The spores are merely how the disease moves from plant to plant. A plant won't show spores unless the disease is actually inside it. It's perfectly possible to have an immune strain sit right next to a strain with PM. You know nothing, it's very clear. You know how to grow one way and enhance your results with bullshit. You clearly need some education on basic plant biology.

Ec should be between 1.5 and 1.8, just as bad being to low as it is being to high. Why don't you share why that is Skunk.
Can't answer it yourself? it's obvious anyway, but i will add... In a recirculating system you can get away with far less.... reason is because available nutrients are constantly being washed over the roots. In a system like soil or coco where the nutrients may not be hitting the root surface a stronger concentration is needed. Also in mediums like coco and soil the medium is only fed once per week (usually) so you need to feed much more to guarantee the plant finds available nutrients throughout the period till the next feed. Different strokes for different folks. I could go on, but then i'd be teaching you, and it's unfair as you haven't asked a serious question yet. Unlike me to you... and you divert from it with more of your I know everything bullshit.

And a heat mat for cloning, God you make my brain hurt from the amount of shit you're doing wrong. Please keep them cool, cement floors are best. Try em side by side one time skunk, it's call experimenting, been doing it for forty years and you are about as misinformed as anyone I know of.
There you go again, just thinking of yourself... I'm in England, UK... here it gets cold. Roots and plants do not like the cold... they stop growing in shock. I've had clones sit for a month in the cold and not root. a little heating mat underneath and they root in a week. what's that about then? i already know the real answer by the way. Roots like a temp of around 67-70f. once we start getting down in the 50's, plants go into a type of stasis.

Feel free folks to write Skunk for advice
strangely, people actually do... I've been helping people learn to grow weed for a few years now. Of course educating myself immensely along the way too.
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
THIS---couldnt have put it better myself. Its crazy the size egos some of these "vets" as one poster put have and how easy it is for them to go crazy and ragg on everyone that doesnt run to them and ask them their ? and decide to ask somebody new (the proffessor) and then all hell breaks loose... friggin childish

Hey Gonzo, why dont you add something productive to this thread instead of constant bitching? We were all backed off on the professor when you jumped in with both feet spraying mud everywhere. Now he is back to serious personal attacks and you cant shut up...

Professor I am seriously disappointed. You appear to have either a drug addiction or some mental problem. I dont know what else would cause such huge mood swings and personality changes over a short period of time.

You apologize then you bash someone again. Maybe we could get your wife back on to see if you are an abusive drunk who apologizes later eh?

Your attacks of people who have a good basis of grow knowledge is to lord your experience over them. It shows a huge sense of vulnerability. Your statements are contradictory ER: you have only one goal in life and that is to provide knowledge and yet at least twice in this thread you have said you wont give it all away for free. You state that you are leaving multiple times only to return as if you never left.

You state that you do not exaggerate in the same thread as you state quite clearly that you have THOUSANDS of grows under your belt. Something that is mathematically impossible.

Unfortunately, any real knowledge or experience you may impart is so tangled up in all the other stuff you create as to be lost in the noise.

There are dozens of dedicated growers here willing to share their experiences for free, in detail without bullshit and I certainly would rather learn from them then deal with your pompous ass.
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
its nice to finally see someone talking sense. all these others just here to bag on the proffesor and the people who support the proffessor. why don't you all go back to your own threads where you can stroke each others egos. you would think you would be tired of bagging on this guy already. bunch of fucking jealous loosers. kindof like potroast. I hate that fuck. cant wait till he finally bans me from this now retarded site. was a good site till this thread happened. later fucks you just look stupid bagging on the proffessor.
So, you cant leave this "retarded site" without being banned? Got self control problems?
 
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