Quick ? about wiring a 220 only volt ballast

In the US there is a 110 v hot (black) wire a common (white) and a third wire (green) or ground or earth wire. The US 220 line has two wires carrying 110 v one black one red one white one green. SO this 220 v only ballast I am assuming I simply wire the red and black to the screw for the hot side of the outlet wire the white white wire to regular common side and ground to same old place the green wire to the green screw. I only received a 110 power cord with the instructions to simply wire it as a 220 as that's what most people want. This is the only logical way I can figure, but I could be wrong. I'm not in the EU or the UK. So the common current in Europe is the hot is 220v (black ) the other is common ( White) and the Green is earth right?

Dam I don't even understand my self

Is this wrong, because some say hot to both common and hot, drop the white and just connect the ground.

Are you in the US or somewhere that only has 220v? That receptical in the US is a 120v 20 amp. The breaker you show is a double 220v that red and black wire connects to and white wire goes on the neutral bus in breaker box. This is all US though.

You need both hot legs for get 240 vac in north america. In europe you just need the hot and the neutral. It's different because north america uses split phase (two phases 180 degrees apart) and europe just the one phase at 240 (higher amplitude/voltage)

To wire 240 volt in north america you need a two pole breaker and the neutral or white is marked with black or red tape on both ends to denote it's now a hot and it's connected to the second pole on the breaker instead of the neutral bus.

booms111 said:

Are you in the US or somewhere that only has 220v? That receptical in the US is a 120v 20 amp. The breaker you show is a double 220v that red and black wire connects to and white wire goes on the neutral bus in breaker box. This is all US though.

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Yep I'm in the USA, that was taken out of my panel box. It was wired directly to an electric heater.
Thanks

Renfro said:

You need both hot legs for get 240 vac in north america. In europe you just need the hot and the neutral. It's different because north america uses split phase (two phases 180 degrees apart) and europe just the one phase at 240 (higher amplitude/voltage)

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Did you see that power cord plug I was sent it's the common US 110v cord and plug, are you saying use both hot wires, one on ordinarily hot side and another (red)one on the white common side.

I see what you all are saying,

I think this is what I need to do, as long as I don't exceed 80% of 20 amps I can plug in two lights,

Thats what I was tryna explain. Looks like you know what to do now.

Yeah! This ballast runs at >1.7 amps, at only 80 % load of a 20 amp 220v line that's 16 available amps that's 8 lamps, that's fantabulous, very smart, I went from rags to riches real quick THANK YOU!. Will this save on the electricit? Is there a timer for this type of set up?

Midiver said:

This ballast runs at >1.7 amps

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Should be < 1.7 according to the name plate it's 1.62

The simple solution is a mechanical hot water heater timer. If you get one that is setup for 240 volts then it will be easy peasy. Otherwise you need the neutral for the timer motor. Really though, the best option is a lighting controller, run the 240 volt power into that and then plug the trigger cord into the timer. Titan Helios is the best IMO.

That model is what I would recommend.

If you wanna wire in a mechanical timer and then feed a bunch of receptacles off that then an Intermatic T-104 would work, thats the model that won't require a neutral for the motor.

You could feed the Intermatic or the Titan with your 20 amp circuit, it doesn't have to be a 40 or 50 amp

Midiver said:

View attachment 4552148

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That’s a120 plug you cannot wire that like that. You need a 240 plug. The 120 plug has a gold and a silver screw hot goes to gold white(neutral) goes to silver. To get 240 you need an actual 240 plug. That’s different

420drummer said:

That’s a120 plug you cannot wire that like that. You need a 240 plug. The 120 plug has a gold and a silver screw hot goes to gold white(neutral) goes to silver. To get 240 you need an actual 240 plug. That’s different

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Bullshit. It may not be technically correct by code but the receptacle will work just fine at 240. The color of the screws doesn't make a difference. The ONLY downside is that one could accidentally plug a 120v appliance in that receptacle, that is the ONLY problem with doing this.