Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
Yeah supposed to be landrace. One plant looks like it the other one looks like its modern. The male is a monster prolly the keeper. I collected pollen. Last pic is the male.
The Male I hadda cut in half to fit in a 4x4 tent @80" tall so he could have easily been 14 feet outdoors. No stakes required either.


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bobrown14

Well-Known Member
I'm growing in Coots No-till been using that soil for 6 years now. Getting a little tired maybe cant say never grew this strain before.
 

SouthernSoil*

Well-Known Member
Yeah supposed to be landrace. One plant looks like it the other one looks like its modern. The male is a monster prolly the keeper. I collected pollen. Last pic is the male.
The Male I hadda cut in half to fit in a 4x4 tent @80" tall so he could have easily been 14 feet outdoors. No stakes required either.


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2nd last pic looks way more like a landrace, the 1st two pics seems like a hybrid of a landrace ? the male i cant really tell but 420 centimetres / 4.2 metres thats a big boy !
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
I've grown landrace before and the same thing with loosing leaves and yellowing. I did a kelp and EWC tea bubbled over night and watered in a few days in a row the yellowing on the landrace looking plant is better she's greening up some more. But not fattening up...grrrrr. Prolly gonna be finished another 60 days IF I can keep the leaves on her.

As soon as I gave them some fish emulsion a few weeks ago, I got the leaf tip curl. I've gotten that before on Durban I ran. I like to see my girls loose the green coming down the stretch.

Makes the freshies smooth tasting and not harsh or cough.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
Hmmm.... kinda smelly you say? Anaerobic possibly? You have good drainage?
( how do I get to your journal?)
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
Everything I learned was right here in this thread plus a few members who really helped me along my way. @greasemonkeymann where ya at !??

also podcast like cannabis cultivation and science podcast. Or shaping fire.
As far as soil building here my best advice. Take it or leave it. Lol.

when baking a cake the base is the same typically. Doesn’t matter if it’s double chocolate, peanut butter or a gummy bear cake( it’s my son’s birthday and the last cake is his request this year).
Start with similar amounts of eggs, flour, oil et.

then we flavor according to what type of cake we want.

soil is the same way. Base is the vital portion. And strong base is what provides microbes with a healthy happy home.

1/3 conpost( or better castings, homemade ifpossible.)
1/3 peat
1/3 aeration (pumice or chunkiest perlite you can find).
I’ve tried 20plus different soil recipes , but the base remains consistent.
2-4 cups nutrients. You can play with this. 3 main sources. Or 10 at 1/4 each. You choose and track your npk inputs.
4 cups minerals. Don’t skimp- butt you don’t need to add any more minerals during recycling. Just extra nutrients based on what kind of fade , or lack of fade occurred with last harvest.

the rest comes with time. The fine details and teas, enzymes, fungal food ,recycling. All the other fun stuff.
just keep it simple to start. Spend 10x more time looking at soil than plants. Actively learning how to properly maintain soil moisture levels is a huge deal. Notice I didn’t say watering. I don’t water plants. I maintain moisture levels which are beneficials to soil life and health.

do have a mineral plan in place as well as your amendments?
What’s ur take on running separate pots for veg and flower, each amended towards different npk? I’ve come up with recipes for both that run close to 3-1-2 for veg and 1-3-2 for flower but honestly I’d rather just one one mix...
What npks is everyone shooting for with a single full cycle mix?
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
What’s ur take on running separate pots for veg and flower, each amended towards different npk? I’ve come up with recipes for both that run close to 3-1-2 for veg and 1-3-2 for flower but honestly I’d rather just one one mix...
What npks is everyone shooting for with a single full cycle mix?
Tbh I think the plant and microbes work together to pull npk from soil as needed specifically for each stage of growth.

so here’s how I do it. Just recycled non re-amended soil for veg. Add some ewc and perlite if consistency needs alittle help.

and even then. I often transplant directly into large containers from crooked clones. Green perfect growth whole cycle. And that’s in super dank soil. Plant exudates attract specific bacteria that fixate n p or k respectively to which stage the plant is in.

happy growing!
 

JMcG

Well-Known Member
Reusing soil makes it better and better over time. Up to 60% of my mixes are used mix that has set idle for 2 or 3 months.
Agreed!
Recycling soils is the primary reason I became interested in living soils in the first place. I’ve probably made over 500 cf of coots style soil over the years for all of the big beds and large pots I run. It gets used for a year or two in the big beds ( less in the pots) then piled up outside over a winter or at least a wet spring and let nature take its course.
I just replaced some 3 year old soil that was in 225 g beds and had seen over 10 cycles. I basically got out pure EWC.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Agreed!
Recycling soils is the primary reason I became interested in living soils in the first place. I’ve probably made over 500 cf of coots style soil over the years for all of the big beds and large pots I run. It gets used for a year or two in the big beds ( less in the pots) then piled up outside over a winter or at least a wet spring and let nature take its course.
I just replaced some 3 year old soil that was in 225 g beds and had seen over 10 cycles. I basically got out pure EWC.
My excess goes to my containers outside for ornamentals after time in outdoor compost pile. So much fun also.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
Definitely, I do understand the process of the plant ‘asking’ for what it needs, and that microbes and enzymes make what is needed available to the plant during the cycle. But I guess what I’m getting at is when doing the initial mix, does it make the most sense to just shoot for an even balance of npk and then top dressing to tailor to the current growth phase?
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Definitely, I do understand the process of the plant ‘asking’ for what it needs, and that microbes and enzymes make what is needed available to the plant during the cycle. But I guess what I’m getting at is when doing the initial mix, does it make the most sense to just shoot for an even balance of npk and then top dressing to tailor to the current growth phase?
Yes that would be my approach for sure. And really the top dress plan depends on previous harvest to judge what you want in there. I have zero fade, then maybe I wait another round. I have some fade then try to judge what inputs would correct next round. Top dressing weeks ahead of time is key. Once plant is hungry it’s too late.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
Yes that would be my approach for sure. And really the top dress plan depends on previous harvest to judge what you want in there. I have zero fade, then maybe I wait another round. I have some fade then try to judge what inputs would correct next round. Top dressing weeks ahead of time is key. Once plant is hungry it’s too late.
That does make sense - I have a shit ton of different Gaia dry amendments, their all purpose is 4-4-4, so I could start with that and then add others (also have frass, alfalfa, kelp, guano, fish bone, plus my rock dusts) and try to add so it keeps the general even spread. I also have the Gaia bloom mix, maybe leave that out of the mix and use as a top dress in flower?
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
I run Coots in no-till. All I do is amend at up-can a handful of Kelp meal/ewc/crustacean meal and a little compost with malted barley into the hole (maybe a cup total). I usually up-can then right into flower. The Kelp Meal and compost have everything the plants need in proper ratio.

Its not feeding the plant its feeding the microbes. The NPK talk is more what the folks do that use fertilizer. I've been an organic farmer for many many years and never worried about NPK. I know what it is and how it works. But I dont worry about it. If my plants look like they need something I make a kelp/EWC slurry and water in. Wait 3 days and repeat if needed.

Been running my soil 4-5 flowering rounds annually for 6 years ... so plus 30 rounds in flower.

Compost is key. I amend my compost and have several bins. Let them sit idol for as long as I can.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
I run Coots in no-till. All I do is amend at up-can a handful of Kelp meal/ewc/crustacean meal and a little compost with malted barley into the hole (maybe a cup total). I usually up-can then right into flower. The Kelp Meal and compost have everything the plants need in proper ratio.

Its not feeding the plant its feeding the microbes. The NPK talk is more what the folks do that use fertilizer. I've been an organic farmer for many many years and never worried about NPK. I know what it is and how it works. But I dont worry about it. If my plants look like they need something I make a kelp/EWC slurry and water in. Wait 3 days and repeat if needed.

Been running my soil 4-5 flowering rounds annually for 6 years ... so plus 30 rounds in flower.

Compost is key. I amend my compost and have several bins. Let them sit idol for as long as I can.
You know it’s funny, I really took the time to read up about what I’m getting into, have read the standard issue books by Lowenfels etc, have read this thread through and the living soil IC thread (currently page 456 lol) - have gained a truly good understanding of the soil food web, but in the final hour before mixing in my amendments I go right back to sketching about npk... :dunce:
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
I forgot to mention I get annual soil tests.

So I have a good idea how the soil is performing.

Over the years I basically only had to make pH changes to my water for container gardening. I was using city water and had to filter out the gunk and now on a well with high alkalinity so have to filter out the cal/mag. In the outdoor gardens its fine in containers not so much.

Cant really say I did anything after getting soil test results. Just amend with a little bit of kelp meal and compost/ewc. The quality of the compost/ewc is crucial. I will spend time collecting wild caught leaf mold from the forest its good stuff. We use that and mulch outdoors and toss some in the vermi-bins.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
I forgot to mention I get annual soil tests.

So I have a good idea how the soil is performing.

Over the years I basically only had to make pH changes to my water for container gardening. I was using city water and had to filter out the gunk and now on a well with high alkalinity so have to filter out the cal/mag. In the outdoor gardens its fine in containers not so much.

Cant really say I did anything after getting soil test results. Just amend with a little bit of kelp meal and compost/ewc. The quality of the compost/ewc is crucial. I will spend time collecting wild caught leaf mold from the forest its good stuff. We use that and mulch outdoors and toss some in the vermi-bins.
I have a thriving forest in my backyard, have collected a tub of leaf mould, underneath it was just a thick layer of castings, it was kinda wild to find actually, the layers were defined enough that I was able to separate the castings from the humus. I added about 3 gal of the humus into 6 cu ft of base soil, will probably toss in a gallon or two of the bush castings. I let it sit in a bin for a while to see what ended up crawling around, saw rove beetles popping up which was cool. I think it should make a great addition to the soil, the texture is like a blend of peat, compost and leaf mould.
 

unfiltered

Well-Known Member
Compost is key. I amend my compost and have several bins. Let them sit idol for as long as I can.
Hi, I'm on my first cycle of no till with Coot's mix also. This grow method is so awesome as it's way less work; and the plants are growing and flowering at a rate I've never seen before. Every plant is frosty with fat buds. I also use blumat with blusoak so that also contributes to the crazy fast grow.

Anyway, when you said you amend the compost do you actually mean that you put meals (i.e. kelp, crab, etc) in your compost first and let the microbes process them before you put the amended compost in your no till pots/raised beds? Comes to think of it, this is almost like vermacomposting where we let the worms process the amendments, food scraps, etc and harvest the worm casting.
 

thisbuds4u101

Well-Known Member
Are you familiar with Holly Michigan? I understand Green Rush Farms is a reliable source for clones. Do you know anything about them looking for a good legit clone source.
 
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