Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Whats your favorite way to finish a harvest off when you can see the trichomes milk up, are you just watering her out until chop day? Was thinking about light doses of kelp and barley and have about a week to harvest maybe a little less. Its soil that is being reused on its 2nd run with an addition of dry amendments, SST, EWC, kelp, unsulphured molasses, coconut, aloe, and some microbes like recharge and og biowar every other week. The terpenes are amazing like orange zest fruit punch with a lemony squeeze and a touch of gas.
 

ClaytonNewbilFontaine

Well-Known Member
Botanicals :
This was a post I found on icmag to share. All credit goes to the original author who wrote this post.
Source https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254210 http://www.frenchgardening.com/tech.html?pid=3164873867231346

The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.

The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.

The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.

It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.

Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!

Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.

Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.



Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.

Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.

Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.

Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.

Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatoes against mildew.

Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.

Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.

Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.


English Ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.

Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.
This was extremely helpful. I just picked up some comfrey root cutting and they've sprouted in the pots I have them in. Going to wait until spring to get them in the ground. Also going to hunt some stinging nettles and horse tail too. Just started getting into organics, thanks for posting this.
 

2cent

Well-Known Member
Is it worth trying to fix soil after til 5 feels a bit fucked ,
Or better make new ? They say they get better after time but I fee til 3 is good 4 and 5 go bad
Soil test says it’s all outa whack
So why don’t I just add worm poo and pre buffered peat and have at it ?
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
This was extremely helpful. I just picked up some comfrey root cutting and they've sprouted in the pots I have them in. Going to wait until spring to get them in the ground. Also going to hunt some stinging nettles and horse tail too. Just started getting into organics, thanks for posting this.
Comfrey has really deep roots and they get pretty large - ours about 4' in diameter and 3 feet tall. Best place to plant them is close to your compost bin so you dont have far to go with the cuttings. Also choose wisely on location because you can take more rootings but you wont get rid of the plants once you plant them in the ground they there to stay.

We get about 5-6 harvests a year in zone 5, we wait till the bees are done them chop to crown and repeat.

Best ever right there can lay leaves on the soil and they are gone in 3-4 days they just melt into the soil.

Oh and its a very good medicinal plant for you much like cannabis is. Oldtime name of this plant is called knitbone just dont eat it. topical use for joint pain oil salve or tincture.
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
Comfrey has really deep roots and they get pretty large - ours about 4' in diameter and 3 feet tall. Best place to plant them is close to your compost bin so you dont have far to go with the cuttings. Also choose wisely on location because you can take more rootings but you wont get rid of the plants once you plant them in the ground they there to stay.

We get about 5-6 harvests a year in zone 5, we wait till the bees are done them chop to crown and repeat.

Best ever right there can lay leaves on the soil and they are gone in 3-4 days they just melt into the soil.

Oh and its a very good medicinal plant for you much like cannabis is. Oldtime name of this plant is called knitbone just dont eat it. topical use for joint pain oil salve or tincture.
Its a good plant ,(for plants and people), just if you consume this plant in anyway be sure not to over indulge,, its high in protines and has shown to cause liver and kiddney problems if over done..(vegans)
 

ClaytonNewbilFontaine

Well-Known Member
Comfrey has really deep roots and they get pretty large - ours about 4' in diameter and 3 feet tall. Best place to plant them is close to your compost bin so you dont have far to go with the cuttings. Also choose wisely on location because you can take more rootings but you wont get rid of the plants once you plant them in the ground they there to stay.

We get about 5-6 harvests a year in zone 5, we wait till the bees are done them chop to crown and repeat.

Best ever right there can lay leaves on the soil and they are gone in 3-4 days they just melt into the soil.

Oh and its a very good medicinal plant for you much like cannabis is. Oldtime name of this plant is called knitbone just dont eat it. topical use for joint pain oil salve or tincture.
Very helpful bro thanks
 

ClaytonNewbilFontaine

Well-Known Member
Just picked up everything I need to make my first no till pots. Here's my mix


BASE:
1/3 Peat
1/3 Pearlite
1/3 compost/EWC

AMENDMENTS:

1/2 cup per cu.ft

Kelp meal
Fishbone/Crab meal mixture

And a mixture of glacial rock dust, gypsum pellets, and oyster shell flour @ 4 cups per cu.ft.

I wanted to add some neem or karanja cake to the mix but apparently in Canada neem is strictly regulated and I can't find anywhere.

I also picked up some mycorrrhizae to inoculate my roots with when I transplant into the no till pots.

Can I just add a handful of worms to the pots when they get filled, and what worms should I be getting? There's a worm farm just down the road from me and they have a few different types.

If there's anything else that I should be adding in please let me know!
I know that was years ago but how'd this work out? This is exactly what I was going to do. I read about 10 pages further but didn't see an update from you, so I figured I'd ask.
 
Awesome thread, I have a few questions. I’m about to make my first LOS no till batch. Can anyone drop some info on how much or what ratio of amendments list etc for 3. 3.8 bales of sphagnum peat? Thanks.
 

Geert

Active Member
Hello,

I would like to start building my own organic potting mix.

Adding fertilizer i would like to add seebird guano because i can buy it for a good price.
One thing i couldnt find is good source of pottasium, the guano wich i can get really laks pottasium.

Some sources like ashes are just taken up to rapid, and have a big influence on ph.
Aso i cant buy greensand here.
 

Medskunk

Well-Known Member
Banana peel for pottasium bud! Put it in the oven and burn the sh*t out of it :fire: then crumble and scatter it around the pot. Im not sure with the frequency.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I would like to start building my own organic potting mix.

Adding fertilizer i would like to add seebird guano because i can buy it for a good price.
One thing i couldnt find is good source of pottasium, the guano wich i can get really laks pottasium.

Some sources like ashes are just taken up to rapid, and have a big influence on ph.
Aso i cant buy greensand here.
Langbeinite.
 

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
Never heard of that stuff, unfortunately
It doesnt ship to the Netherlands.
Do you know more alternatives?
Or is guano shit not for me?
Potassium sulfate (K2SO4) can be used in organic gardening as long as it's mined from a natural source and minimally processed. Seems like many of the dry fertilizer blends use it (at least in the US). Not sure what the application rate would be when building a potting mix though...
 

Geert

Active Member
Potassium sulfate (K2SO4) can be used in organic gardening as long as it's mined from a natural source and minimally processed. Seems like many of the dry fertilizer blends use it (at least in the US). Not sure what the application rate would be when building a potting mix though...

Thanks, this would mean it wouldnt kill my beneficial bacteria like normal fertilizer can do?
 
Top