Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
- Start date
GreenSanta
Well-Known Member
top dress with ''supersoil'' , your soil recipe, whatever it might be, mixed with vermicompost, throw a handful of worms too, then ride her out not matter what.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Hi
Im seeking advice on this organic premixed fertilizer:
http://migardener.com/store/3lb-trifecta/
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM8SmWw3ugc
Story goes:
I live in spain and most products for building soil is unavailable to me, need to bring it over from the states. Sure, compost guano dolomite and that kinda stuff is around, along with soil mixes (not fox farm) but without crabmeal, fishmeal and few more of those its a bit limited.
This guy put together a fertilizer mix which looks allright, its npk 5-10-4 in directly accessible nutrients, 10-13-12 counting slow release. Half a cup per (tomato) plant when planting, can topfeed later in the season. Can anyone give me advice on building a soil with this? Soil mix, some compost, trifecta, maybe some composted nessles and bokashi ? Id rather follow a recepie but getting everything separately is so expensive with international delivery, getting just one bag with everything makes more sense to me. And i could use it on my normal garden. Any coments or advice welcome
Im seeking advice on this organic premixed fertilizer:
http://migardener.com/store/3lb-trifecta/
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM8SmWw3ugc
Story goes:
I live in spain and most products for building soil is unavailable to me, need to bring it over from the states. Sure, compost guano dolomite and that kinda stuff is around, along with soil mixes (not fox farm) but without crabmeal, fishmeal and few more of those its a bit limited.
This guy put together a fertilizer mix which looks allright, its npk 5-10-4 in directly accessible nutrients, 10-13-12 counting slow release. Half a cup per (tomato) plant when planting, can topfeed later in the season. Can anyone give me advice on building a soil with this? Soil mix, some compost, trifecta, maybe some composted nessles and bokashi ? Id rather follow a recepie but getting everything separately is so expensive with international delivery, getting just one bag with everything makes more sense to me. And i could use it on my normal garden. Any coments or advice welcome
GreenSanta
Well-Known Member
Just a bit of an update on pests control via beneficial insects.
I was doing persimillis + californicus for spider mites control, it turns out californicus are so voracious they actually eat the persimillis and mess them all up. So I am going back to using fallacis + persimillis.
If you are using beneficial insects, I recommend misting or wetting the bottom half or third of your plants, daily, I do it just after the lights come on. Since most beneficial insects need higher RH than your cannabis plants (I like to stay below 50% to stay clear of bud rot and powdery mildew, most beneficial insects prefer 60+%) This will help increase humidity at least once a day, you beneficial insects should survive longer, that's my theory and Ive been doing this for a while now. I try not to get the water up too high on the plants because I don't want the intense lighting to fry them buds, fan leaves. Even when the plants don't need water I just make sure to hose that bottom third, daily, for a few days to a week after application. Seems to help them survive longer.
Another thing I learned recently for thrips control is, instead of spending more money on the slow release cucumeris ''tea bags'', you want to buy the bulk tube (I buy 50000 adults at the time) scoop the bran under a mulch in your pots where the bran will stay moist and the bran will become
ISCLAIMER dont quote me on this coze I am still not too sure what I am talking about, but the bran becomes a host for a specie of mites ( the tyrophagus, wiki it) that likes to feed on mold, I think the cucumeris feed on the tyrophagus and stay alive up to 6 weeks if you can keep that bran moist.
feel free to correct or improve any of this, but I m going back to persimillis + fallacis every 2 weeks and cucumeris bulk tube once a month, maybe once every 6 weeks if I stop seeing them.
I was doing persimillis + californicus for spider mites control, it turns out californicus are so voracious they actually eat the persimillis and mess them all up. So I am going back to using fallacis + persimillis.
If you are using beneficial insects, I recommend misting or wetting the bottom half or third of your plants, daily, I do it just after the lights come on. Since most beneficial insects need higher RH than your cannabis plants (I like to stay below 50% to stay clear of bud rot and powdery mildew, most beneficial insects prefer 60+%) This will help increase humidity at least once a day, you beneficial insects should survive longer, that's my theory and Ive been doing this for a while now. I try not to get the water up too high on the plants because I don't want the intense lighting to fry them buds, fan leaves. Even when the plants don't need water I just make sure to hose that bottom third, daily, for a few days to a week after application. Seems to help them survive longer.
Another thing I learned recently for thrips control is, instead of spending more money on the slow release cucumeris ''tea bags'', you want to buy the bulk tube (I buy 50000 adults at the time) scoop the bran under a mulch in your pots where the bran will stay moist and the bran will become
ISCLAIMER dont quote me on this coze I am still not too sure what I am talking about, but the bran becomes a host for a specie of mites ( the tyrophagus, wiki it) that likes to feed on mold, I think the cucumeris feed on the tyrophagus and stay alive up to 6 weeks if you can keep that bran moist.feel free to correct or improve any of this, but I m going back to persimillis + fallacis every 2 weeks and cucumeris bulk tube once a month, maybe once every 6 weeks if I stop seeing them.
digitalqueso
Member
Hey all, first post here. Been reading this thread, phew is there a lot of good stuff here. But WOW 384 pages, I am only on page 40! I still have a lot to catch up on. But I decided to jump to the end and ask a quick question before I get to far ahead of myself.
I recently bought a yard of Empire Builder mix by sanctuary soils out here in CA. Heres a link to see their page if anyone's interested. http://sanctuarysoil.com/empire-builder/
The ingredients are as follows:
coco coir, sphagnum peat moss, composted forest product, worm castings, coco chips, lava rock, pumice, perlite, gypsum, langbeinite, sea bird and bat guano, fish bonemeal, feather meal, bonemeal, limestone, greensand, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, glacial rock dust, azomite, soybean meal, and rice bran.
Unfortunately after I bought it all kinds off shit hit the fan and I had to deal with losing a garden to fire ants. (Lost like 50 plants, still swallowing that pill). Anyway, while I was dealing with the ant issue I never made it around to using the Empire soil, and it dried up in the 110 degree central california heat. So fastforward 3 months. I have read the revs book, overcomplicated the shit out of organics, and then started reading some stuff from buildasoil.com specifically this article here http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/9885098-why-tlo-dissecting-the-rev-mix-line-by-line. At the same time my buddy was turning me on to composted soil. And it got me rethinking my whole deal. So I was like, Eureka! I have this soil that is very heavily ammended thats just dry might as well bring it indoors, add some stuff and a month later use it for my notill indoor.
So to a half yard of soil I added:
15 cups of alfalfa meal
15 cups of oyster shell
15 cups of Down To Earth all purpose mix
About 5 cups of Rock Phosphate
About 10 cups of wiggle worm worm castings
5 gallons of perlite.
My plan was to wait a month, fill some 15 gals and plant down. Then I found this nice thread. And I realize now that I may have severely overdone it. I think I have tried to make a no till mix from super soil and from what I gather thats asking for trouble? Should I just scrap it all for outdoors and start fresh or give it a shot?
My plan so far from what I have read of this tread (up to page 40 - but who knows whats changed or improved in the 340+ pages after) is that I am going to get aloe powder, coconut water powder, TM-7, diastatic malt powder, some clover cover crop seed, and agsil. And follow the suggested ratios and usages as I have seen here.
Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks so much for all the info and time and love everyone!!
I recently bought a yard of Empire Builder mix by sanctuary soils out here in CA. Heres a link to see their page if anyone's interested. http://sanctuarysoil.com/empire-builder/
The ingredients are as follows:
coco coir, sphagnum peat moss, composted forest product, worm castings, coco chips, lava rock, pumice, perlite, gypsum, langbeinite, sea bird and bat guano, fish bonemeal, feather meal, bonemeal, limestone, greensand, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, glacial rock dust, azomite, soybean meal, and rice bran.
Unfortunately after I bought it all kinds off shit hit the fan and I had to deal with losing a garden to fire ants. (Lost like 50 plants, still swallowing that pill). Anyway, while I was dealing with the ant issue I never made it around to using the Empire soil, and it dried up in the 110 degree central california heat. So fastforward 3 months. I have read the revs book, overcomplicated the shit out of organics, and then started reading some stuff from buildasoil.com specifically this article here http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/9885098-why-tlo-dissecting-the-rev-mix-line-by-line. At the same time my buddy was turning me on to composted soil. And it got me rethinking my whole deal. So I was like, Eureka! I have this soil that is very heavily ammended thats just dry might as well bring it indoors, add some stuff and a month later use it for my notill indoor.
So to a half yard of soil I added:
15 cups of alfalfa meal
15 cups of oyster shell
15 cups of Down To Earth all purpose mix
About 5 cups of Rock Phosphate
About 10 cups of wiggle worm worm castings
5 gallons of perlite.
My plan was to wait a month, fill some 15 gals and plant down. Then I found this nice thread. And I realize now that I may have severely overdone it. I think I have tried to make a no till mix from super soil and from what I gather thats asking for trouble? Should I just scrap it all for outdoors and start fresh or give it a shot?
My plan so far from what I have read of this tread (up to page 40 - but who knows whats changed or improved in the 340+ pages after) is that I am going to get aloe powder, coconut water powder, TM-7, diastatic malt powder, some clover cover crop seed, and agsil. And follow the suggested ratios and usages as I have seen here.
Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks so much for all the info and time and love everyone!!
Last edited:
calliandra
Well-Known Member
Hey digitalqueso, welcome to RIU!
I'm just beginning the living soil adventure myself, but my intuitive response to your situation would be to just let that overloaded soil sit for longer so it can settle?
Let's see what others say though! Cheers!
I'm just beginning the living soil adventure myself, but my intuitive response to your situation would be to just let that overloaded soil sit for longer so it can settle?
Let's see what others say though! Cheers!
digitalqueso
Member
Thanks calliandra.
Thats kinda what I was thinking too. I have also considered cutting it in half with fresh compost and more perlite. Then letting the soil continue to compost. Couldn't hurt right? lol Sorry everyone for newbin it up.
But I will wait for someone with more knowledge and experience than myself to give me their 2 cents.
Thats kinda what I was thinking too. I have also considered cutting it in half with fresh compost and more perlite. Then letting the soil continue to compost. Couldn't hurt right? lol Sorry everyone for newbin it up.
But I will wait for someone with more knowledge and experience than myself to give me their 2 cents.
elkamino
Well-Known Member
What up fellow Alaskan!
Top soil is a broad category. Typically its a combo of organic matter (peat?) plus sand/minerals/sm rocks, but also anything else small enough to fit through the screen. SOME top soils may work as a substitute for peat in no til, but without a test its hard to know exactly what's in it. That is if you're talking topsoil you get yourself outside. Bagged soil's ingredients should be known, listed on the bag or company's website.
If peat feels pricey, check AK Mill and Feed near Ship Cr. They've got decent prices on bales of peat from Sunshine, Pro-Mix and maybe others. Promix runs ~$50 for 3.8 bale, but some of the Sunshine bales run in the $20-range. Its in their warehouse, you have to ask for it at the register. If the folks in the retail store can't help, folks in the wholesale office across the street are far more knowledgable about products and soils in general.
nvhak49
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've been getting peat from them, just wondering if top soil I get here locally from a place here in anchorage would be cheaper and possibly a better option specially come winter time when some stores don't carry much at all and grow shops charge up the ass for stuff lol.What up fellow Alaskan!
Top soil is a broad category. Typically its a combo of organic matter (peat?) plus sand/minerals/sm rocks, but also anything else small enough to fit through the screen. SOME top soils may work as a substitute for peat in no til, but without a test its hard to know exactly what's in it. That is if you're talking topsoil you get yourself outside. Bagged soil's ingredients should be known, listed on the bag or company's website.
If peat feels pricey, check AK Mill and Feed near Ship Cr. They've got decent prices on bales of peat from Sunshine, Pro-Mix and maybe others. Promix runs ~$50 for 3.8 bale, but some of the Sunshine bales run in the $20-range. Its in their warehouse, you have to ask for it at the register. If the folks in the retail store can't help, folks in the wholesale office across the street are far more knowledgable about products and soils in general.
elkamino
Well-Known Member
What's in it?
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
most of the stuff you need to fix a soil is foraged from outdoors and saved up in the kitchen. also planting legumes in a raised bed can help fix nitrogen into that spot of soil. you can then ammend with bokashi, ash, seaweed compost, bone meal, aerobic compost, that kind of stuff.
i like that you used the magic word "bokashi" already which tells me you know the heck to do lol. fermented kitchen garbage is my best friend. this is growing in FKG that i made into an aerobic compost and mixed 1:1 with a legume bed, forest flooring, vermicastings and amended with bone meal, bokashi, crushed clay, crushed quartz, BD500, and a bit of ash, and biochar.
in a raised bed outdoors i dig a trench in the center of the bed and fill with fermented kitchen garbage, then i cover it with dirt and some weighted boards (to keep animals out) and wait for 2-3 weeks, then i till the bed thoroughly and plant in it. you can also dig a hole, bury the FKG, cover, wait 2-3 weeks and plant straight into it. works awesome with cannabis and even more awesome with fruit trees. you can get your body weight in papaya from a tree less than a year old if planted into 5gallons of FKG. bananas take 10-20 gallons. cannabis take 1g-2.5g-5g depending on the size and strain
Last edited:
CallmeTex
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a really nice mix, consider cutting it with 20% Coco and make sure it stays moist. I would run it..
digitalqueso
Member
JayY2015
Well-Known Member
Well its not regulating lol I am having slight deficiency problems and have low ph what can I do other then hope it works out ?