Severe Nute Burn during Flowering, First Thread Also

Rapids90

Member
The girls have a crazy burn of some sort. Using mixture of miracle grow and another bag of the cheap stuff from walmart. Yes, its not good to use them. Under CFL's and inside pots with a water reservoir on the bottom. 1 month into flowering. Ph meter broke, another one is on the way. Using MG bloom, was using the recommended dose at every watering, believe this to be the start of the downfall. However tap water is the only thing going into it lately. When MG was used the ph was balanced out with baking soda. All plants have been flushed with tons of water over the past couple weeks, soil was allowed to get bone dry before another flush or regular watering was administered.

First time user begging for help. Thanks ahead of time. Afraid all the work has been for nothing. PS all plants are bagseed and female.

Also leaves are falling off the plants. Averaging 5 dropped leaves a day from the whole crop not per plant.
 

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ledgrowing

Well-Known Member
flushing dosent help in mg soil it dissolves the nutes in the soil switch them into new soil pretty late already though
 

lambofgod

Well-Known Member
whoa those are crispy.

I dont even know if I'd waste the time...thats me though.

You said you feed ferts every watering??!?!?! and MG at that....and full stregth? wow, ya you gotta back of the nutes homie.

I know this is somewhere out there, and hope someone can point you and I in the direction of the science behind it.

From what I've HEARD...not read. alot of times the calcium bicarbonate eats up certain things and your ph levels will rise and fall in water without using the correct up or down, I noticed this when I used API (for fish tanks) ph up and ph down. I may ph my water at 6.0 with it but 24 hours later it would be 7.2 or some crazy shit. I switched to general hydro up and down and could now ph to 6.0 and 5 days later its 6.0 still.

If what I say is true, or there is science behind it someone point it out please, I'd love to read up on it.
 

Rapids90

Member
great to hear from yall, really appreciate the feedback. Pretty much summed up what I was thinking but didn't want to admit. Going to look into how to switch soil without causing too much shock. Any tips yall care to share would be great to hear.
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
I learned quickly to never use ferts at full strength, at least until you know how the plants handle it. half strength at best. Miracle grow is already loaded with stuff, and feeding every watering is way too much
 

mr.sessemia

Well-Known Member
a lot of MG soil has time release nutrients in the soil,...so the flushing dosent help much also i dont know but i dont think i seen anyone post it but you definately wanna get some pearlite and give it a 20/80 percent mix 20 pearlite 80 soil,...the pearlite acts as a buffer and kepps your girls from being overwartered,....aslo is good with the MG soil i hear,.....theres a lot of ppl on r.i.u that have the same problem with the MG soil,......id drop the nutes done to 2/3 strenth DEFINATELY add the perlite mix to the soil .....and pray!!!!!.....gooud luck!!
 

Moses.Lyons

Active Member
baking soda is ph up vinegar is ph down but use the real shit anyway... GH is ok. I use AN's ph down super stable, super concentrated like 1-2 DROPS per gal of tap water.

get that ph into range then see what happens. but truthfully you could grow and harvest a new batch by the time they recover. transplanting them into coco now would only set you back even longer if not kompletely kill them. cut your losses now and order some seeds from Attitude if you don't have access to clones
 

Rapids90

Member
Thanks yall, rinsed the roots of the bulk of the soil and transplanted to essentially a nuteless soil, it had something like 0.025% N and even less of the other stuff. No added nutes. the soil balls are at the bottom of the pots. Basically just praying now. Would misting them like they were clones help any with the transplant? And I've seen rooting hormone for transplants, supposed to reduce transplant shock. Has anyone used a similar product with good results?

Thanks again yall
 
Rapids-
Is that the solution you are going to try? I am in the same boat here, as with my first post. You are going to transfer them to new soil? I don't want to make a new thread since my problem is EXACTLY the same. I am now thinking about putting them in new soil. I am using ocean forest fox farm soil. I am on my 2nd week of flowering and have crazy burns. I have tried flushing with tap water as well, but as led has said, nuts may still linger in the old soil regardless of flush..

IMG_0405.jpgIMG_0407.jpg
 

hitthisshit

Active Member
I use MG soil and mg fert's. I will get some up to date pics up, mine are doing outstanding. Had problems with the room structure more than anything. Now with the soil, is yours the feeding up to 6 months or is it the 2 months? I have 6 month. I started my ferts 2 wks ago at like 1/8th the dose the 1st time and up to 1/4 and now I'm at 1/2 dosage. I haven't had any sign of burn yet. From what I've learned through gardening and growing misc things around the house is it is POTENT and not at all designed for Cannabis. That being said how touchy it is on Cannabis you NEED to start out at extremely low doses and work up. Like I said I'm at 1/2 now and don't think I'm even gonna try 3/4 they are growing a good 2" a day now for the past 3-4 days before that it was about an inch a day for each day after the first 2 1/2 wks of the seedling stage. They are thriving in this stuff. I am new to indoor growing of cannabis but not overall new to indoor growing period. Mine are loving the MG life. Now, with all this being said,l it leads me to believe it's neither the mg soil or the mg ferts. You problems looks to be much more horrifying. They are just about garbage I would through them in the dumpster out back with a sign saying free and go back in and cut my wrists while I lay on my bed jamming out to hannah montana. lmao Actually since you've read this far,.... YOU NEED to check your god damn PH soil, water BOTH. It looks like you have a Micro Deficiency somewhere's along the line. PH is ever important when going into flower. Oh, and don't transplant you'll shock the shit out of em and then you'll have a whole new set of problems. Make sure they still get a LITTLE bit of of ferts with N because even in flowering they need some to keep their fan leafs going otherewise they will brown and drop "kinda like your pics." Check your ph FIRST and then let us know. I got a guy on here who knows a little bit, I will send him by. Make sure to update us. Hope something in this book has helped you out.
 
Hmm..since that I am only my second week in, I will keep flushing with nothing in it. My pH water is "normal". I thought I had put too much N in it, so I flushed it. It was good for about 3-4 days, now it's back to crispy chicken. :-/ I'm really lost.
 

hitthisshit

Active Member
Let it sit for 48 hrs see if anything is inproving. Also, go through the plants and cut the bad stuff off. NOT the whole leaf just up past the burnt stuff just a bit. If the problem persists try adding a lil bit of nitrogen back in. 1/4 strength of whatever you're using. The pics up this page look like N deficiency. Reason for cutting the bad parts of the leafs off is A.) to stop the plant from sending energy to repairing the bad parts and to re-route that energy back to bud production. Right now the budding has been put on hold or to very minimal production as it's trying to heal. B.) By cutting you will in a sense start over with a healthy plant and if the problem comes back we will be able to correct it quickly and efficiently but be sure not to cut the whole fan leaf off because without them your plant will go nowhere. It's ok to cut up to 1/2 the leaf off just so it has some to keep the photo going.
 

hitthisshit

Active Member
And stop the flushing, you're only releasing more nutes into the soil as its time released or rather released each watering.
 
I cut off the dead leaves. Mixed my N with the water. pH and ppm is what it should be at. praying for a miracle.. ill keep yall updated.
 
it seems to be doing better! I am using a new mix of N that got recommended to me at the store. I only put half strength in and raised the lights. so far so good! im using dyna gro and following the week 3 soil chart, but half strength. when will it be a good time to do regular strength? after a few more half strength watering? it prob was a mixture of heat stress and N def. thanks, hits!
 

Rapids90

Member
Girls all have made the transition to the new soil minus the crispy one in the back. growth is non-existent however leaves are returning to pre burn status, yellowing has slowed and may be receding if that is at all possible. question now is, can nutes be used (at a reduced rate) to improve bud production? Not expecting much off the girls, more of a pride/ making the best out of a crappy situation scenario. My fear is that since leaves are still yellow there are still nutrients remaining that are being used up, however no nutes have been administered for the better part of a month now. Any worthwhile replies will get repped ( yes im bribing, thats how much I need some guidance)

ps. trichrome production has continued, leaves are looking crystally but buds have not gotten more dense. out of fear of nute burn again non will be administered until your comments have been received.
 

Rapids90

Member
To littlepurple:
Hey dude, sorry for the delayed response. washed all the soil off really gently, held the plant do the former rootball was suspended near the bottom of the pot and filled in slowly with non nute soil. after a couple waterings without nutes the plants have taken! yellowing has slowed down and only had 3 branches fall off in a week as opposed to previously having 3-5 branches fall off per DAY. If you have any more questions hit me up.

Ps. Icut off all the dead leaves, pretty much cut out anything brown in order for more light to get to the actual bud sites. did not touch anything green, many of the leaves were half golden brown and half "healthy" looking so only cut near the green part being careful to never cut too far.
 
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