Sharing my final design for my 10x12 room

Also - I do not want to exhaust outside of the house. Makes me uncomfortable though I have a stealthy solution if absolutely necessary.

I have central air and keep the house set to 74-75, do you think exhausting the tents into the room would be ok, maybe with supplemental cooling?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I have central air and keep the house set to 74-75, do you think exhausting the tents into the room would be ok, maybe with supplemental cooling?
Recirculation as you would anticipate will cause the temperature to rise, and could also cause humidity issues. Of course these issues can be solved with AC and dehumidification but at what cost? If stealth is key then I would run the sealed room and throw electricity at the problem of heat and humidity, of course this may require pulling more power into the room. You may also find that supplemental CO2 is required if you don't vent.

Running the meanwell drivers on 240 volts, in most cases actually is a tiny bit less efficient than 120 volts. With HID ballasts it's typically the other way around. This is indicated on the label of the driver. We aren't talking about a big difference though, it's very, very minimal. Running them at 240 volts just means you can get twice as much light from a given gauge of wire.
 
Recirculation as you would anticipate will cause the temperature to rise, and could also cause humidity issues. Of course these issues can be solved with AC and dehumidification but at what cost? If stealth is key then I would run the sealed room and throw electricity at the problem of heat and humidity, of course this may require pulling more power into the room. You may also find that supplemental CO2 is required if you don't vent.

Running the meanwell drivers on 240 volts, in most cases actually is a tiny bit less efficient than 120 volts. With HID ballasts it's typically the other way around. This is indicated on the label of the driver. We aren't talking about a big difference though, it's very, very minimal. Running them at 240 volts just means you can get twice as much light from a given gauge of wire.
I hear you. I think I may have to vent out the window I saw a handy DIY to vent stealthily. It would actually work well because the window would be in the middle of the 5x5 and 4x8 so ducting is easy.

What should I use to plug all this in if I just use the 120v config with 120v outlets? 4x8 would draw from one outlet and the 5x5 and 4x4 would draw from another. 4 LED lights totalling 2100 watts, fans, and potential humidity control/temp control
 

Kdotwash

Member
Did not read quite all of the thread, just felt like tossing in my 2 sense when I read that you want to tente inside of a room that you were going to soley dedicate for garden purposes. With that in mind might I suggest utilising the poly panda paper, stripping everything out of your Room... panda papering the entire Room giving you Ample space in your closet to establish a clone/mama spot- removal of all doors, all of them for the entire facility room. You can do a double zipper overlay to split the rooms and to go from "outside" to inside of the facility once you have the panda paper up to ensure no light leaks. in regards to attaching things to the structural supports of the actual house, I love doing that, it gives you the structural support that you would never even need in a grow, which means you need it... because anything can happen… fall into the plants your head smash the light than your light falls on your plants... But if your lights are higher and hook mounted into studs no one's going anywhere. I used to just take 2 by fours, you just locate the studs, and then after the Room is panda papered you can safely- with a gasket essentially in between, bolt up the new rafter beam(2x4 or whatever you use) to existing being in the amount all your lights in whatever you want From the safety of the structural integrity that was designed with the house initially. Little screw holes for 2x4s in the ceiling beams is easily covered with spackle =] this has been my absolute go to when I have permission for whatever location is popping off
 

Madmike79

Active Member
I got some help off this forum so wanted to post the final design just in case some people who had similar setups needed ideas. The visual was done in a free editor so don't mind the random furniture.
After a long, long couple days of drawing up plans, trashing them and revising them, I've settled on a solution I feel good about. I'll run through it briefly.

I plan on having 3 tents - a 4x8 flower tent, a 5x5 flower tent and a 4x4 veg tent.I will run the flower tents staggered at 4-5 weeks.
Optional 2x5 closet for mothers down the road. Attached bathroom for drying when needed.

Lighting:

4x8 flower tent - 2x HLG 600 R Spec
5x5 flower tent - 1x HLG 600 R Spec
4x4 veg tent - 1x HLG 300 B Spec

Process:
Pop seeds.
When ready - 16oz solo cup for 1.5 weeks and top them.
Then into 1 gallons for ~2 weeks and LST. Sex them during this then decide final pot size (3 or 5 gallon) based on # of females.
Transfer to 4x8 flower tent in 3 or 5 gallons and veg under SCROG for 1.5-2 weeks then flip to flower.
Right before the flip - take clones for 5x5 flower tent and root in 16oz solo cups and start the process over (top, LST, etc.)
Harvest original seeds, transfer 5x5 veg to 5x5 flower, start veg for 4x8.

Note - the entrance is at the bottom of the 4x8 so I plan on removing the door (it opens in) so I can get in and out of the room with ease.
I can have a work table placed directly outside the room or there's an attached bathroom with the entrance in the middle of the bottom wall to work in.

Figured I'd post my resolution to help any others who are thinking about a similar setup.

View attachment 4734066
Sounds great spot on only one thing you can't tell sex of plant till you start flowering I believe.
 
Little screw holes for 2x4s in the ceiling beams is easily covered with spackle =] this has been my absolute go to when I have permission for whatever location is popping off
Thanks for the insight brother I will definitely take this into consideration.

As far as my electrical issue - it's solved. Going to add 3 dedicated 20 amp circuits.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
Do you already have the HLG 600’s?

If not, I would consider getting strip lights like the Timber Cypress. It has the same amount of diodes as the HLG 600 but spread over a much larger area giving more uniformity and allowing you to hang much closer to the canopy, as close to 6-12” which gives you much more usable canopy space. When you are height limited in a tent, having a light that requires 28-36” distance from canopy isn’t the best idea IMO.
 
Do you already have the HLG 600’s?

If not, I would consider getting strip lights like the Timber Cypress. It has the same amount of diodes as the HLG 600 but spread over a much larger area giving more uniformity and allowing you to hang much closer to the canopy, as close to 6-12” which gives you much more usable canopy space. When you are height limited in a tent, having a light that requires 28-36” distance from canopy isn’t the best idea IMO.
I planned on extending the tent height to 8 mayve 9 feet tall so I think I should be good. The HLGs arrive Wednesday. I was talking to a buddy in the med game and he recommended the Luxx LEDs as well. If a return on the HLGs isn't too much I'd consider a switch or consider those for next year when I take on a couple more rooms.
 

Greenade

Member
@sunsetsherby so as a reference point this is a 4'x8' 3x- 315cmh phantom remote ballast. I think @Renfro is suggesting to you that you could turn that room into a L shape flower room with 4 HLG 600r and then a 4'x4' veg tent(5'x5' if it fits in the closet). I am curious about the HLG lights so I am happy to see a ee grow.
How do you like those phantom CMH fixtures? Thinking of picking a few up off a guy locally
 
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