Should I double up for mite eradication/control?

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by DirtDigginChick, Oct 7, 2017.


    DirtDigginChick Member

    I have been battling mites in my veg room for 3-4 grows now. I grow in organic soil and I know it's an outside source. We're not anal about being clean coming in the room and one of our 5 dogs may wander in there with us. Only certain, touchy strains are affected(ugh, I always screw up affected vs effected, lol)

    After this veg I'm going to bleach/pyrethrin/bomb the room and seal some bad edges up. I understand the steps to prevent.

    I've got some girls in veg that are already stressed. I'm not going to cull them, not a choice, there are way too many in there. I almost killed half of them spraying pyrethrin with a baddddddd carrier. They are bouncing back without any defects but I'm still getting mites. (I've also spray with some neem mixes(water and fulvic acid) that worked for a couple days)

    My question to all you with sage advice, I want to use Captain Jacks but I've also found a killing soap, can I use both at the same time on plants in veg. Should I use something stronger? I'm not opposed to something conventional vs organic. Immma gonna kill me some bugs.... Bug Killer2.jpeg Bug Killer1.jpeg
    HookahsGarden likes this.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    @Dr. Who I was going to see what you had to say. You seem to know. :peace:
    Dr. Who

    Dr. Who Well-Known Member

    In veg and want them dead? 100% dead?

    FORBID 4F 1 light misting of the tops of the leaves....BOOM done!

    Otherwise, Capt. Jacks....Works good and organic.....You have to spray heavy-real heavy, and do a root drench to be really effective.

    Personal choice - The Forbid. Way easy and they don't build any tolerance to it.

    Read his whole listing.....Hmm, I got that scope, I like it too..... I've used as little as 8 drops in 1 gallon and it worked perfectly.....Follow the instructions your first time out.

    I don't know what he read but, the residual effect is 21 days at the most. That's from tox reports...

    Always stay away from AVID = nasty stuff....

    DirtDigginChick Member

    Will the Forbid stress the plants at all? They've gone through so much already.

    I'm going to use the Captain Jacks, can I use the soap with it? Or was that a useless buy?

    Thank you for your help!!!
    Dr. Who

    Dr. Who Well-Known Member

    #1: NO, not at all! Kills everything, including eggs. Even if some make it - dead the first feeding.

    #2: I suppose you could. That might get "stressy" but, not sure, never done it. The soap is a contact killer, so spraying the whole plant and with some gusto is more less required.
    DirtDigginChick likes this.

    Grandpapy Well-Known Member

    Treating the area around the outside of your house increases your chances of success.
    DirtDigginChick and BarnBuster like this.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    Thanks for all the help! I may just treat the ones that are really bad with both and see how much it stresses them.
    Also, great advice from @Grandpapy! I'll make sure to treat the outside of the building as well.
    You guys rock! :smile: :peace:
    Grandpapy likes this.

    rickyrozayyy Well-Known Member

    Safer is okay I guess. I've had some mite issues in the past as well. I spray daily with safer during veg... or every other day with Azamax. Keep your room cool is key as well.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    It's in a pole barn, so it stays pretty cool. Well I think it's cool, 65-70F?
    rickyrozayyy likes this.

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    Re-application is key with pyrethrum. Use the Pyrethrum TR fogger, wait 3 days and use another fogger. I used a third fogger a week or so after my second application. Pyrethrum TR has the highest percentage of affective pyrethrum in comparison to other brands like Doktor Doom etc.
    Hit em hard and frequent right from jump so there isnt an immunity to be made and you can kill the larvae and eggs that the first ones drop when you hit them the first time.
    Considering where your location of the grow is, you may want to try to battle the outside a bit with a spray to help persuade them away from that area like mentioned already.
    Norby Grown and DirtDigginChick like this.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    Went out to spray, finally. They're worse than I thought. Webbing on the tops of 4 plants, webbing on the outsides of the leaves on a few others. I sprayed the Captain Jacks tonight and hand-removed everything I saw. I waited to post until after the swearing subsided...truckers daughter, I was lighting up the room with a good round of cussing. Too bad that won't kill 'em...

    Can I use this fogger with the plants in the room? The pyrethrum I used before was for animals, the carrier almost killed all of my girls, I'm babying and vegging way longer to let them recover. I've gotta get this under control before I move them to 12/12. Some are going to sit another month until they're not so stressed. Thanks for the help!

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    Yes, do this with the plants in the room. Though you can use this in early flower, yours being in veg is a good thing.
    I've personally used THIS and recommend it. Its a bit expensive when you get a few cans, but worth its weight in gold when ridding you of your bug issues before you go into flower.
    I'd would also get a spray you can use on the foliage surrounding the outside of the grow as well to hopefully deter them from wanting to hang out there. I don't personally have any recommendations for that but I'm sure someone on here could chime in with a good suggestion for you. Like I said, its important to hit em full on nuclear assault right from the jump or they can build immunities to the pyrethrums (or most other applications for that matter). Best of luck to you.
    DirtDigginChick likes this.

    Lightgreen2k Well-Known Member


    Really you shouldn't be using any sprays at all. You can order predator mites easily and irradicate the problem for good.

    With sprays small populations of russet and broadmites will survive. Sprays are better for spider mites.

    These types of predators come in large populations.

    You will want cucumeries or Swirskiis or Californicus.

    Californicus works well with high temps low humidity. 85 and up.

    Cucumeries work well in the mid range of 67-86

    Swirkskiis go for spider mites and other mites aswell.

    Spraying is the old way of thought to kill things, but these are your crops, try new ways.

    The knowledge is free it's for you to accept it.
    Dr. Who and DirtDigginChick like this.

    SoOLED Well-Known Member

    everyting everyone has said will help.

    but whats the point if you not going to take measures to clean/prevent them from coming back.

    the best thing IMHO; is to change your entry habits, and take steps to prevent problems.

    I dunno why you would want to continue to fight this battle over and over.
    HydroRed, DrewKitten and TCH like this.

    DrewKitten Well-Known Member

    I alternated spinosad with the soap and it was pretty effective. I also tried to wipe down the leaves by hand every few days. Took a couple months but I got rid of them. I think I only did maybe 4 application of each bug killer.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    Update. I sprayed the Forbid and it seemed to be working well. I just checked under the leaves and used the handy dandy scope that came with the Forbid and saw some cocksuckers still moving around. There isn't webbing yet. @Dr. Who should I apply the Forbid again? Should I go a little more heavy handed with it this time?
    GreenLogician likes this.
    Dr. Who

    Dr. Who Well-Known Member

    Some eggs survive and hatch. Most likely they will feed and die, before the effectiveness has ended.
    If you did mist a bit too light. You should consider a second shot - after 14 days from the first.
    Hit all the leaves, again all you need is a light misting. Doesn't need to drip off from them.

    Get some pyrethrin concentrate. Mix weak, like 25% of what they say. Now spray all the seams in walls at the doors, floors or anywhere mites may come in. This makes a repellent action against them returning. Spray the media surface and the pots too. Do that right after you hit the plants again.
    DirtDigginChick likes this.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    Alright, I didn't spray at 14 days since I didn't see any guys moving. I did spray outside and all-around the room for any chance of pests coming in. I've recently discovered thrips on an indoor grow at another location with some actual herbs and veggies that are being grown indoors(MI). I'm helping with soil components with this grow and they thought they were having issues with fungus. Nope, full-on thrip infestation. All plants were ripped and thrown in the snow.

    I'm not seeing any of the little worms that I saw on the leaves of the plants with the thrips on my ladies, but now I'm concerned that I may actually be dealing with thrips, not mites...My new growth isn't infected with bugs that I can see, but it does have the curvy leaves too...Also, growing in a pole barn when temps go from 90F to 10F could be the culprit. Aaaannnd I have a few girls that are in smaller pots that need to be up-potted and they have been experiencing issues with water consistency since the heater was turned on.

    At this point I'm looking for constructive answers to these problems, I don't need someone telling me I'm a terrible grower. I work a ton of hours and the only person I have helping out is my 60-something yr old mother. I do this for her to make sure she doesn't have to buy off some dude that's shady af. I try my best to keep these girls healthy but this batch has been the worst for pests and problems. Thanks for all your guys' help so far!! IMG_1088.jpg IMG_1087.jpg IMG_1086.jpg IMG_1085.jpg

    SchmoeJoe Well-Known Member

    The carrier used for pyrethrum bombs is a long lasting systemic. I wouldn't go anywhere near it for vegging plants. For regular mites I've never had to use anything more drastic than Azamax or spinosad. The trick is to be sure that you hit every surface of the plant and to it at least three times once every three days. Doing three treatments on this schedule has always been 100% effective for me.

    Dr. Zymes can even be used on any stage of flowering plant and it's effective for russet/broad mites but it's expensive so I'd leave it for those mites and/or flowering plants that you don't want to go anywhere near with other things.

    DirtDigginChick Member

    I used Forbid and don't see any mites moving. What I'm worried about now is Thrips. See pics posted and lemme know what you think?

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