Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Kinda confused on the whole feeding thing and if I have to water do I have to pH after adding nutes?
So my seedling just popped, when do I feed nutes?
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Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Budzbuddha
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Mist only for now. And NOT EVERYDAY. Seedling needs nothing right now , it is getting accustomed to its new home. You have some stretch going on and recommend a small cfl to get some growth going. A small 100w CFL 5000k or 6400k spiral bulb in a desklamp can work. Just a few inches away should do it.
I would bury most of the stretched stem when you transplant , it will add more root growth.
I would bury most of the stretched stem when you transplant , it will add more root growth.
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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How is this?
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Budzbuddha
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Wrong color - orange / reddish color ( 2700k ) used mostly for flowering .
Use all white ( like the one in the upper left ) ( Daytime Bulb - Blue White color 5000k / 6400k ) seedling should be very close to bulb , around 2" inches.
Home depot has 4 pack ECOSMART 100w CFL ( $10 ) . These work well and last a long time.
Like this .....
These are perfect for starting seedlings ( without stress or light burn or excessive heat ).
I START ALL OF MY PLANTS THIS WAY ( Soil or Hempy Buckets ) and never had a problem.
Once plant " starts good growth " i ADD another lamp . This really gets the plant going , up to the point of moving plant into a HID , LED or COB tent .... 2 or 3 nodes growth.
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
Well-Known Member
OK I'm going to get some of those right now, will update when I get back.
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Budzbuddha
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Better , this should work ok.
You can also suspend ( 1 ) reflector over cup since it is double bulbed and would also work.
You can also suspend ( 1 ) reflector over cup since it is double bulbed and would also work.
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
Patience
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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I'm just so anxious and I don't want to do anything wrong..
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
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Explain please?
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
ok, sooo
many cannabis gardeners learn well using formulated liquid fertilizers and can get great results and heavy yields. however, many growers are in belief that the plant requires a bunch of fertilizer and then something goes wrong in what now looks like a chemistry project. too much nitrogen, oh no what do i do, is it too much nitrogen, is it potassium yadayadayadayada. well then the grower has wasted time etc.
organic soil growers that don't use liquid fertilizers, since there are some great organic liquids out there, typically see lower yields. but dont burn plants as frequently. i mean i just pulled a qp off an OG this spring, done organically in only soil and fed a compost tea only once. so, after some practice you'll get to know your plants, take clones so you know what to expect. but, again, you're far less likely to run into a mishap of over feeding with soil based nutrition versus liquid nutrients.
in my sig i'll show how to mix a common base soil. i also show how to make basic extracts, use probiotic bacteria, compost with and without manure, raise worms, make hummates, and identify resource recovery. heads up, its not the most fantastically written and is focusing on sustainable gardening. but i'm rewriting one this summer to be more orderly
"kimchi farming techniques" are the cheepest and are the oldest farming methods you'll find still in use. but if you picked up a bag of organic potting soil you can plant directly in that most likely. then ammend the remaining soil with equal parts to the base soil ::: compost, vermicastings, sandy loam (optional for faster drainage), and coco or peat. that means if you planted your seedling in a liter of soil and have around 5 gallons of the soil left, mix it with 5 gals of each of the previous items. maybe add a small handful of lime.
or maybe you buy a starter soil and transplant it into a hotter premixed soil that you also bought.
any of those ways wont need any added fertilizer. spend the time to notice what a healthy plant looks like before you try and make the plant on steroids that you were about to try and tackle. haha
Dreadloc Ganga Farmer
Well-Known Member
Great info, do you have a youtube by any chance
iHearAll
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iHearAll
Well-Known Member
Hey, wanted to touch back and give you an example of time, nutrient, and size relations.
All i have mixed in these little blocks is vermicastings and peat moss in an equal ratio. So this is 1-0-0 in terms of NPK.
The size of the block will last two weeks max for most cannabis, tomato, basil, and cabbage size plants. And will last a month for lettuce, thyme, cillantro, and dill sized plants. Also suitable for trees but will likely need to be transplanted sooner than two weeks after sprouting.
So, what i wanted you to notice os the NPK ratio of the soil for the amount of time the plant is in this size container. 1-0-0 soil means that if i do nothing but water for the amoun of time it's in there, it will recieve a very low dose of nitrogen the entire time. I may only water these once more and they will never get so wet that i am leaching nutrients out.
If i started these seeds in a soiless container like rockwool or 100% peat then i may consider feeding the plants a light 1-0-0 fertilizer as i water the plants. 1-0-0 can be obtained by diluting a liquid fertilizer proportionally weaker. If it's 10-10-10 and says a tablespoon per gallon of water is the recommended dosage for adult plants then you can get away with diluting.it to 1/10 of a tablespoon. The reault will be 1-1-1.Growers do this with mL measuring instruments.
A rule of thumb is a teaspoon is roughly 5mL.
When these fill the container (the individual block in this case) then its safe to move them to a hotter soil. In my instance i will move them to raised bed and some containers with a 3-3-3 abouts fertilization strength or even less.
Later i top dress a high nitrogen/probiotic feed and once a week i spray the area with probioics. This increases sanitation and soil biodiversity to unlock nutrients in the organic matter.
So now ill wait another month if i transplanted from the soil block into a liter size pot. It should have just filled the container by this point and will constantly have been feeding in a 1-1-1 to 2-2-2 soil depending on the plant.
Lastly, the plant is two months old and fairly large. Try transplanting to a 3-7 gallon container with a considerably hot soil to finish the plant. This can be designed plant specific and will take experience as plants become very different at this stage.
All i have mixed in these little blocks is vermicastings and peat moss in an equal ratio. So this is 1-0-0 in terms of NPK.
The size of the block will last two weeks max for most cannabis, tomato, basil, and cabbage size plants. And will last a month for lettuce, thyme, cillantro, and dill sized plants. Also suitable for trees but will likely need to be transplanted sooner than two weeks after sprouting.
So, what i wanted you to notice os the NPK ratio of the soil for the amount of time the plant is in this size container. 1-0-0 soil means that if i do nothing but water for the amoun of time it's in there, it will recieve a very low dose of nitrogen the entire time. I may only water these once more and they will never get so wet that i am leaching nutrients out.
If i started these seeds in a soiless container like rockwool or 100% peat then i may consider feeding the plants a light 1-0-0 fertilizer as i water the plants. 1-0-0 can be obtained by diluting a liquid fertilizer proportionally weaker. If it's 10-10-10 and says a tablespoon per gallon of water is the recommended dosage for adult plants then you can get away with diluting.it to 1/10 of a tablespoon. The reault will be 1-1-1.Growers do this with mL measuring instruments.
A rule of thumb is a teaspoon is roughly 5mL.
When these fill the container (the individual block in this case) then its safe to move them to a hotter soil. In my instance i will move them to raised bed and some containers with a 3-3-3 abouts fertilization strength or even less.
Later i top dress a high nitrogen/probiotic feed and once a week i spray the area with probioics. This increases sanitation and soil biodiversity to unlock nutrients in the organic matter.
So now ill wait another month if i transplanted from the soil block into a liter size pot. It should have just filled the container by this point and will constantly have been feeding in a 1-1-1 to 2-2-2 soil depending on the plant.
Lastly, the plant is two months old and fairly large. Try transplanting to a 3-7 gallon container with a considerably hot soil to finish the plant. This can be designed plant specific and will take experience as plants become very different at this stage.