Soil sample help

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
I made a container mix last year for outdoor, it did pretty well, but going forward I wanted to improve on last year. So I went and sent a sample out to Logan Labs, and got my results back.
I know I need to lower my ph significantly, most commonly done with lime, but that will raise my calcium which it would seem to me is also a bit high, I thought maybe increasing compost/worm castings to lower ph without raising calcium. I also thought the magnesium levels looked low, which I would look to epsom salt to fix, but that would raise my sulfur, which is high. I’m obviously a beginner, with the amending, so any help analyzing is greatly appreciated.
 

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Kushash

Well-Known Member
I made a container mix last year for outdoor, it did pretty well, but going forward I wanted to improve on last year. So I went and sent a sample out to Logan Labs, and got my results back.
I know I need to lower my ph significantly, most commonly done with lime, but that will raise my calcium which it would seem to me is also a bit high, I thought maybe increasing compost/worm castings to lower ph without raising calcium. I also thought the magnesium levels looked low, which I would look to epsom salt to fix, but that would raise my sulfur, which is high. I’m obviously a beginner, with the amending, so any help analyzing is greatly appreciated.
If you can post the results, it might be helpful.
Lime is used to raise PH, not lower it.
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
If you can post the results, it might be helpful.
Lime is used to raise PH, not lower it.
It says they are attached on my screen and also my bad, I meant to say I need to lower ph and raise magnesium, lime would raise the mag but also raise my ph
 
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FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Ph at 7,4 is good for soil
Ok, this threw me, because my observations last year tell me everything was on the up & up, praying leaves, lush foliage…the whole nine. But the test said 7.4 and I’m seeing the ideal as 6.0-6.3, which stands to reason as that is the range most nutrients are available in hydro I think. But back to my issue of no symptoms, I’m not naive enough to think that just bc the plants were happy means there is no improvement to be made…I did end up getting a consultation from the soil doctor, agronomist guy that is affiliated with Logan labs and also recommended by Tad Hussey at KIS Organics, so I will post back with his recommendations
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
This was the gist of it, I grow in coco indoor, and I really just started playing with organics last year and I love it, but there are a lot of tools that I have no knowledge of, this guy definitely exposed me to some amendments I didn’t know about before. I heard about him through listening to his episode of the Cannabis Cultivation & Science podcast:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/cannabis-cultivation-and-science-podcast/id1258365194?i=1000596601666
But here was his analysis and general recommendations…there was quite a bit more detail, but these are the broad strokes.88D723C5-886B-452E-8AF1-4F3E5F138510.jpeg4774ACAA-FF95-429B-9CFB-0B4BD4E050BE.jpeg
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Yes, I do plan on adding one more cubic foot per yard, but as I suspected by my plants last year, it wasn’t really giving me any trouble
 

Reap911

Well-Known Member

Check this out. In the video he shows you the desired amounts of each nutrient to work towards. You can use this to compare.

Bacteria like a balanced Ph of 7 so if you are looking at creating a bacterially dominated soil, which is ideal for cannabis, I do not think you need to adjust your Ph. I would just look at maybe doing some companion plants and cover cropping. The addition of extra root provides addition exudates that can be used by the soil food web to manage the soil. More root energy = more biology as it is the starting point for your soil ecosystem.

I would just aim to hit the relevant nutritional targets and lets the plant and soil control the rest.
 
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